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NARRATIVE 


or  AN 

EXPEDITION  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA, 


IN  THE  YEARS  1820,  1821,  1822,  AND  1823. 


COMMANDES  BY  LIEUTENANT,  NOW 

ADMIRAL  FiRliiiSfkND  WRANGELL, 

OF  THG  RVbSIAN  jlfrPEÄlAL  NAVY, 


NEW.^YOHK,: 


HARPER  AND  В R О TH  E R S,  C L I F F- S T. 


1843, 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1841,  by 
HÄ.RPER  & BuOTb^ÄS, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


Я<е  SMbt 


Qi , 

N/V 

publishers’  advertisement. 


The  recent  voyages  to  discover  a Northwest 
Passage,  persevered  in  through  a series  of  years, 
and  crowned  with  partial  success,  have,  from  the 
boldness  of  the  enterprise,  as  well  as  the  skill  and 
courage  displayed  by  the  successive  navigators, 
excited  a far  more  lively  interest  than  any  others 
in  modern  times.  But  while  the  British  have  been 
thus  actively  engaged  in  exploring  the  Polar  Sea 
north  of  the  American  Continent,  the  Russians 
have  not  been  idle  in  attempting  to  extend  their 
geographical  knowledge  in  the  same  latitudes 
north  of  Siberia.  Of  the  former  we  have  been 
long  since  fully  informed  ; of  the  latter,  until  now, 
entirely  ignorant.  This  volume,  therefore,  the 
publishers  feel  persuaded  will  be  in  the  highest 
degree  interesting  to  the  American  reader,  from 
the  great  amount  of  curious  information  it  con- 
tains, and  especially  from  the  manner  in  which  the 
different  expeditions  were  conducted,  by  means  of 
sledges,  drawn  by  dogs,  over  the  ice  of  the  Polar 
Sea. 

The  English  copy,  from  which  this  is  taken,  was 
A 


5 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


ІІ 

edited  by  Major  Sabine,  whose  extensive  personal 
knowledge  of  the  Polar  Regions  peculiarly  qualified 
him  for  the  task. 

The  work,  as  now  presented  to  the  public,  has 
been  carefully  revised  by  the  American  editor,  and 
considerably  abridged,  by  the  exclusion  of  most  of 
the  introductory  matter,  as  well  as  of  two  chapters 
that  have  no  connexion  with  the  general  narrative, 
and  all  of  which  consist  of  little  more  than  minute 
topographical  and  other  details,  destitute  of  inter- 
est to  the  general  reader. 


NeW’Yorki  1841. 


H.  &B. 


PREFACE. 


The  work,  of  which  the  present  is  a translation, 
was  drawn  up  in  the  German  language  by  M.  En- 
gelhardt, from  the  journals  and  papers  of  M.  Wran- 
gell,  and  of  the  other  officers  of  the  expedition, 
placed  in  his  hands  for  that  purpose,  and  was  pub- 
lished at  Berlin  in  July,  1839,  under  the  editorial 
care  of  Professor  Ritter,  with  the  sanction  of  M. 
Wrangell,  who  himself  communicated  the  map 
which  accompanied  the  publication.  Notices  had 
been  previously  given  by  Professor  Parrot  in  re- 
gard to  some  of  the  physical  observations  which 
were  made  in  the  course  of  the  expedition,  but  no 
general  account  of  its  proceedings  appeared  until 
this  of  1839,  either  in  the  Russian  or  any  other 
language. 

The  German  orthography  of  the  proper  names 
has  been  generally  retained.  Great  part  of  the 
names  being  new,  and  their  pronunciation  only 
known  approximately  through  the  medium  of  a 
representation  by  German  letters,  it  did  not  appear 
that  any  adequate  advantage  would  have  been 
gained  by  an  attempt  to  substitute  letters  with  ‘ 
English  values,  involving,  as  it  must  necessarily 
have  done,  an  additional  degree  of  uncertainty. 

The  temperatures  have  been  changed  from  Reau- 
mur to  Fahrenheit’s  scale.  Distances,  weights,  ^ 
and  prices  have  been  preserved  in  the  original  ex- 
pressions, in  worsts,  poods,  and  roubles.  The 


IV 


PREFACE. 


dates  are  in  the  “ old  style,”  which  is  still  in  use  in 
Russia,  and  twelve  days  are  to  be  added,  to  give 
the  corresponding  dates  in  the  style  adopted  by 
other  European  nations ; thus  Newyear’s  day  in 
this  volume  is  our  13th  of  January,  and  so  forth. 

The  facts  and  circumstances  made  known  by  an 
expedition  which  was  engaged  during  three  years 
in  geographical  researches,  extending  over  fifty 
degrees  of  longitude  of  the  coasts  of  the  Polar  Sea, 
must  in  many  instances  bear,  by  a close  analo- 
gy, on  reasonings  connected  with  the  yet  unex- 
plored portion  of  the  Artie  Circle  ; and  they  do  so 
particularly  in  respect  to  that  part  which  has 
been,  and  still  continues  to  be,  the  theatre  of  Brit- 
ish  enterprise. 

There  is  a striking  resemblance  in  the  configu- 
ration of  the  northern  coasts  of  the  continents  of 
Asia  and  America  for  several  hundred  miles  on 
either  side  of  Behring’s  Straits : the  general  di- 
rection of  the  coast  is  the  same  on  both  continents, 
the  latitude  is  nearly  the  same,  and  each  has  its 
attendant  group  of  islands  to  the  north ; the  Asiatic 
continent,  those  usually  known  as  the  New-Siberi- 
an  Islands,  and  the  American,  those  called  by  Sir 
Edward  Parry  the  North  Georgian  Group,  and 
since  fitly  named,  from  their  discoverer,  the  Parry 
Islands.  The  resemblance  includes  the  islands 
also,  both  in  general  character  and  in  latitude. 

With  so  decided  a similarity  in  the  configuration 
and  position  of  the  land  and  sea,  it  is  reasonable 
to  expect  that  there  should  be  a corresponding  re- 
semblance in  the  state  and  circumstances  of  the 
ice  by  which  the  navigation  of  the  ocean  may  be 
affected. 


PREFACE. 


V 


In  perusing  M.  Wrangell’s  description  of  that 
portion  of  the  sea  which  is  comprised  between  the 
Asiatic  Continent  and  the  New-Siberian  Islands, 
those  who  have  had  personal  experience  of  the 
corresponding  portion  of  the  sea  on  the  American 
side,  namely,  of  the  portion  included  between  the 
'continent  and  the  Parry  Islands,  must  at  once  rec- 
ognise the  close  resemblance  which  the  ice  de- 
scribed by  M.  Wrangell  bears  to  that  which  fell 
under  their  own  observation.  In  both  cases,  in 
summer,  a narrow  strip  of  open  water  exists  be- 
tween the  shore  and  the  ice,  admitting  of  the  oc- 
casional passage  of  a vessel  from  point  to  point, 
subject  to  frequent  interruptions  from  the  closing  of 
the  ice  on  the  land  by  certain  winds,  and  from  dif- 
culties  at  projecting  capes  and  headlands.  The 
main  body  of  the  ice  by  which  the  sea  is  cov- 
ered is  at  that  season  broken  into  fields  and  floes 
of  various  extent  and  size,  with  lanes  of  open  wa- 
ter between  them ; and  in  this  state  they  remain 
till  the  first  frost  of  autumn,  when  the  whole  is  ce- 
mented into  a firm  and  connected  mass,  and  re- 
mains so  during  the  winter. 

The  thickness  of  ice  formed  in  a single  season 
M.  Wrangell  states  to  be  about  nine  and  a half 
feet ; that,  if  prevented  from  drifting  away  during 
the  summer,  a eecond  season  will  add  about  five 
feet ; and  a third  season,  doubtless,  somewhat  more. 
The  fields  of  ice  which  have  been  met  with  by 
the  British  expeditions  in  parts  of  the  sea  which 
are  known  to  be  cleared  every  year  (in  Baffin’s 
Bay  and  Hudson’s  Straits,  for  example,  and  to  the 
north  and  west  of  Spitzbergen),  have  usually  been 
from  nine  to  ten  feet  thick  ; but  I well  remember 
A 2 


vi 


PREFACE. 


the  surprise  excited  in  the  expedition  which  pene- 
trated to  Melville  Island,  at  the  extraordinary  and 
unprecedented  thickness  of  the  field-ice  which  they 
encountered  after  passing  Barrow  Strait,  and  en- 
tering, for  the  first  time,  the  portion  of  the  sea 
comprised  between  the  continent  and  the  islands 
north  of  it ; evidencing  that  on  that  portion  of  the 
sea  the  icy  covering  remains  for  successive  years. 
The  general  thickness  was  more  than  double  that 
of  the  formation  of  a single  year. 

All  the  attempts  to  effect  a northwest  passage 
since  Barrow  Strait  was  first  passed  in  1819,  have 
consisted  in  endeavouring  to  force  a vessel,  by  one 
route  or  another,  through  this  land-locked  and  ice- 
encumbered  portion  of  the  Polar  Ocean.  No  ex- 
amination has  made  known  what  may  be  the  state 
of  the  sea  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  Islands  ; wheth- 
er similar  impediments  there  present  themselves  to 
navigation,  or  whether  a sea  may  not  there  exist, 
offering  no  difficulties  whatsoever  of  the  kind,  as 
M.  Wrangell  has  shown  to  be  the  case  to  the 
north  of  the  Siberian  Islands,  and  as  by  strict  anal- 
ogy  we  should  be  justified  in  expecting,  unless,  in- 
deed, there  should  be  other  land  to  the  north  of  the 
Parry  group,  making  that  portion  of  the  ocean  also 
a land-locked  sea. 

The  expeditions  of  MM.  Wrangell  and  Anjou 
were  undertaken  on  the  presumption  of  the  con- 
tinuance to  the  north  (in  the  winter  and  spring  at 
least)  of  the  natural  bridge  of  ice  by  which  the  isl- 
ands are  accessible  from  the  continent ; but  every 
attempt  which  they  made  to  proceed  to  the  north, 
repeated  as  these  were  during  three  years,  and 
from  many  different  points  of  a line  extending  for 


PREFACE. 


VU 


several  hundred  miles  in  an  east  and  west  direc- 
tion, terminated  alike  in  conducting  them  to  an 
open  and  navigable  sea. 

Setting  aside,  then,  the  possibility  of  the  exist- 
ence of  an  unknown  land,  the  probability  of  an 
open  sea  existing  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  Isl- 
ands, and  communicating  with  Behring’s  Straits, 
appears  to  rest  on  strict  analogical  reasoning. 
The  distance  of  either  group  to  Behring’s  Straits 
is  nearly  the  same. 

It  can  scarcely  be  doubted,  therefore,  that  by 
calling  again  into  action  the  energy  and  the  other 
admirable  qualities  which  have  been  fostered  and 
displayed  in  the  Arctic  voyages,  and  by  perseve- 
ring through  a succession  of  seasons,  a vessel  might 
be  forced  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  through 
that  confined  and  encumbered  portion  of  the  sea 
in  which  all  the  recent  attempts  have  been  made. 


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ізлІКІ' 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  St.  Petersburgh.— Arrival  at  Irkuzk.— Passage 
down  the  Lena. — Account  of  Scenery,  Navigation,  &c. — Ar- 
rival at  Jakuzk.— Annual  Fair  at  Jakuzk.  — Character  and  Cus- 
toms of  the  Inhabitants. — Departure  for  Nishne  Kolymsk 

Page  19 

CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  for  Nishne  Kolymsk. — Pack-horses.— First  Bivouac. 
—The  Jakuti.— Jakutian  Settlement.— Mioro.—Jurti,  Cloth- 
ing, Customs,  Songs,  Food,  Villages,  National  Characteris- 
tics.— The  River  Aldan. — The  River  Tukulan.— Forest  Bi- 
vouac.— Werchow  Mountains. — Wandering  Tungusi. — Bara- 
low  and  Tabolog  Stations. — Saschsiwersk. — Inhabitants  of  the 
District. — The  River  Alaseja. — The  Sardach  Station.— Sred- 
ne  Kolymsk. — Winter  Travelling  Costume.  — The  Omolon 
River.— Dogs  and  Sledges.— Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk  32 

CHAPTER  HI. 

ТорортрЬу  of  the  District  of  the  Lower  Kolyma.— Character 
of  its  Climate. — Winter.— Diseases. — Vegetable  Growth. — 
Abundance  of  Animals. — Former  Inhabitants. — Present  In- 
habitants.—Houses. — Dress. — Sufferings  of  the  People  from 
want  in  the  Spring. — Overflowing  of  the  Rivers. — Fisheries. 
— Taking  of  Birds. — Hunting  the  Reindeer.— Summer  Em- 
ployment of  the  Women. — Catching  Herrings. — Trapping  the 
Fur  Animals. — Intrepidity  of  a Hunter. — Employment  of 
Dogs.  — Interior  of  the  Houses.  — Household  Economy. — 
Amusements  55 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Nishne  Kolymsk. — Domestic  Arrangements. — Preparations  for 
Prosecuting  the  Objects  of  the  Expedition. — Well-founded 
Doubts  respecting  the  Discoveries  of  Sergeant  Andrejew.— Ar- 


X 


CONTENTS. 


rival  of  the  English  Traveller,  Captain  Cochrane. — The  New 
Year. — Evening  Party. — Arrival  of  the  Pilot  Kosmin.— Prep- 
arations for  a Journey  with  Dogs  and  Sledges. — Necessary 
Deviation  from  the  Original  Plan. — Tidings  of  the  Arrival  of 
the  Tschuktschi  on  the  Lesser  Aniuj. — Departure  of  M.  Mati- 
uschkin  for  Ostrownoje  . : . . . Page  87 

CHAPTER  V. 

First  Ice-journey  in  Sledges  over  the  Sea. — Departure  from 
Nishne  Kolymsk. — Sucharnoje  Island. — Baranow  Rocks. — 
Flat,  low  Coast. — Great  Baranow  River.— Cold. — First  Tra- 
ces of  the  Tschuktschi. — Meteor. — Cape  Schelagskoj. — Kos- 
min Rock. — Wollok. — Cape  Matiuschkin. — Arautan  Island. — 
Loss  of  Provisions. — Return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk  . . 97 

CHAPTER  VI. 

M.  Matiuschkin’s  Account  of  the  Fair  at  Ostrownoje. — Remarks 
on  the  Tschuktschi  whom  he  met  there,  and  on  the  Scha- 
mans 114 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Second  Ice-journey. — Preparations. — Plan. — Departure, — Bear- 
Hunt. — First  Encampment  on  the  Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea.— Four 
Pillar  Island.— Ice  broken  up  and  covered  with  Sea-Water, — 
Hummocks.— Deposite  of  Provisions. — State  of  the  Ice. — 
Easter. — White  Bears. — The  Bear  Islands. — Return  to  Nish- 
ne Kolymsk 127 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Nishne  Kolymsk. — Spring. — Scarcity.— Fisheries  for  the  supply 
of  the  Expedition. — Building  a Shallop. — Plans  for  the  Sum- 
mer.—Warm  Weather. — Moschetoes. — Embark  in  the  new 
Boat. — Accident  to  M.  Matiuschkin. — Reindeer  Hunting  in 
the  Tundra. — Arrival  at  Tschukotschje.— Departure  of  M. 
Kosmin  to  survey  the  Coast  as  far  as  the  Indigirka. — Return 
up  the  Kolyma. — Tent  burned. — Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk. 
— Visit  to  the  Jakuti  of  Sredne  Kolymsk.— Their  Summer 
Life  and  Habitations. — Traditions. — Älbuty. — Early  Snow. — 
Return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk. — Arrival  of  MM.  Matiuschkin, 
Kyber,  and  Kosmin.  156 


CONTENTS. 


за 


CHAPTER  IX. 

м.  matiuschkin’s  account  of  a journey  along  the 

LESSER  AND  THE  GREATER  ANIUJ  RIVERS. 

THE  LESSER  ANIUJ. 

Departure  from  Nishne  Kolymsk. — Mammoth  Bones. — Arrival 
at  Plotbischtsche. — Aboriginal  Population  of  this  District.— 
Present  Inhabitants. — Causes  of  the  Scantiness  of  the  Popula- 
tion.—Jukahiri. — Migration  of  the  Reindeer  in  Spring  and 
Summer. — Departure  from  Plotbischtsche.— Argunowo. — Po- 
ginden. — Termination  of  the  Journey.— The  Rock  Obrom. 
— Return  to  Plotbischtsche. — General  Remarks  on  the  Lesser 
Aniuj . Page  171 


THE  GREATER  ANIUJ. 

Journey  continued  on  Horseback. — The  Mountain-Chain  of  the 
Greater  Aniuj. — The  Kameschkowa. — Fur-Hunting. — Traps. 
— Tigischka. — Arrival  at  Sladnoje  and  Lebasnoje. — The  Em- 
peror’s Name-day. — Failure  of  the  Reindeer  Hunt. — Famine. 
— Return  by  Water. — Inhabitants  of  the  Banks  of  the  Greater 
Aniuj. — Tungusi,  Lamuti,  Tschuwanzi,  and  Jakuti. — Their 
Modes  of  Life,  and  Numbers. — Schamariism  and  Schamans. 
— Dolgoje. — Arrival  at  Bol’schaja  Brussanka.  —Freezing  of  the 
River. — Continuation  of  the  Journey  in  Sledges  drawn  by 
Dogs. — Baskowo.— Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk.— Remarks  on 
the  DilFerent  Tribes  whom  we  visited  during  this  Journey 

183 


CHAPTER  X. 

Third  Journey  on  the  Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea  —Preparations. — 
Mortality  among  the  Dogs.  — Departure  from  Nishne  Ko- 
lymsk.— Journey  towards  the  North.  — Waves  of  Drifted 
Snow.  — Encounters  with  White  Bears.  — Deposite  of  Pro- 
visions.—Difficulties. — Accident. — High  Hummocks. — Sec- 
ond Deposite  of  Provisions. — The  Expedition  Divided. — False 
Appearances  of  Land. — Return  to  the  Deposites  of  Provis- 
ions.— The  Expedition  Reunited. — Proceed  Northward  again. 
— Easter. — Breaking  up  of  the  Ice. — Hummocks. — Turn  to 
the  Eastward. — State  6/  the  Ice — Cape  Schelagskoj. — Arri- 
val at  the  First  Deposite  of  Provisions. — Return  to  the  Coast. 
— Pochodsk. — Famine. — Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk — Inun- 
dation   ....  195 


XU 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XL 

M.  Matiuschkin’s  Journey  across  the  Eastern  Tundra  in  the 
Summer  of  1822  Page  221 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Fourth  Journey  on  the  Polar  Sea.—Survey  of  the  Coast  as  far 
as  the  Island  of  Koliutschin 244 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Return  from  Sredne  Kolymsk  to  St.  Petersburg!!  , . 287 


APPENDIX. 

Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea.— The  Polynja,  or  Open  Water. — Currents. 
— Gain  of  the  Land  on  the  Sea. — The  Aurora  Borealis  . 297 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  whole  of  the  immense  extent  of  country 
from  the  White  Sea  to  Behring’s  Straits,  embracing 
145  degrees  of  longitude  along  the  coast  of  Asia 
and  Europe,  has  been  discovered,  surveyed,  and 
described  by  Russians.  All  the  attempts  of  other 
maritime  nations  to  find  a passage  by  the  Polar  Sea 
from  Europe  to  China,  or  from  the  Pacific  into  the 
Atlantic,  have  been  limited,  in  the  West  by  the 
Karskoie  Sea,  and  in  the  East  by  the  meridian  of 
Cape  North.  The  impediments  лѵЫсЬ  arrested 
the  progress  of  others  have  been  conquered  by 
Russians,  accustomed  to  the  severity  of  the  cli- 
mate, and  to  the  privations  inseparable  from  it. 

Th^  first  voyages  to  these  icy  deserts  were  un- 
dertaken by  private  individuals,  attracted  by  the 
hope  of  large  profits  from  a trade  in  the  costly  furs 
of  the  animals  with  which  these  regions  abound.* 
At  a later  period  armed  expeditions  were  sent  out 
by  the  government,  sometimes  by  land,  and  some- 

* “These  skins,”  observes  the  “Sibirskoi  Vestnik,”  “were 
the  golden  fleece  of  those  days  and  of  those  regions,  and  tempt- 
ed not  only  Cossacks  and  fur-hunters  to  brave  the  severest  hard- 
ships, but  even  induced  persons  of  much  higher  rank  to  leave 
their  families  and  abandon  the  conveniences  of  life,  in  order  to 
plunge  into  the  fearful  and  unknown  wildernesses  of  Siberia,  in 
the  hope  of  enriching  themselves  by  this  trade.  It  is  to  the  credit 
of  the  national  character,  however,  that  their  desire  of  gain  never 
drove  them  to  the  atrocities  of  which  the  gold-seeking  conquer- 
ors of  Peru  and  Mexico  were  guilty.” 

В 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


times  by  sea  in  large  flatboats,  which,  creeping 
along  the  coast,  reduced  the  tribes  residing  there, 
one  after  another,  to  Russian  subjection.  Still 
later,  scientific  expeditions  were  fitted  out  at  a con- 
siderable expense,  the  sole  object  of  which  was  to 
make  an  accurate  survey  of  the  countries  already 
visited,  and  to  discover  others. 

Few  of  these  surveys,  however,  afforded  any 
really  satisfactory  result,  so  far  as  geography  and 
hydrography  are  concerned.  The  different  maps 
vary  from  each  other,  as  to  the  position  of  the 
most  important  points,  by  more  than  a degree  and 
a half  of  latitude.  Above  all,  the  whole  coast  from 
Cape  Schelagskoj  to  Cape  North  remained  entire- 
ly unknown,  and  the  account  of  Deshnew’s  voyage 
from  the  Kolyma  through  Behring  Straits  was  so 
vague  and  obscure,  that  the  English  admiral,  Bur- 
ney, founded  on  it  his  well-known  hypothesis  of  an 
isthmus  existing  somewhere  near  Cape  Schelag- 
skoi,  by  which  he  supposed  the  continents  of  Asia 
and  America  to  be  united.  Lastly,  the  tales  of 
Andrejew,  but  more  particularly  Sannikow’s  as- 
sertion respecting  a large  country  to  the  north  of 
Kotelnoi  and  New-Siberia,  found  many  adherents 
in  modern  times,  so  that  the  geography  of  this  por- 
tion of  the  Russian  empire  remained  in  complete 
obscurity,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  memorable 
researches  of  Parry  and  Franklin  had  led  to  the 
most  exact  examination  and  description  of  the 
northern  coast  of  America.* 

To  remove  this  blank  in  the  geography  of  his 

* See  Narrative  of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar 
Seas  and  Regions,  67,  and  Parry’s  Voyages,  100,  101,  Harpers’ 
Family  Library. — Am.  Ed. 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


country,  the  Emperor  Alexander  ordered  two  ex- 
peditions to  be  fitted  out,  each  under  the  command 
of  an  officer  of  the  imperial  navy,  with  a view  to 
an  accurate  survey  of  the  northwest  coast  of  Si- 
beria between  the  Jana  and  the  Kolyma,  and  as  far 
as  the  Schelagskoi  Noss,  and  to  a minute  exami- 
nation of  the  islands  situated  in  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

The  Navy  Department  accordingly  equipped 
two  expeditions  for  these  objects  in  1820,  which 
were  to  proceed  by  land  to  the  northern  coast  of 
Siberia.  A lieutenant  of  the  navy  was  placed  at 
the  head  of  each,  to  be  accompanied  by  two  junior 
officers,  a medical  officer,  who  was  also  to  be  a 
naturalist,  and  two  sailors.  One  of  these  expedi- 
tions, under  Lieutenant  Anjou,  was  to  commence 
its  operations  from  the  mouth  of  the  Jana ; the 
other,  under  my  command,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Kolyma.  My  companions  were  Midshipman  (now 
Captain-lieutenant)  Matiuschkin,  the  mate  Kosmin, 
Dr.  Kyber,  and  two  seamen,  one  of  whom  was  a 
smith,  the  other  a carpenter. 

In  regard  to  the  objects  of  this  expedition,  and 
the  means  for  accomplishing  them,  the  instructions 
given  by  the  Admiralty  Department  say  : “ From 
the  journals  and  reports  of  all  expeditions  hitherto 
undertaken  to  the  Polar  Ocean,  it  appears  that  it  is 
impossible  to  navigate  it  for  scientific  purposes 
even  in  summer,  owing  to  the  presence  of  immense 
quantities  of  drift-ice.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is 
known  that  Sergeant  Andrejew  drove  over  the  ice 
in  the  spring  of  1763  with  sledges  ; and  the  same 
was  done  by  Messrs.  Hedenström  and  Pschenizyn 
in  1809,  1810,  and  1811,  when  the  former  survey- 
ed the  Bear  Islands,  and  the  latter  the  Lächow  Isl- 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


ands  and  New-Siberia.  As  this  appears  to  be  the 
only  practical  plan  for  the  execution  of  his  impe- 
rial majesty’s  desire,  its  adoption  has  been  resolved 
on  by  the  department  of  the  admiralty  with  re- 
spect  to  the  exploring  expedition  now  to  be  sent. 
Accordingly,  the  first  division  of  that  expedition  is 
directed  to  proceed  in  sledges  to  survey  the  coast 
eastward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma  as  far  as 
Cape  Schelagskoj,  and  from  thence  to  proceed  in  a 
northerly  direction,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether 
an  inhabited  country  exists  in  that  quarter,  as  as- 
serted by  the  Tschuktschi  and  others.” 

Such,  no  doubt,  was  the  only  practicable  plan, 
namely,  to  undertake  the  contemplated  journey  with 
sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  But  to  procure  this  first 
requisite,  and  to  collect  the  necessary  supplies,  was 
a task  attended  by  so  many  difficulties  in  the  in- 
hospitable and  uninhabited  deserts  of  Northeastern 
Siberia,  that  it  would  have  been  impossible  to 
overcome  them  without  the  co-operation  of  the 
public  officers  in  that  country.  It  was  therefore 
fortunate  for  us  that  the  arrangement  of  everything 
relating  to  our  expedition  had  been  confided  to 
Privy-councillor  Speranski,  at  that  time  governor- 
general  of  Siberia,  who  promoted  it  in  the  most 
active  manner,  and  by  whose  judicious  measures 
and  kind  anticipation  of  our  most  minute  wants 
we  were  happily  enabled  to  execute  the  task  as- 
signed to  us. 

In  publishing  this  narrative  I have  had  no  other 
object  in  view  than  to  extend  the  geographical 
knowledge  of  those  regions,  to  correct  previously- 
existing  errors,  and,  by  a plain  statement  of  what 
we  ourselves  have  done,  to  make  our  experience 


INTRODUCTION.  ХѴІі 

useful  to  those  who  may  come  after  us.  With 
these  views,  I have  ventured  to  be  rather  diffuse  in 
the  description  of  particular  circumstances  and 
events  connected  with  our  Journey  when  they  hap- 
pened to  bear  directly  upon  the  objects  of  our  mis- 
sion. In  all  that  relates  to  the  natural  history  and 
physical  characteristics  of  the  country,  I have  ad- 
hered, for  the  most  part,  to  the  observations  of  Dr. 
Kyber,  who  accompanied  me  as  naturalist. 

В 2 


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NARRATIVE  OF  AN  EXPEDITION 


TO 

SIBERIA  AND  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  St.  Petersburgh. — Arrival  at  Irkuzk.—Passage 
down  the  Lena. — Account  of  Scenery,  Navigation,  &c. — Ar- 
rival at  Jakuzk. — Annual  Fair  at  Jakuzk. — Character  and  Cus- 
toms of  the  Inhabitants. — Departure  for  Nishne  Kolymsk. 

Both  divisions  of  our  expedition  left  St.  Peters- 
burgh  on  the  23d  of  March,  1820.  In  Moscow  I 
parted  from  the  commander  of  the  second  division, 
Lieutenant  Anjou,  who  waited  there  to  obtain  better 
means  of  transport  for  our  instruments.  The  pilot 
Kosmin  remained  with  him  to  take  charge  of  the 
instruments  belonging  to  our  division.  Meanwhile, 
accompanied  by  M.  Matiuschkin  (midshipman),  I 
hastened  to  Irkuzk,  that  no  time  might  be  lost  in 
setting  on  foot  the  necessary  preparations  for  the 
mission  with  which  I was  charged.  To  make  our 
journey  as  rapid  as  possible,  we  took  with  us  only 
two  small  portmanteaus  for  our  clothes,  &c.,  and 
travelled  by  the  ordinary  post  in  the  little  carriages 
called  telegi,  which  are  changed  at  every  station, 
and  are  adapted  in  every  case  to  the  nature  of  the 
road. 

The  overflowing  of  many  of  the  rivers  on  either 
side  of  the  Ural  Chain  impeded  our  journey,  but 
made  us  amends  by  the  variety  which  was  thus  giv- 
en to  the  landscape ; the  valleys  being  all  changed 


20  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


into  lakes,  and  the  rising  grounds  forming  green  isl- 
ands. On  the  road  from  Moscow  to  Irkuzk,  which 
is  5317  wersts*  in  length,  we  experienced  repeated 
alternations  of  spring  and  winter.  At  Kasan  the 
trees  were  green  and  the  meadows  full  of  flowers, 
while  in  the  Ural  Chain,  the  summits  of  the  mount- 
ains, and  the  narrow  ravines  which  were  shaded 
from  the  sun,  were  covered  with  snow.  Though  at 
Tobolsk  the  grass  was  only  just  beginning  to  ap- 
pear in  the  pastures,  the  romantic  Krasnojarsk 
showed  all  the  luxuriance  of  spring,  and  the  gardens 
at  Irkuzk  were  in  full  flower.  The  rapidity  of  our 
journey  placed  every  contrast  in  the  most  striking 
light.  We  passed  in  a few  days  from  the  magnifi- 
cent palaces  of  St.  Petersburgh  and  Moscow  to  the 
huts  of  the  wandering  Tungusi ; from  the  vast  oak 
and  lime-tree  forests  of  Kasan,  to  the  desert  and 
snow-covered  banks  of  the  Alasej  and  the  Kolyma. 

After  crossing  the  Ural  Chain,  which  is  here 
well  named  the  “ Stony  Girdle,”  and  entering  Si- 
beria Proper,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the 
kind  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  who  spared  no 
pains  to  enable  us  to  prosecute  our  journey  with 
the  least  possible  delay.  Whether  by  day  or  by 
night,  our  things  might  be  safely  left  unwatched  on 
the  high  road  while  we  were  changing  carriages ; 
and  if  we  expressed  uneasiness  about  them,  the  an- 
swer was  always  “ Neboss,  never  fear : nothing  is 
stolen  here.”  Those  whose  ideas  of  Siberia  are  as- 
sociated with  criminals  and  exiles  inhabiting  a cold 
and  desolate  wilderness,  would  find  instead,  in  this 
southern  part  at  least,  luxuriant  vegetation,  careful- 
ly-cultivated fields,  excellent  roads,  large  well-built 
villages,  and  general  security  and  comfort. 

On  the  18th  of  May  we  reached  Irkuzk,  and  alight- 

* A werst  is  about  two  thirds  of  a statute  mile ; or,  to  speak 
more  exactly,  104  wersts  are  equal  to  60  geographical  miles. — 
Am.  JE(L 


ARRIVAL  AT  KOTSCHUGA. 


21 


ed  at  the  house  of  M.  Kotygin,  whose  hospitality  I 
shared  during  the  month  of  my  stay  there.  I imme- 
diately announced  myself  to  the  governor-gener- 
al of  Siberia,  M.  Speranski,  by  whose  kindness 
and  support  I was  speedily  enabled  to  complete 
the  arrangements  for  our  ulterior  proceedings.  He 
showed  me  the  correspondence  which  he  had  had 
with  the  authorities  of  the  different  provinces  through 
which  we  were  to  pass  on  the  subject  of  our  expe- 
dition, in  order  that  I might  point  out  to  him  any- 
thing which  might  still  be  wanting.  M.  Heden- 
ström,*  who  had  visited  the  coast  and  islands  of  the 
Polar  Sea  in  1811,  came,  at  the  request  of  the  gov- 
ernor-general, to  meet  me  at  Irkuzk,  and  his  con- 
versation and  manuscripts  afforded  me  most  valua- 
ble information. 

Early  in  June,  Lieutenant  Anjou  and  the  other 
members  of  the  expedition  arrived  at  Irkuzk  with 
the  instruments ; and  on  the  25th  of  June  we  left 
the  capital  of  Siberia,  full  of  gratitude  for  the  kind- 
ness, friendship,  and  sympathy  we  had  enjoyed 
there,  which  we  prized  the  more,  as  we  were  now 
to  take  our  leave  of  the  civilized  world,  and  of  all 
the  enjoyments  of  social  life. 

On  the  27th  of  June  we  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Kotschuga,  236  worsts  from  Irkuzk,  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Lena,  which  is  navigable  from  thence. 
We  found  here  a large  flat-bottomed  decked  boat, 
which  we  loaded  with  the  provisions  which  had 
been  collected  by  the  orders  of  the  admiralty  at 
Irkuzk,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  28th  of  June  we 
began  to  descend  this  majestic  river. 

Kotschuga  is  a kind  of  e7itrep6t  for  all  goods  which 
are  to  be  conveyed  by  water  to  towns  or  places  near 
the  Lena.  They  are  sent  partly  in  large  heavily- 


* M.  Hedenström  was  engaged  in  examining  the  coasts  of 
Siberia  and  exploring  the  country  from  1809  to  1811  inclusive. 
—•Aw.  Ed. 


22  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


laden  barks,  which  are  broken  up  for  building  mate- 
rials or  for  firewood  on  their  arrival  at  Jakuzk,  as 
they  are  too  unwieldy  to  return  against  the  stream, 
and  partly  in  smaller  boats,  which  can  be  rowed  or 
towed  up  the  river  again  : there  are  also  a few  good- 
sized  decked  boats,  with  sails. 

Travellers  with  but  little  luggage  make  use  of 
small  light  boats,  which  always  keep  near  the  wind- 
ward bank  for  safety.  The  traveller  is  entitled  to 
demand  at  every  post  station  as  many  rowers  as 
there  are  horses  marked  on  his  travelling  pass.*  In 
this  way  he  gets  on  without  interruption,  and  speed- 
ily, especially  if  he  is  going  down  the  stream. 

These  are  as  yet  the  only  provisions  made  for  an 
internal  navigation,  which  is  of  the  highest  impor- 
tance in  a country  like  Siberia,  where  the  settle- 
ments are  often  many  hundred  wersts  apart,  and 
where  the  northern  districts  have  to  depend  for  the 
necessaries  of  life  on  the  cultivated  provinces  of  the 
south.  Few  countries  in  the  world  are  favoured 
with  such  extensive  water-communication  as  Sibe- 
ria. The  great  rivers  flowing  into  the  Polar  Ocean 
seem  intended  by  nature  to  convey  the  superfluities 
of  the  South  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  barren  North ; 
and  the  country,  in  addition  to  this,  is  so  intersected 
by  navigable  streams,  that  there  is  scarcely  a point 
of  any  importance  which  cannot  be  reached  by  wa- 

* No  person  can  travel  in  Russia  without  a pass  or  permission 
from  the  proper  authorities ; and  this  paper,  which  the  travel- 
ler takes  with  him,  mentions  the  number  of  horses  to  which  he 
is  entitled,  and  requires  the  postmasters  at  the  different  stopping 
stations  to  furnish  them ; the  rate  at  which  they  are  to  be  paid 
for  being  also  stated  in  the  pass.  This,  indeed,  is  the  common 
mode  of  travelling  in  most  of  the  countries  on  the  Continent  of 
Europe ; travellers  providing  themselves  with  their  own  con- 
veyances, and  obtaining  relays  of  horses  in  this  way  on  the 
road.  In  1823,  however,  a line  of  stage-coaches  {diligences)  was 
established  between  St.  Petersburgh  and  Moscow;  and  this 
more  cheap  and  convenient  mode  of  travelling  has  been  since 
adopted  on  other  principal  routes. — Am.  Ed. 


NAVIGATION  OF  THE  LENA. 


23 


ter.  Some  meal,  salt,  tea,  sugar,  brandy,  tobacco, 
and  a few  cloth  stuffs  are,  indeed,  sent  in  boats 
from  the  yearly  fair  at  Jakuzk  to  Shigansk,  and 
other  places  on  the  Lower  Lena ; but  from  the  im- 
perfection of  the  boats,  and  the  want  of  hands  prop- 
erly to  man  them,  the  passage  is  often  so  long  that 
winter  comes  on  before  they  arrive  at  their  desti- 
nation. They  have  then  to  wait  till  spring ; and,  al- 
though some  of  the  most  indispensable  articles  may 
be  sent  on  by  land,  this  enhances  the  price  so  enor- 
mously, that  very  few  are  transported  in  that  way. 
The  arrival  of  these  stores  is  a subject  of  painful 
anxiety  to  the  inhabitants,  and  their  non-arrival  is 
often  the  cause  of  severe  and  general  sickness. 
The  goods  which  remain  behind  are  sure  to  be  more 
or  less  injured  ; and  the  custody  of  them  during  the 
winter  is  a heavy  charge  upon  the  settlers  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  who  are  held  responsible  for 
whatever  belongs  to  the  crown. 

All  these  serious  disadvantages  might  be  obviated 
by  the  employment  of  a steamer,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  which  vessels  could  reach  the  most  distant 
places  on  the  Lower  Lena  in  a month  from  Kots- 
chuga,  and  thus  the  passage  could  be  made  twice 
in  the  course  of  the  summer.  In  this  way  the 
whole  district  between  Irkuzk  and  the  sea,  about 
4000  wersts  in  extent,  would  receive  new  life,  in- 
dustry would  be  encouraged,  and  severe  suffering 
and  privation  averted ; while  the  forests  on  the 
banks  of  the  Upper  Lena  offer  inexhaustible  stores 
of  cheap  and  easily  accessible  fuel,  the  preparation 
of  which  would  afford  additional  employment  and 
profit  to  the  natives.* 

* It  is  a singular  fact,  that,  notwithstanding  the  immense  fa 
cilities  which  Russia  possesses  for  internal  steam  navigation, 
there  is  not,  or  was  not  a very  few  years  ago  (and  it  is  believed 
that  but  little  change  in  this  particular  has  taken  place  since), 
a single  steamer  on  any  of  her  great  rivers,  except  a small  one 
on  the  Volga.  This  is  owing  in  part,  no  doubt,  to  want  of  en- 


24  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition 


But  to  return  to  our  own  navigation.  With  the 
occasional  assistance  of  sails  or  oars,  our  boat  glided 
rapidly  down  the  stream,  between  high  and  roman- 
tic banks.  The  Lena  is  one  of  the  largest  rivers  in 
the  world : from  Kotschuga  to  Rigi,  a distance  of 
400  worsts,  the  country  is  mountainous  and  covered 
with  impenetrable  forests,  and  the  banks  on  either 
side  present  a succession  of  picturesque  and  varied 
views  of  great  beauty.  On  the  slopes  of  the  hills 
we  saw  cultivated  fields,  pasture-grounds,  and  vege- 
table-gardens surrounding  the  cottages  of  the  peas- 
ants, which  sometimes  stood  singly,  and  sometimes 
formed  little  villages. 

There  are  many  wooded  islands  in  the  bed  of  the 
river.  The  banks  became  steeper  and  the  mount- 
ains more  lofty  as  we  approached  Rigi,  where  the 
river  makes  a sudden  bend  to  the  east ; the  mount- 
ains closing  in  upon  it,  and  appearing  to  divert  it 
from  its  course.  Lower  down  it  escapes  from  the 
hills,  and  flows  on  in  a broader  stream,  between  flat 
banks.  Below  Rigi  there  are  a few  shallows  which 
in  some  degree  impede  the  navigation  when  the  wa- 
ter is  low  ; but  after  these  are  past,  the  flat  vessels 
in  common  use  meet  with  no  impediment  through- 
out the  remainder  of  their  passage.  The  first  per- 
manent winter-habitation  of  the  Russians  on  the 
banks  of  the  Lena  was  built  in  1631,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kuta,  a tributary  stream  from  the  west. 
The  Lena  was  first  discovered  by  the  Turuchanschi 
in  1607,  and  afterward  by  Cossacks  from  the  Jenis- 
sei in  1628.* 

terprise ; partly,  also,  to  the  jealous  character  of  the  government ; 
but  more  than  all  to  the  numberless  annoyances  which  indi- 
viduals undertaking  anything  of  the  kind  experience  from  the 
local  authorities,  in  the  shape  of  interference,  delays,  bribes, 
&c. — Am.  Ed. 

* The  Cossacks  were  the  conquerors  of  Siberia,  and  the  dis- 
covery of  this  river  greatly  assisted  them  in  the  subjugation  of 
the  country. — Am.  Ed. 


PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  LENA. 


25 


Between  Saborje  and  Kirensk  the  river  winds  so 
much  that  the  distance  by  water  is  105  wersts,  while 
in  a straight  line  it  is  only  thirty*  five.  It  is  here 
seven  fathoms  deep,  and  has  scarcely  any  current. 
At  Kirensk  the  left  bank  consists  of  black  slate 
rocks,  with  some  talc.  A few  wersts  below  I saw 
strata  of  chloride  slate,  in  red  clay.  About  100* 
wersts  farther  down,  the  right  bank  consists  of  com- 
mon clay  and  imperfect  slate.  At  Schtscheki,  250 
лversts  beyond  Kirensk,  the  rocks  on  the  left  bank 
are  limestone,  interspersed  with  veins  of  flint  and 
calcareous  spar.  The  banks  become  low  and  flat 
350  wersts  above  Olekma.  Here  there  are  a quan- 
tity of  fragments  of  green-stone  porphyry,  common 
quartz  with  mica,  and  much  mica-slate.  About  150 
wersts  from  Olekma,  the  left  bank,  which  is  high, 
consists  of  layers  of  different  coloured  slate,  the 
green  layers  being  thick,  and  the  intervening  gray 
layers  very  thin  ; and  occasionally  I saw  small  veins 
of  gypsum  interspersed.  At  Olekma,  the  left  bank 
consists  entirely  of  clay,  with  rather  thick  layers  of 
gray  slate,  and  a beautiful  dazzling  white  gypsum. 
About  180  wersts  above  Jakuzk,  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  is  formed  of  perpendicular  rocks,  which 
from  their  form  are  called  Stolby,  or  the  pillars  ; and 
there  are  here  several  kinds  of  marble.  About  sixty 
wersts  below  Stolby  there  are  many  excavations  in 
the  bluff  limestone  rocks,  the  remains,  probably,  of 
former  attempts  to  discover  silver  ore.  Dr.  Kyber 
saw  in  one  of  these  caves  a larch-tree  growing  from 
the  rocky  floor,  at  the  depth  of  several  fathoms,  and 
flourishing  in  spite  of  the  constant  darkness.  To 
these  scanty  notices  concerning  the  banks  of  the 
Lena  I may  add  the  mention  of  two  mineral  springs 
on  opposite  sides,  150  wersts  below  Stolby.  The 
one  on  the  left  bank  issues  from  a steep  limestone 
rock,  and  has  a sulphurous  smell  and  a high  temper- 
ature ; the  other,  on  the  low  bank  opposite,  is  cold, 
very  clear,  and  has  a strong  taste  of  salt. 

C 


26  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


The  town  of  Kirensk  is  a poor  little  village,  chief- 
ly deserving  of  notice  for  the  success  of  the  inhabi- 
tants in  cultivating  vegetables.  They  send  to  Ja- 
kuzk  cabbages,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  sometimes 
even  cucumbers.  The  gardens  are  all  so  placed  as. 
to  be  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east  by  hills, 
rocks,  or  woods. 

About  250  wersts  below  Kirensk,  the  Lena  passes 
between  precipitous  rocks  nearly  500  feet  high  : the 
depth  of  the  river  in  this  part  is  twelve  fathoms. 
This  place  is  remarkable  for  an  echo,  which  repeats 
the  report  of  a pistol-shot  at  least  a hundred  times, 
the  sound  increasing  in  intensity  so  as  to  resemble 
a well-sustained  running  fire  of  musketry,  or  even 
a cannonade.  They  told  us  here  the  story  of  a hunt- 
er, who  on  his  snow-shoes  had  pursued  an  elk  to 
the  edge  of  the  precipice  ; and,  in  the  ardour  of  the 
chase,  both  man  and  beast  had  been  precipitated  on 
the  ice  of  the  river,  eighty  fathoms  below.  Near 
this  place  we  passed  a steep  rock  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  where  a bark  laden  with  brandy*  had  been 
wrecked  some  time  before  : it  is  a little  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Witima,  which  is  celebrated  for  the 
quantity  of  talc  found  on  its  banks,  and  still  more 
for  its  beautiful  sables,  which  are  esteemed  the  finest 
in  all  Siberia  after  those  of  Olekma.  The  forests 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lena  are  rich  in  fur- animals 
of  all  kinds,  and  the  furs  are  remarkably  fine  ; where- 
as on  the  left  bank  the  skins  are  of  an  inferior  qual- 
ity, as  well  as  much  more  scarce.  This,  indeed, 
might  be  expected,  as  the  vast  woods  which  cover 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  are  connected  with  the 
forests  of  the  Jablonnoj  Stanowoj  Chrebet,t  into 
which  the  most  adventurous  fur-hunters  have  not 

* That  is,  the  common  spirituous  liquor  of  the  country,  distil- 
led from  rye,  and  called  by  the  Russians  watka. — Am.  Ed. 

t This  is  the  name  of  the  chain  of  mountains  which  extends 
southward  on  the  east  side  of  the  Lena,  and  connects  itself  with 
the  Baikal  chain. 


PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  LENA. 


27 


yet  penetrated ; while  the  left  bank  is  more  lightly 
wooded  and  better  inhabited. 

On  the  9th  of  June  we  found  ourselves  opposite 
the  town  of  Olekma.*  Here  we  had  heavy  rain, 
and  so  violent  a wind  setting  against  the  stream  as 
completely  to  stop  oür  progress.  We  had  recourse, 
therefore,  to  an  expedient  commonly  resorted  to 
here  in  such  cases,  and  which  succeeded  perfectly 
well.  We  bound  four  larch-trees  together  in  a row, 
and,  by  attaching  stones  to  them,  suspended  them 
about  a fathom  under  water,  their  tops  being  down- 
ward, and  their  roots  attached  by  cords  to  the  fore- 
part of  our  vessel.  As  the  wind  had  no  effect  on 
the  water  at  that  depth,  the  under  current,  acting  on 
this  kind  of  subaqueous  sail,  impelled  us  forward,  in 
spite  of  the  opposition  encountered  at  the  surface. 

As  we  continued  our  voyage,  we  saw  large  tracts 
of  forest  burning,  notwithstanding  the  heavy  rain. 
The  bushes  and  dry  underwood  were  for  the  most 
part  already  consumed.  The  giant  pines  and  larch- 
es still  stood  enveloped  in  flames,  offering  a mag- 
nificent spectacle,  especially  at  night,  when  the  red 
flames  were  reflected  by  the  Avaves  of  the  Lena,  and 
nothing  was  heard  but  the  loud  crackling  of  the  huge 
resinous  trees.  The  forest-conflagrations  often  des- 

* The  sables  of  Olekma  are  the  best  in  Siberia  ; from  50  to 
100  roubles-^  a piece,  and  even  more,  are  sometimes  given  here 
for  skins  of  remarkable  beauty.  Those  which  have  a bluish 
cast  are  the  most  prized.  The  squirrel  skins  of  this  district, 
which  are  distinguished  for  their  very  long,  thick,  dark-grey 
hair,  are  also  much  sought  after,  and  fetch  a high  price.  Olek- 
ma is  therefore  a place  of  importance  on  account  of  its  fur-trade. 
It  may  moreover  be  regarded  as  the  limit  of  grain-cultivation 
in  Siberia  : none  grows  to  the  north  of  Olekma,  and  the  winter 
rye,  which  is  the  only  grain  cultivated  at  this  place,  not  unfre- 
quently  fails. 


* The  paper  rouble  is  here  meant,  the  value  of  which  is  about  20 
cents  : the  Russian  silver  rouble  is  worth  about  77  cents.  The  curren- 
cy of  the  country  consists,  for  the  most  part,  of  paper,  and  it  is  this  cur- 
rency which  is  referred  to  throughout  the  volume.— Am.  Ed. 


28  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

olate  hundreds  of  wersts,  and  almost  always  origi- 
nate in  the  carelessness  of  hunters  or  travellers,  who 
neglect  to  extinguish  the  fires  which  they  have  light- 
ed to  dress  their  food,  or  to  drive  away  the  clouds 
of  moschetoes  which  darken  the  air,  and  are  an  al- 
most insupportable  torment.  Besides  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  trees,  these  fires  have  the  farther  bad  ef- 
fect of  driving  the  fur-animals  and  game  of  all  kinds 
to  more  remote  and  undisturbed  districts.  Still  the 
hunters,  who  are  the  greatest  losers,  are  not  cured 
of  this  ruinous  carelessness. 

The  farther  north  we  proceeded,  the  more  deso- 
late the  shores  of  the  river  became  in  every  respect. 
We  had  seen  at  Olekma  the  last  traces  of  either 
field  or  garden  cultivation : beyond  it  the  natives 
subsist  entirely  on  the  produce  of  their  cattle,  and 
by  hunting  and  fishing.  There  are  scarcely  any  set- 
tlements except  the  post-stations,  and  the  few  inhab- 
itants appear  to  be  miserably  off.  Those  who  came 
to  us  were  in  rags,  and  bowed  down  by  want  and 
sickness.  This  is  especially  the  case  with  the  Rus- 
sian settlers,  who  are  found  as  far  north  as  within 
fifty  wersts  of  Jakuzk.  Beyond  this  the  population 
consists  entirely  of  Jakuti,  who,  as  the  true  aborigi- 
nes, know  how  to  encounter  the  climate  better,  and 
suffer  less  from  its  severity  and  privations. 

After  sticking  fast  one  whole  night  on  a sand- 
bank, we  landed  at  Jakuzk  on  the  25th  of  July,  hav- 
ing been  twenty-five  days  in  making  the  passage 
from  Kotschuga,  a distance  of  2500  wersts.  In  the 
spring,  when  the  current  is  more  rapid,  and  contrary 
winds  are  rare,  this  voyage  does  not  occupy  more 
than  thirteen  or  fourteen  days. 

At  Jakuzk  we  were  most  kindly  received  by  the 
commandant,  M.  Minizkoj,  in  whose  house  M.  Anjou 
, and  myself  remained  during  our  stay.  We  were 
indebted  to  him  for  much  valuable  information  and 
advice  relative  to  our  journeying  in  Siberia,  which 
he  has  thoroughly  studied  during  a residence  there 


JAKUZK. 


29 


of  many  years,  and  by  actually  travelling  through 
most  parts  of  it.  The  whole  time  that  the  expedi- 
tion remained  in  the  province  under  his  command, 
his  watchful  care  and  assistance  were  of  essential 
service  in  supplying  its  wants,  in  a country  so  de- 
ficient in  resources,  and  doubtless  contributed  es- 
sentially to  the  success  of  the  enterprise. 

Jakuzk  has  all  the  character  of  the  cold  and 
gloomy  north.  It  is  situated  on  a barren  flat,  near 
the  river.  The  streets  are  wide,  but  the  houses  and 
cottages  have  a mean  aspect,  and  are  surrounded  by 
tall  wooden  fences.  Among  so  many  dry  boards 
there  is  not  a green  tree  or  bush  to  be  seen : nothing 
to  tell  of  summer  except  the  absence  of  snow,  and 
this  may  be  considered,  perhaps,  rather  a disadvan- 
tage in  point  of  appearance. 

The  town  has  4000  inhabitants.  It  consists  of 
about  500  houses,  five  churches  (three  built  of  stone 
and  two  of  wood),  and  a convent.  A stone  building 
for  commercial  purposes  has  recently  been  erected. 
The  only  relic  of  antiquity  is  an  old  wooden  fortress 
or  ostrog,  with  its  ruined  tower,  which  was  built  in 
1647  by  the  conquerors  of  Siberia,  the  Cossacks. 
The  inhabitants  look  with  no  little  satisfaction  on 
this  monument  of  the  exploits  of  their  ancestors, 
and  are,  in  general,  proud  and  fond  of  their  native 
city,  whatever  strangers  may  think  of  it.  The 
town  has  undergone  great  improvements  in  the  last 
thirty  years.  The  Jakutian  jurti,  which  Captain 
Billings*  saw  here  in  1793,  have  been  replaced  by 
substantial  dwellings ; the  windows  of  ice  or  of  talc 
have  given  лѵау  to  glass  in  the  better  class  of  hous- 
es, and  the  more  wealthy  inhabitants  begin  to  have 
higher  rooms,  larger  windows,  double  doors,  &c. 
These  are  signs  of  increasing  prosperity,  under  the 

* This  officer  was  sent  by  the  Russian  government  with  two 
small  vessels,  in  1787,  to  explore  the  coast  of  Siberia,  and  to  at- 
tempt a passage  to  the  Pacific  through  Behring’s  Straits. — Am» 
JEd. 

C2 


30  ' Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


wise  and  fostering  care  of  the  excellent  governor  of 
the  province. 

Jakuzk  is  the  centre  of  the  interior  trade  of  Sibe- 
ria. All  the  most  costly  furs,  as  well  as  the  more 
common  kinds,  walrus  teeth,  and  mammoth  bones, 
those  curious  remains  of  an  earlier  world,  are  brought 
here  for  sale  or  barter  during  the  ten  weeks  of  sum- 
mer, from  Anabor  and  Behring’s  Straits,  from  the 
coasts  of  the  Polar  Sea,  from  the  mountains  near 
Olekma,  from  the  Aldan  and  from  Udsk,  and  even 
from  Ochozk  and  Kamtschatka.  It  is  not  easy  to 
imagine  the  mountain-like  piles  of  furs  of  all  kinds, 
the  value  of  which  often  exceeds  two  and  a half 
millions  of  roubles.* 

As  soon  as  the  Lena  is  clear  of  ice,  the  merchants 
begin  to  arrive  from  Irkuzk,  bringing  with  them  for 
barter  corn,  meal,  the  pungent  Circassian  tobacco, 
tea,  sugar,  brandy  and  rum,  Chinese  cotton  and  silk 
stuffs,  yarn,  cloth  of  an  inferior  quality,  hardware, 
glass,  &c. 

At  the  annual  fair  of  Jakuzk  one  sees  none  of  the 
popular  amusements  common  at  fairs  in  Europe  : 
there  is  not  even  the  appearance  of  animation  and 
bustle  which  might  naturally  be  expected.  The 
goods  are  not  openly  exposed  for  sale,  and  most  of 
the  purchases  are  effected  in  the  houses  or  enclosures 
of  the  citizens.  The  strangers  generally  seek  to 

* The  sorting  of  the  sables  is  a business  requiring  very  great 
experience  and  skill.  They  are  classed  according  to  the  ful- 
ness and  length  of  the  fur  ; its  colour,  not  only  at  the  tip,  but 
also  near  the  root  ; and  the  thickness  of  the  skin.  All  these 
qualities  must  be  combined  in  a high  degree  of  perfection  in 
order  to  form  a good  assortment.  It  is  often  necessary  to  ex- 
amine more  than  a thousand  skins  to  select  a sufficient  num- 
ber for  one  good  tippet.  The  tails,  paws,  and  light-coloured 
parts  of  the  skins  are  sewed  together  and  sold  separately.* 


* The  smallest  clippings  or  pieces  of  the  fur  are  thus  preserved,  and  it 
is  not  extravagant  to  say,  that  several  thousand  of  these  small  patches 
may  be  counted  in  a single  robe  ; that  is,  a piece  of  fur  sufficiently  largo 
to  line  an  outside  winter  garment,— Am.  Ed. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  JAKUZK. 


31 


conceal  from  each  other  the  particulars  of  their  deal- 
ings, which  are  almost  exclusively  with  the  inhabi- 
tants, they  scarcely  ever  having  any  transactions  with 
one  another.  Almost  all  the  Russian  settlers  in  Ja- 
kuzk  employ  their  little  capital  in  purchasing,  in  small 
parcels  from  the  Jakuti  during  the  winter,  a collec- 
tion of  furs,  on  which  they  realize  a good  profit  at 
the  fair.  The  Russians  live  entirely  by  trade,  hav- 
ing abandoned  all  sorts  of  handicraft  to  the  aborigi- 
nal Jakuti,  among  whom  there  are  now  excellent 
carpenters,  cabinet-makers,  carvers  in  wood,  and 
even  painters.  The  pictures  of  saints,  and  the  carv- 
ing and  interior  fittings  in  the  new  church  at  Ja- 
kuzk,  are  all  by  Jakuti,  and  are  neatly  executed. 

The  inhabitants  are  far  from  being  in  an  advanced 
state  of  intellectual  cultivation;  books  are  extreme- 
ly rare,  and  education  is  but  little  thought  of,  the 
children  usually  passing  the  first  years  of  their  in- 
fancy with  a Jakuti  nurse,  from  whom  they  learn 
so  much  of  her  native  language  that  I often  found 
the  conversation  of  persons  in  the  best  society  very 
difficult  to  understand.  As  the  children  grow  up, 
they  learn  a little  reading  and  writing  from  the 
priests.  After  this  they  are  gradually  initiated  into 
the  mysteries  of  the  Siberian  fur-trade,  or  obtain 
places  under  government.  Their  hospitality  is  pro- 
verbial ; but  as  there  are  usually  but  few  strangers, 
they  can,  for  the  most  part,  only  exercise  it  towards 
each  other.  They  pass  much  of  their  superabun- 
dant leisure  in  somewhat  noisy  assemblages,  where 
eating  and  drinking  play  a most  important  part. 
After  dinner,  which  is  a very  substantial  meal,  and 
at  which  naliwki  (a  kind  of  liqueur  made  of  brandy, 
berries,  and  sugar)  is  not  spared,  the  elderly  gentle- 
men pass  the  remainder  of  the  day  with  cards  and 
punch,  the  ladies  gather  round  the  tea-table,  and  the 
young  people  dance  to  the  sound  of  a kind  of  harp 
with  metal  strings,  which  is  the  only  instrument 
they  possess.  I have  heard  some  of  the  old  people 


32  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


lament  that  the  love  of  play,  dress,  and  expense 
have  increased  so  much  of  late  that  many  families 
have  been  completely  ruined  by  it.  My  stay,  how- 
ever, was  not  sufficiently  long  to  enable  me  to  judge 
how  much  of  this  complaint  was  to  be  ascribed  to 
the  disposition  so  natural  to  the  aged,  to  regard  the 
time  of  their  youth  as  the  good  old  time,  and  the 
present  age  as  greatly  degenerated  from  it. 

By  the  aid  of  M.  Minizkoj’s  exertions  we  were 
enabled  to  resume  our  journey  before  the  close  of 
the  summer.  Early  in  August  Lieutenant  Anjou 
descended  the  Lena  with  his  division  of  the  expedi- 
tion ; about  the  same  time  I sent  M.  Matiuschkin 
forward  to  Nishne  Kolymsk  to  prepare  for  our  re- 
ception ; and,  as  soon  as  the  morasses  and  rivers 
were  frozen,  the  stores  for  our  use  were  despatched 
under  the  charge  of  M.  Kosmin.  My  own  departure 
for  Kolymsk  took  place  on  the  12th  of  September. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  for  Nishne  Kolymsk. — Pack-horses. — First  Bivouac. 
— The  Jakuti.— Jakutian  Settlement. — Mioro.— Jurti,  Cloth- 
ing, Customs,  Songs,  Food,  Villages,  National  Characteris- 
tics.— The  River  Aldan. — The  River  Tukulan.— Forest  Bi- 
vouac.— Werchow  Mountains. — Wandering  Tungusi. — Bara- 
low  and  Tabolog  Stations. — Saschsiwersk. — Inhabitants  of 
the  District. — The  River  Alaseja. — The  Sardach  Station.— 
Sredne  Kolymsk. — Winter  Travelling  Costume. — The  Omo- 
lon  River.— Dogs  and  Sledges.— Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk. 

Regular  travelling  ends  at  Jakuzk,  as  from  thence 
to  Kolymsk,  and  generally  throughout  Northern  Si- 
beria, there  are  no  beaten  roads.  The  utmost  that 
can  be  looked  for  are  foot  or  horse  tracks  leading 
through  morasses  and  tangled  forests,  and  over  rocks 


DEPARTURE  FOR  NISHNE  KOLYMSK. 


33 


and  mountains.  Travellers  proceed  on  horseback 
through  the  hilly  country,  and  on  reaching  the  plains 
use  sledges  drawn  either  by  reindeer  or  dogs. 

On  what  is  called  the  Jakuzk  road,  which  crosses 
from  the  right  bank  of  the  Lena  to  the  Aldan,  there 
are  post-stations  for  changing  horses  at  a distance 
of  from  fifteen  to  forty  worsts.  In  summer  travel- 
ling is  almost  exclusively  by  water.  I began  m)^ 
journey  by  crossing  in  a boat  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  where  we  expected  to  find  horses  waiting 
for  us.  My  companions  were  a sailor  who  had 
come  with  me  from  St.  Petersburgh,  and  a retired 
sergeant  from  Jakuzk,  who  had  been  with  M.  Heden- 
strom  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  and  whose  ex- 
perience and  ability  were  subsequently  of  great  ser- 
vice to  the  expedition : he  was  also  my  interpreter. 
We  had  ordered  thirteen  horses,  three  for  ourselves, 
and  the  remainder  for  our  provisions,  instruments, 
winter- clothing,  and  other  necessaries. 

When  we  landed  at  the  post-station  neither  men 
nor  horses  were  to  be  seen : this  was  a bad  begin- 
ning, but  the  sergeant  said  it  was  a common  occur- 
rence, and  that  the  Jakuti  had  probably  taken  their 
horses  to  a valley  three  wersts  off,  where  there  was 
better  pasture.  We  sent  the  boatmen  to  look  for 
them,  and  meanwhile  lighted  a good  fire  on  the 
beach,  and  prepared  some  soup  to  fortify  ourselves 
for  the  journey.  The  weather  was  raw  and  cold, 
and  the  country  showed  every  symptom  of  ap- 
proaching winter. 

In  three  hours  the  men  and  horses  arrived,  and 
we  commenced  loading  them  : each  horse  carries 
about  5^  pood  (220  Russian  pounds),  2^  pood  on  each 
side,  and  half  a pood  on  the  back.* " The  animals 
are  then  fastened  together  in  a string,  the  bridle  of 
each  being  tied  to  the  tail  of  the  next.  Our  string 
of  ten  horses  was  managed  by  only  two  postillions, 

* A pood  is  40  Russian  lbs , or  36  lbs.  avoirdupois. — Am.  Ed, 


34  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

one  riding  the  leading  horse,  and  the  other  the  hind- 
most one.  These  drivers  have  no  easy  task : the 
horses  sometimes  stick  fast  in  the  morasses,  or 
stumble  on  the  rocks  and  among  the  precipices,  or 
break  loose  and  try  to  roll  off  their  burdens  ; and  the 
men  must  be  ever  on  the  watch  to  remedy  such  dis- 
asters. Long  practice,  however,  makes  them  so  ex- 
pert at  this,  that  an  experienced  Jakut  will  some- 
times take  the  sole  charge  of  twenty-eight  horses, 
and  bring  them  in  safe.  In  such  case,  of  course,  he 
has  to  be  more  on  foot  than  on  horseback. 

As  the  party  proceeded  but  slowly,  I rode  ahead 
with  my  two  companions,  and  came  to  several  little 
lakes  swarming  with  wild-fowl,  of  which  we  soon 
shot  several  for  our  supper.  At  the  close  of  the 
day  we  reached  another  post-station,  where  we 
were  to  pass  the  night.  As  the  jurte  was  filled 
with  men  and  cattle,  I was  glad  to  avoid  the  close- 
ness and  other  inconveniences  within,  and  passed  a 
very  comfortable  night  under  the  larch-trees,  with 
my  bearskiipfor  a mattress,  a covering  of  furs,  and 
a bright  blazing  fire.  The  next  morning  being  clear 
and  frosty,  280  Fahrenheit  felt  rather  cold  in  dress- 
ing, and  I thought,  with  something  of  a shudder,  of 
the  approaching  winter,  when  several  degrees  below 
freezing  would  be  called  by  the  natives  warm  weath- 
er. Man,  however,  is  a creature  formed  for  all  cli- 
mates, and  necessity  and  resolution  soon  reconcile 
him  to  anything.  Only  a few  weeks  later,  and  I 
myself  had  learned  to  think  eighteen  or  twenty  de- 
grees below  the  freezing  point  as  quite  mild. 

Tea  and  soup  being  prepared,  breakfast  was  eaten 
while  the  horses  were  loading,  and  we  resumed  our 
journey.  Our  way  led  over  a hill  covered  with 
pines,  and  I noticed  that  several  old  trees  near  the 
path  had  tufts  of  horsehair  fastened  to  their  branch- 
es, and  that  a number  of  sticks  were  stuck  in  the 
ground  near  them.  The  leading  postillion  here  got 
off  his  horse,  plucked  a few  hairs  from  his  mane,  and 


VALLEY  OF  MIORO. 


35 


fastened  them  to  one  of  the  branches  with  much  so- 
lemnity. He  told  us  that  this  was  a customary  offer- 
ing to  the  spirit  of  the  mountain  to  obtain  his  protec- 
tion during  the  journey,  and  that  foot-passengers 
placed  a stick  in  the  ground  with  the  same  intention. 
This  is  a general  practice  among  the  Jakuti,  and  is 
even  persevered  in  by  many  who  have  professed 
Christianity.  My  Jakuti  sang  almost  incessantly. 
Their  style  of  singing  is  monotonous,  and  rather  mel- 
ancholy, and  is  quite  characteristic  of  this  gloomy  and 
superstitious  people  : their  songs  describe  the  beau- 
ties of  the  landscape  in  terms  which  appeared  to  me 
not  a little  exaggerated,  and  which  I attributed  at 
first  to  a poetic  imagination  ; but  my  sergeant  in- 
formed me  it  was  customary  thus  to  try  fo  propitiate 
the  spirit  of  the  mountain  by  flattering  encomiums 
on  his  territory. 

We  made  this  day  sixty-three  wersts  with  one 
change  of  horses.  The  jurte  where  we  were  to 
sleep  had  been  so  highly  praised  for  its  roominess, 
convenience,  and,  above  all,  its  cleanliness,  that  I ex- 
pected an  excellent  night’s  rest ; but,  though  heavy 
rain  obliged  me  to  stay  within  it,  I found  in  this,  as 
in  every  other  case,  that  one  must  be  a native-born 
Jakut  to  find  the  atmosphere  of  such  a place  endu- 
rable. 

We  passed  the  next  day  numerous  little  lakes, 
which  gave  a peculiarly  pleasing  character  to  the 
landscape,  from  their  regular  oval  form,  their  high 
wooded  banks,  and  the  mirror-like  stillness  of  their 
sheltered  waters,  broken  only  by  the  plash  of  the 
startled  wild-fowl.  When  we  had  gone  about  forty 
wersts,  we  came  to  the  valley  of  Miörö  or  Mjure, 
which  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  that  I 
met  with  in  my  journey. 

This  valley  has  a tolerably  regular  oval  form,  and 
is  eight  wersts  in  diameter.  It  is  entirely  surround- 
ed by  a kind  of  wall,  which  is  in  some  places  ten 
fathoms  high,  and  must  have  been  at  some  former 


36 


Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


period  the  bank  of  a considerable  lake,  now  dry. 
There  are,  indeed,  still  in  the  lowest  part  of  the  val- 
ley .some  smalbbut  very  deep  lakes,  abounding  in 
fish.  This,  with  its  sheltered  situation  and  luxu- 
riant pasture,  induced  a rich  Tungusian  chief,  named 
Miörö,  to  settle  here  with  his  tribe.  They  were  sub- 
sequently, however,  driven  out  by  Jakuti  who  came 
from  the  south,  but  the  valley  still  preserves  the 
name.  It  is  one  of  the  most  populous  and  flour- 
ishing settlements  between  the  Lena  and  the  Aldan. 
Numerous  jurti,  some  approaching  to  the  dimen- 
sions of  Russian  houses,  two  good  churches  with 
towers,  the  bustle  of  a considerable  number  of  in- 
habitants, and  large  droves  of  cattle  and  horses, 
olfered  a striking  contrast  with  the  surrounding  des- 
ert. This  remarkable  settlement  owes  much  of  its 
prosperity  to  the  Jakutian  or  superintendent, 

who  has  built  and  endowed  the  two  churches  at 
his  own  expense.  Though  his  fortune,  it  is  said, 
amounts  to  half  a million  of  roubles,  he  has  in  no  re- 
spect altered  his  original  national  customs.  He  lives 
in  dijurte,  warms  himself  by  a true  Jakutian  tschuwal 
or  open  hearth,  drinks  his  kumys,"^  eats  horseflesh,  and 
in  everything  but  in  his  profession  of  the  Christian 
religion,  keeps  close  to  the  manners  of  his  fore- 
fathers. The  chief  branches  of  industry  in  this 
place  are  the  care  of  cattle,  the  chase,  the  fur-trade, 
and  the  breeding  of  horses. 

I will  notice  here,  in  passing,  a few  of  the  princi- 
pal characteristics  of  this  people.  Their  counte- 
nance and  language  fully  confirm  the  tradition  of 
their  Tartar  descent.!  They  are  properly  a pasto- 

* This  well-known  beverage,  prepared  from  mares’  milk,  is 
made  here  in  the  same  manner  as  in  Tartary  ; only  the  Jakuti 
have  happily  not  learned,  like  the  Tartars,  to  make  it  intoxi- 
cating. It  is  an  agreeable  beverage,  and  so  nourishing  that  a 
couple  of  large  skins  full  of  kumys,  hung  to  the  saddle,  are  often 
the  only  provisions  taken  for  a foraging  excursion  of  several 
days. 

t According  to*  this  tradition,  their  ancestor  was  a Tartar 


FOOD  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 


37 


ral  people,  whose  chief  riches  consist  in  the  num- 
ber of  their  horses  and  horned  cattle,  on  the  produce 
of  which  they  subsist  almost  entirely.  But  the 
abundance  of  fur-animals  in  their  vast  forests,  and 
the  profit  which  they  can  make  by  selling  their 
skins  to  the  Russians,  have  turned  much  of  their  at- 
tention to  the  chase,  of  which  they  are  often  pas- 
sionately fond,  and  which  they  follow  with  unwea- 
ried ardour  and  admirable  skill.  Accustomed  from 
infancy  to  the  privations  incident  to  their  severe 
climate,  they  disregard  hardships  of  every  kind. 
They  appear  absolutely  insensible  to  cold,  and  their 
endurance  of  hunger  is  such  as  to  be  almost  incred- 
ible. 

Their  food  consists  of  sour  cows’  milk,  mares’ 
milk,  of  beef,  and  of  horseflesh.  They  boil  their 
meat,  but  never  roast  or  bake  it,  and  bread  is  un- 
known among  them.  Fat  is  their  greatest  delicacy, 
and  they  eat  it  in  every  possible  shape  ; raw,  melted, 
fresh,  or  spoiled.  In  general,  indeed,  they  regard 
quantity  more  than  quality  in  their  food.  They 
grate  the  inner  bark  of  the  larch,  and  sometimes  of 
the  fir,  and  mix  it  with  fish,  a little  meal  and  milk, 
or,  in  preference,  with  fat,  and  make  it  into  a sort 
of  broth,  which  they  consume  in  large  quantities. 
They  prepare  from  cows’  milk  what  is  called  Jaku- 
tian  butter,  which  is  in  reality  more  like  cheese  or 
curd,  and  has  a sourish  taste : it  is  not  very  rich, 
and  is  a very  good  article  of  food  eaten  alone. 

Both  men  and  women  are  passionately  fond  of 
smoking  tobacco,  preferring  the  most  pungent  kinds, 
especially  the  Circassian.  They  swallow  the  smoke,, 
and  it  produces  a kind  of  stupefaction  closely  re- 
sembling intoxication  ; and  if  provoked  when  in  this 
state,  the  consequences  are  often  dangerous.  Bran- 

named  Sachalar,  who  came  from  his  own  country  on  the  other 
Bide  of  the  mountains  to  Kirenga  on  the  Lena,  where  he  settled 
and  married  a Tungusian  woman  ; the  Jakuti  still  call  them  • 
selves  Sachalary. 

D 


38  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


dy  is  also  used,  though  the  long  inland  carriage 
makes  it  extremely  dear.  The  Russian  traders  konw 
how  to  avail  themselves  of  these  tastes  in  their  traf- 
fic for  furs. 

The  Jakutian  habitations  are  of  two  kinds.  In 
summer  they  dwell  in  what  they  call  urossy^  which 
are  light  circular  tents  formed  of  poles  and  covered 
with  birch-bark,  which  they  strip  from  the  trees  in 
large  pieces.  These  are  first  softened  by  boiling, 
and  then  sewed  together;  and  the  outside  of  the  uros- 
sy,  from  the  colour  of  the  bark  being  white,  have  a 
very  pleasing  appearance,  and  at  a distance  resem- 
ble large  canvass  tents.  In  the  summer  they  wan- 
der about  with  these  in  search  of  the  finest  pastures  ; 
and  while  their  cattle  are  feeding,  they  themselves 
are  incessantly  employed  in  collecting  the  requisite 
store  of  winter  forage. 

At  the  approach  of  that  season  they  take  posses- 
sion of  their  wdiXmjurti.  These  are  cottages  form- 
ed of  thin  boards  in  the  shape  of  a truncated  pyra- 
mid, and  covered  thickly  on  the  outside  with  sticks, 
grass,  and  mud.  A couple  of  small  openings,  which 
admit  a scanty  light,  are  closed  in  winter  with  plates 
of  ice,  and  in  summer  with  fish-membrane  or  oiled 
paper.  The  floor  is  generally  of  beaten  mud,  and  is 
sunk  two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground ; but  people  in  better  circumstances  have  it 
raised  and  boarded.  There  are  wide  permanent 
benches  round  the  walls,  which  serve  for  seats  in 
the  daytime,  and  for  sleeping  on  at  night ; and  they 
are  generally  partitioned  ofl*  for  this  purpose,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  occupants.  In  the  mid- 
dle, but  rather  nearest  the  door,  is  the  tschuwal^  a 
kind  of  open  hearth  with  a chimney  up  to  the  roof, 
where  a fire  is  constantly  kept  burning.  Clothing, 
arms,  and  a few  household  articles  hang  round  the 
walls,  but  in  general  the  greatest  disorder  and  want 
of  cleanliness  prevail. 

Outside  there  are  usually  sheds  for  the  cows. 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  JAKUTI. 


39 


which  in  winter  are  placed  under  cover  and  fed  with 
hay,  and  in  extreme  cold  weather  are  even  brought 
into  the  jurte ; whereas  the  horses  are  left  to  shift 
for  themselves  as  well  as  they  can,  by  scraping 
away  the  snow  to  get  at  the  withered  autumn  grass. 
It  is  only  when  they  are  about  to  make  a journey 
that  they  are  given  hay  for  a few  days  previously. 

The  above-described  habitations,  though  rude,  are 
better  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  people  than  those 
built  after  the  Russian  fashion,  a few  of  which  are 
to  be  seen.  In  the  construction  of  the  jurti  small 
trees  may  be  used  instead  of  boards,  which  is  a 
great  convenience  ; while  the  open  fire  in  the  tschu- 
wal,  by  keeping  up  a continual  change  of  air,  is  far 
more  conducive  to  health  than  the  close  stove. 

Every  tribe  of  .lakuti  is  divided  into  several  nasel- 
ji,  each  of  which  is  under  a knasez  or  chief,  by 
whom  minor  disputes,  &c.,  are  settled.  More  seri 
ous  cases  go  before  the  golowa  or  superintendent  of 
the  лѵЬоІе  tribe,  who  is  elected  from  among  the  kna- 
sez, The  people  often  call  in  a schaman  or  conjuror, 
and  have  recourse  to  his  incantations  to  recover  a 
strayed  cow,  to  cure  a sick  person,  or  to  obtain  good 
weather  for  a journey,  «fee.,  «fee.  The  Jakuti  have 
almost  all  been  baptized  ; but,  though  a part  of  the 
New  Testament,  the  Ten  Commandments,  and  sev- 
eral of  the  canons  of  the  Church,  have  been  trans- 
lated into  their  language,  as  yet  the  greater  number 
have  no  idea  of  the  principles  and  doctrines  of 
Christianity ; and  their  schamans  and  the  supersti- 
tions of  heathenism  still  retain  their  hold  upon  their 
minds.  As  a nation  they  are  unsocial,  litigious,  and 
vindictive.  An  injury  received  by  one  of  them  is 
very  rarely  forgotten,  and,  if  he  cannot  revenge  it 
himself,  he  will  leave  the  feud  to  his  son.  Their 
passion  for  litigation  is  excessive  : they  will  fre- 
quently undertake  difficult  and  expensive  journeys, 
in  a cause  where  perhaps  the  matter  in  dispute  is 
not  of  the  value  of  a rouble.  Their  unsocial  dispo- 


40  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


sition,  which  leads  them  to  prefer  settling  by  single 
families  at  a distance  from  each  other,  is  strikingly 
contrasted  with  the  cheerful  and  ready  hospitality 
which  they  show  to  strangers.  They  very  seldom 
settle  in  communities,  and  it  is  only  along  the  route 
from  Jakuzk  to  the  Aldan,  where  the  country  is 
more  populous,  that  such  settlements  are  now  and 
then  to  be  met  with ; but  beyond  the  Werchojansk 
chain,  the  solitary  jurti  are  often  hundreds  of  worsts 
apart,  so  that  the  nearest  neighbours  may  not  see 
each  other  for  years.  Such  distances  are  far  great- 
er than  can  be  required  on  account  of  pasture,  and 
are  rather  to  be  ascribed  to  the  disposition  which 
leads  them  to  seek  solitude,  and  to  avoid  all  social 
intercourse. 

As  soon  as  I had  arrived  at  Miörö  the  golowa  came 
to  see  me,  accompanied  by  a kndsez  and  two  clerks. 
They  complained  much  of  being  oppressed  Ьз^"  the 
Cossacks  from  Jakuzk.  I tried  to  pacif3"  them  by 
telling  them  of  the  new  regulations  by  which  the 
Cossacks  were  to  be  given  lands  to  cultivate,  which 
it  was  to  be  hoped  would  put  a stop  to  such  irregu- 
larities. We  resumed  our  journey  on  the  15th,  and 
though  the  roads  were  bad,  and  the  horses  sank  up 
to  their  necks  at  one  place  in  a morass,  accomplish- 
ed ninety  wersts,  and  slept  at  Aldanskaja,  half  a 
werst  from  the  Aldan,  which  falls  into  the  Lena 
ninety  wersts  farther  on.  There  are  no  settlements 
between  this  place  and  Baralas,  400  wersts  distant ; 
the  intervening  tract  being  desert  and  mountainous, 
with  many  morasses,  on  which  account  travellers 
usually  wait  for  dry  or  frosty  w^eather  to  enable 
them  to  cross  it.  They  also  select  the  strongest 
horses  they  can  procure,  and  take  spare  ones  to  re- 
place those  which  may  give  out  on  the  way.  We 
were  favoured  by  the  weather,  which  was  frosty, 
and  were  therefore  detained  only  one  day  to  pro- 
cure the  necessary  provisions.  The  district  we  had 
traversed  from  the  Lena  to  the  Aldan  is  character- 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  ALDAN. 


41 


ized  by  elevations  forming  parallel  ridges  like  waves, 
from  east  to  west.  Between  the  hills  there  are 
numberless  caldron-like  hollows,  forming  marshy 
valleys  on  the  north  side,  and  lakes  on  the  south 
side.  The  heights  of  land  are  generally  well  wood- 
ed with  larch ; the  soil  is  clay  mixed  with  sand  ; 
and  the  northern  declivities  appeared  to  me  much 
steeper  than  the  southern. 

The  Aldan  is  here  one  worst  and  a half  in  breadth ; 
its  current  is  rapid,  and  it  flows  in  a westerly  direc- 
tion. We  saw  in  the  distance,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  a range  of  peaked  mountains  covered  with 
snow. 

On  the  17th  we  were  ferried  across  the  river, 
with  our  horses  and  luggage,  in  a flat-bottomed 
boat,  which  sprung  aleak  when  half  way  over;  and, 
in  spite  of  baling  with  caps  and  hats,  we  must  have 
sunk  but  for  a little  island,  on  which  we  landed,  and 
stopped  the  hole  with  dry  moss  and  grass.  That^ 
night  we  pitched  our  little  travelling  tent  of  tanned 
reindeer  leather. 

We  proceeded,  at  break  of  day  on  the  18th,  through 
a desert  and  marshy  district,  and,  on  coming  to  some 
tolerable  pasture,  it  was  thought  advisable  to  halt, 
that  the  horses  might  avail  themselves  of  it,  as  it 
was  the  last  we  should  meet  with  for  a consider- 
able distance.  Meanwhile,  as  the  snow  was  fall- 
ing fast,  we  were  glad  to  cluster  round  a little  fire 
under  our  tent,  and  enjoy  a cup  of  tea,  our  chief  re- 
freshment. The  next  day  was  a laborious  one  : 
after  crossing  the  marshes  we  had  to  make  our 
way  through  a thick  wood  of  larch,  poplars,  and 
willows,  to  the  only  spot  where  the  Tukulan  could 
be  forded.  We  pitched  our  tent  on  its  wild  shores. 
Before  us  were  the  snowy  mountains,  behind  us  the 
forest,  and  the  silence  around  was  only  broken  by 
the  loud  rushing  noise  of  the  torrent.  We  crossed 
early  in  the  morning  of  the  20th,  the  current  being 
strong,  and  the  water  up  to  our  saddles  ; but  the 


42  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

bottom  was  hard,  and  we  got  safely  over,  though 
thoroughly  welted.  We  had  to  pass  other  streams 
less  broad,  but  equally  rapid.  The  valley  of  one  of 
these  was  so  strewed  with  trunks  of  trees  and  mass- 
es of  rock,  brought  down  by  the  torrent  when  swol- 
len by  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  spring,  that  our 
horses  made  their  way  with  much  difficulty.  Win- 
ter seemed  now  to  have  commenced  in  earnest : the 
thermometer  was  at  21^,  and  the  ground  was  cover- 
ed with  snow ; but  we  were  rather  pleased  with  this 
foretaste  of  a nomade  winter  life.  For  our  bivouac 
during  the  night  we  chose  a clear  spot  of  ground 
between  high  trees,  which  afforded  some  protection 
from  the  weather ; and,  sweeping  away  the  snow, 
we  dragged  to  the  place  the  trunk  of  a fallen  tree, 
which  formed  the  foundation  of  a blazing  fire  that 
sent  its  light  far  and  near.  Our  guides  soon  strew- 
ed the  ground  about  the  fire  with  a quantity  of  dry 
Brushwood,  on  which  they  placed  a layer  of  the 
green  branches  of  the  dwarf  cedar.  On  this  fra- 
grant floor  we  pitched  our  three  little  tents,  forming 
three  sides  of  a square  round  the  fire,  while  our 
guides  thought  the  snowy  ground  on  the  fourth  side 
quite  good  enough  for  them,  and  used  their  saddles 
for  pillows.  During  the  time  we  were  engaged  in 
fixing  the  tents,  they  unloaded  the  horses,  rubbed 
them  thoroughly  down,  and  fastened  them  to  the 
trees,  that  they  might  not  eat  the  snow  or  damp 
grass  till  they  were  cool. 

These  matters  having  been  arranged,  the  kettle 
was  filled,  tea  and  soup  were  prepared,  and  our  lit- 
tle country  pipes  lighted.  After  supper  our  guides 
entertained  us  with  relating  wonderful  hunting  sto- 
ries and  travelling  adventures.  One  of  them  told  of 
a Cossack  who  had  killed  three  bears  at  the  same 
time — one  with  his  knife,  a second  with  his  hatchet, 
and  the  third  with  a noose ; and  another  dilated  on 
the  enormous  strength  of  the  Siberian  elk,  which  he 
affirmed  could  tear  up  large  trees  by  the  roots  while 


SUDDEN  FLOODS. 


43 


at  full  speed.  Both  the  Jakuti  and  Russians  in  this 
country  seem  to  have  no  higher  pleasure  than  tell- 
ing and  hearing  stories  of  this  kind.  It  was  late 
before  we  crept  under  our  tents,  where  we  slept 
soundly  and  comfortably  in  our  bearskins  and  furs. 
Before  lying  down  to  rest,  the  guides  set  their 
horses  at  liberty,  to  seek  for  grass  under  the  snow.* 

Travellers  do  not  always  enjoy  such  undisturbed 
repose  at  a place  of  this  kind.  In  spring  and  early 
in  the  summer  the  melting  of  the  snow  often  causes 
such  sudden  floods,  that  it  is  considered  a prudent 
precaution  to  select  one’s  sleeping-place  near  some 
large  tree,  which  will  afford  a convenient  retreat  in 
case  of  such  an  accident. 

As  we  approached  the  source  of  the  Tukulan  the 
valley  became  gradually  narrower,  the  rocks  steep- 
er, and  the  trees  more  thinly  scattered,  until  they 
disappeared  entirely.  The  most  common  trees 
along  the  side  of  the  river  had  been  willows  and  a 
remarkably  large  and  lofty  species  of  poplar ; birch 
and  fir  occupied  the  drier  and  more  stony  grounds, 
and  the  dwarf  cedar  covered  the  slopes  of  the 
mountains.  Its  small  but  well-flavoured  berries  at- 
tract numbers  of  black  bears  and  squirrels.  Multi- 
tudes of  grouse  breed  in  the  thick  larch  and  pine 
woods. 

On  the  22d  we  slept  at  the  foot  of  the  mount- 

* The  nature  of  these  northern  horses  seems  admirably  suit- 
ed to  the  climate.  They  are  of  middle  size,  have  a short,  thick 
neck,  and  are  very  strong-boned  in  proportion  to  their  size. 
Most  of  them  are  of  a grayish  colour;  they  have  very  long, 
rough  hair,  and,  like  the  other  quadrupeds  of  this  region,  change 
their  coats  in  the  middle  of  summer.  They  perform  most  labori- 
ous journeys,  often  of  three  months’ duration,  with  no  other  food 
than  the  half-withered  grass,  which  they  get  at  by  scraping  away 
the  snow  with  their  hoofs,  and  yet  they  are  always  in  good  con- 
dition. It  is  remarkable  that  they  keep  their  teeth  sound  and 
unworn  to  old  age.  May  not  this  be  attributed  to  their  never 
having  hard  corn,  and  always  feeding  upon  grass  ? They  are 
much  longer  lived  than  our  horses,  and  are  usually  serviceable 
. for  thirty  years. 


44  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


ains,  under  the  shelter  of  an  overhanging  rock, 
there  being  no  trees.  At  daybreak  the  thermometer 
was  — 4°.  We  were  now  to  cros  the  Werchojansk, 
which  is  unquestionably  the  most  difficult  and  dan- 
gerous part  of  the  whole  road  from  Jakuzk  to  the 
Kolyma.  We  had  to  climb  steep  precipices,  where, 
from  the  giving  way  of  the  snow,  we  were  often  in 
danger  of  falling  to  the  bottom  ; and,  when  we  came 
to  hollows  and  narrow  ravines,  we  had  great  labour 
in  clearing  away  the  snow  sufficiently  to  force  a 
passage. 

Our  guides  told  us  that  the  gusts  of  wind  from  the 
valleys  were  sometimes  so  sudden  and  violent,  that 
whole  parties  had  been  precipitated  by  them  into 
the  abysses,  along  the  margin  of  which  the  path 
ran.  We  were  particularly  favoured  by  the  weath- 
er. The  sky  was  cloudless,  and,  when  we  were  at 
the  summit  of  the  pass,*  the  ice-coated  rocks  around 
sparkled  in  the  beams  of  the  noonday  sun  as  if 
studded  with  the  most  brilliant  diamonds.  Below 
us,  to  the  north,  opened  the  valley  of  the  Jana, 
which  flows  into  the  Polar  Sea,  while  bluff  rocks 
shut  in  our  prospect  to  the  south : it  was  indeed  a 
wild  scene. 

This  range  divides  the  tributaries  of  the  Lena 
from  those  of  the  Jana : it  consists  chiefly  of  pure 
black  slate,  and  is  steeper  on  the  south  side  than  on 
the  north.  It  is  in  latitude  64^  20^  according  to  our 
observations,  and  forms  a remarkable  line  of  separ- 
ation in  respect  to  vegetation.  Neither  pines,  fir- 
trees,  nor  aspens  (eberaschen)^  which  last  had  been 
occasionally  met  with  hitherto,  are  found  to  the 
north  of  it.  Larches,  poplars,  birches,  and  willows 
continue  as  far  as  68^  ; indeed,  the  latter  grow  in 

* The  highest  part  of  the  pass  is,  according  to  barometrical 
measurements  by  Lieutenant  Anjou,  2100  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  nearest  point  on  the  Tukulan,  thirty  vvrersts  distant.  The 
summits  above  us  seemed  to  be  800  or  1000  feet  higher  than  the 


VALLEY  OF  THE  JANA. 


45 


sheltered  places  even  near  the  Omolon  and  the 
Aniuj  rivers. 

Some  Tungusi,  whom  we  met  farther  on,  assured 
us  that  a fish  known  here  by  the  name  of  charjus 
{salmo  thymallus)  was  abundant  in  the  lake  in  which 
the  Jana  takes  its  rise. 

There  is  scarcely  a worse  route  in  Siberia  (with 
the  exception  of  dangerous  mountain-passes)  than 
that  from  the  Aldan  to  this  place,  across  morasses, 
forests,  torrents,  and  rocks,  and  entirely  without 
shelter ; whereas,  on  the  other  side  of  these  hills, 
the  path  has  been  conducted  over  the  most  favoura- 
ble ground,  avoiding  the  worst  morasses,  and  has 
been,  in  places,  widened  or  otherwise  improved. 
The  route  is,  notwithstanding,  one  of  some  impor- 
tance, as  salt  and  provisions  have  to  be  sent  by  it 
yearly  to  the  settlements  on  the  Jana  and  Indigirka. 
Another  great  advantage  on  the  northern  side  con- 
sists in  the  erection,  at  certain  intervals,  of  huts, 
built  of  rough  logs,  and  called  powarni,  or  cooking- 
houses.  There  is  no  regular  fireplace  in  them,  but 
a sort  of  hearth,  and  an  opening  in  the  roof  serves 
to  let  out  the  smoke  : the  traveller  through  these 
wild  wastes  at  night,  or  when  overtaken  by  a snow- 
storm, knows  how  to  value  this  rude  shelter. 

The  valley  of  the  Jana  has  a northern  direction, 
and  is  bounded  to  the  east  and  west  by  peaked 
mountains,  which  connect  to  the  south  with  the 
Werchojansk  range,  and  to  the  north  gradually  sink 
into  lower  hills,  scattered  over  a marshy  plain.  An- 
other chain  of  some  importance  extends  from  this 
place  in  a W.N.W.  direction  towards  the  Polar  Sea, 
and  divides  the  valleys  of  the  Lena  and  Jana.  It  is 
called  the  Orulganski  Chain,  and  consists,  like  all 
the  heights  I had  hitherto  seen,  of  clay  slate,  of 
which  the  strata  run  W.N.W.,  sloping  alternately 
to  the  east  and  to  the  west. 

We  proceeded  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Jana,  and 
on  the  25th,  near  one  of  the  above-rae'ntioned  po- 


46  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

warni^  we  came  upon  a little  hut  formed  of  branches 
of  trees,  which  at  first  we  thought  could  not  be  in^ 
habited.  To  our  astonishment,  however,  there  came 
out  of  it  a Tungusian,  who  had  settled  in  this  desert 
for  the  purpose  of  hunting  reindeer,  with  his  daugh- 
ter and  a couple  of  dogs.  One  must  have  known 
the  climate,  and  seen  the  country  and  the  half-trans- 
parent hut,  to  imagine  the  situation  of  these  two 
persons.  The  poor  girl  was  most  to  be  pitied : often 
alone  for  days  together,  while  her  father  was  absent 
in  pursuit  of  game,  in  this  wretched  abode,  which 
could  scarcely  afford  sufficient  shelter  from  the  wind 
and  rain  even  in  summer,  thus  helplessly  exposed  in 
entire  solitude  to  the  most  intense  cold,  frequently 
to  hunger,  and  in  entire  inactivity.  This  Tungusian 
was  one  of  those  who,  having  had  the  misfortune  to 
lose  their  tame  reindeer,  are  obliged  to  separate 
from  the  rest  of  their  tribe,  and  to  seek  subsistence 
by  themselves  in  the  wilderness.  They  are  called 
by  their  countrymen  “ fortune-hunters  few  of  them 
long  survive  the  continued  conflict  with  cold,  hunger, 
and  dangers  of  every  description.  The  case  of 
these  unhappy  men,  who  are  frequently  met  with 
in  the  forests,  has  attracted  the  attention  of  the 
government,  which  has  recently  taken  measures  for 
settling  them  along  the  banks  of  the  great  rivers, 
and  providing  them  with  the  means  of  obtaining 
subsistence  by  fishing. 

On  the  26th  of  September  we  reached  the  first 
post-station,  called  Baralas.*  It  is  157  wersts  from 
the  mountains  we  had  passed,  and  is,  according  to 
our  observations,  in  latitude  65°  5T.  We  were  de- 
lighted to  find  here  a good,  roomy  prepared  for 
travellers,  and  kept  in  excellent  order.  Near  the 
door  were  pieces  of  transparent  ice  ranged  along  on 
clean  snow,  ready  for  the  soup  or  the  teakettle. 
The  interior  was  well  swept,  clean  hay  was  laid  on 


Barglas  in  the  map. 


ENTERTAINMENT  AT  A JURTE. 


47 


the  benches  round  the  walls,  and  a bright  fire  was 
blazing  on  the  hearth.  The  windows  were  closed 
with  smooth,  transparent  panes  of  ice,  carefully  ce- 
mented with  the  same  convenient  material.  After 
having  been  nine  days  and  nights  in  the  open  air,  in 
snow  and  cold,  afraid  to  take  olf  our  clothes,  or  even 
to  wash  ourselves,  lest  we  should  be  frostbitten,  we 
thought  ourselves  in  a palace,  and  a thorough  toilet 
seemed  to  give  us  new  life.  Our  worthy  host,  for 
want  of  personal  experience,  appeared  hardly  able 
to  appreciate  our  hearty  thanks  for  so  great  an  en- 
joyment. He  then  placed  before  us  a good  meal  of 
Siberian  delicacies,  such  as  frozen  Jakutian  butter 
without  salt,  struganina^  or  thin  slices  of  frozen  fish, 
and,  lastly,  fresh  raw  reindeer  marrow.  We  were 
too  well  pleased  with  our  entertainer  to  show  any 
dislike  to  his  fare.  In  the  sequel  we  grew  more  used 
to  such  food ; and,  indeed,  I must  own  thai  1 now 
prefer  fresh  struganina  before  it  thaws,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  to  dressed  fish. 

On  the  27th  we  left  Baralas  for  the  next  station, 
Tabalog,  300  worsts  distant.  W’e  quitted  the  ordi- 
nary postroad,  and  took  one  which  the  trading  car- 
avans follow,  and  which  is  nearly  100  wersts  short- 
er. About  twenty  wersts  beyond  Baralas  we  had 
to  cross  the  Jana,  which  is  here  140  yards  broad. 
The  ice  was  as  smooth  as  a mirror,  and  our  horses, 
not  being  rough-shod,  could  not  get  on,  even  when 
their  loads  were  taken  off.  The  guides  were  there- 
fore obliged  to  ride  back  to  Baralas  to  fetch  some 
sacks  of  ashes  and  sand  to  strew  on  the  ice  to 
make  it  passable. 

Along  the  flat  banks  of  the  Jana,  and  under  shel- 
ter of  the  hills,  there  are  many  larch  and  birch-trees 
on  the  route  we  followed,  but  they  are  stunted  in 
their  growth. 

The  country  offers  very  little  variety : on  the 
plain  there  are  many  lakes,  connected  with  each 
other  by  streams  of  various  sizes.  On  the  3d  of 


48  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

October  we  came  to  the  station  of  Tabalog,  which  is 
surrounded  by  lakes  well  supplied  with  fish,  and  by 
good  pasturages.  We  also  found  here  a comforta- 
ble jurte,  having  had  no  other  shelter  for  the  night 
since  we  left  Baralas  than  occasional  uninhabited 
and  half-ruined  huts. 

To  my  great  joy,  we  met  here  Dr.  Tomaschewski, 
who  was  returning  (тисЬЛо  his  own  satisfaction) 
from  a three  years’  tour  of  duty  at  Kolymsk. 

To  the  eastward  we  saw  a range  of  serrated  hills 
running  north  and  south,  with  little  conical  points 
looking  like  excrescences.  These  hills  form  the  di- 
viding ridge  between  the  Avaters  of  the  Jana  and  the 
Indigirka.  At  eighty-five  worsts  from  Tabalog  we 
passed  through  a valley  between  these  hills.  I had 
no  opportunity  of  ascertaining  their  composition,  but 
from  the  numerous  fragments  of  granite,  consisting 
of  whife  feldspar,  mica,  and  quartz,  which  we  met 
with,  I conclude  they  are  of  that  nature.  We  af- 
terward came  to  a large  circular  valley,  still  called 
the  Valley  of  Death,  from  a tradition  that,  during  the 
conquest  of  Siberia,  a numerous  tribe  of  reindeer 
Tungusi  retreated  to  this  place,  where  they  made  a 
valiant  stand  against  their  pursuers,  which  ended  in 
the  whole  horde  being  slain.  A singular  accident 
happened  to  me  here  : I had  quitted  the  party  to 
gain  a better  view  of  the  country,  and  was  rejoining 
it  by  what  I thought  a much  straighter  and  shorter 
path,  when,  in  crossing  a frozen  stream,  the  ice  in 
the  middle  gave  way : m}^  horse  immediately  disap- 
peared, while  I just  managed  to  spring  from  his  back 
to  the  ice,  and  reached  the  bank  in  safety.  I con- 
cluded the  animal  was  drowned ; but  our  native 
guides,  who  had  seen  the  accident  at  a distance, 
came  running  to  my  aid,  and  laughingly  assured  me 
I should  find  him  again  both  safe  and  dry.  They 
immediately  went  to  work  to  enlarge  the  opening, 
and  soon  brought  out  the  horse,  very  little  the  лvorse 
for  his  fall.  It  often  happens  in  this  country  that, 


GULANGINA  RIVER. 


49 


after  the  surface  of  the  stream  freezes,  nearly  all 
the  water  beneath  runs  off,  leaving  an  empty  space, 
which  in  this  case  was  about  six  or  seven  feet  in 
depth.  Unluckily,  my  saddle-bags  had  broken  open 
in  the  fall,  and  I lost  my  store  of  tea,  sugar,  and  rum : 
a serious  loss  in  such  a region. 

Proceeding  on  our  route  we  came  to  another  val« 
ley,  the  sides  of  which,  wherever  they  were  clear 
from  snow,  appeared  to  consist  chiefly  of  slate.  At 
two  places,  where  I was  able  to  observe  them  cor- 
rectly, the  strata  ran  from  west  by  north  to  east  by 
south,  with  a dip  from  north  by  east  to  south  by 
west,  at  an  angle  of  30°.  Large  fragments  of  con- 
glomerate, also  consisting  chiefly  of  slate  and  gran- 
ite, were  lying  in  the  valley. 

We  came  next  to  a stream  with  picturesque  banks. 
The  singularly  broken  forms  of  the  lofty  walls  of 
rock  on  either  side  look  like  the  ruined  towers  and 
battlements  of  a feudal  castle.  We  followed  this 
stream  until  it  conducted  us  to  a plain,  after  cross- 
ing which  we  came  to  another  range  of  saddle- 
shaped  hills,  consisting  also  of  black  slate.  I was 
struck  by  the  varied  forms  of  the  strata : some  were 
concentric,  others  diverged  obliquely  in  various  di- 
rections. 

By  following  the  course  of  the  Gulangina,  which 
winds  among  the  hills,  it  conducted  us  to  the  Indi- 
girka. We  saw  a number  of  wild  sheep,  called  here 
argaly  {capra  ammon) : they  are  also  to  be  met  with 
in  the  Werchojansk  Mountains. 

At  midnight  on  the  10th  of  October  we  reached 
the  little  town  of  Saschiwersk,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Indigirka,  415  wersts  from  Tabalog.  During  the 
journey  the  cold  had  never  been  less  than — 4°,  and 
we  often  had  it — 22°.  We  had  passed  our  nights  in 
ruined  deserted  cottages,  and  in  the  powarni.  The 
plains  were  still  bare  of  snow,  chiefly  from  the  ef- 
fect of  the  constant  winds. 

In  1786,  a short  time  previous  to  the  expedition 
E 


50  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


of  Captain  Billings,  Saschiwersk,  which  before  only 
consisted  of  a few  huts,  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  a 
district  town  by  the  Empress  Catharine  II.  The 
presence  of  the  authorities  gave  to  it  a temporary 
importance,  but  their  subsequent  withdrawal  caused 
it  to  fall  back  to  its  original  insignificance.  It  has 
still  a good  church,  and  four  or  five  cottages  inhab- 
ited by  the  priest  and  his  brother,  the  native  over- 
seer of  the  post-station,  and  two  Russian  families. 
But,  poor  as  this  place  is,  it  has  one  feature  which 
renders  it  well  deserving  of  notice,  in  the  person  of 
the  clergyman,  who  is  known  far  and  wide  by  the 
name  of  Father  Michel.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  he 
was  eighty-seven  years  of  age,  and  had  passed  about 
sixty  years  here  as  deacon  and  priest,  during  which 
time  he  has  not  only  baptized  15,000  Jakuti,  Tun- 
gusi,  and  Jukahiri,  but  has  really  made  them  ac- 
quainted with  the  leading  truths  of  Christianity; 
and  the  fruits  of  his  doctrine,  his  example,  and  his 
counsels  are  visible  in  their  great  moral  improve- 
ment. Such  is  the  zeal  of  this  truly  venerable  man 
for  the  extension  of  the  Gospel  among  the  inhabi- 
tants of  these  snowy  wastes,  that  neither  his  great 
age,  nor  the  severity  of  the  climate,  nor  the  count- 
less other  difficulties  of  the  country,  prevent  his 
still  riding  above  2000  wersts  a year,  in  order  to 
baptize  the  newborn  children  of  his  widely-scat- 
tered flock,  and  to  perform  the  other  duties  of  his 
sacred  calling,  as  well  as  to  assist  his  people  in 
every  way  he  can,  as  minister,  teacher,  friend,  and 
adviser,  and  even  as  physician.  Yet  he  sometimes 
finds  time  and  strength  to  go  to  the  neighbouring 
hills  to  shoot  argali  and  other  game  ; and  has  be- 
stowed so  much  pains  and  skill  on  his  little  garden 
that  he  has  reared  cabbages,  turnips,  and  radishes. 
He  placed  before  us  sourkrout  soup  and  fresh- 
baked  rye  bread,  and  his  pleasure  in  seeing  us  en- 
joy these  excellent  and  long-untasted  national  dishes 
was  at  least  as  great  as  our  own.  He  gave  us  also 


FATHER  MICHEL. 


51 


another  kind  of  bread  of  his  own  invention.  It  is 
' made  of  dried  fish  grated  to  a fine  powder,  in  which 
state  it  will  keep  a long  time  if  not  allowed  to  get 
damp  ; and  mixed  with  a small  quantity  of  meal,  it 
makes  a well-tasted  bread. 

There  is  much  grass  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  a 
number  of  small  lakes  well  supplied  with  fish,  par- 
ticularly with  sigi  schnapel  (salmo  cavaretus)  and 
tschiri^  another  species  of  the  same  genus.  The 
population  consists  chiefly  of  Jakuti,  who  during  the 
summer  tend  their  numerous  horses  and  their  few 
cattle  in  the  best  pastures,  employing  themselves  at 
the  same  time  in  collecting  a store  of  hay  for  the 
winter.  When  autumn  arrives  they  move  to  the 
river,  and  devote  themselves  almost  entirely  to  fish- 
ing, the  chase  being  quite  a subordinate  employ- 
ment. Those  who  have  neither  cattle  nor  horses 
live  entirely  by  fishing,  and  make  use  of  dogs  with 
light  sledges  to  draw  their  fish  and  their  firewood 
home.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  there  is 
a slate  rock  150  fathoms  high;  its  horizontal  black 
strata  alternate  with  thicker  gray  ones,  interspersed 
with  selenite ; and  veins  of  white  selenite  intersect 
its  whole  height. 

The  government  stores  of  salt  and  meal  having 
passed  this  way  to  Kolymsk  a short  time  before  we 
arrived,  a hundred  horses  had  been  required  for  their 
transport,  and  this  obliged  us  to  wait  two  days  be-, 
fore  we  could  procure  any. 

On  the  13th  we  took  leave  of  Father  Michel,  who 
at  parting  gave  us  his  blessing,  and  some  little  arti- 
cles for  the  road.  The  two  days  which  1 passed  in 
his  hospitable  cottage  are  among  the  few  bright 
points  of  remembrance  in  this  dreary  journey. 

We  proceeded  across  morasses  covered  with 
stunted  trees,  and  here  and  there  a pasture,  and  a 
hut  where  we  could  pass  the  night,  until  we  came 
to  the  large-  Lake  of  Orinkino.  Here  we  entered 
the  Kolymsk  district,  and  from  this  point  to  the  Ala- 


52  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

sej  River,  a distance  of  250  wersts,  the  country  is 
entirely  uninhabited,  consisting  chiefly  of  morasses, 
which  are  impassable  in  summer,  and  which  afford 
no  food  either  for  men  or  cattle.  These  badarany^ 
as  they  are  called,  are  never  thoroughly  dry.  After 
a continuance  of  dry  weather  in  summer,  there  forms 
over  them  a crust,  which,  like  thin  ice,  will  support 
a light  weight,  but  gives  way  with  a somewhat 
heavier  one.  The  horses  of  such  travellers  as  are 
obliged  to  pass  them  in  summer  break  in  this  way 
through  the  crust,  but  do  not  sink  very  deep,  being 
brought  up  by  the  substratum  of  perpetually  frozen 
earth  not  far  below  the  surface.  There  can  scarce- 
ly be  anything  more  desolate  than  the  appearance 
of  these  badardny^  covered  only  with  half-withered 
moss,  and  bearing  here  and  there,  on  the  higher 
spots,  a few  miserable  larch-bushes,  which  just  show 
themselves  above  the  ground.  The  winter  is,  in- 
deed, the  only  season  when  these  morasses  are 
properly  passable  ; and  then,  although  the  ground 
is  hard  and  safe,  the  traveller  on  these  vast  unshel- 
tered wastes  is  exposed  to  the  most  violent  tem- 
pests and  snowstorms,  from  which  he  can  only 
seek  refuge  in  a few  widely-scattered  and  miserably- 
built  powarni,  in  which  he  runs  a risk  of  being  suf- 
focated by  the  smoke. 

We  came  next  to  the  low  range  of  wooded  hills 
called  the  Alasej  Range,  which  separates  the  waters 
of  that  river  from  those  of  the  Indigirka.  In  the 
streams  among  these  hills  there  is  much  native  iron 
found:  it  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  the  Jakuti 
work  it  into  knives,  hatchets,  &c.  Between  these 
hills  and  the  Kolyma,  lakes  and  pasture-ground  reap- 
pear, and  a few  solitary  inhabited  jurii  are  met  with, 
becoming  more  numerous  as  the  Kolyma  is  ap- 
proached. 

On  the  21st  of  October,  to  our  great  pleasure,  we 
saw  above  the  trees  a column  of  reddish  smoke,  pro- 
ceeding from  the  Sardach  station,  where  we  hoped 


ARRIVAL  AT  SREDNE  KOLYMSK. 


53 


to  rest  a little,  after  an  eight  days’  laborious  jour- 
ney, without  any  shelter,  and  with  a temperature 
from  — 60  to  — 220. 

The  comfort  of  the  house  surpassed  our  highest 
expectations.  There  was  one  room  for  ourselves, 
and  another  for  our  guides  ; a bath-room,  a store- 
room, an  outer  court,  long  sheds  for  the  protection 
of  the  government  stores  on  their  way  to  Kolymsk, 
a small  summer-house,  and  a sundial ; stables  for 
horses  and  cattle  at  a short  distance  from  the  house, 
and  the  whole  enclosed  by  a neat  palisade  fence, 
running  down  to  a little  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  which  there  is  a thick  larch- 
grove.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  pleasure  we 
experienced  at  the  sight  of  this  little  settlement, 
bearing  so  many  marks  of  the  care  and  taste  of  civ- 
ilized man.  I received  here  the  first  tidings  of  M. 
Matiuschkin’s  arrival  at  Kolymsk,  and  of  his  pro- 
ceedings there. 

From  Sardach  to  Sredne  Kolymsk  the  distance 
is  250  wersts  ; there  are  three  well-provided  post- 
stations on  the  way,  and  the  road  itself  is  rendered 
remarkably  agreeable  for  these  regions  by  several 
lakes,  dense  groves  of  larch,  fine  willow-bushes,  and, 
generally,  a more  flourishing  and  varied  vegetation. 
The  change  is  more  decidedly  marked  after  passing 
a little  ridge  of  hills  which  divides  the  waters  of  the 
Alasej  from  those  of  the  Kolyma.  It  was  here  that, 
in  crossing  a lake,  I first  saw  a herd  of  wild  reindeer. 
They  shot  almost  close  by  me,  pursued  by  two 
wolves,  who  succeeded  in  pulling  down  one  of  them. 

It  was  too  dark  to  distinguish  objects  when  we 
reached  the  banks  of  the  Kolyma  on  the  evening  of 
the  25th  of  October,  but  the  ascending  smoke  min- 
gled with  sparks,  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and  the 
occasional  glimmering  of  a lamp  through  an  ice 
window,  told  us  that  we  were  approaching  Sredne- 
Kolymsk,  the  church-tower  of  which  we  had  before 
seen  at  a considerable  distance.  This  is  the  usual 
E 2 


51  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

residence  of  the  authorities  of  the  district,  and  pos- 
sesses a new  and  well-built  church  and  thirteen 
houses.  In  summer  most  of  these  are  empty,  their 
owners  being  absent  for  the  chase,  fishing,  or  some 
other  employment.  At  the  time  we  arrived  the 
place  was  particularly  animated,  as  the  inhabitants 
were  engaged  in  constructing  a dam  across  the  riv- 
er, to  which  they  were  fastening  baskets,  &c.,  to 
catch  the  fish  in  ascending  the  stream.  Great  quan- 
tities were  formerly  thus  taken,  but  they  have  so  di- 
minished in  number  the  last  few  years  that  the  peo- 
ple have  been  obliged  to  get  rid  of  most  of  their 
dogs  for  want  of  food  for  them,  and  to  have  re- 
course to  horses  and  cattle.  They  are,  indeed,  giv- 
ing great  attention  to  this  last  object,  but  the  short- 
ness of  the  summer  renders  it  extremely  difficult  to 
provide  forage. 

The  cold  was  daily  increasing : during  the  latter 
half  of  our  journey  from  Sardach  to  this  place  we 
had  had  a temperature  from  — 9°  to  — 33°  with  a 
clear  sky,  but  happily  without  wind.  It  was  neces- 
sary for  us  to  remain  a day  at  Sredne  Kolymsk  to 
obtain  a complete  travelling  equipment  of  fur  cloth- 
ing, such  as  the  inhabitants  wear,  and  which  will  be 
described  in  the  following  chapter. 

I was  so  helpless  when  loaded  with  my  new  cos- 
tume, that  I was  obliged  to  be  lifted  on  my  horse : 
luckily,  the  skin  of  the  reindeer  combines  remarka- 
ble lightness  with  its  great  thickness  and -warmth, 
or  it  would  scarcely  be  possible  to  sustain  the  weight 
of  it.  The  natives  get  along  very  well  with  these 
garments,  and  slip  in  and  out  through  the  narrow 
doors  of  the  cottages,  where  we  novices  were  con- 
stantly sticking  fast. 

On  the  27th  of  October  we  left  Sredne  Kolymsk, 
and  continued  our  journey  on  horseback  along  the 
left  bank  of  the  Kolyma,  meeting  occasionally  with 
settlements.  After  travelling  320  wersts  we  came 
to  a Russian  village  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Omo- 


ARRIVAL  AT  NISHNE  KOLYMSK. 


55 


Ion.  Hree  we  changed  our  mode  of  travelling,  to 
our  great  joy ; for  the  intense  cold  and  our  cum- 
brous dresses  rendered  riding  exceedingly  inconve- 
nient. Quitting  our  horses,  we  placed  ourselves  in 
the  light,  narrow  sledges  used  here,  called  narty^ 
which  are  drawn  by  dogs,  and  with  which  we  found 
that  we  got  on  much  more  rapidly  than  with  horses, 
the  surface  being  quite  smooth,  and  that  we  also 
suffered  far  less  from  the  cold.  Hitherto  we  had 
seen  woods  of  larch  and  poplar,  and  had  met  occa- 
sionally with  birch,  and  with  fine  grassy  meadows  ; 
but  from  this  time  we  scarcely  saw  any  trees,  and 
the  bushes  became  more  and  more  stunted  as  we 
proceeded  farther  north.  Two  days  more  brought 
us  to  Nishne  (Lower)  Kolymsk : we  arrived  there 
on  the  2d  of  November,  and  the  temperature  was 
then  — 400. 

Thus  we  had  travelled  eleven  thousand  worsts  in 
224  days,  and  reached  the  first  point  to  which  we 
were  bound.  Nishne  Kolymsk  is  a fishing  village, 
and  was  destined  to  be  our  headquarters  for  the 
next  three  years. 


CHAPTER  HI. 

Topography  of  the  District  of  the  Lower  Kolyma.-— Character 
of  its  climate. — Winter.— Diseases. — Vegetable  Growth. — 
Abundance  of  Animals. — Former  Inhabitants. — Present  In- 
habitants.—Houses. — Dress. — Sufferings  of  the  People  from 
want  in  the  Spring. — Overflowing  of  the  Rivers. — Fisheries. 
— Taking  of  Birds.— Hunting  the  Reindeer.— Summer  Em- 
ployment of  the  Women. — Catching  Herrings. — Trapping  the 
Fur  Animals. — Intrepidity  of  a Hunter. — Employment  of 
Dogs.  — Interior  of  the  Houses.  — Household  Economy. — 
Amusements. 

The  River  Kolyma  has  its  source  in  lat.,  and 
14G°  long.,  in  the  mountains  known  under  the  name 
of  Stanowoj-Chrebet,  where  the  Indigirka  also  ri- 


5G  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


ses  : its  course  for  the  first  1500  wersts  follows  the 
direction  of  the  eastern  branch  of  those  mountains, 
or  is  N.N.E.;  and  it  empties  itself  into  the  Polar 
Sea  in  40'.  For  the  first  800  wersts  the  stream 
is  exceedingly  rapid,  but  beyond  this  it  becomes  wi- 
der and  more  tranquil.  The  right  bank  is  steep, 
consisting  of  bluff  rocks,  with  the  exception  of  the 
portion  between  the  mouths  of  the  tributary  rivers 
Omolon  and  Aniuj.  These  rocks  are  precipitous 
and  often  overhanging,  composed  of  slate,*  inter- 
sected in  some  places  by  veins  of  indurated  clay, 
and  chloride  slate,  as  at  Cape  Kresty  ; in  others 
the  slate  is  black  and  pure,  without  admixture,  as  at 
Cape  Aspidnoj  (Slate  Cape) ; and  sometimes,  as  in 
the  Kandakow  rocks,  it  is  interspersed  with  amyg- 
daloid chalcedony,  crystals  of  amethyst,  and  large 
specimens  of  rock-crystal.  No  fossils  have  been 
met  with. 

Notwithstanding  the  rocky  character  of  the  right 
bank,  vegetation  is  tolerably  rich : we  saw  the  beau- 
tiful epiloUum  latifolium  in  bloom.  A species  of  sau” 
guisorba  also  abounds,  the  roots  of  which  are  col- 
lected by  the  natives,  and  used  as  an  article  of  food. 

The  left  bank  is  less  elevated  : in  the  district  of 
Sredne  Kolymsk  there  are  still  high-lying  pastures, 
but  in  approaching  the  sea,  the  bank  and  the  district 
become  gradually  lower  and  flatter,  until  at  last  the 
whole  country  is  one  enormous  tundra  or  moss-lev- 
el, extending  to  the  Alasej  and  the  ocean. 

Besides  the  two  rivers  Aniuj  (greater  and  lesser), 
and  the  Omolon,  there  are  several  smaller  tributa- 
ries ; those  which  have  their  sources  in  mountain- 
ous or  rocky  districts  being  called  kamennye  protoJci, 
or  rock-streams,  and  those  which  flow  from  lakes, 
wiskL 


* Granite  is  found  at  the  Baranow  rocks,  and  in  the  district 
of  Cape  Schelagskoj.  I observed  the  first  traces  of  it  at  Med- 
weshy  Myss,  Bear  Cape. 


TOPOGRAPHY  AND  CLIMATE. 


57 


Some  wersts  above  the  mouth  of  the  Omolon,  an 
arm  of  the  Kolyma  encloses  a portion  of  the  west- 
ern tundra,  forming  a low  swampy  island,  on  the 
southern  margin  of  which  Nishne  Kolymsk  is  situa- 
ted. The  river  here  takes  an  easterly  course  for 
about  100  wersts,  after  which  it  turns  sudddenly  to 
the  north,  and,  forty  wersts  below,  it  divides  into 
two  branches,  forming  the  island  of  Merchojanow. 
The  greatest  breadth  of  this  island  is  nine  and  a 
half  wersts,  while  in  length  it  extends  to  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  where  it  is  much  intersected  by  small 
streams.  The  eastern  arm  is  six  wersts  in  breadth, 
and  is  called  Kammenaya,  or  the  stony  Kolyma;  the 
western,  which  is  not  above  four  wersts  wide,  is 
called  the  Pochodskaja,  and  also  called  the  Srednaja, 
or  middle  Kolyma.  About  twenty-four  wersts  far- 
ther to  the  north,  a less  considerable  arm,  called  the 
Tschukotskoj,  branches  off  and  flows  to  the  north- 
east. These  three  arms  form  the  embouchure,  which 
is  about  100  wersts  across.  The  middle  and  the 
stony  Kolyma  have  sufficient  depth  of  water  for 
vessels  of  all  kinds  ; the  navigation  is,  however,  im- 
peded and  rendered  dangerous  by  the  number  of 
shifting  sandbanks  formed  by  their  current,  especial- 
ly near  the  entrance  from  the  sea.  Besides  the  two 
larger  islands  already  mentioned,  there  are  a num- 
ber of  smaller  ones,  which  are  low,  and  have  been 
formed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  sandbanks. 

The  extreme  seVerity  of  the  climate  of  this  dis- 
trict may  be  attributed  perhaps  even  more  to  its  un- 
favourable physical  position  than  to  its  high  lati- 
tude. To  the  west  there  is  the  great  barren  tundra^ 
and  to  the  north  a sea  covered  with  perpetual  ice  ; 
so  that  the  cold  N.W.  wind,  which  blows  almost 
without  intermission,  meets  with  no  impediment ; 
bringing  with  it  violent  storms  of  snow,  not  only  in 
winter,  but  frequently  in  summer.  This  unbroken 
exposure  influences  the  temperature  so  greatly,  that 
the  average  or  mean  temperature  of  the  year  is  not 
higher  than  14®. 


58  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

At  Nishne  Коіз^тізк  the  river  freezes  early  in 
September ; and  nearer  the  mouth,  especially  of  the 
most  northerly  branch,  which  has  the  least  rapid 
current,  loaded  horses  often  cross  on  the  ice  as 
early  as  the  20th  of  August,  nor  does  it  ever  melt 
before  the  beginning  of  June.  It  is  true  that  during 
the  three  months  which  are  honoured  with  the  name 
of  summer,  the  sun  remains,  for  fifty-two  days,  con- 
stantly above  the  horizon,  but  then  so  near  it  that 
his  light  is  accompanied  by  very  little  heat ; his 
disk  often  assuming  an  elliptical  form,  and  being  so 
dim  that  it  may  be  gazed  upon  with  the  naked  eye 
without  inconvenience. 

During  this  season  of  perpetual  light  the  usual 
order  of  nature  is  not  disturbed : as  the  sun  ap- 
proaches the  horizon,  evening  and  night  come  on, 
and  all  is  hushed  in  repose ; as  he  again  ascends, 
nature  awakes  ; the  few  little  birds  hail  the  new  day 
with  their  cheerful  twittering ; the  small  folded  yel- 
low flowers  expand  their  petals,  and  everything  liv- 
ing appears  anxious  to  partake  in  the  enjoyment 
which  his  faint  beams  afford. 

As  under  the  tropics  there  are  only  spring  and 
summer,  so  here  there  are  only  summer  and  winter, 
in  spite  of  the  opinion  of  the  inhabitants,  who  talk 
quite  seriously  of  their  spring  and  autumn.  Spring 
they  affect  to  recognise  in  that  period  when  the  sun 
is  first  visible  at  noon,  tliough  at  this  vernal  season 
the  thermometer  is  often  — 35^  during  the  night ; and 
autumn  they  reckon  from  the  first  freezing  of  the 
river,  which  is  early  in  September,  when  the  tem- 
perature is  frequently  — 47o. 

The  vegetation  of  summer  is  scarcely  more  than 
a struggle  for  existence.  In  the  latter  end  of  May 
the  stunted  willow-bushes  put  forth  little  wrinkled 
leaves,  and  the  banks  which  slope  towards  the  south 
assume  a semi-verdant  hue.  In  June  the  tempera- 
ture at  noon  attains  to  72°  ; the  flow^ers  begin  to 
show  themselves,  and  the  berry-bearing  plants  bios- 


SERVICES  RENDERED  BY  MOSGHETOES.  59 

som^  when  not  imfrequently  an  icy  blast  from  the 
sea  turns  the  verdure  yellow,  and  destroys  the 
bloom.  The  air  is  clearest  in  July,  and  the  tem- 
perature is  then  usually  mild.  But,  as  if  to  imbitter 
to  the  inhabitants  of  this  dreary  region  any  sem- 
blance of  summer,  and  to  make  them  wish  for  the 
return  of  winter,  millions  of  moschetoes  now  dark- 
en the  air,  and  oblige  them  to  take  refuge  in  the 
thick  and  pungent  smoke  of  the  dymokuries,*  to  pro- 
tect themselves  against  these  tormentors.  Butj  as 
everything  in  nature  has  a beneficent  purpose,  and 
there  is  no  disadvantage  that  is  not  compensated  by 
good,  these  insects  render  an  essential  service  to 
the  inhabitants  by  forcing  the  reindeer  to  leave  the 
forests,  and  to  take  refuge  in  the  cold  open  plains 
near  the  sea.  This  they  /commonly  do  in  troops  of 
many  hundreds,  or  even  thousands ; and  then  the 
hunters,  lying  in  wait  for  them,  especially  as  they 
cross  the  rivers  and  lakes,  kill  great  numbers  with- 
out difficulty. 

Another  service  rendered  by  the  moschetoes  is, 
that  they  prevent  the  hordes  from  straying  away  in 
the  vast  plains,  where  there  are  no  enclosures,  and 
where  they  feed  without  keepers.  Their  instinct 
teaches  them  to  keep  near  the  dymokuries,  to  protect 
themselves  from  their  enemies,  where  they  graze 
on  the  leeside  of  these  glimmering  heaps  in  the 
cover  of  the  smoke.  When  the  pasture  is  fed  off  in 
one  place,  the  smoke-heaps  are  established  in  an- 
other; and  they  are  generally  enclosed  by  a slight 
fence,  to  prevent  the  horses  from  coming  too  near 
the  fire. 

In  summer  the  rolling  of  thunder-storms  is  heard 
in  the  mountains,  but  they  have  little  influence  on 
the  great  plains. 

* These  are  large  heaps  of  fallen  leaves,  moss,  and  damp 
wood,  which  are  set  on  fire,  and  the  dense  smoke  from  them 
drives  away  the  insects.  They  are  placed  both  in  the  pastures 
and  near  the  houses,  so  that  the  inhabitants  pass  the  whole  mos- 
cheto  season  in  a constant  cloud  of  smoke. 


60  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Winter,  properly  so  called,  prevails  during  nine 
months  of  the  year.  In  October  the  cold  is  some- 
what mitigated  by  thick  fogs,  and  by  the  vapour  rising 
from  the  freezing  sea ; but  in  November  the  intense 
cold  begins,  and  in  January  it  increases  to  — 65^. 
Then  breathing  becomes  difficult : the' wild  reindeer, 
that  denizen  of  the  polar  region,  retires  to  the  deep- 
est thicket  of  the  forest,  and  there  stands  motionless, 
as  if  deprived  of  life.  The  night  of  fifty-two  revo- 
lutions of  the  earth  is  relieved  by  the  whitened  sur- 
face and  the  strong  refraction  of  the  snow,  as  well 
as  by  frequent  auroras.  On  the  28th  of  December 
a pale  twilight  begins  to  be  visible  at  noon,  but  it 
is  not  sufficient  to  dim  the  stars.  As  the  sun  re- 
turns, the  cold  becomes  even  more  severe,  and  its 
intensity  at  his  rising  in  February  and  March  is  es- 
pecially felt.  Perfectly  clear  days  are  extremely 
rare  in  winter,  as  the  sea-winds,  which  constantly 
prevail,  bring  with  them  vapours  and  fogs,  which 
are  sometimes  so  dense  as  wholly  to  conceal  the 
stars  of  the  deep  blue  polar  sky.  These  thick  fogs 
are  called  morrok.  They  prevail  least  in  September. 

There  is  a remarkable  phenomena  known  here  by 
the  name  of  teplot  weter  (the  warm  wind),  blowing 
from  S.E.  by  S.  It  sometimes  begins  suddenly, 
when  the  sky  is  quite  clear,  and  in  the  middle  of 
winter  raises  the  temperature  in  a short  time  from 
— 47°  + to  350  ; so  that  the  plates  of  ice,  which  are 
the  substitutes  for  glass  in  the  windows,  begin  to  melt. 
In  the  valleys  of  the  Aniuj,  this  warm  wind  is  fre- 
quently felt ; but  its  influence  does  not  extend  to 
the  west  of  Cape  Tschukotskoj.  It  is  seldom  of 
longer  continuance  than  twenty-four  hours. 

Though,  from  what  has  been  said,  the  climate  evi- 
dently is  one  of  the  most  severe  and  unkindly,  yet 
it  must  be  owned  that  it  is  not,  on  the  whole,  prej- 
udicial to  health.  There  are  here  neither  scur- 
vy, nor  any  dangerous  infectious  diseases.  Ca- 
tarrhal fever  and  complaints  of  the  eyes  are  preva- 


DISEASES. VEGETABLE  ОКОЛѴТН.  61 

lent,  but  only  in  October,  during  the  thick  fogs,  and 
in  December,  when  the  severe  frosts  set  in.  The 
inflammation  of  the  eyes  is  partly  caused  by  reflec- 
tion from  the  snow,  which  is  so  powerful  as  to  re- 
quire a protector  to  be  worn  over  them.  The  sick- 
ness called  powetry^  which  prevails  among  the  in- 
habitants of  the  coast  to  the  west  of  the  Kolyma,  is 
much  more  rare  and  less  malignant  in  this  district. 
The  disease  which  in  1821  attacked  the  dogs  through- 
out Northern  Siberia,  did  not  make  its  appearance  at 
Kolymsk  till  a year  later  than  on  the  rivers  to  the 
west,  and  along  the  Tschuktschi  coast.  There  is 
here,  indeed,  as  in  all  Northern  Siberia,  that  singular 
malady  called  mirak,  which,  according  to  the  uni- 
versal superstition  of  the  people,  proceeds  from  the 
ghost  of  a much-dreaded  sorceress  that  is  supposed 
to  enter  into  and  torment  the  patient.  The"  mirak 
appears  to  me  to  be  only  an  aggravated  form  of  hys- 
teria : the  persons  attacked  by  it  are  chiefly  women. 

The  scanty  vegetation  corresponds  to  the  severi- 
ty of  the  climate ; and  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Nishne  Kolymsk  it  is  especially  meager.  The  sur- 
rounding country  consists  of  a low  marsh,  on  the 
surface  of  which  a thin  layer  of  vegetable  earth  rests 
upon  ice  which  never  thaws : it  supports  a few 
stunted  larches,  whose  roots,  unable  to  penetrate 
into  the  frozen  soil,  extend  along  its  surface,  and 
gather  nourishment  only  by  the  smaller  fibres,  which 
alone  are  completely  covered,  while  small-leaved 
willows  grow  here  and  there  on  the  banks  facing 
the  south.  On  the  plains  a hard,  reedy  grass  fur- 
nishes a coarse  food  for  cattle,  the  quality  of  which 
is  best  in  those  parts  that  arc  occasionally  overflow- 
ed by  sea-w^ater.  The  nearer  we  approach  the 
ocean,  the  more  rare  the  bushes  become  : on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Kolyma  they  cease  entirely  about 
thirty-five  wersts  north  of  Nishne  Kolymsk  ; but  on 
the  right  bank  they  extend  farther,  the  soil,  from  its 
greater  dryness,  being  more  favourable  to  vegetation, 


62  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

and  producing  stronger  plants,  as  well  as  a greater 
variety,  than  the  dreary  icy  moor  on  the  opposite 
side.  On  the  right  bank  there  are  patches  of  good 
grass,  of  wild-thyme,  and  of  wormwood : and  even 
the  wild-rose  and  the  forget-me-not  are  to  be  seen. 
The  currant,  the  black  and  the  white  whortleberry, 
the  cloud-berry,  and  the  aromatic  dwarf  crimson 
bramble  {rubus  arcticus)  blossom  here,  and  in  fa- 
vourable seasons  bear  fruit.  No  one  attempts  the 
cultivation  of  any  vegetable,  nor  could  the  smallest 
success  attend  it.  At  Sredne  Kolymsk,  which  is  2^ 
farther  south,  I have  seen  radishes,  and  even  cab- 
bages, but  the  latter  formed  no  heads. 

In  the  valleys  of  the  Aniuj,  which  are  sheltered 
by  mountains  from  the  prevailing  cold  winds,  birclr- 
es,  poplars,  willows,  and  the  low-creeping  cedar 
grow.  In  comparison  with  the'  frozen  naked  moss- 
tundra,  indeed,  one  might  here  imagine  himself 
transported  to  Itahy ; but  even  in  these  valleys,  the 
snow  appears  to  melt  only  to  form  fresh  ice  be- 
neath the  thin  covering  of  mould  which  the  sun 
never  penetrates. 

The  poverty  of  vegetation  is  strongly  contrasted 
with  the  rich  abundance  of  animal  life.  Elks,  black 
bears,  foxes,  sables,  gray  squirrels,  and  countless 
herds  of  reindeer,  fill  the  upland  forests,  while  stone 
foxes  and  wolves  roam  over  the  low  grounds.  Pro- 
digious flights  of  swans,  geese,  and  ducks  arrive  in 
spring,  in  search  of  deserts  where  they  may  moult, 
and  build  their  nests  in  safety.  Eagles,  owls,  and 
gulls  pursue  their  prey  on  the  seacoast;  ptarmi- 
gan run  in  troops  among  the  bushes ; snipes  are 
busy  along  the  brooks,  and  in  the  morasses ; the 
social  crows  seek  the  neighbourhood  of  men’s  habi- 
tations ; and,  when  the  sun  shines  in  spring,  one  may 
even  sometimes  hear  the  cheerful  note  of  the  finch, 
and  in  autumn,  that  of  the  thrush.* 

* According  to  the  observations  of  Dr.  Kyber,  the  only  birds 


FORMER  INHABITANTS  OP  THE  COUNTRY.  63 

Yet  all  this  manifold  life  cannot  alleviate  the 
dreariness  of  the  desert,  or  repress  the  thought 
that  here  is  the  limit  of  the  animated  world.  The 
animals  either  visit  or  inhabit  these  icy  wastes  in 
obedience  to  the  unerring  laws  of  instinct : they 
have  no  choice  to  exercise.  But  what  induced  man 
to  fix  himself  in  this  dismal  region  1 I speak  not  of 
the  few  Russians,  who  stay  for  a limited  period  in 
the_  hope  of  gain,  but  of  the  tribes  who  came  hither 
without  any  such  motive,  and  who  have  taken  up 
their  permanent  abode  in  these  countries.  Nomade 
races,  under  milder  skies,  wandering  from  one  fruit- 
ful region  to  another,  gradually  forget  the  land  of  their 
birth,  and  even  prefer  new  homes.  But  here  there 
is  nothing  to  invite.  Endless  snows  and  ice-covered 
rocks  bound  the  horizon.  Nature  lies  shrouded  in 
almost  perpetual  winter.  Life  is  an  unceasing  con- 
flict with  privation,  and  with  the  terrors  of  cold  and 
hunger.  What,  then,  led  men  to  forsake  more  fa- 
voured lands  for  this  grave  of  nature,  which  con- 
tains only  the  bones  of  an  earlier  world  1*  It  is  in 

which  winter  here  are  the  ptarmigan,  the  common  crow,  the 
bald  eagle,  and  the  snowy  owl.  The  snow-bunting  and  the 
Kamtschatkan  thrush  {motacilla  calliope)  appear  early  in  April, 
The  lapwing,  common  snipe,  and  ring-plover  arrive  later ; and 
in  May,  swans,  four  kinds  of  geese,  and  eleven  kinds  of  ducks, 
make  their  appearance. 

* M.  Hedenström  gives  some  interesting  particulars  respect- 
ing the  mammoth-bones,  the  peculiar  production  of  Siberia,  and 
more  particularly  of  the  northern  islands.  According  to  his  ac- 
count, these  bones  or  tusks  are  less  large  and  heavy  the  farther 
we  advance  towards  the  north,  so  that  it  is  a rare  occurrence  on 
the  islands  to  meet  with  a tusk  of  more  than  three  pood  in 
weight,  whereas  on  the  Continent  they  are  said  often  to  weigh 
as  much  as  twelve  pood.  In  quantity,  however,  they  increase 
wonderfully  towards  the  north,  and,'  as  Sannikow  expresses 
himself,  the  whole  soil  of  the  jirst  of  the  Lächow  Islands  appears  to 
consist  of  them.  For  about  eighty  years  the  fur-hunters  have  an- 
nually brought  large  cargoes  of  them  from  this  island,  but  as 
yet  there  is  no  sensible  diminution  of  the  stock.  The  tusks  on 
the  islands  are  also  much  more  fresh  and  white  than  those  of 
the  Continent.  A sandbank  on  the  western  side  is  the  most 


64  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


vain  to  question  the  inhabitants,  who  are  incessantly 
occupied  with  the  necessities  of  the  present  hour, 
and  among  whom  no  traditions  preserve  the  mem- 
ory of  the  past.  Nothing  definite  is  known  con- 
cerning the  people  of  this  country  even  at  the  not 
very  remote  epoch  of  its  conquest  by  the  Russians. 
I have  indeed  heard  an  obscure  saying,  “ that  there 
were  once  more  hearths  of  the  Omoki  on  the  shores 
of  the  Kolyma  than  there  are  stars  in  the  clear 
sky  there  are  also  remains  of  forts,  formed  of 
trunks  of  trees,  and  tumuli,  the  latter  being  for  the 
most  part  near  the  Indigirka,  and  both  may  have  be- 
longed to  these  Omoki,  who  have  now  disappeared. 

From  the  little  I could  gather  on  the  subject,  it 
would  seem  that  the  Omoki  were  a numerous  and 
powerful  people  ; that  they  were  not  nomades,  but 
lived  in  settlements  along  the  rivers,  and  supported 


productive;  and  the  fur-hunters  declare  that,  vs'hen  the  sea 
recedes  after  a long  continuance  of  easterly  winds,  a fresh  sup- 
ply of  mammoth-bones  is  always  found  washed  up  on  this  bank, 
proceeding  apparently  from  some  vast  store  of  them  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  sea. 

In  addition  to  the  mammoth,  the  remains  of  two  other  un- 
known animals  are  found  along  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Ocean. 
The  head  of  one  of  these  bears  a strong  resemblance  to  that  of 
the  reindeer ; differing  from  it,  however,  in  the  size  and  form 
of  the  antlers,  which  descend  and  turn  up  towards  the  extrem- 
ity. The  head  of  the  other  animal  is  usually  about  thirty-one 
inches  long  and  twelve  inches  broad,  the  nose  being  bent  down- 
ward, and  showing  several  rows  of  bony  excrescences.  Near 
these  last-named  sculls  something  like  the  claw  of  an  enormous 
bird  is  generally  found.  These  claws  are  often  three  English 
feet  long,  flat  above,  but  pointed  below,  the  section  present- 
ing a triangle.  They  appear  to  have  been  divided  into  joints 
throughout  their  whole  length,  like  the  claws  of  a bird.  The 
Jukahiri,  who  make  use  of  these  horny  claws  to  give  increased 
force  to  their  bows,  maintain  that  they,  together  with  the  heads- 
found  near  them,  belonged  to  an  enormous  bird,  respecting 
which  they  relate  a number  of  marvellous  stories.  Dr.  Kyber, 
who  had  frequent  opportunities  of  examining  both  the  heads  and 
claws,  believes  them  to  be  the  remains  of  a species  of  rhino- 
ceros. 


PAYMENT  OF  TRIBUTE. 


65 


themselves  by  fishing  and  hunting.  Another  nu- 
merous tribe,  the  Tschukotschi  or  Tschuktschi,  ap- 
pear to  have  wandered  over  the  tundra  with  their 
herds  of  reindeer,  and  certain  features  of  the  coun- 
try still  bear  their  name  ; as,  for  example,  the  Mala- 
ja  and  Bolschaja  Tschukotscha,  the  greater  and  the 
lesser  Tschuktschi  rivers.  Both  races,  however, 
have  disappeared  : the  Omoki  having  perished  prob- 
ably by  want  and  disease,  while  the  Tschuktschi 
have  partly  wandered  away,  and  partly  become  con- 
founded among  more  recent  tribes,  forming  with 
them  the  present  scanty  population  of  the  country. 
In  the  whole  Kolyma  circle  there  are  now  325  Rus- 
sian peasants,  citizens,  and  Cossacks,  1034  Jakuti, 
and  1139  Jukahiri  and  other  races;  in  all,  2498 
males,  of  whom  2173  jassak  or  tribute. 

This  jassak  consists  of  803  foxes  and  28  sables, 
which  may  be  estimated  at  6704  roubles,  and  10,847 
roubles  in  money,  making  an  average  of  about  eight 
roubles  to  be  paid  by  every  male  of  the  Jakuti  and 
other  tribes.  The  Russian  peasants  and  citizens 
are  chiefly  descended  from  exiles,  and  the  Cossacks 
from  those  of  that  race  who  retreated  here  from  the 
fortress  on  the  Anadyr  when  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  Tschuktschi.  Up  to  the  year  1812  the  Cossacks 
were  considered  as  attached  to  the  public  service, 
and  received  annually  from  government  a certain 
supply  of  provisions,  which,  however,  they  were 
hemselves  required  to  bringt  from  the  upper  district 
of  the  Kolyma.  With  the  improvidence  so  charac- 
teristic of  this  people,  in  consequence  of  a few 
successive  good  hunting  and  fishing  years,  they 
neglected  to  avail  themselves  of  this  supply,  and  in 
1812  it  ceased  to  be  issued.  Since  that  period  there 
have  been  several  years  in  which  the  fishing  and 
hunting  were  less  productive,  general  want  has  pre- 
vailed, and  they  have  had  occasion  bitterly  to  regret 
the  forfeiture  of  the  advantages  which  they  former- 
ly enjoyed.  With  the  exception  of  six  of  their 


№ Wrangell’s  polar  expedition.  lAJ^ 

number,  who  are  retained  in  the  public  employ,  the 
Co&sacks  now  form  a corporation  governed  by  a 
principal,  who  is  under  the  commissioner  at  Sredne 
Kolymsk : they  pay  no  tribute,  but  are  required  to 
appear  when  called  upon,  equipped  with  sabres  and 
firearms.  They  also  furnish  a party  of  twenty-five 
or  thirty  men  to  keep  order  at  the  annual  fair,  and 
to  protect  the  Russian  and  other  traders,  if  necessa- 
ry, against  the  Tschuktschi.  . . . ^ „ 

Although  the  Russians  in  this  district  do  not  differ 
much  from  the  other  inhabitants  in  their  clothing 
and  modes  of  life,  nor  even  in  their  features,  still 
they  are  easily  distinguishable  from  them  by  their 
more  muscular  frames.  They  are  generally  taller, 
with  fairer  complexions,  and  many  of  them  have  j 

lio-ht  brown  hair,  which  is  never  seen  among  the  na- 
tive races.  The  Russian  women,  too,  in  spite  of  the 
incessant  drudgery  to  which  they  are  subjected,  and 
their  want  of  cleanliness,  have  more  agreeable  fea- 
tures than  the  natives,  and  many  among  them  might 
even  be  called  good-looking.  I was  particularly 
struck  with  their  general  kindness  and  their  affec-  j 

tionate  demeanour,  and  often  I had  occasion  to  wit-  j 

ness  the  heartfelt  joy  with  which  they  welcomed 
the  retürn  of  a husband  or  son  from  the  dangers  ol 
the  chase  or  of  a distant  journey.  Most  of  the  Rus-  | 

sian  women  sing  very  agreeably  songs  of  their  own  ^ 

composing,  the  subject  of  which  is  frequently  the 
absence  of  those  who  are  dear  to  them.  In  these 
sontTs  it  is  curious  to  remark  the  reminiscences  ot 
еагЙег  times,  in  the  allusions  to  doves,  nightingales, 
flowers,  and  other  objects  not  to  be  met  with  in  a 
distance  of  several  thousand  worsts,  and  of  which 
the  singer  can  know  nothing  except  by  tradition. 

' The  dwellings  of  the  two  races  are  much  alike. 

As  the  larch-trees  are  too  small  to  be  of  any 
the  construction  of  their  habitations,  they  9 ’ 

ged  to  employ  driftwood  for  that  purpose.  This  is 
carefully  collected  at  the  time  of  the  floods  ш 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  HOUSES. 


67 


spring,  and  it  sometimes  takes  several  years  to  ac- 
cumulate the  necessary  timber  for  a house.  The 
walls  are  formed  of  logs  in  the  Russian  manner, 
the  interstices  being  filled  with  moss,  and  plastered 
over  with  clay  ; while  a mound  of  earth  is  thrown 
up  against  them,  reaching  as  high  as  the  windows, 
to  serve  as  a protection  against  the  cold.  The  huts 
are  usually  from  twelve  to  eighteen  feet  square,  and 
about  nine  feet  high  ; the  roofs  being  flat,  and  cov- 
ered with  a considerable  thickness  of  earth.  The . 
interior  arrangement  is  in  all  the  same  : in  one  cor- 
ner of  the  room  is  the  Jaluti  tschuwal,  a kind  of 
open  fireplace  made  with  willow-rods,  plastered  on 
both  sides  with  a thick  coat  of  clay,  and  the  smoke 
escapes  by  a hole  in  the  roof.  Recently  they  have 
begun  to  make  Russian  stoves  of  hard-beaten  plas- 
ter, with  chimneys.  Two  or  three  sleeping-places 
are  partitioned  off,  according  to  the  wants  of  the 
family ; and  the  remainder  of  the  space  serves  for 
cooking,  dwelling,  working,  and  the  reception  of 
their  friends.  Wide  benches  are  ranged  round,  on 
\vhich  are  laid  reindeer  skins  for  their  guests  to  sit 
and  sleep  on.  Household  utensils,  guns,  bows  and 
arrows,  &c.,  hang  about  the  walls.  Their  tw^o  little 
windows  of  a foot  square  or  less  might  give  suffi- 
cient light  if  they  had  glass  panes  ; but  in  summer 
they  are  of  fish-membrane,  and  in  winter  consist 
of  plates  of  ice  six  inches  in  thickness.  On  one 
side  of  the  house  is  a small  porch,  and  adjoining  to 
it  the  provision-room,  made  of  thin  boards.  There 
is  sometimes  a second  fireplace  in  the  porch.  All 
the  houses  have  the  windows  facing  the  south. 
On  the  roof  iind  about  the  house  are  scaffolds  for 
drying  fish ; and  there  is  also  a small  kennel  for 
Sheltering  the  dogs  in  extreme  cold  weather  ; but 
they  are  more  generally  tethered  outside,  where 
they  bury  themselves  in  the  snow.  Enclosed  courts 
are  scarcely  ever  seen.  The  houses  are  not  arran- 
ged in  streets,  but  are  pläced  without  order,  and 


68  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

according  to  the  caprice  of  the  builders.  The  peo- 
ple make  but  little  use  of  baths  ; and,  although  the 
government  has  caused  them  to  be  constructed  in 
every  village,  they  are  neglected,  and  are  mostly 
falling  into  decay. 

Generally  speaking,  indeed,  there  is  but  little 
cleanliness.  Only  a few  of  the  more  wealthy  in- 
habitants have  under  garments  of  linen  or  cotton 
cloth,  those  in  general  use  being  made  of  soft  rein- 
deer skins,  sewed  together,  and  worn  with  the  hair 
inside.  The  outside  is  coloured  red  with  1;he  bark 
of  the  alder,  and  the  edges  and  sleeves  are  trim- 
med \vith  narrow  strips  of  beaver  or  of  river  otter- 
skin,  which  are  bought  at  rather  high  prices  from 
the  Tschuktschi : the  trousers  are  also  of  reindeer 
skin.  Over  the  fur  shirt  an  outer  garment  called 
kamleja  is  worn.  It  is  made  of  thick  tanned  rein- 
deer leather,  without  the  hair,  and  is  coloured  yel- 
low by  smoke  : it  is  closed  before  and  behind,  hav- 
ing a hood  fastened  to  the  back  of  the  neck,  and 
this  is  drawn  over  the  head  on  leaving  the  house. 
People  in  better  circumstances  have  a garment  of 
the  same  form  for  wearing  within  doors,  made  of  a 
cotton  cloth  called  kitajka.  They  wear  a sort  of 
boots  made  of  brown  leather  or  of  black  goatskin, 
sewed  to  tops  of  reindeer  skin  with  the  hair  on ; 
these  are  ornamented  with  various  devices  in  silk, 
and  sometimes  even  embroidered  with  gold  thread, 
and  two  bands  crossing  round  the  legs  bind  the  boots 
and  trousers  together.  In  the  open  air  they  wear 
a double  fur  cap,  narrowing  towards  the  top,  but  deep 
and  broad  enough  to  cover  the  forehead  and  the 
cheeks  ; and,  besides  this,  they  wear  separate  cover- 
ings for  the  forehead,  ears,  nose,  and  chin.  These 
are  often  articles  of  great  cost,  the  forehead-band 
especially,  which,  being  worn  more  for  ornament 
than  use,  is  adorned  with  different  kinds  of  col- 
oured and  gold  embroidery  ; and  after  the  cap  is  laid 
aside  on  entering  the  house,  the  forehead-band  is 
often  kept  on  for  show. 


DRESS  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 


69 


On  journeys,  the  kuchlanka  is  worn  over  all  the 
above-mentioned  garments.  This  is  a wider  kamle- 
ja^  made  of  double  skin,  with  a large  hood  attached  to 
it : hand-bags  are  sewn  to  the  sleeves,  a small  open- 
ing being  left  on  the  inside,  through  which  the  hand 
can  be  protruded  when  required  for  use,  and  imme- 
diately drawn  back  again  to  protect  it  from  the  cold. 
Instead  of  the  house-boots,  half  stockings,  made  of 
the  skin  of  the  young  reindeer,  are  then  worn,  with 
the  iorbassy^  or  boots,  drawn  over  them.  In  this  cos- 
tume one  can  defy  the  severest  cold  for  a long  time. 

In  the  belt  is  carried  a large  knife ; the  gansa^  a 
very  small  pipe,  made  of  brass  or  tin,  with  a short 
wooden  tube  ; a pouch  containing  the  materials  for 
striking  a fire,  and  the  tobacco,  which  is  mixed  with 
finely-powdered  larch-wood,  to  make  it  go  farther. 

The  Russians  here  use  tobacco  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  all  the  people  of  Northern  Asia,  swallowing 
the  smoke,  and  allowing  it  to  escape  again  by  the  nose 
and  ears.  They  speak  of  the  pleasurable  sensation 
arising  from  the  sort  of  intoxication  thus  produced, 
and  assert  that  inhaling  the  smoke  in  this  manner 
affords  much  warmth  in  intensely  cold  weather. 

The  house-clothing  of  the  women  differs  from  that 
of  the  men  chiefly  in  being  made  of  much  lighter 
skins.  Females  who  can  afford  it  wear  cotton,  and 
sometimes  even  silk  stuffs,  and- ornament  the  part 
about  the  throat  with  trimmings  of  sable  or  martin. 
They  also  bind  cotton  or  silk  handkerchiefs  about 
their  heads,  and  sometimes  wear  knitted  caps,  under 
which  the  married  women  conceal  their  hair,  after 
the  Russian  fashion.  The  young  girls  allow  their 
hair  to  hang  down  in-  a long  braid,  and  wear  a fore- 
head-band when  they  are  more  dressed  than  usual. 
Their  gala  dress  very  much  resembles  that  which 
was  worn  some  twenty  years  ago  by  females  of  the 
trading  classes  in  Russia.  The  larger  the  figures 
and  the  more  various  the  colours  of  the  silk,  and  the 
heavier  and  gayer  the  earrings,  the  more  tasteful 


70  WRANGELL^S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 

and  elegant  the  dress  is  considered.  The  traders 
who  attend  the  yearly  fairs  know  how  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  this  : they  bring  the  finery  which  has 
gone  out  of  fashion  even  at  Jakuzk  to  the  banks  of 
the  Kolyma,  where  they  sell  it  for  high  prices,  as 
being  of  the  newest  mode. 

Fully  to  understand  the  customs  and  peculiarities 
of  these  people,  one  must  have  lived  among  them  ; 
must  have  accompanied  them  from  their  winter 
dwellings  to  their  summer  balagans,  have  navigated 
the  rapid  rivers  with  them  in  their  karbasses  or  heavy 
boats,  and  in  their  wetkas  or  light  canoes.  One  must 
have  climbed  with  them  the  rocks  and  the  hills,  on 
foot  and  on  horseback ; have  thridded  the  mazes  of 
the  thick  forest  with  them ; and  with  them  have  cour- 
sed over  the  boundless  Tundra,  on  the  light  sledge, 
drawn  by  dogs,  in  intense  cold,  and  in  violent  snow- 
storms. In  a word^  one  must  have  been  domestica- 
ted among  them,  as  we  were  during  nearly  three 
years.  We  lived  with  them,  we  dressed  as  they  did, 
we  ate  the  same  food,  and  shared  with  them  all  the 
privations  and  discomforts  inseparable  from  the  cli- 
mate, frequently  experiencing  the  most  pressing 
want  of  all  the  necessaries  of  life.  I am  therefore 
enabled  to  give  a faithful  picture  of  life  at  Nishne 
Kolymsk,  which,  apart  from  a few  local  circumstan- 
ces, will  apply  to  the  whole  course  of  the  Kolyma. 

Let  us  begin,  then,  with  spring.  The  fisheries,  as 
we  have  before  remarked,  are  the  most  important 
branch  of  industry  which  the  inhabitants  pursue, 
and  one  on  which  their  very  existence  may  be  said 
essentially  to  depend.  The  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  Nishne  Kolymsk  is  unfavourable  to  it,  so 
that  in  spring  the  people  leave  their  habitations,  and 
scatter  themselves  along  the  banks  of  the  river  in 
search  of  places  which  are  more  advantageous, 
where  they  erect  their  balagans  or  light  summer-huts, 
and  make  their  preparations  for  fishing.  Most  of 
them  have  their  country-houses  for  this  purpose,  at 


SUFFERINGS  IN  THE  SPRING. 


71 


Ihe  mouths  of  the  smaller  streams,  which  they  begin 
to  visit  ill  April.  When  the  traders  are  passing  the 
lesser  Aniuj,  about  the  middle  of  May,  on  their  re- 
turn to  Jakuzk  from  the  yearly  fair  at  Ostrownoj, 
the  whole  population  of  the,  place  goes  out  to  meet 
them,  leaving  only  the  Cossack  commander,  one  or 
two  guards,  the  priest,  and  perhaps  a few  destitute 
families,  who  have  nothing  to  sell,  and  who  are  too 
weak  to  follow  the  crowd. 

Spring  on  the  Kolyma  is  the  most  trying  season 
of  the  year : the  provisions  laid  up  during  the  pre- 
vious summer  and  autumn  have  been  consumed,  and 
the  fish,  which  had  withdrawn  into  the  deepest  parts 
of  the  rivers  and  lakes  during  the  intense  cold,  have 
not  yet  returned.  The  dogs,  too,  are  often  so  much 
enfeebled  by  their  winter  work  and  by  insufficient 
food,  that  they  are  unable  to  chase  the  reindeer  and 
elk  over  the  nast,*  the  only  favourable  opportunity- 
which  the  early  spring  affords  for  obtaining  food. 
A few  ptarmigan  are  snared,  but  they  are  quite  in- 
sufficient to  satisfy  the  general  want.  The  Tungusi 
and  Jukahiri  now  flock  in  from  the  Tundra  and  from 
the  Aniuj,  to  the  Russian  villages  on  the  Kolyma, 
to  escape  starvation.  One  sees  them,  like  wander- 
ing spectres,  pale,  without  strength,  and  scarcely 
able  to  walk ; they  greedily  pick  up  the  remains  of 
bones,  skin,  or  anything  else  which  can  alleviate  the 
pangs  of  hunger.  But  there  is  little  relief  for  them 
here,  where  want  likewise  reigns  ; the  inhabitants 
being  often  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  small  re- 

* When  the  warmth  of  the  sun  in  spring  thaws  the  surface  of 
the  snow,  it  freezes  again  at  night,  forming  a thin  crust  of  ice, 
which  is  just  strong  enough  to  Ыаг  a light  sledge  with  its  team 
of  dogs.  This  state  of  the  snow  is  called  nast.  The  hunters 
profit  by  it  to  pursue  the  elk  and  reindeer  by  night ; and  as  the 
weight  of  these  animals  cause  them  to  break  through,  they  fall 
an  easy  prey.  The  nast  continues  to  form  during  a longer  or 
shorter  period,  according  to  the  more  or  less  sheltered  situation 
of  different  places,  and  the  depth  of  the  snow.  It  does  not  occur 
every  year;  and  during  the  whole  time  of  our  stay  there  was  no 
nast  in  the  district. 


72  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

mains  of  the  provisions  reserved  for  the  dogs,  in 
consequence  of  which  many  of  them  perish. 

It  is  true,  a magazine  has  been  established  by  the 
government  for  the  sale  of  rye-meal,  which  is  dis- 
posed of  not  only  without  profit,  but  at  some  sacri- 
fice. Still,  the  enormous  distance,  and  the  difficul- 
ties of  the  transport,  which  sometimes  occupies  two 
years,  so  raise  the  cost  of  the  article  that  the  great- 
er number  cannot  buy  it,  though,  in  order  to  bring’ it 
within  their  reach,  payment  is  not  required  until  the 
following  autumn  or  winter.  There  are  very  few 
who  can  engage  to  pay  twenty  roubles  for  a pood  of 
meal,  which  is  not  unfrequently  half  spoiled  by  the 
long  journey.  While  we  were  at  Sredne  Kolymsk, 
the  commissioner  was  requested  to  give  in  an  esti- 
mate of  the  quantity  of  meal  which  should  be  sent 
for  the  use  of  his  district.  He  thereupon  applied  to 
the  golowa  of  the  Cossacks,  who  is  particularly  char- 
ged with  the  superintendence  of  the  Tungusi  and 
.Tukahiri,  when  the  reply  of  this  latter  functionary 
was,  “ I do  not  know  how  to  furnish  you  with  the 
definite  estimate  which  you  require ; but  this  much 
I can  assure  you,  that  there  are  not  many  here  who 
would  be  able,  or  even  disposed,  to  pay  two  roubles 
a day  to  prolong  their  miserable  existence.” 

It  was  my  lot  to  pass  here  three  such  dreadful 
springs  ; and  I cannot  now  look  back  without  shud- 
dering on  the  scenes  of  misery  which  I have  wit- 
nessed, but  whish  I may  not  venture  to  describe. 

When  need,  however,  is  at  the  highest,  help  usual- 
ly appears.  Suddenly  large  flights  of  birds  arrive 
from  the  south  : swans,  geese,  ducks,  and  snipes  of 
various  kinds.  The  general  distress  is  now  at  an 
end.  Old  and  young,  men  and  women,  all  who  can 
use  a gun  or  a bow,  hasten  to  the  pursuit.  Fish  also 
begin  to  be  taken  in  nets  and  baskets  placed  under 
the  ice.  The  terrible  time  of  hunger  is  for  the  pres- 
ent ended.  It  is  fortunate  that  the  food  is  not  very 
abundant  at  first,  so  that  the  half-starved  people  are 


SUDDEN  INUNDATIONS. 


73 


accustomed  to  it  by  degrees,  just  as  an  experienced 
physician  would  treat  his  patients.  But  in  June  the 
rivers  open,  and  the  fish  now  pour  in  in  abundance  : 
all  hands  are  in  activity  to  make  the  most  of  this 
short  harvest,  in  order  to  lay  up  provisions  for  the 
following  winter.  Still  this  season  sometimes  brings 
with  it  a new  difficulty.  The  current  not  carrying 
away  sufficiently  fast  the  masses  of  ice,  they  ground 
in  the  bays  or  shallows,  and  thus  form  a kind  of 
dam,  which  obstructs  the  course  of  the  river,  and 
causes  it  to  overflow  its  banks  ; thus  the  meadows 
and  villages  are  laid  under  water,  and  those  who 
have  not  taken  the  precaution  to  drive  their  horses 
to  higher  ground,  lose  them.  In  the  summer  of 
1822  we  had  an  inundation  of  this  kind.  It  was  so 
sudden  that  we  had  but  just  time  to  remove  our 
things  to  the  flat  roof  of  the  house,  where  we  pass- 
ed more  than  a week.  The  lake  to  the  north  of  Ko- 
lymsk  united  its  waters  with  those  of  the  river,  and 
the  tops  of  the  houses  in  the  village  looked  like  an 
archipelago  of  little  islands,  among  which  the  people 
went  about  in  their  boats,  visiting  each  other  and 
fishing.  These  overflowings  of  the  rivers  take  place 
more  or  less  every  year. 

When  the  waters  have  subsided,  the  great  net-fish- 
ing begins.  In  some  places  this  lasts  only  a few 
days;  while Tn  others,  as  in  Pochodsk,  and  at  the 
Tschukotskoj  River,  it  continues  throughout  the 
summer,  though  the  quantity  taken  gradually  dimin- 
ishes. At  this  season,  sturgeon,  a large  kind  of  sal- 
mon trout  {nelma)^  a large  fish  with  round  back  {muk- 
sun),  and  a species  called  tschir,  are  taken.  The  fish 
caught  in  coming  down  stream  are  generally  in  very 
poor  condition,  for  which  reason  they  are  usually 
put  aside  for  the  dogs,  and  are  prepared  as  juchala^ 
i.  (?.,  cleaned,  cut  open,  and  laid  flat  and  dried  in  the 
sun.  The  entrails  are  boiled  down  into  a kind  of 
train  oil,  which  is  often  used  in  cooking  as  well  as 
for  the  lamps. 


74  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Strong  gales  from  the  sea  sometimes  so  agitate 
the  water  in  the  river  as  to  prevent  the  putting  down 
the  nets  at  the  time  when  the  greatest  number  of 
fish  are  passing.  Partly  for  want  of  skill,  and  part- 
ly owing  to  a deficiency  of  nets,  which  are  here 
generally  made  of  horsehair,  the  fishermen  do  not 
venture  to  place  them  in  the  mid  current,  where  the 
fish  are  both  most  numerous  and  of  the  largest  size. 
The  same  reasons  also  induce  them  to  confine  them- 
selves, in  a great  measure,  to  the  tributary  streams. 
During  the  floods  vast  numbers  of  fish  are  driven 
into  these  smaller  rivers  and  the  lakes  connected 
лѵііЬ  them ; and  on  their  return,  when  the  waters 
subside,  the  inhabitants  take  them  in  large  quantities 
by  means  of  weirs,  baskets,  &c.  The  whole  popu- 
lation engages  in  these  minor  fisheries,  which  are 
made  in  some  degree  common,  the  produce  being 
divided  in  due  proportion  among  the  owners  of  the 
baskets,  whereas,  in  the  larger  fishery,  the  nets  are 
drawn  in  succession,  according  to  an  established  or- 
der, and  the  fish  taken  belong  exclusively  to  the 
owner  of  the  net. 

It  is  chiefly  in  the  smaller  rivers  that  they  catch 
the  fat  tschiri,  which  are  a favourite  delicacy,  and  are 
prepared  jedomnaj a jukola.  This  differs  t^rom  the 
juchala  already  spoken  of,  by  its  being  made  only  of 
the  very  best  fish,  and  prepared  with  great  care. 
The  fish  are  split  in  halves,  the  entrails  taken  out, 
and,  in  order  that  they  may  be  more  tender  and  better 
dried,  they  are  scored  ; and  sometimes  they  are 
smoked  instead  of  being  dried.  The  upper  part  of 
the  back  is  usually  cut  off,  dried  separately,  and 
pounded  in  a wooden  mortar,  after  which  it  is  mix- 
ed with  train  oil,  and  preserved  for  the  winter  in 
wooden  vessels  with  narrow  mouths.  In  like  man- 
ner, the  under  part,  which  contains  the  most  fat,  is 
kept  by  itself,  as  it  furnishes  a favourite  addition  to 
the  cakes,  which  are  made,  not  of  meal,  but  of  the 
soft  parts  of  fresh  fish,  cut  small  and  baked. 


FISHERIES. BIRD-CHASE. 


75 


After  these  fisheries  are  over,  the  larger  fish  begin 
to  ascend  the  rivers  from  the  sea,  and  are  taken  both 
in  nets  and  baskets. 

While  the  different  fisheries  are  going  on,  the 
swans,  geese,  and  ducks  are  moulting,  and  bringing 
out  their  young  broods  on  the  lakes.  As  soon  as 
the  birds  arrive,  some  of  the  fishermen  are  sent  to 
watch  their  nests.  At  first  they  content  themselves 
with  taking  away  part  of  the  eggs,  which  are  repla- 
ced by  new-laid  ones.  The  chase  of  the  birds  does 
not  begin  until  they  are  moulting  and  unable  to  fly, 
when  a great  number  of  the  fishermen  leave  the 
rivers  and  go  to  their  breeding- places.  They  em- 
ploy trained  dogs  to  pursue  them,  and  kill  great  num- 
bers with  guns,  arrows,  and  sticks.  Part  of  them 
are  smoked,  but  the  most  are  frozen  and  preserved 
in  snow  against  the  winter.  This  chase  is  much 
less  productive  than  it  was  formerly.  Twenty  years 
ago  several  thousand  geese  were  sometimes  thus  ta- 
ken in  a single  day  ; whereas  now  it  is  called  a good 
season  when  1000  geese,  5000  ducks,  and  200  swans 
are  killed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma.*  This,  how- 
ever, does  not  arise  from  any  real  decrease  in  their 
numbers  ; but  the  people  being  busily  engaged  in  the 
fishery,  which  is  less  troublesome,  and  ordinarily 
more  certain  in  its  returns,  are  apt  to  delay  the 
chase  till  the  proper  time  for  it  is  nearly  past. 

Besides  their  stores  of  fish  and  fowl,  good  house- 
keepers provide  themselves  also  with  reindeer  meat. 
When  the  reindeer  are  in  motion  in  large  troops  in 
the  summer,  a part  of  the  hunters  go  up  the  Amiuj 
in  boats,  while  the  others  proceed  on  horseback  to 
the  shores  of  the  large  lakes  in  the  Tundra.  The 
animals  are  driven  into  the  water  by  trained  dogs, 
and  are  killed  with  spears  as  they  are  swimming. 
A skilful  hunter  may  kill  a hundred  deer  on  the  Aniuj 

* It  seems  to  be  clearly  ascertained  that  birds  of  passage  do 
not  always  visit  the  same  spot  two  years  in  succession,  but  that 
they  frequently  change  their  breeding-places. 


76  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

in  good  years,  whereas  on  the  Tundra  twenty  would 
be  a large  number,  and  perhaps  he  would  not  get 
more  than  five  ; but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  chase  on 
the  Aniuj  is  often  a complete  failure,  which  is  never 
the  case  on  the  Tundra;  the  deer  also  on  the  latter 
are  generally  larger  and  better  fed  than  those  killed 
on  the  former. 

ЛѴЬіІе  the  men  are  engaged  in  fishing  and  hunting, 
the  women  avail  themselves  of  the  brief  summer  to 
collect  what  little  the  vegetable  kingdom  can  add  to 
their  winter  provision.  I have  before  remarked 
that  the  partially-thawed  soil  produces  different  kinds 
of  berries,  and  a few  edible  roots  and  aromatic  herbs, 
particularly  in  the  mountains.  The  women  are 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  them  all,  and  collect  as 
many  as  the  more  or  less  favourable  character  of 
the  season  will  permit.  It  is  not  every  year  that 
these  poor  remnants  of  vegetation  arrive  to  maturi- 
ty. In  the  years  1821,  ’22,  and  ’23,  the  berries  failed 
so  completely  that  none  were  to  be  met  with.  Most 
of  them,  particularly  the  bilberries,  grow  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Kolyma,  and  on  the  declivity  of 
the  Pantelejew  Mountains  ; they  are  gathered  in  the 
middle  of  August.  The  berry-gathering  here,  like 
the  vintage  elsewhere,  is  a time  of  merriment.  The 
younger  women  and  girls  go  out  together  in  large 
parties,  often  passing  whole  days  and  nights  away, 
enjoying  the  open  air,  and  enlivening  their  work 
with  various  amusements.  When  the  berries  have 
been  collected,  cold  water  is  poured  over  them,  and 
they  are  preserved  in  a frozen  state  for  a winter 
luxury. 

The  only  plants  and  roots  made  use  of  are  the 
makarscha  and  wild  thyme  ; the  latter  being  employ- 
ed both  in  smoking  articles  of  food  and  as  a condi- 
ment. The  makarscha  is  a farinaceous  root,  which 
is  used  partly  as  an  addition  to  their  meat  or  fish- 
cakes, to  which  it  imparts  an  agreeable  flavour,  and 
partly  alone,  as  a kind  of  delicacy  before  supper. 


HERRING-FISHERY. 


77 


The  field-mice  lay  up  in  their  holes  large  stores  of 
this  and  of  other  roots,  and  the  women  are  particu- 
larly expert  in  discovering  these  deposites. 

In  September  the  shoals  of  herrings  begin  to  as- 
cend the  rivers,*  and  almost  all  the  population  then 
hasten  to  the  most  favourable  spots  for  catching 
them.  The  numbers  of  these  fish  are  often  so  im- 
mense, that  in  favourable  years  3000  or  more  may 
be  taken  at  a draught,  and  in  three  or  four  days 
40,000  are  sometimes  caught  with  a single  good  net. 
It  occasionally  happens,  that  during  the  three  pre- 
ceding months,  in  spite  of  the  greatest  efiorts,  the 
other  fisheries  have  yielded  the  desponding  inhab- 
itants hardly  anything,  when  a good  herring  sea- 
son comes  to  their  relief,  and  the  storehouses  are 
filled  in  a few  days.  The  herrings  are  hung  up  on 
the  scaffolds  before  the  frost  sets  in,  that  the  water 
which  is  in  them  may  drain  off  before  they  freeze. 
This  makes  them  much  lighter  for  carrying  on  jour- 
neys ; those  which  are  collected  after  the  frost  has 
commenced  become  immediately  covered  with  a 
thin  crust  of  ice,  are  inferior  in  flavour,  and  un- 
wholesome for  the  dogs. 

As  the  reindeer-hunters  return  from  the  Aniuj  and 
from  the  Tundra  about  the  time  of  the  herring-fish- 
ery, this  is  a period  of  great  animation  and  inter- 
est. If  the  chase  has  been  successful,  universal  joy 
prevails ; and  it  forms  far  a long  time  the  only  sub- 
ject of  conversation.  The  minutest  circumstances, 
every  stratagem  and  turn  of  the  pursued  reindeer, 
the  skill  of  the  hunter,  the  fleetness  and  sagacity  of 
the  dogs,  &c.,  are  all  narrated  with  as  great  exact- 
ness, and  in  as  much  detail  as  if  it  were  a question 
relating  to  the  movements  of  hostile  armies. 

As  soon  as  the  frost  sets  in,  the  summer  fisheries 

* The  largest  herrings  are  found  in  the  Kolyma;  those  in 
the  Alasej  being  smaller,  and  those  in  the  Jana  and  Indigirka 
still  less.  Hence  it  would  appear  that  the  shoals  of  these  fish 
move  from  the  west  towards  the  east. 

G2 


78  WRANGELL'S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 


are  at  an  end,  and  the  autumn  fishing  commences. 
When  the  rivers  are  frozen,  horsehair  nets  are  set 
by  cutting  an  opening  in  the  ice  across  the  stream, 
and  sinking  the  net  below.  Muksuny^  omuly  {salmo 
autumnalis),  and  nelma  (salmo  nelma)^  are  taken  in 
this  way.  This  kind  of  fishing  is  most  productive 
near  the  sea ; it  is  continued  with  more  or  less  suc- 
cess till  the  beginning  of  December,  when  the  dark- 
ness and  the  intense  cold  oblige  the  fishermen  to 
break  off  from  their  labours  and  return  to  their 
homes. 

Besides  the  hunting  and  fishing,  there  are  other 
matters  which  cannot  well  be  neglected.  Those 
who  have  horses  must  endeavour  to  make  some 
provision  of  fodder  for  them ; and  sometimes  the 
house  must  be  repaired,  or  a new  one  built.  Snares 
must  also  be  set  in  the  forest  for  the  fur  animals,* 
and  occasionally  visited : this  is  usually  done  on 
horseback,  before  there  is  any  snow,  when  the  ground 
is  hard  frozen  ; and  after  snow  has  fallen,  sledges 
and  dogs  are  used.  About  this  time  the  reindeer 
leave  the  western  side  of  the  river  and  cross  to  the 
eastern,  and  the  inhabitants  employ  a variety  of  de- 


* These  traps,  called  past,  are  a kind  of  long  box,  in  which 
the  bait  is  connected  with  the  open  lid  in  such  a manner  that  at 
the  slightest  touch  the  latter  closes  and  keeps  the  animal  shut 
up  till  the  hunter  comes.  The  Russian  inhabitants  of  Nishne 
Kolymsk  have  above  7500  such  traps  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  on  the  eastern  side,  and  in  the  Western  Tundra.  Sables 
and  foxes  are  chiefly  taken  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Kolyma, 
and  along  the  mountain-rivers  Philippowka,  Pantelejewa,  &c., 
and  stone-foxes  on  the  Western  Tundra.  The  wolverine  is 
seldom  taken,  as  he  is  strong  enough  to  break  through  the  trap 
if  caught.  A careful  hunter  visits  his  traps  at  least  ten  times  in 
a winter ; few,  however,  do  it  so  often,  and  nearly  half  the  ani- 
mals which  are  caught  are  lost  in  consequence.  The  hunters 
reckon  upon  about  one  taken  for  every  ten  traps  each  time  they 
visit  them.  A very  injurious  custom  prevails  among  the  Tun- 
gusi  and  Jukahiri  of  carrying  away  the  young  whenever  they 
find  them,  even  when  still  blind ; and  the  number  of  young 
foxes  destroyed  in  this  way  is  very  considerable. 


INTREPIDITY  OF  THE  HUNTERS. 


79 


vices  for  taking  them  in  the  passage.  Parties  also 
go  out  on  sledges  to  hunt  the  elk  and  the  wild  sheep 
on  the  Baranow  rocks,  and  others  in  chase  of  foxes, 
sables,  and  squirrels,  by  following  their  tracks  in  the 
fresh-fallen  snow  in  sledges  drawn  by  trained  dogs. 
The  latter  chase  is  pursued  more  particularly  by  the 
Ukahiri  of  the  Aniuj  and  Omolon,  who  live  in  the 
mountains  and  forests,  and  by  the  Yakuti  of  Sredne 
and  Werchne  Kolymsk. 

On  the  Tundra,  by  the  seashore,  long  rows  of 
traps,  similar  to  those  above  described,  are  set  for 
the  wandering  stone-foxes,  w^hich  are  very  abundant, 
but  their  skins  are  of  inferior  value.  They  are  par- 
ticularly numerous  every  third  year;  but  if  there 
happen  to  be  many  mice,  they  are  less  tempted  by 
the  bait,  which  is  either  a small  living  animal  or  a 
piece  of  poisoned  meat : the  latter,  however,  is  said 
to  injure  the  quality  of  the  fur.  Skill  in  setting  the 
traps  is  highly  valued,  and  the  names  of  the  best 
fur-hunters  are  known  far  and  wide ; but  those  who  . 
are  distinguished  by  success  in  chasing  the  elk  and 
the  bear,  and  who  do  not  shun  a conflict  with  these 
animals  when  necessary,  are-  held  in  still  greater  es- 
teem. The  adroitness,  courage,  and  strength  shown 
in  such  encounters  are  favourite  subjects  of  conver- 
sation, and,  apart  from  exaggeration,  some  of  the  sto- 
ries related  are  really  extraordinary.  The  following 
adventure  occurred  during  my  stay  in  the  country. 
Two  hunters,  father  and  son,  had  gone  out  on 
horseback  to  hunt  foxes ; they  had  very  poor  sport, 
and  were  returning  almost  empty-handed,  when  by 
accident  they  came  upon  a bear  in  his  den;  and, 
though  unprovided  with  proper  weapons  for  attack- 
ing him,  they  resolved  to  attempt  it.  The  father 
placed  himself  at  one  entrance  of  the  den,  and  stop- 
ped it  with  his  broad  shoulders,  while  the  son,  armed 
only  with  a light  spear,  attacked  the  animal  at  the 
other.  More  tormented  than  injured  by  the  weapon, 
the  bear  sought  to  escape  by  the  first  opening  ; b^t 


80  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

neither  his  claws  nor  his  teeth  could  pierce  the 
thick,  smooth,  well-stretched  double  fur  jacket  of  the 
stout  Juhakir,  who  kept  his  post  till  his  son  succeed- 
ed in  killing  his  formidable  adversary. 

Such  rash  enterprises  are  not  always  successful, 
however.  A Russian,  descending  the  Kolyma  alone 
in  a boat,  saw  a very  fine  elk  swimming  across 
the  river  Unwilling  to  let  so  favourable  an  oppor- 
tunity escape,  although  the  boat  was  much  too  small 
to  have  carried  the  animal  had  it  been  killed,  he 
prepared  a noose  and  threw  it  over  his  horns : he 
then  rowed  vigorously  for  the  shore,  and  while  the 
water  continued  deep,  the  elk  suffered  himself  to  be 
drawn  along  ; but,  as  soon  as  he  felt  the  ground  un- 
der his  feet,  he  rapidly  gained  the  bank,  and  made 
off  at  full  speed  for  the  neighbouring  forest,  drag- 
ging after  him  the  light  boat  and  the  unfortunate 
Russian,  who  was  some  time  before  he  could  dis- 
engage himself.  Endless  stories  of  this  kind  are 
told,  with  the  minutest  circumstances,  and  occa- 
sionally with  no  little  embellishment. 

Of  all  the  animals  in  high  northern  latitudes,  none 
are  so  deserving  of  notice  as  the  dog.  The  com- 
panion of  man  in  all  climates,  from  the  islands  of 
the  South  Sea,  where  he  feeds  on  bananas,  to  the 
Polar  Ocean,  where  he  subsists  on  fish,  he  here  acts 
a part  to  which  he  is  unaccustomed  in  more  fa- 
voured regions.  Necessity  has  taught  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  northern  countries  to  employ  these 
comparatively  weak  animals  for  draught.  On  all 
the  coasts  of  the  Polar  Sea,  from  the  Obi  to  Behr- 
ing’s Straits,  in  Greenland,  Kamtschatka,  and  in  the 
Kurile  Islands,  dogs  are  made  to  draw  the  sledges 
of  the  inhabitants,  loaded  with  their  persons  and 
with  goods,  and  for  considerable  distances. 

The  Siberian  dogs  closely  resemble  the  wolf. 
They  have  long,  pointed,  projecting  noses,  sharp  up- 
right ears,  and  a long  bushy  tail.  Some  have  smooth 
and  some  curly  hair : their  colour  is  various,  black, 


EMPLOYMENT  OF  DOGS. 


81 


brown,  reddish-brown,  white,  and  spotted.  They 
differ  also  in  size  ; but  it  is  considered  that  a good 
sledge-dog  should  not  be  less  than  two  feet  seven 
and  a half  inches  in  height,  and  three  feet  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  length  (English  measure). 

Their  barking,  too,  is  like  the  howling  of  a wolf. 
They  live  altogether  in  the  open  air : in  summer 
they  dig  holes  in  the  ground  for  coolness,  or  lie  in 
the  water  to  avoid  the  moschetoes ; and  in  winter 
they  protect  themselves  by  burrowing  in  the  snow, 
where  they  lie  curled  up,  with  their  noses  covered 
by  their  bushy  tails.  The  female  puppies  are  drown- 
ed, except  a sufficient  number  to  preserve  the  stock, 
the  males  alone  being  used  in  draught.  Those  born 
in  winter  enter  on  their  training  the  following  au- 
tumn, but  are  not  used  for  long  journeys  until  the 
third  year.  The  feeding  and  training  is  a particu- 
lar art,  and  much  skill  is  required  in  driving  and 
guiding  them.  The  best-trained  dogs  are  used  for 
leaders ; and  as  the  fleet  and  steady  going  of  the 
team,  usually  consisting  of  twelve  dogs,  and  the 
safety  of  the  traveller,  depend  on  the  sagacity  and 
docility  of  the  leader,  no  pains  are  spared  in  their 
education,  so  that  they  shall  always  obey  their  mas- 
ter’s voice,  and  not  be  tempted  from  their  course 
when  they  come  on  the  scent  of  game.  This  last 
is  a point  of  great  difficulty ; and  sometimes  the 
whole  team  will  in  such  cases  start  off,  and  no  en- 
deavours on  the  part  of  the  driver  can  stop  them. 
I have  frequently  had  occasion  to  admire  the  in- 
genious devices  practised  by  the  well-trained  leader 
to  divert  the  other  dogs  from  their  pursuit;  and, 
when  other  means  fail,  he  will  suddenly  wheel 
round,  and  by  barking,  as  if  he  had  come  on  a new 
scent,  try  to  induce  them  to  follow  him.  In  trav- 
elling across  the  wide  Tundra  in  dark  nights,  or 
when  the  vast  plain  is  veiled  in  impenetrable  mist, 
in  storms  or  in  tempests  of  snow,  when  the  travel- 
ler is  in  danger  of  missing  the  sheltering  powarna 


82  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


and  of  perishing  on  the  way,  he  frequently  owes  his 
safety  to  a good  leader.  If  the  animal  has  ever 
before  been  on  the  plain,  and  has  stopped  with  his 
master  at  the  poivarna,  he  will  be  sure  to  bring  the 
sledge  to  it,  though  deeply  buried  in  the  snow ; and 
when  he  has  reached  it  he  will  suddenly  stop,  and 
significantly  indicate  to  his  master  the  spot  where 
he  must  dig. 

Nor  are  the  dogs  scarcely  less  useful  in  summer; 
they  tow  the  boats  up  the  rivers,  and  it  is  curious 
to  observe  how  readily  they  obey  their  master’s 
voice,  either  in  halting  or  in  changing  the  bank  of 
the  stream.  On  hearing  his  call  they  plunge  in- 
stantly into  the  water,  dragging  the  towing-line  af- 
ter them,  swim  to  the  opposite  shore,  and,  on  reach- 
ing it,  replace  themselves  in  order,  and  wait  his  com- 
mand to  go  on.  Sometimes  those  who  have  no 
horses  use  dogs  instead  of  them  in  their  fowling  ex- 
cursions, to  draw  their  light  boats  from  one  lake  or 
river  to  another.  In  short,  the  dog  is  no  less  indis- 
pensable to  the  settled  inhabitant  of  this  country, 
than  is  the  tame  reindeer  to  the  nomadic  tribes ; 
and  they  so  regard  it.*  We  saw  a remarkable  in- 
stance of  this  during  the  terrible  sickness,  which 
in  the  year  1821  carried  off  the  greater  part  of  these 
useful  animals.  An  unfortunate  Juhakir  family  had 
only  two  dogs  left  out  of  twenty,  and  these  were 
just  born,  and,  indeed,  still  blind.  The  mother  dying, 
the  wife  of  the  Juhakir  determined  to  nurse  the  two 
puppies  with  her  own  child,  rather  than  lose  the 

* It  was  once  unwisely  proposed  to  forbid  the  keeping  of 
dogs  on  account  of  the  quantity  of  fish  required  for  their  sup- 
port, which  is  thus  withdrawn  from  the  food  of  the  inhabitants. 
Each  team  of  twelve  dogs  requires  daily  from  fifty  to  seventy 
herrings.  But  if  this  measure  had  been  adopted,  so  far  from  in- 
creasing the  quantity  of  food  at  the  command  of  the  inhabitants, 
it  would  have  deprived  them  of  one  of  their  chief  means  of  pro- 
curing it,  as  was  most  clearly  proved  at  the  time  of  the  great 
mortality  among  these  animals  in  1821  and  1823.  Happily,  this 
highly  injudicious  proposal  was  rejected  by  the  government. 


IN-DOOR  OCCUPATIONS. 


83 


last  remains  of  their  former  wealth.  She  did  so, 
and  was  rewarded  for  it,  for  her  two  nurslings 
lived,  and  became  the  parents  of  a new  and  vigor- 
ous progeny. 

In  the  year  1822,  when  the  inhabitants  had  lost 
most  of  their  dogs  by  the  prevailing  sickness,  they 
were  reduced  to  a melancholy  condition ; they  had 
themselves  to  draw  home  their  fuel ; both  time  and 
strength  failed  them  in  bringing  in  the  fish  they  had 
caught  in  distant  places ; while  thus  occupied,  too, 
the  season  passed  away  for  fowling  and  fur-hunting; 
and  a general  and  severe  famine,  in  which  numbers 
perished,  was  the  consequence.  Horses  can  never 
be  substituted  for  dogs,  as  the  severity  of  the  climate 
and  the  shortness  of  the  summer  make  it  impossible 
to  provide  sufficient  fodder  for  them  ; and,  besides, 
these  light  animals  move  rapidly  over  the  deep 
snow,  where  the  heavy  horse  would  sink  at  every 
step. 

Having  thus  described  the  out-of-door  employ- 
ments of  the  inhabitants  of  this  district,  let  us  ac- 
company one  of  them  into  his  habitation,  at  the  close 
of  summer,  when  he  and  his  family  rest  from  their 
laborious  efforts,  to  enjoy  domestic  life  after  their 
fashion.  The  walls  are  now  calked  afresh  with 
moss,  and  new  plastered  with  clay,  and  a solid  mound 
of  earth  is  heaped  up  on  the  outside  as  high  as  the 
windows.  All  this  is  accomplished  before  Decem- 
ber ; and  then  the  long  winter  nights  assemble  the 
members  of  the  family  around  the  hearth.  The 
light  of  the  fire,  and  that  of  one  or  more  train-oil 
lamps,  glimmer  through  the  ice  windows  ; and  from 
the  low  chimneys  rise  high  columns  of  red  smoke, 
mingled  with  bright  sparü,  thrown  off  by  the  resin- 
ous wood.  The  dogs  are  outside,  either  on  or  bur- 
rowed in  the  snow,  and  from  time  to  time  their 
howling  interrupts  the.general  silence.  It  is  so  loud 
as  to  be  heard  at  a great  distance,  and  is  usually  re- 
peated at  intervals  of  from  six  to  eight  hours,  except 


84  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

when  the  moon  shines,  when  it  is  much  more  fre- 
quent. 

A low  entrance,  over  which  hangs  the  thick  skin 
of  a white  bear  or  of  a reindeer,  leads  into  the 
dwelling-room.  There  the  father  and  his  sons  are 
seen  making  nets  of  horsehair,  and  preparing  bows, 
arrows,  spears,  &c. ; while  the  women,  seated  on 
the  benches  or  on  the  ground,  are  employed  in  sew- 
ing the  skins  which  the  men  have  brought  home  into 
different  garments,  in  doing  which  they  use  the  sin- 
ews of  the  reindeer  instead  of  thread.  Two  large 
iron  kettles  are  hanging  over  the  fire,  in  which  fish 
is  boiling  for  the  dogs.  One  of  the  women  is  en- 
gaged in  preparing  the  frugal  supper,  which  usually 
consists  either  of  fish,  or  of  reindeer  meat  boiled  or 
fried  in  train  oil.  As  an  occasional  delicacy,  they 
have  baked  cakes  of  fish-roe,  or  of  dried  and  finely- 
pounded  which  are  their  substitute  for  meal. 

The  cakes  are  sometimes  flavoured  with  finely-chop- 
ped fish-bellies,  or  with  reindeer  meat  and  powder- 
ed makairscha^  mixed  with  train  oil.  If  a travelling 
guest  chances  to  arrive,  the  best  that  the  larder  af- 
fords is  produced  ; struganina^  the  besX  jukola^  smoked 
reindeer  tongues,  melted  reindeer  fat,  frozen  Jakuti 
butter,  frozen  moros'kho^  &c.  The  table,  which 
stands  at  the  upper  end  of  the  apartment,  is  cover- 
ed, instead  of  a cloth,  with  several  folds  of  an  old 
fishing-net ; and  in  place  of  napkins,  thin  rolled-up 
shavings  of  wood  are  used  : this  last,  however,  may 
be  considered  a town  refinement.  Salt  seldom  ap- 
pears ; and  when  it  is  produced,  it  is  only  for  the 
guest : the  natives  never  use  it,  and  even  dislike  it. 
In  the  little  towns  of  Nishne  and  Sredne  Kolymsk, 
the  richer  people  have  tea  and  Chinese  sugar-candy ; 
^xAjukola  are  eaten  at  tea  instead  of  biscuit.  Bread 
is  everywhere  rare.  From  the  meal,  which  is  so 
dear  that  only  the  more  wealthy  can  buy  it,  a drink 
called  saturan  is  prepared  : the  meal  is  roasted  in  a 
pan,  and  butter  or  train  oil  mixed  with  it  so  as  to 


RELIGIOUS  FESTIVALS. 


85 


bring  it  to  a paste,  which  is  then  thinned  by  the  ad- 
dition of  boiling  water.  When  this  drink  is  careful- 
ly made,  and  with  good  butter,  it  has  an  agreeable 
flavour,  and  is  very  nourishing  and  warming  : it  may 
be  compared  to  Rumford’s  “ spare  soup.”  It  is 
drunk  hot,  like  tea,  out  of  glasses  or  cups.  Among 
the  daily  employments  of  the  young  women,  fetch- 
ing water  for  the  household  occupies  a prominent 
place  : they  go  for  this  purpose  at  certain  hours  of 
the  day  to  holes  cut  in  the  ice,  which,  like  the  fount- 
ains and  village  wells  in  Germany  and  the  rest  of 
Europe,  are  favourite  places  for  gossiping.  About 
noon  the  daughter  of  the  house  puts  on  her  best  at- 
tire, and  runs  down  to  the  river  with  her  buckets  on 
her  little  sledge,  where,  while  she  is  filling  them, 
she  hears  and  tells  the  news  of  the  day.  Occasion- 
ally some  of  the  young  men  are  present ; and  if  one 
of  them  fills  and  carries  the  water-vessels,  it  is  look- 
ed upon  as  the  omen  of  an  intended  marriage. 

Swatki*^  and  Easter  time,  and  particularly  the 
Masslaniza^  give  a temporary  animation  to  this  oth- 
erwise monotonous  life.  On  Christmas  and  Easter 
days  the  bells  ring,  and  the  inhabitants  go  to  church 
in  their  best  attire : after  the  service  is  over,  the 
priest  visits  each  cottage  separately,  and  blesses  it, 
sprinkling  it  with  holy  water.f  During  the  Swatki 
and  the  Masslaniza,  there  are  frequent  evening  par- 
ties for  conversation,  games,  singing,  and  sometimes 

* Swatki  is  the  time  from  Christmas  to  the  feast  of  the  three 
holy  kings  (twelfth  night).  Masslaniza  is  the  week  before 
Lent : both  are  seasons  of  general  festivity  throughout  Russia. 

t This  is  a general  custom  thoughout  Russia : every  new 
house,  before  it  is  occupied,  is  blessed  by  the  priest,  and  from 
time  to  time  the  ceremony  is  renewed.  Nor  is  it  confined  to 
dwellings : almost  every  kind  of  structure,  public  or  private, 
must  undergo  such  purification.  There  is  doubtless  much  of 
superstition  in  this  ceremony,  and  still  we  cannot  but  respect 
the  religious  feeling  from  which  it  is  derived  ; it  brings  to  mind 
the  saying  of  the  Psalmist : Except  the  Lord  build  the  house,  they 
labour  in  vain  that  build  it. — Am  Ed. 

H 


86  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

dancing,  for  which  last,  however,  their  huts  are  but 
poorly  adapted.  On  these  occasions  they  have  a 
supper,  at  which  tea  is  drunk  in  great  quantities, 
ten  cups  apiece  being  quite  common ; of  course  it 
is  taken  without  milk,  and  almost  without  sugar,  on 
account  of  its  great  price,  one  little  piece  only  be- 
ing given  to  each  individual,  which  suffices  him  for 
all  that  he  drinks.  A few  rich  people  make  use  of 
teapots ; but  generally  the  tea  is  boiled  ia  a large 
kettle,  to  make  it  go  farther.  Next  to  tea,  brandy 
is  in  the  greatest  request  at  these  parties,  and  is 
sometimes  drunk  in  large  quantities,  notwithstanding 
its  very  high  price. 

At  the  Masslaniza^  they  indulge  in  the  Russian 
pastimes  of  sledging  and  sliding  down  ice-hills ; a 
curious  tribute  to  national  customs,  inasmuch  as 
they  never  drive  in  any  other  vehicles  than  sledges, 
and  over  no  other  roads  than  snow  and  ice. 

Such  is  the  monotonous  life  of  the  inhabitants  of 
these  icy  deserts.  Happily  for  them,  they  have  no 
idea  of  any  other  enjoyments ; and  if  the  fisheries 
and  hunting  excursions  have  been  productive,  so 
that  they  are  safe  from  hunger,  and  if  tea  and  bran- 
dy are  not  wanting,  they  are  content,  and  in  their 
way  to  a certain  degree  happy.  The  inhabitants 
of  Nishne  Kolymsk  are  a vigorous  race,  usually 
above  the  middle  height,  and  well  looking.  They 
have  few  diseases,  and  one  sees  among  them  many 
who  have  preserved  their  activity  to  old  age.  This 
is  probably  due  in  a great  measure  to  the  necessity 
they  are  under  of  taking  strong  exercise,  and  of  be- 
ing much  in  the  open  air.  The  walking  in  snow- 
shoes  is  particularly  beneficial,  by  bringing  the  mus- 
cular powers  into  full  action.  The  scurvy,  which 
rages  so  dreadfully  to  the  westward,  is  very  rare 
here,  which  may  be  owing,  possibly,  to  the  provis- 
ions being  frozen  instead  of  salted. 


NISHNE  KOLYMSK. 


87 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Nishne  Kolymsk. — Domestic  Arrangements. — Preparations  for 
Prosecuting  the  Objects  of  the  Expedition. — Well-founded 
Doubts  respecting  the  Discoveries  of  Sergeant  Andrejew. — Ar- 
rival of  the  English  Traveller,  Captain  Cochrane. — The  New 
Year. — Evening  Party, — Arrival  of  the  Pilot  Kosmin.— Prep- 
arations for  a Journey  with  Dogs  and  Sledges. — Necessary 
Deviation  from  the  Original  Plan. — Tidings  of  the  Arrival  of 
the  Tschuktschi  on  the  Lesser  Aniuj. — Departure  of  M.  Mati- 
uschkin  for  Ostrownoje. 

Nishne  Kolymsk  was  founded,  according  to  Fish- 
er, in  1644,  on  the  northern  arm  of  the  river,  where 
a small  fortress  or  ostrog^  a church,  and  some  jurti 
were  built.  The  settlement  was  subsequently  re- 
moved to  its  present  site,  on  a low  island  in  the  oth- 
er branch,  which  is  of  more  convenient  access.  It 
is  situated,  according  to  our  observations,  in  lat.  68o 
32',  and  long.  160°  35Л  The  variation  of  the  magnet- 
ic needle  is  here  9o  56^  E.,  and  the  dip  77°  33F  N. 

The  river  at  this  place  is  three  wersts  broad. 
The  view  to  the  south  is  bounded  by  the  Aniuj 
Mountains,  which  are  connected  with  the  Pantelejew 
range,  and  the  Surowoj  rocks  : to  the  north  and 
west  the  eye  loses  itself  in  the  barren  Tundra.  The 
ostrog  consists  of  a wooden  palisade,  with  small 
towers  at  the  four  corners,  and  within  which  is  a 
large  building,  where  the  authorities  of  the  place  re- 
side, and  where  there  are  magazines  for  the  most 
part  empty  : two  of  these  still  contain  some  stores 
which  were  prepared  for  the  expedition  of  Lieuten- 
ant Laptew*  in  1739,  and  for  the  vessels  of  Captains 

* Laptew  spent  three  years  in  examining  the  coast  west  of 
the  Lena. — Am,  Ed, 


88  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


Billings  and  Sarytschew.  Besides  the  ostrog^  the 
village  consists  of  a church  and  forty-two  houses. 

My  house,  which  was  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
place,  consisted  of  two  rooms,  each  twelve  feet 
square.  The  outer  room,  with  a stove,  was  assign- 
ed to  my  attendants,  and  served  also  as  a kitchen  ; 
the  inner  one,  which  had  an  open  hearth,  I took  for 
myself : each  room  had  a small  window  with  a thick 
plate  of  ice.  A bench  for  a bed,  a little  rickety  ta- 
ble, and  a wooden  stool,  constituted  my  furniture  : 
a porch  which  I built  outside  somewhat  lessened 
the  cold  of  the  house,  and  was  very  useful  as  a 
storeroom. 

Half  an  hour  after  my  arrival,  M.  Matiuschkin  re- 
turned from  the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma,  where  he  had 
been  to  see  what  could  be  spared  to  us  from  the 
produce  of  the  fishery.  It  may  well  be  supposed 
that  we  were  not  a little  rejoiced  to  meet,  and  that 
we  had  a thousand  things  to  ask  and  to  tell  each 
other.  To  my  great  disappointment,  I learned  that 
when  he  arrived  at  Sredne  Kolymsk,  on  the  2d  of 
October,  he  found  that  the  commissioner  of  that 
place  had  not  even  begun  to  execute  the  instructions 
which  he  had  received  in  the  summer  from  the  gov- 
ernor at  Jakuzk  relative  to  our  expedition.  No 
store  of  fish  had  been  procured,  nor  any  materials 
for  the  erection  of  an  observatory  ; neither  had  any 
steps  been  taken,  as  I had  desired,  towards  the  es- 
tablishment of  a winter-house  and  deposite  of  pro- 
visions at  the  Baranow  rocks.  The  commissioner’s 
only  excuse  was,  that  he  had  not  supposed  we 
should  actually  arrive  this  year. 

Our  operations  must  have  been  even  more  seri- 
ously deranged  than  they  were  by  this  neglect,  but 
for  the  energetic  and  successful  exertions  of  M.  Ma- 
tiuschkin. During  his  short  stay  he  had  collected 
more  than  half  the  necessary  provision  of  fish  ; and 
in  spite  of  the  intense  cold,  which  made  the  carpen- 
ter’s axe  snap  like  glass,  he  had  got  a tower  erected 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY.  89 


on  the  flat  roof  of  my  house  for  an  observatory, 
with  windows  to  the  four  cardinal  points.  It  was 
completed  a few  days  after  my  arrival,  and  the  in- 
struments for  the  necessary  astronomical  observa- 
tions placed  in  it.  My  first  care  was  directed  to  ob- 
taining what  was  necessary  for  our  journey ; and 
for  this  purpose  I invited  the  richest  people  of  the 
place,  and  the  elders  of  the  different  tribes  along  the 
neighbouring  rivers,  to  meet  me  on  an  appointed 
day.  They  came  on  the  25th  of  November,  and  our 
first  step  was  to  form  a tariff  of  prices,  which  was 
entirely  satisfactory  to  the  inhabitants.  We  next 
discussed  what  articles  each  would  be  able  to  fur- 
nish, and  at  what  time.  The  Jukahiri  of  the  Aniuj, 
who  had  had  a very  successful  reindeer  hunt,  were 
to  supply  the  skins  necessary  for  a winter  tent, 
and  a great  quantity  of  reindeer  bones,  which  were 
to  be  pounded  for  the  dogs.  The  Jukahiri  of  the 
Omolon  offered  to  provide  a good  boat,  built  of 
birch-wood,  and  the  materials  for  making  sledges  ; 
and  the  settlers  along  the  Kolyma  were  to  furnish 
frozen  fish.  The  dried  fish  had  to  be  brought  from 
800  worsts  up  the  river,  where  the  fishery  had  been 
more  productive  than  near  the  mouth.  There  still 
remained  a most  essential  point,  the  providing  a 
sufficient  number  of  good  dogs  to  draw  the  sledges. 
This  was  undertaken  by  a Cossack  who  had  accom- 
panied M.  Hedenstrom,  and  who  was  generally  con- 
sidered to  have  more  knowledge  than  any  one  else 
of  the  qualities  and  the  proper  management  of  these 
animals. 

Everything  was  now  in  train,  and  nothing  re- 
mained but  that  they  should  all  fulfil  their  engage- 
ments. I met  with  many  difficulties  in  this  respect, 
however,  which  were  increased  by  a sort  of  distrust 
entertained  by  the  people  in  respect  to  payment, 
and  by  the  want  of  good-will  on  the  part  of  the  lo- 
cal authorities.  The  commissioner  of  the  district 
made  every  effort  to  discourage  us.  He  represent 


90  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ed  the  poverty  of  the  inhabitants  to  be  such,  that 
our  extensive  demands  would  overburden  their  re- 
sources ; and  described,  in  the  most  exaggerated 
terms,  the  difficulties  and  dangers  we  should  have  to 
encounter.  He  assured  us  the  dogs  were  too  weak, 
and  their  drivers  inexperienced  and  untrustworthy ; 
and  dwelt  on  the  barbarity  of  the  Tschuktschi, 
whom  he  described  as  the  most  dangerous  and  cruel 
of  men.  Though  I attached  but  little  importance  to 
his  accounts  of  the  perils  that  awaited  us,  I did  not 
feel  at  liberty,  without  farther  knowledge  of  the 
subject,  to  disregard  his  repeated  representations  of 
the  injury  which  he  said  would  be  done  to  the  in- 
habitants by  complying  with  my  requisitions.  I ac- 
cordingly abated  them  so  much  that  we  ourselves 
subsequently  suffered.  In  the  following  years,  how- 
ever, when  I had  become  well  acquainted  with  the 
circumstances  of  the  country,  I found  that  I could 
procure  all  that  was  necessary  for  the  expedition, 
not  only  without  injury,  but  with  positive  advan- 
tage to  the  inhabitants. 

My  instructions  from  the  Admiralty  directed  that 
we  should  proceed  the  first  year  to  Cape  Schelag- 
skoj,  where  the  expedition  was  to  be  divided  into 
two  parts ; that  with  one  of  these  I should  advance 
in  search  of  the  Northern  land,  which  the  Cossack 
Andrejew  was  supposed  to  have  seen,  and  that  the 
other  division,  with  an  officer,  should  continue  the 
examination  of  the  coast  as  far  to  the  eastward  as 
circumstances  would  permit.  To  do  this  we  should 
require  fifty  sledges,  six  hundred  dogs,  and  at  least 
forty  days’  provision;  and  as  it  was  necessary  to 
start  in  February,  there  remained  only  three  months 
for  preparation. 

We  endeavoured  to  collect  from  the  inhabitants 
all  the  information  they  could  give  us  relative  to 
the  country,  and  everything  that  was  remembered 
among  them  respecting  earlier  travellers,  having 
any  bearing  on  the  objects  we  had  in  view.  They 


DISCOVERIES  OF  ANDREJEW. 


91 


knew  a great  deal  about  the  three  officers*  who 
were  here  in  1767,  but  could  tell  us  very  little  about 
Sergeant  Andrejew,  who  was  here  only  five  years 
before,  i.  e.,  in  1762.  They  had  learned,  generally, 
that  he  had  been  to  the  Indigirka,  and  afterward  to 
the  Bear  Islands,  but  were  ignorant  of  his  supposed 
discoveries,  which  were  included  in  our  most  recent 
charts ; and  when  we  spoke  of  a land  north  of  the 
Bear  Islands,  and  of  traces  of  a numerous  nomade 
race  in  that  direction,  they  treated  it  as  a fable. 
Some  of  their  own  people  had  accompanied  Andre- 
jew on  that  journey : how  then  could  the  discovery 
and  existence  of  a large  inhabited  land  have  been 
either  unknown  or  forgotten  among  them  Many 
circumstances  were  related  to  us  respecting  Paw- 
luzki’s  proceedings  as  early  as  1731. 

These  and  similar  inquiries,  the  duties  of  the  ob- 
servatory, practising  in  driving  sledges,  experiments 
on  the  distances  which  our  dogs  could  travel  in  a 
given  time,  and  various  other  preparations  for  our 
journey,  so  fully  occupied  us,  that  the  time  passed 
rapidly  away.  The  polar  night  had  set  in  on  the 
22d  of  November ; and  the  beauty  of  the  varied 
forms  of  the  Aurora,  seen  on  the  deep  azure  of  the 
clear  northern  sky,  was  a source  of  unwearied  en- 
joyment to  us  almost  every  evening. 

On  the  2d  of  December,  probably  in  consequence 
of  the  violent  west  and  northwest  winds,  the  water 
from  the  sea  was  suddenly  driven  into  the  Kolyma 
with  such  force  as  to  produce  an  opposite  current 
to  that  of  the  river,  flooding  the  banks,  breaking  up 
the  ice,  and  carrying  away  the  fishing-nets  which 

* Geodets  Leontjew,  Lyssow,  and  Pushkarow. 

t The  account  given  by  Andrejew  was,  that,  after  driving  to 
the  north,  on  the  ice,  about  fifty  worsts  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Krestowoi,  they  discovered  a group  of  inhabited  islands,  con- 
taining traces  of  a much  more  numerous  population  at  some 
former  period  : among  other  things,  he  mentions  the  remains  of 
a fort. — Am.  Ed. 


92  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

had  been  placed  beneath  it.  The  owners  of  the  nets 
comforted  themselves  with  the  hope,  however,  that 
the  influx  of  water  would  bring  with  it  such  a quan- 
tity of  fish,  that  the  increased  productiveness  of  the 
winter-fishery  would  more  than  compensate  for  the 
loss  of  their  nets  ; and  so  it  proved. 

The  31st  of  December  surprised  us  with  the  ar- 
rival of  the  well-known  English  pedestrian.  Captain 
Cochrane.*  We  were  all  not  a little  pleased  by  this 
agreeable  addition  to  our  very  limited  circle ; sub- 
jects of  conversation  were  abundant,  and  we  sat 
talking  till  long  after  the  beginning  of  the  new  year, 
which  came  in  with  a temperature  of — 51°. 

The  noonday  sun,  which  ought  to  have  been  just 
visible  above  the  horizon,  was  intercepted  by  the 
hills  which  bound  the  plain ; a gray  mist  lay  heavy 
on  the  snow-covered  surface  ; the  sky  became  of  a 
whitish  colour,  and  the  cold  increased  on  the  3d  and 
4th  of  January  to  — 55^,  and  on  the  5th  the  ther- 
mometer stood  for  twenty- four  hours  at  — 57^. 
Breathing  became  difficult,  and  the  panes  of  ice  in 
the  windows  cracked.  Though  sitting  close  to  a 
large  fire,  we  were  not  able  to  lay  aside  any  part  of 
our  fur-clothing ; and  when  I wanted  to  write  I had 
to  keep  the  inkstand  in  hot  water.  At  night,  when 
the  fire  was  allowed  to  go  out  for  a short  time,  our 
bedclothes  became  covered  with  a thick  snow-like 
rime,  and  my  guest,  in  particular,  always  complained 
in  the  morning  that  his  nose  was  frozen. 

The  nearest  mountains  to  the  south  appeared  un- 
der all  sorts  of  singular  forms,  and  the  more  distant 

* He  had  not  only  been  hospitably  entertained  everywhere  by 
the  way,  but  the  governor  at  Jakuzk  had  given  him  a Cossack 
to  accompany  him  to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  and  that  part  of  his  foot- 
journey,  at  least,  was  made  on  horseback  and  in  sledges,  free 
of  expense.  He  expressed  a wish  to  join  our  expedition  over 
the  ice  ; but  the  great  difficulty  of  obtaining  means  of  transport, 
provisions,  &c.,  for  each  individual,  made  me  consider  it  advisa- 
ble to  decline  the  offer. 


CELEBRATION  OF  TWELFTH  NIGHT.  93 

ones  as  though  they  were  inverted,  with  their  sum- 
mits downward  ; while  the  river  was  apparently 
narrowed  to  such  a degree,  that  the  opposite  bank 
seemed  to  be  close  in  front  of  our  houses. 

As  the  continued  intensity  of  the  cold  made  it 
impossible  to  go  on  with  their  business  of  placing 
nets  under  the  ice,  the  inhabitants  returned  from 
fishing  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Still  the  street 
seemed  deserted,  for  no  one  who  could  help  it  stir- 
red from  the  fireside ; late  in  the  evening  especial- 
ly, when  the  deathlike  silence  was  only  broken,  at 
regular  intervals,  by  the  howling  of  some  hundreds 
of  sledge-dogs. 

We  were  told  that  in  former  years,  when  the  fish- 
eries were  more  productive,  and  great  numbers  of 
elks  visited  the  Kolmya,  Nishne  Kolymsk  had  been 
remarkable  for  its  winter-festivities;  but  the  inhabi- 
tants complained  that  these  were  quite  at  an  end. 
To  afford  them  a little  enjoyment  in  this  way,  and 
to  show  our  guest  some  of  the  amusements  of  the 
place,  I invited  all  the  principal  inhabitants  for 
Twelfth  Night,  and  engaged  for  the  evening  one  of 
the  best  and  roomiest  houses,  which  belonged  to  a 
Cossack  who  could  play  the  violin.  The  assembly- 
room,  which  was  about  eighteen  feet  square,  was 
lighted  up  with  train-oil  lamps,  the  walls  were  or- 
namented with  a little  drapery,  and  the  floor  was 
strewed  with  yellow  sand.  The  refreshments  for 
the  ladies  were  tea,  some  lumps  of  white  sugar, 
and  cedar-nuts.  The  supper  consisted  of  fish-cakes, 
struganina^  dried  fish,  and  frozen  reindeer  marrow. 
Our  guests  arrived  at  five  o’clock,  in  their  best  furs, 
and,  after  the  first  burst  of  admiration  at  our  ar- 
rangements, the  ladies  took  their  seats  and  began 
to  sing  national  songs  ; afterward  the  younger  ones 
played  at  various  games,  and  danced  with  slow  and 
apparently  laborious  effort  to  the  sound  of  the  old 
hunter's  violin.  At  ten  o’clock  the  company  took 
their  leave,  with  endless  thanks  for  their  entertain- 


94  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ment ; nor  were  these  mere  words  of  course,  for  a 
year  or  two  after  they  still  spoke  of  our  agreeable 
and  brilliant  party  as  a bright  spot  in  iheir  remem- 
brance. 

Next  day  we  went  to  visit  the  remains  of  the  two 
vessels  of  Captain  Billings,  which  a flood  had  car- 
ried to  some  distance  inland  from  the  river.  Though 
they  had  been  exposed  for  nearly  fifty  years  to  the 
weather,  the  wood  was  still  sound. 

On  the  2d  of  February,  the  pilot  Kosmin  arrived 
with  a large  quantity  of  necessaries  for  the  expedi- 
tion, which  he  had  brought  from  Jakuzk.  He  had 
taken  advantage  of  the  slowness  of  his  journey  to 
draw  up  an  exact  topographical  description  of  the 
almost  unknown  country  through  which  he  passed. 

Besides  more  important  matters,  he  brought  us  a 
welcome  and  long-untasted  addition  to  our  very 
scanty  bill  of  fare,  namely,  forty  pounds  of  frozen 
reindeer  meat,  and  some  milk  and  cream  frozen,  as 
is  customary  in  Siberia,  in  round  cakes,  which  keep 
good  for  a long  time. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  most  animated  pe- 
riod of  the  year  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  namely,  when 
the  caravan  from  Jakuzk,  consisting  of  about  twen- 
ty merchants,  each  with  from  ten  to  forty  horses 
loaded  лѵіШ  goods,  halt  here  for  a few  days,  on  their 
way  to  the  great  Tschuktschi  fair  at  Ostrownoje,  and 
dispose  of  part  of  their  wares  to  the  inhabitants  of 
the  district,  who  assemble  from  a great  distance. 
The  richer  traders  now  hasten  their  return  from  the 
banks  of  the  Omolon,  where  they  have  passed  the 
month  of  January  in  obtaining  from  the  wandering 
Tungusi  a large  quantity  of  furs  in  exchange  for  a 
little  tea,  tobacco,  and  brandy.  The  Tungusi  have 
a strong  passion  for  the  latter,  and  the  traders  too 
often  avail  themselves  to  the  utmost  of  this  weak- 
ness. 

The  prices  this  year  were  : 


PRICES  OF  FURS. 


95 


Red  fox 

Roubles. 

8 to  10 

Black  fox 

50  “ 

150 

White  stone-fox 

2|  “ 

3 

Blue  fox 

7 “ 

10 

Sable* 

10  “ 

25 

The  prices  of  the  principal  articles  brought  by  the 
Jakuzk  merchants  were  as  follows  : 

Roubles. 

1 lb.  Circassian  leaf  tobacco 

3i 

1 lb.  white  sugar 

1 lb.  Chinese  sugar-candy  . . . • 

3 

1 lb.  of  tea  of  an  inferior  quality 

9 

1 lb.  of  fine  thread 

1 piece  of  kitajka  (Chinese  cotton),  7 yards, 

or  9 

31 

arschinsf  ....... 

10 

1 piece  of  half-silk  stuff,  about  17  yards  . 

50 

1 arschin  of  coarse  linen  .... 

1 

1 figured  cotton  handkerchief  . 

6 

The  superintendent  of  the  district  usually  arrives 
soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  fair,  for  the  purpose 
of  embracing  this  favourable  opportunity  for  collect- 
ing the  crown  dues : he  likewise  examines  and  de- 
cides any  differences  there  may  be  among  the  in- 
habitants ; and  thus  his  visit,  by  giving  scope  to 
their  litigious  disposition,  often  brings  dissension 
where  cheerfulness  and  harmony  before  prevailed. 
Meanwhile  we  had  succeeded  in  obtaining  a large 
quantity  of  fish  for  ourselves  and  our  dogs.  The 
supply  for  the  latter  was  estimated  at  81,944  her- 
rings. J 

As  the  time  for  our  departure  approached,  I found 
that  it  would  be  impossible  to  obtain  for  another 

* The  prices  of  sables  vary  greatly  in  different  years.  In 
1821  a fine  skin  cost  40  roubles,  and  in  the  following  year  only 
15  roubles. 

t The  Russian  arschin  is  twenty-eight  inches. 

t It  included  also  a quantity  of  reindeer  bones.  It  is  customary 
here,  in  estimating  such  supplies,  to  reduce  every  sort  of  provis- 
ion for  dogs  to  an  equivalent  number  of  herrings,  eight  or  ten 
of  which  are  considered,  when  dried,  a proper  daily  allowance 
for  a sledge-dog. 


96  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

month  the  necessary  number  of  drivers,  sledges,  and, 
above  all,  of  dogs,  for  our  intended  expedition.  Un- 
der these  circumstances  I decided  on  employing  the 
intervening  time  in  surveying  the  coast  to  the  east- 
ward as  far  as  our  means  would  permit,  with  the  few 
sledges  which  were  ready,  and  on  sending  M.  Mati- 
uschkin  for  the  same  period  to  Ostrownoje,  to  gain 
some  knowledge  of  the  Tschuktschi  who  were  accus- 
tomed to  resort  there  to  the  fair,  and  to  purchase  from 
them*  walrus  skins  and  whalebone  for  our  sledges. 
But  that  which  I especially  recommended  to  him 
was  to  endeavour  to  establish  a friendly  understand- 
ing with  that  suspicious  people,  and  to  tranquillize 
their  minds  as  to  the  object  of  our  visit  to  their 
shores,  by  informing  them  that  we  were  in  search 
of  a navigable  passage  by  which  ships  would  be  able 
to  bring  them  a larger  and  cheaper  supply  of  tobac- 
co and  other  articles.  He  also  took  with  him  a 
good  stock  of  tobacco,  beads,  scissors,  &c.,  &c.,  as 
presents  to  their  chiefs. 

On  the  14th  of  February  I despatched  my  three 
travelling-sledges,  with  the  proper  number  of  dogs, 
under  the  care  of  three  Cossacks,  one  of  whom  un- 
derstood the  Tschuktschi  language,  to  an  island  at 
the  mouth  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Kolyma, 
where  our  provisions  were  already  deposited.  While 
waiting  my  arrival,  the  dogs  were  to  be  given  good 
food  and  ample  rest,  to  improve  their  condition  to 
the  utmost. 

A few  days  afterward,  the  Cossack  who  had  been 
sent  by  the  superintendent  to  Ostrownoje  to  give 
notice  of  the  approach  of  the  Tschuktschi,  returned 
with  information  that  a small  party  from  Tschaun 

* Thongs  of  walrus  skin  are  used  here  instead  of  iron  fasten- 
ings, and  are  very  durable  : pieces  of  whalebone  under  the 
wooden  runners  make  the  sledge  glide  along  the  ice  far  more 
smoothly,  nor  are  they  so  liable  as  wood  to  be  injured  by  the 
salt  which  is  left  on  it,  in  places  where,  it  has  been  overflowed 
by  sea- water. 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  JAKUZK  MERCHANTS.  97 

Bay  had  arrived  on  the  8th  of  February  within  90 
wersts  of  Ostrownoje,  and  that  they  were  the  fore- 
runners of  a much  more  numerous  caravan  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Behring’s  Straits.  The  Jakuzk 
merchants  accordingly  soon  took  their  departure  in 
hired  sledges  ; they  were  accompanied  by  the  super- 
intendent, and  were  followed  on  the  4th  of  March  by 
Captain  Cochrane  and  M.  Matiuschkin.*  Captain 
Cochrane  intended  to  join  the  Tschuktschi  caravan 
on  their  return  to  Tschukotskoj  Noss  and  Behring’s 
Straits,  and  to  cross  over  from  thence  to  the  north- 
west coast  of  America ; but  when  he  became  better 
acquainted  with  the  character  of  this  people,  he 
gave  up  his  plan  and  returned  to  Nishne  Kolymsk 


CHAPTER  V. 

First  Ice-journey  in  Sledges  over  the  Sea.— -Departure  from 
Nishne  Kolymsk. — Sucharnoje  Island. — Baranow  Rocks. — 
Flat,  low  Coast. — Great  Baranow  River. — Cold. — First  Tra- 
ces of  the  Tschuktschi. — Meteor. — Cape  Schelagskoj. — Kos- 
min  Rock. — Wollok. — Cape  Matiuschkin. — Arautan Island. — 
Loss  of  Provisions. — Return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk. 

The  seacoast  from  the  Kolyma  to  Cape  Schelag- 
skoj is  wholly  uninhabited ; on  the  one  side  the  oc- 
sional  excursions  of  the  Russians  terminate  at  the 
Baranow  Rocks,  and  on  the  other  the  Tschuktschi 
do  not  cross  the  larger  Baranow  River.  The  inter- 
vening eighty  wersts  of  coast  are  consequently  un- 
visited. The  wide  mossy  plains  and  valleys  inland 
are  wandered  over  by  those  warlike  Tschuktschi 
who  have  maintained  their  independence,  and  who 
bring  with  them  immense  herds  of  reindeer.  Stran- 

* The  distance  to  Ostrownoje  is  250  wersts ; and  the  usual 
price  of  a sledge  for  the  journey  from  Kolymsk  and  back  is  about 
100  roubles. 

I 


98  wuangell’s  polar  expedition. 

gers  they  regard  with  great  suspicion,  and  melan- 
choly examples  have  shown  the  dangers  incurred  by 
intruding  upon  their  territory.  Our  sledge-drivers 
were  not  entirely  free  from  the  fear  of  these  people 
generally  entertained  by  the  inhabitants  of  Kolymsk. 
The  party  consisted  of  M.  Kosmin  and  myself,  and 
the  drivers  of  nine  sledges.  Only  three  of  the  lat- 
ter were  to  accompany  us  the  whole  way;  the  other 
six  were  to  return  with  their  sledges  as  soon  as  the 
provisions  they  carried  should  be  disposed  of. 

We  left  Nishne  Kolymsk  on  the  19th  of  February, 
and  on  the  21st  we  reached  Sucharnoje  Island,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma,  where  the  rest  of  our 
party  were  waiting  for  us.  The  next  day  was  em- 
ployed in  arranging  our  loads,  the  different  articles 
we  had  to  carry  being  as  follows : a conical  tent  of 
reindeer  skin,  with  a light  framework  formed  of  six 
long,  thin  poles,  two  hatchets,  an  iron  plate  on 
which  we  could  light  a fire,  a trivet,  a soup-kettle,  a 
tea-kettle,  a pocket-lantern  with  a few  wax  candles, 
some  changes  of  linen,  a bearskin  apiece  to  sleep 
on,  and  a double  reindeer  skin  coverlet  for  every  two 
persons.  Our  instruments  were,  two  chronometers, 
a seconds’  watch,  a sex,tant  and  artificial  horizon,  a 
spirit  thermometer,  three  azimuth  compasses,  one  of 
which  had  a prism,  two  telescopes,  a measuring-line, 
and  a few  other  trifles.  The  provisions  for  five  men 
for  one  month  were,  100  lbs.  of  rye  biscuit,  60  lbs. 
of  meat,  10  lbs.  of  portable  soup,  2 lbs.  of  tea,  4 lbs. 
of  sugar-candy,  8 lbs.  of  grits,  3 lbs.  of  salt,  39  ra- 
tions of  spirits,  12  lbs.  of  tobacco,  and  200  of  the 
best  smoked  juchala^  each  equivalent  to  about  five 
herrings.  Our  clothing  consisted  of  a parka,*  a large 
kuchlanka,\edX\iBY  boots  lined  with  fur,  a fur  cap,  and 
gloves  of  reindeer  skin.  We  had  each  a gun  and 
fifty  cartridges,  a pike,  a large  knife  worn  in  the  gir- 
dle, and  the  means  of  striking  fire.  For  our  dogs  we 


* The  reindeer  skin  shirt  described  in  page  68. 


MANNER  OF  DRIVING. 


99 


had  2400  frozen  fresh  herrings,  790  large  muksun, 
juchala,  and  1200  jukola^  equivalent  in  all  to  about 
8150  dried  herrings.  The  six  provision-sledges-car- 
ried  the  greater  part  of  the  stores,  but  a portion  was 
also  placed  on  the  travelling  ones.  The  loading  of 
each  sledge,  weighing  about  25  pood  (900  lbs.  avoir- 
dupois), was  distributed  along  its  entire  length,  and 
covered  with  leather.  The  whole  was  bound  so 
tightly  together  with  thongs  that  the  vehicle  might 
be  overturned  without  anything  being  displaced  or 
injured.  The  driver  of  the  sledge  sits  sideways  on 
the  middle  of  it,  or,  rather,  poises  himself  with  his 
feet  on  the  runners,  ready  at  any  instant  to  spring  off 
to  preserve  or  restore  the  equilibrium,  holding  on  by 
a thong  stretched  lengthways  of  the  sledge  for  that 
purpose.  He  also  carries  a large  stick,  pointed  with 
iron  at  one  end,  and  having  bells  at  the  other,  which 
he  uses  for  guiding  and  driving  the  dogs,  and  which 
sometimes  serves  him  for  a support.  It  was  in  this 
manner  that  M.  Kosmin  and  myself  each  sat  behind 
our  driver,  ready,  like  him,  to  spring  from  tlie  sledge 
whenever  it  lost  its  balance,  which  was  continually 
happening,  as  the  track  was  often  very  uneven. 
Though  the  sledges  were  thus  heavily  loaded,  they 
glided  so  smoothly  over  the  hard-frozen  snow  that 
it  was  not  difficult  to  push  them  along  with  one 
hand ; and  when  the  surface  was  even,  the  dogs 
\vent  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  wersts  an  hour. 

On  the  21st  of  February  the  temperature  was 
— 260 ; but  it  rose  at  noon  to  0o.5.  Though  the 
sun  was  still  very  low,  M.  Kosmin  succeeded  in  ta- 
king a meridian  altitude  (using  the  artificial  horizon), 
and  found  the  latitude  to  be  69^  3F.  By  trigonomet- 
rical measurement  from  Nishne  Kolymsk,  Suchar- 
noje  is  in  the  longitude  of  161°  44^ : the  variation  of 
the  magnetic  needle  was  13|o  E. 

On  the  22d  the  provision-sledges  started  at  day- 
break for  the  lesser  Baranow  Rock,  forty-one  wersts 
distant,  and  we  followed  soon  after.  We  had  ar- 


100  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ranged  that  my  sledge  should  always  lead  the  way, 
and  that  M.  Kosmin'’s  should  bring  up  the  rear. 
Each  of  us  observed  the  direction  of  the  course,  and 
estimated  the  distances  from  point  to  point  accord- 
ing to  the  paces  of  the  dogs,  with  which  we  had 
made  ourselves  acquainted  by  experiments  at  Nish- 
ne  Kolymsk. 

Instead  of  going  round  Bear  Cape,  we  crossed  the 
isthmus  which  connects  it  with  the  Continent.  The 
snow  was  hard  and  even,  and  our  dogs  ran  so  fast 
that  the  sledges  often  overset  in  spite  of  all  the  bal- 
ancing of  our  drivers.  At  half  past  three  we  arrived 
at  the  powarna  where  we  were  to  sleep.  It  was  on 
the  bank  of  a small  river,  and  near  a large  wooden 
cross  erected  by  Captain  Billings,  and  still  in  good 
preservation.  The  provision-sledges,  which  started 
nearly  two  hours  before  us,  did  not  arrive  till  later, 
owing  to  the  inferiority  of  their  dogs.  Seen  from 
this  place,  the  ice  of  the  sea  appeared  smooth,  a 
thick  mist  preventing  a view  of  the  horizon  to  the 
north. 

Finding  our  lodging  filled  with  snow  and  ice, 
which  it  would  have  required  too  much  time  to  re- 
move through  the  door,  we  took  off  the  boards 
which  served  as  a roof,  and  in  less  than  half  an  hour 
we  had  cleared  away  the  snow,  replaced  the  roof, 
and  lighted  a fire.  Unfortunately,  the  hut  was  so 
small  that  only  four  persons  could  be  accommodated 
in  it,  and  they  were  so  close  to  the  fire  as  to  singe 
their  clothes  : the  other  seven  were  obliged  to  sleep 
in  the  tent,  where  they  were  less  warm,  but  much 
drier,  as  the  melting  snow  ran  in  streams  down  the 
\valls  of  the  hut. 

We  passed  the  evening  in  entering  and  comparing 
our  observations,  which  we  found,  to  our  great  sat- 
isfaction, agreed  extremely  well  with  the  very  exact 
survey  of  this  part  of  the  coast  by  Captain  Billings  ; 
thus  convincing  us  that  we  might  place  confidence 
in  the  accuracy  of  the  methods  we  had  adopted. 


GREATER  BARANOW  ROCK. 


101 


The  seacoast  had  been  hitherto  everywhere  flat  ex- 
cept at  the  promontories  and  projecting  tongues  of 
land,  which  form  steep,  rocky  elevations.  The  right 
bank  of  the  Kolyma,  which  consists  principally  of 
black  slate,  was  covered  with  driftwood ; and  nine 
or  ten  miles  from  the  Balagan,  at  Siicharnoje,  we 
saw  a wooden  tower  erected  by  Lieutenant  Laptew 
in  1739,  to  serve  as  a landmark  on  entering  the  river 
from  the  sea. 

We  resumed  our  journey  the  next  morning  at  day- 
break ; the  weather  being  clear  and  pleasant,  with  a 
light  breeze  from  the  S.W.,  the  thermometer  at 
— 290  in  the  morning,  — 20°  at  noon,  and  — 26°  in 
the  evening.  We  drove  rapidly  over  the  smooth 
ice  along  the  seacoast,  which  became  more  and 
more  steep  and  rocky  ; and  having  gone  forty-two 
wersts,  we  halted  for  the  night  at  a powarna  not  far 
from  the  greater  Baranow  Rock.  We  saw  this  day  a 
great  number  of  those  remarkable  masses  of  stone 
mentioned  by  Captain  Sarytschew,  which  sometimes 
resemble  ruins  of  vast  buildings,  and  sometimes  co- 
lossal figures  of  men  and  animals.  I shall  have  oc- 
casion to  speak  farther  of  these  singular  rocks. 

On  the  24th  of  February  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey  with  a temperature  of  — 24®,  which  afterward 
sunk  to  — 31®.  We  left  to  the  north  the  mountain- 
ous promontory  of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock,  which 
stretches  a considerable  distance  into  the  sea,  and 
took  our  way  across  a narrow  strip  of  land  behind 
it.  The  shore  soon  assumed  quite  a different  as- 
pect, the  rocks  and  cliffs  disappearing,  and  the  flat 
coast  was  only  now  and  then  interrupted  by  slight 
elevations.  After  travelling  thirty-four  wersts,  we 
arrived  at  the  mouth  of  a little  river,  the  transparent 
ice  of  which  promised  us  pure  and  good  water ; and 
as  there  was  also  plenty  of  driftwood,  we  deter- 
mined to  halt  for  the  night.  This  is  the  extreme 
eastern  point  of  the  most  distant  hunting  excursions 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  district.  The  coast  beyond 


102  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


had  not  been  visited  by  Russians  since  Schalaurow’s 
voyage  in  1765. 

1 determined  to  deposite  part  of  our  provisions  at 
this  place  against  our  return.  To  secure  them  from 
the  depredations  of  the  stone- foxes  and  wolverines, 
we  drove  four  posts,  each  nine  feet  high,  into  the 
snow,  and  raised  upon  them  a large  rough  box  form- 
ed of  driftwood,  in  which  we  placed  the  stores,  and 
covered  them  over  with  wood  and  snow.  This  was 
our  first  encampment.  A few  minutes  sufficed  to 
pitch  our  tent,  which  was  twelve  feet  broad  at  the 
bottom,  and  ten  feet  high  in  the  centre.  A fire  in 
the  middle  served  both  for  cooking  and  warmth, 
though  it  filled  the  tent  with  a thick,  pungent  smoke, 
notwithstanding  there  was  a small  hole  in  the  top 
to  let  it  escape.  The  entrance  was  through  a nar- 
row opening  on  the  leeside,  over  which  we  hung  a 
skin.  In  the  high  winds  which  are  usual  here,  our 
light  shelter  was  in  constant  motion,  bending  from 
side  to  side ; but,  by  heaping  a bank  of  snow  round 
it,  we  kept  it  both  steadier  and  warmer. 

As  soon  as  the  tent  was  pitched  and  the  fire  light- 
ed, we  hastened  to  fill  the  kettle  with  clean  ice  or 
snow,  and  to  make  it  boil  as  soon  as  possible,  for  tea 
was  our  most  welcome  and  exhilarating  refreshment : 
we  generally  drank  ten  or  twelve  cups  each.  Some- 
times we  had  a piece  of  rye  biscuit  or  dried  fish  to 
eat  with  it. 

Between  tea  and  supper  the  sledge-drivers  went 
out  to  attend  and  feed  their  dogs,  which  were  al- 
ways tied  up  at  night,  lest  they  should  be  tempted 
away  by  the  scent  of  some  wild  animal.  Mean- 
while we  were  engaged  in  comparing  our  observa- 
tions, and  in  laying  down  in  the  map  the  ground  we 
had  gone  over  in  the  course  of  the  day  : a task  which 
the  severe  cold  and  the  smoke  in  the  tent  some- 
times made  not  a little  difficult.  Supper  always  con- 
sisted of  a single  dish ; that  is,  soup,  made  of  fish  or 
of  meat,  as  long  as  we  had  any  of  the  latter.  It  was 


MANNER  OF  ENCAMPING. 


103 


eaten  by  us  out  of  the  kettle  in  which  it  had  been 
boiled.  Soon  after  we  had  finished  our  meal  the 
whole  party  lay  down  to  sleep.  On  account  of  the 
cold  we  could  not  lay  aside  any  part  of  our  travel- 
ling dress,  but  we  regularly  changed  our  boots  and 
stockings  every  evening,  and  hung  those  we  had  ta- 
ken olf,  with  our  fur  caps  and  gloves,  on  the  tent- 
poles  to  dry.  This  is  an  essential  precaution,  par- 
ticularly in  respect  to  stockings,  for  with  damp 
clothing  there  is  the  greatest  risk  of  the  part  being 
frozen.  We  always  spread  the  bearskins  between 
the  frozen  ground  and  ourselves,  and  the  fur  cover- 
ings over  us  ; and,  from  being  well  tired,  we  usually 
slept  very  soundly.  As  long  as  all  the  sledge-dri- 
vers remained  with  us,  we  w^ere  so  crowded  that  we 
had  to  place  ourselves  like  the  spokes  of  a w^heel, 
with  our  feet  towards  the  fire  and  our  heads  against 
the  side  of  the  tent.  In  the  morning  we  generally 
rose  at  six,  lit  the  fire,  and  washed  ourselves  before 
it  with  fresh  snow  : we  then  took  some  tea,  and  im- 
mediately after  it  a meal  which  served  for  breakfast 
and  dinner,  and  which  was  similar  to  the  supper  of 
the  night  previous.  The  tent  was  then  struck,  and 
everything  packed  and  stowed  on  the  sledges ; and 
at  nine  we  usually  took  our  departure.  This  ar- 
rangement was  adhered  to  throughout  the  journey. 

On  the  25th  of  February  we  had  a cutting  east 
wind,  with  a temperature  of  — 24°,  and  a thick  fall  of 
snow.  We  proceeded  notwithstanding,  but,  after  ac- 
complishing twenty-four  wersts,  our  dogs  could  no 
longer  face  the  storm,  and  we  were  obliged  to  halt 
on  the  flat  coast.  The  snow  continued  to  fall 
throughout  the  night,  so  that  our  tent  was  quite  bu- 
ried. This,  however,  served  to  shelter  us  from  the 
storm,  and  we  enjoyed  both  the  unusual  warmth  and 
steadiness  of  our  frail  domicil;  but,  to  balance  this 
advantage,  we  found,  the  next  morning,  that  the 
snow  in  immediate  contact  with  the  covering  of  the 
tent  had  partially  melted,  and  formed  a crust  of  ice 


104  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


upon  it,  which  rendered  it  very  stiff  and  hard  to 
pack,  and  also  much  heavier  than  it  was  before. 

It  was  quite  calm,  and  though  the  thermometer 
still  showed  — 24o,  the  air  seemed  far  milder  than 
on  the  previous  day.  The  sea  was  covered  with  a 
smooth,  solid  surface  of  snow,  over  which  the  ice- 
covered  runners*  of  our  sledges  glided  with  so  much 
ease,  that  the  dogs  moved  on  very  rapidly  without 
being  urged.  We  drove  at  a distance  of  from  50  to 
300  fathoms  from  the  coast,  which  is  here  Іолѵ  and 
flat.  As  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  it  discovers  no- 
thing but  one  level,  unvaried  surface  of  snow.  One 
becomes  accustomed  to  everything,  but  the  first  im- 
pressions produced  by  the  uniformity  of  this  vast 
shroud  are  indescribable.  We  hailed  the  sight  of  a 
heap  of  driftwood  with  pleasure,  and  even  the  clo- 
sing in  of  darkness  was  a welcome  relief. 

After  proceeding  twenty-five  wersts  from  our  last 
night’s  station,  I halted  earlier  than  usual  for  the  pur- 
pose of  taking  lunar  distances  ; the  sun’s  altitude  be- 
ing so  low  that  we  were  obliged  to  have  recourse 
to  the  stars  at  night  to  determine  the  time.  Our 
lunars  gave  166^  IV  as  the  longitude,  while  by  our 
chronometers  it  was  5'  more  easterly.  The  chro- 
nometers had  suffered,  no  doubt,  from  the  sudden 
changes  of  temperature,  or  from  shocks  by  the  fre- 
quent oversetting  of  the  sledges,  as  they  differed  also 
greatly  from  each  other. 

We  built  here  another  sajba,  in  which  we  deposit- 
ed provisions  against  our  return,  and  sent  back  the 
empty  sledges.  As  the  fire  burned  up,  the  ice  which 
incrusted  our  tent  began  to  melt,  and  produced  a 

* Every  evening  the  sledges  were  turned  over,  and  water  was 
poured  on  the  runners,  to  form  on  them  a thin  crust  of  ice, 
which  makes  them  glide  more  smoothly  over  the  snow.  This 
operation,  which  is  called  wodjat,  has  the  additional  advantage 
of  protecting  the  runners.  The  drivers  carefully  avoid  places 
where  the  ice  is  not  covered  with  snow,  where  tlie  wodjat  soon 
wears  off 


EFFECTS  OF  WET  CLOTHING. 


105 


close  damp,  which  was  so  oppressive  that,  in  spite  of 
the  cold,  we  were  frequently  obliged  to  go  into  the 
open  air.  The  temperature  sank  in  the  night  to 
— 37°,  with  a cutting  wind  from  the  S.W. ; so  that, 
notwithstanding  our  furs,  we  were  several  times  un- 
der the  necessity  of  warming  ourselves  by  exercise. 
The  next  morning  M.  Kosmin  complained  in  quite 
an  unusual  manner  of  his  feet.  We  advised  him  to 
change  his  boots  and  stockings,  which  he  had  omit- 
ted to  do  the  night  before.  When  the  boots  were 
taken  off,  we  saw  with  no  little  alarm  that  the  stock- 
ings were  frozen  to  his  feet.  Drawing  them  olf 
with  great  care,  we  found  a layer  of  ice  of  the  thick- 
ness of  a line  between  the  stockings  and  feet.  Hap- 
pily, the  latter  had  not  yet  frozen,  and  by  gentle  rub- 
bing with  a little  brandy  they  were  soon  restored. 
This  instance  gave  us  a farther  warning  of  the  dan- 
gerous consequences,  in  intense  cold,  of  sleeping  in 
damp  clothing,  whether  arising  from  external  cau- 
ses or  from  evaporation  from  the  skin.  At  noon, 
being  then  if  wersts  north  of  the  line  of  the  coast, 
I found  the  latitude  by  observation  to  be  69°  30^,  the 
longitude  by  reckoning  166o  27^,  and  the  variation 
17|  east. 

The  increasing  cold  and  violent  wind  made  travel- 
ling very  difficult.  To  guard  the  dogs  from  being 
frozen,  the  drivers  were  obliged  to  put  clothing  on 
their  bodies,  and  a kind  of  boots  on  their  feet,  which 
greatly  impeded  their  running ; while  the  intensity 
of  the  frost  rendered  the  snow  loose  and  granular, 
so  that  the  sledge-runners  no  longer  glided  smoothly 
over  its  surface.  We  could  therefore  accomplish 
only  26  wersts  before  we  halted  for  the  night  of  the 
27th,  at  the  mouth  of  a river  of  some  importance, 
known  by  the  dwellers  on  the  banks  of  the  lesser 
Aniuj  under  the  name  of  the  great  Baranika.  We 
saw  here  immense  quantities  of  driftwood,  and,  in- 
deed, along  the  whole  strip  of  flat  coast  which  we 
had  passed  during  the  day.  To  the  south  and  south- 


I Об  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

west  of  our  sleeping-place  were  distant  mountains, 
extending  to  the  east  bank  of  the  river.  The  coast 
here  makes  a bend  towards  the  north,  and  gradually 
rises  to  a height  of  six  fathoms. 

Immediately  north  of  us  there  appeared  a white 
line  running  apparently  parallel  to  the  coast,  which 
we  afterward  found  to  be  large  torossy^  or  hummocks 
of  ice,  which,  seen  at  a distance,  may  easily  be  mis- 
taken for  land. 

During  the  night  I took  some  distances  of  the 
moon  and  Pollux,  but  failed  in  determining  the  lon- 
gitude ; for  when  about  to  take  altitudes  of  Ca- 
pella  for  time,  I found  that  crystals  were  forming  in 
the  mercury  of  the  artificial  horizon,  by  which  its 
surface,  without  absolutely  freezing,  was  rendered 
too  uneven  to  give  a true  reflection.  Indeed,  our 
observations  generally,  with  instruments  of  any 
kind,  were  made  with  difficulty,  owing  to  the  intense 
cold.  We  were  obliged  to  cover  with  leather  all 
those  parts  of  our  sextants  which  came  in  contact 
with  the  hand  or  the  eye,  otherwise  the  skin  in- 
stantly froze  to  the  metal.  During  an  observation, 
and  particularly  when  reading  the  divisions  on  the 
arc  of  the  sextant,  we  had  carefully  to  hold  our 
breath,  otherwise  the  surface  became  obscured  by  a 
thin  coat  of  ice  or  a kind  of  rime.  Indeed,  this  fre- 
quently happened  from  the  mere  evaporation  from 
the  skin,  when  we  were  at  all  v/arm.  Still,  by  prac- 
tice, we  were  enabled  to  use  the  sextant  at  a tem- 
perature of  — 360  ; and  to  note  with  sufficient  exact- 
ness the  degrees,  minutes,  and  seconds  on  the  arc, 
by  the  faint  light  of  a hand-lantern.  The  chronom- 
eters, however,  stopped  : I had  been  afraid  of  this, 
and  had  tried  to  guard  against  it  by  always  wearing 
them  during  the  day,  and  by  putting  them  at  night 
in  a box  which  I wrapped  in  thick  furs,  and  placed 
by  my  side  under  the  coverlet ; but,  in  spite  of  all 
these  precautions,  the  cold  congealed  the  oil  in  the 
works. 


ALARM  OCCASIONED  BY  THE  DOGS.  107 

On  the  28th  of  February,  the  temperature  varied 
from  — 200  to  — 250,  with  a fresh  S.W.  breeze,  but 
as  the  wind  was  in  our  backs  we  felt  it  less.  The 
day  was  so  foggy  that  we  could  scarcely  distinguish 
the  line  of  coast  on  our  right ; but  a high  promonto- 
ry being  visible  through  the  mist,  we  directed  our 
course  to  it,  and  pitched  our  tent  under  the  shelter 
of  a steep  bank,  having  made  only  27  worsts,  on  ac- 
count of  the  loose  and  granular  state  of  the  snow. 
We  climbed  the  hill,  and  found  at  the  top  some 
boards,  reindeer-sinews,  and  burned  wood,  Avhich 
showed  that  there  had  been  a habitation  there  of 
some  kind.  Towards  evening  the  weather  cleared, 
and  M.  Kosmin  was  enabled  to  take  some  lunar  dis- 
tances, by  which  we  made  our  longitude  167o  43^. 
By  a meridian  altitude  of  the  moon,  the  latitude  was 
600  38^  We  formed  here  a third  deposite  of  pro- 
visions. 

In  the  night,  one  of  the  dogs  barking  loudly,  wo 
all  jumped  up  and  ran  out,  but  could  see  nothing. 
The  drivers  maintained  that  the  animal  must  have 
scented  a wandering  party  of  Tschuktschi,  and  they 
could  not  sleep  a wink  the  rest  of  the  night,  for 
fear  of  a surprise. 

On  the  1st  of  March  the  thermometer  was  at — 25o 
throughout  - the  day,  and  a light  breeze  from  the 
N.E.  cleared  the  air.  At  noon  we  found  the  latitude 
by  observation  60°  43^,  variation  18i°  east. 

The  coast,  which  runs  here  in  a N.N.W.  direc- 
tion, is  tolerably  high,  forming  a sort  of  wall,  rising 
five  or  more  fathoms  above  the  surface  of  the  sea. 
At  the  foot  of  it  was  a deserted  Tschuktschi  hut, 
which  could  not  have  been  long  forsaken,  as  sledge 
traces  were  still  visible.  Our  drivers  were  much 
alarmed,  and  I deemed  it  prudent  to  keep  a watch 
at  night. 

At  a distance  of  three  and  a half  wersts  from  the 
spot  where  we  had  taken  our  observation  at  noon, 
we  came  to  a considerable  opening  in  the  toast, 


108  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

which  we  took  at  the  time  for  a bay,  but  whcih  we 
discovered  in  the  following  year  to  be  a passage  be- 
tween the  Continent  and  an  island  to  which  Scha- 
laurow  had  given  the  name  of  Sabadej.  In  crossing 
this  strait,  about  the  middle  of  it  we  came  on  some 
Tschuktschi  huts,  built  of  drift  larchwood.  They 
were  empty,  and  we  could  not  judge  of  the  direc- 
tion in  which  their  occupants  had  gone,  as  the  snow 
had  covered  the  tracks  of  their  sledges.  Though 
the  shore  of  the  mainland  is  flat,  that  of  the  island 
is  steep,  and  twenty  fathoms  or  more  in  height. 
By  a meridian  altitude  of  the  moon,  the  latitude  of 
our  sleeping-place  was  69®  49',  and  its  longitude, 
determined  by  distances  of  the  moon  from  Aldeba- 
ran, 168®  04'. 

Here  we  found  fresh  traces  of  the  Tschuktschi, 
and  from  the  summit  of  a neighbouring  hill  we  saw 
an  extensive  tundra  at  some  distance  towards  the 
N.E.  During  this  day’s  journey  we  were  present- 
ed with  a striking  spectacle.  In  the  N.E.  horizon 
there  appeared  an  insulated  dark-gray  cloud,  from 
which  white  beams  streamed  to  the  zenith,  and 
across  it  to  the  opposite  horizon,  resembling  the 
beams  of  the  aurora,  but  whether  luniinous  or  not 
we  could  not  tell,  on  account  of  the  daylight.  The 
phenomenon  lasted  about  half  an  hour.  One  of 
our  Cossacks,  who  had  been  before  on  the  Polar 
Sea,  maintained  that  the  cloud  was  occasioned  by 
vapour  rising  from  a sudden  fissure  in  the  ice.  On 
the  same  evening  there  was  an  aurora  extending 
from  N.E.  to  N.W. 

Next  morning  the  weather  was  clear,  and  the 
temperature  — 30®.  Soon  after  we  started,  M.  Kos- 
min  thought  he  could  see  land  in  the  distance.  We 
immediately  ascended  a hill,  and  ascertained  that 
the  supposed  land  was  nothing  but  hummocks  of 
ice  piled  up  beyond  a large  polynjä^  or  space  of  open 
water,  which  extended  from  east  to  west  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach.  Our  observed  latitude  at  noon 


SPLENDID  AURORA. 


109 


was  69°  52'.  About  two  worsts  from  hence  the 
shore  becomes  very  flat;  and  this  point  of  junction 
of  the  high  and  the  low  coast  is  probably  Lieuten- 
ant Laptew’s  Sand  Cape,  though  there  is  no  project- 
ing point  which  can  properly  be  called  a cape  ; its 
longitude  by  our  reckoning  is  168°.  Thence  we 
proceeded  sometimes  over  the  ice  of  the  sea  and 
sometimes  on  the  coast,  which  is  so  low  that  it  is 
probably  overflowed  in  summer  : a range  of  sand- 
hills ran  parallel  at  a short  distance.  Driftwood 
had  become  scarce,  but  we  found  some  boards 
which  had  apparently  been  left  by  the  Tschuktschi, 
whose  traces  were  numerous.  We  halted  at  the 
end  of  thirty-five  worsts,  and  made  a fourth  depos- 
ite  of  provisions.  The  last  of  the  provision-sledges 
returned  from  this  point,  and  our  party  now  consist- 
ed only  of  M.  Kosmin,  myself,  and  three  Cossack 
drivers,  with  three  travelling-sledges.  By  a merid- 
ian altitude  of  the  moon,  the  latitude  was  69^  58^ ; 
and  the  longitude,  by  reckoning  and  angles,  168o  41 . 

We  saw  this  evening  an  aurora  of  extraordinary 
beauty.  The  sky  was  clear  and  cloudless,  and  the 
stars  sparkled  in  their  fullest  Arctic  brilliancy.  With 
a light  breeze  from  the  N.E.  there  rose  in  the  E.N.E. 
a great  column  of  light,  from  which  rays  extended 
over  the  sky  in  the  direction  of  the  wind,  in  broad 
luminous  bands,  which,  as  they  seemed  to  approach 
us,  constantly  changed  their  form.  From  the  rapid- 
ity with  which  the  rays  shot  through  the  whole 
space  from  the  horizon  to  the  zenith,  in  less  than 
two  seconds,  the  aurora  appeared  to  be  nearer  to  us 
than  the  clouds  at  their  ordinary  height.  We  could 
perceive  no  effect  on  the  compass-needle. 

Our  Cossacks  had  repeatedly  urged  the  necessity 
of  allowing  the  dogs  a longer  rest,  and  we  halted 
for  that  purpose  on  the  3d  of  March,  though  we 
ourselves  meanwhile  suffered  a good  deal  from  cold, 
being  on  an  unsheltered  flat,  with  a temperature  of 
from— 25°  to — 33°,  and  a cutting  wind  from  the  N.E. : 

К 


110  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

we  were  also  most  of  the  time  without  fire,  as  we 
had  barely  fuel  enough  to  cook  with.  Nor  were 
we  without  some  degree  of  anxiety  and  uncertainty 
as  to  our  future  proceedings.  We  were  ignorant  of 
the  true  position  of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  of  which  we 
were  in  search ; and  the  low  state  of  our  provisions 
would  not  admit  of  our  taking  the  more  certain  but 
much  less  direct  course  by  the  coast,  which  here 
trended  towards  the  south.  While  I was  doubtful 
on  what  to  decide,  we  saw  at  sunset  two  considera- 
ble hills  in  the  eastern  horizon,  towards  which  we 
determined  to  direct  our  course. 

Next  morning  the  sky  was  obscured,  and  the  tem- 
perature — 2°,  with  a gentle  breeze  from  the  S.E, 
Our  drivers  envied  the  good  fortune  of  the  Tschukt- 
schi  in  enjoying  so  mild  a climate.  We  kept  a di- 
rect course  across  the  ice  until  we  had  gone  sixty- 
one  worsts,  when  the  weariness  of  our  dogs  and  the 
approach  of  night  obliged  us  to  halt  among  some 
ice-hummocks.  We  ascended  one  of  these,  and 
discovered  from  its  summit  that  the  land  to  the  east 
formed  a promontory,  connected  with  a range  of 
hills  running  in  a southern  direction.  As  we  gazed 
we  thought  we  saw  the  rocks  and  precipices  of  the 
promontory  reflected  on  a smooth  surface  of  open 
water ; but  in  a few  moments,  what  had  appeared 
to  be  open  water  seemed  changed  to  a smooth  sur- 
face of  ice,  which  presently  became  covered  with 
numerous  inequalities,  varying  their  form  every  in- 
stant. At  last,  as  the  position  of  the  sun  was  a lit- 
tle altered,  the  whole  disappeared,  and  we  saw 
clearly  an  almost  impassable  range  of  enormous 
hummocks  extending  in  every  direction.  The  strong 
refraction  renders  these  optical  illusions  and  trans- 
formations extremely  frequent  on  the  Polar  Sea, 
and  the  traveller  is  often  misled  by  them.  We  had 
exhausted  our  fuel,  and  were  obliged  to  burn  three 
of  our  tent-poles  and  a pair  of  spare  sledge-runners 
to  boil  our  soup  : the  rest  of  the  time  we  had  no 


DOUBLING  CAPE  SCHELAGSKOJ  NOSS.  Ill 

fire ; but,  fortunately,  the  wind  continued  from  the 
S.E.,  and  the  temperature  was  not  below  — 8°. 

On  the  5th  of  March,  thirty  wersts  of  laborious 
travelling  among  hummocks  of  ice  brought  us  to 
the  N.W.  point  of  the  Schelagskoj  Noss.  The 
doubling  this  cape  was  a work  of  difficulty  and  dan- 
ger. We  had  often  to  ascend  steep  icebergs  ninety 
feet  high,  and  then  to  descend  at  great  hazard  to  the 
sledges,  the  dogs,  and  ourselves.  At  other  times  we 
were  obliged  to  wade  up  to  our  waists  through  loose 
drifted  snow,  and  if  we  came  occasionally  to  smooth 
ice,  it  was  covered  with  sharp  crystallized  salt, 
which  destroyed  the  ice-runners,  and  made  the 
draught  so  heavy  that  we  were  obliged  to  harness 
ourselves  to  the  sledges,  and  it  required  our  utmost 
efforts  to  drag  them  along.  The  cape  was  some- 
times totally  concealed  from  view  by  intervening 
masses  of  ice  ; but  wherever  we  approached  the 
shore,  it  appeared  to  consist  of  a black,  dense,  glis- 
tening rock,  in  regular  vertical  columns  of  250  feet 
or  more  in  height,  with  occasionally  intervening 
dikes  some  fathoms  in  breadth,  of  a whitish,  fine- 
grained granite.  Having  accomplished  about  nine 
wersts  in  five  hours  with  the  greatest  difficulty, 
both  men  and  dogs  were  so  completely  exhausted 
that  we  were  obliged  to  halt  for  the  night  in  a little 
bay  with  a sandy  beach,  where,  to  our  great  joy, 
we  found  driftwood,  and  had  the  comfort  of  an  ex- 
cellent fire,  by  which  our  strength  was  so  much  re- 
cruited that  we  did  not  feel  the  cold  next  day 
(March  6th),  when  the  temperature  was  — 11°,  with 
wind  and  driving  snow.  The  mountains  which  form 
the  promontory  appeared  to  be  above  3000  feet  in 
height.  In  the  bay  where  we  slept  we  saw  remains 
of  fires  and  whalebones. 

As  we  had  now  only  three  days’  provisions  re- 
maining, it  appeared  very  doubtful  whether  we  could 
safely  venture  farther.  I decided,  however,  on  go- 
ing sufficiently  far  to  judge  of  the  general  trending 


112  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


of  this  part  of  the  coast,  which  was  supposed,  ac- 
cording to  Burney’s  well-known  views,  to  form  an 
isthmus  connecting  Asia  with  America.  I proceed- 
ed, therefore,  with  the  best  of  the  dogs  and  two  un- 
loaded sledges,  leaving  the  third  under  the  charge 
of  one  of  the  Cossacks.  Luckily  we  found  a nar- 
row strip  of  smooth  ice,  which  enabled  us  to  get  on 
rapidly.  The  direction  of  the  coast,  apart  from  un- 
important indentations,  trends  S.  80°  E.  It  consists 
chiefly  of  projecting  points  formed  of  the  black  slate- 
rock  above-mentioned,  with  occasional  intervening 
sandy  beaches.  The  observed  latitude  at  noon  was 
70°  3'  seventeen  wersts  from  our  sleeping-place. 
About  twelve  wersts  farther  on  the  rocks  are  re- 
placed by  a sandy  shore,  and  the  hills  retire  inland. 
We  saw  at  a distance  of  twenty-four  miles  S.  48° 
E.  (true),  a promontory,  which  I named  Cape  Kos- 
min,  after  my  zealous  fellow-traveller.  To  judge 
by  the  immense  blocks  of  ice  close  to  the  shore, 
the  depth  of  water  must  be  very  considerable,  and 
the  absence  of  bays  must  render  navigation  danger- 
ous, as  vessels  would  be  exposed  to  the  pressure  of 
the  ice,  without  any  place  of  refuge. 

The  want  of  provisions  now  obliged  us  to  return ; 
and  I was  forced  to  content  myself  for  the  present 
with  having  ascertained  that  for  forty  miles  to  the 
east  of  Cape  Schelagskoj  the  coast  trended  in  a S.E. 
direction.  We  marked  the  termination  of  our  jour- 
ney by  the  erection  of  a pyramid  of  large  stones  on 
a remarkable  hill  not  far  from  a stream,  which  I 
named  Poworotnoj  (The  Return).  This  pyramid  is 
in  70°  Г latitude,  and  171°  47'  longitude,  and  is  418 
wersts  from  our  starting-point  at  Sucharnoje. 

Late  at  night  we  reached  our  tent  on  the  east  side 
of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  where  we  found  the  Cossack 
engaged  in  erecting  a large  wooden  cross  as  a me- 
morial. We  assisted  him  to  place  it  in  a conspic- 
uous situation,  and  engraved  on  it  the  date  of  our 
visit.  On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  March  we  began 


DEPOSITES  OF  PROVISIONS. 


113 


our  homeward  journey  willi  a temperature  of  — 31°, 
a piercing  wind,  and  driving  snow.  To  avoid  the 
hummocks  we  took  our  way  inland  over  some  low 
hills,  and,  to  our  great  joy,  after  we  had  gone  five 
wersts  we  saw  the  smooth  sea-ice.  This  is  proba- 
bly the  Wolok  or  portage  over  which  Staduchin 
passed  in  1700,  when,  in  proceeding  by  water  from 
the  Kolyma,  he  found  himself  unable  to  get  round 
the  cape  which  he  called  the  Great  Tschuktschi 
Cape,  and  which  subsequently  received  the  name  of 
Cape  Schelagskoj.  We  followed  the  coast  in  a 
southerly  direction,  and  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night 
in  a bay  25  wersts  from  the  Wolok.  Here  we  found 
a quantity  of  drift  larch  wood.  We  had  a light  breeze 
from  the  west,  a temperature  of  — 35°  in  the  morn- 
ing and  29°  in  the  evening.  The  latitude,  by  obser- 
vation at  noon,  was  69°  45',  and  the  variation  18°  E. 
by  the  midday  shadow.  We  saw  a cape  4}  wersts 
off,  in  a S.S.W.  I W.  direction,  to  which  1 gave  the 
name  of  Cape  Matiuschkin.  It  is  in  69°  44'  latitude, 
and  170°  47'  longitude.  A flat  island  here  lying  be- 
tween W.N.W.  and  S.W.,  and  only  separated  from 
the  main  by  a narrow  arm  of  the  sea,  is  called  by 
the  Tschuktschi  Arautan.  Turning  round  the  south- 
ern point  of  this  island,  we  took  our  course  to  the 
westward,  across  Tschaun  Bay ; and,  after  travel- 
ling 25  wersts,  we  came  to  the  low  island  of  Sabadej. 

On  the  9th  of  March  we  arrived  late  in  the  even 
ing  at  the  place  where  we  had  made  our  fourth  de- 
posite  of  provisions.  Happily  we  found  it  undis- 
turbed, for  we  had  consumed  the  day  before  the  re- 
mains of  those  which  we  had  taken  with  us.  Sub- 
sequently, however,  we  were  less  fortunate.  At  the 
three  other  deposltes,  in  spite  of  the  precautions  we 
had  taken,  we  found  nothing  but  fishbones,  and  nu- 
merous traces  of  stone-foxes  and  wolverines.  Not- 
withstanding the  utmost  frugality,  both  ourselves 
and  the  dogs  had  to  go  the  last  two  days  without 
food.  I encouraged  my  companions  by  the  assu- 


114  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


ranсe  that  we  should  find  provisions  at  Sucharnoje, 
and  also  dogs  and  sledges,  according  to  the  orders 
which  I had  left ; but  in  this  we  were  disappointed : 
we  found  no  one  there,  and  had  to  continue  our 
route  to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  where  we  arrived  on  the 
Hth  of  March,  having  been  absent  22  days,  and 
travelled  1122  wersts.  Dr.  Kyber  had  arrived  from 
Irkuzk  on  the  20th  of  February,  but  his  health  had 
suffered  so  much  from  his  winter  journey  that  he 
Avas  unable  to  accompany  us  on  our  next  expedition 
over  the  ice. 

M.  Matiuschkin  returned  on  the  19th  of  March, 
having  executed  his  mission  with  complete  success. 
The  Tschuktschi  chiefs  were  highly  gratified  with 
the  presents  sent  to  them,  and  gave  him  the  strong- 
est assurances  of  a friendly  reception  at  their  vari- 
ous settlements.  None  of  them  had  ever  seen  or 
heard  anything  of  a land  to  the  north  of  their  own 
coasts. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

M.  Matiuschkin’s  Account  of  the  Fair  at  Ostrownoje. — Remarks 
on  the  Tschuktschi  whom  he  met  there,  and  on  the  Scha- 
mans. 

We  left  Nishne  Kolymsk  on  the  4th  of  March,  our 
party  consisting  of  Captain  Cochrane  and  myself,  a 
Cossack,  and  a Jakut,  who  understood  the  Tschukt- 
schi language,  and  served  as  interpreter.  After 
reaching  the  lesser  Aniuj,  we  followed  its  course, 
passing  many  huts  scattered  along  its  banks,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  had  already  left  them  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  fair;  and  the  well-beaten  tracks  made 
by  the  great  number  of  passengers  in  that  direction 
rendered  our  journey  both  rapid  and  easy.  We  ar- 


FAIR  AT  OSTROWNOJE. 


115 


rived  on  the  8th  at  what  is  called  the  Fort  of  Os- 
trownoje  : a few  huts  surrounded  by  a palisade.  It 
is  situated  on  an  island  in  the  lesser  Aniuj,  in  196"^ 
10'  longitude,  and  68"^  latitude. 

A great  number  of  persons  had  already  assembled, 
and  the  scene  was  in  a high  degree  animated  and 
curious,  especially  at  night,  when,  illuminated  by  the 
blazing  fires  of  the  various  bivouacs  and  tents,  it 
contrasted  with  the  calm  brilliancy  of  the  starry 
canopy  above,  and  the  pale-green,  reddish,  or  straw- 
coloured  light  of  the  incessantly-varying  aurora, 
which  was  visible  almost  every  night.  The  Russian 
merchants  arrived  the  next  day  with  125  loaded 
pack-horses.  The  Tschuktschi  were  here  before 
us,  and  had  encamped  on  the  islands  and  banks  of 
the  river.  They  came  from  the  extreme  eastern 
point  of  Asia,  bringing  furs  and  walrus  teeth,  which 
they  had  crossed  Behring’s  Straits  to  procure  from 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Northwest  coast  of  America. 
They  had  with  them  their  women  and  children, 
their  arms,  their  household  goods,  and  their  movable 
houses  of  reindeer  skin,  all  conveyed  on  sledges 
drawn  by  reindeer.  The  journey  occupies  five  or 
six  months ; for  though  the  distance  in  a straight 
line  is  but  little  more  than  a thousand  worsts,  they 
make  long,  circuitous  routes  in  search  of  pasture. 
They  also  visit  two  other  places,*  where  a market 
of  inferior  importance  is  held  : after  remaining  eight 
or  ten  days  at  Ostrownoje,  they  set  off  on  their  re- 
turn, so  that  their  life  is  actually  passed  on  the  road, 
allowing  barely  the  time  for  necessary  preparations 
and  for  their  visits  to  the  American  coast.  These 
are  made  in  baidars^  or  boats  formed  of  skins.  The 
frequent  storms  and  fogs  render  the  passage  danger- 
ous in  such  frail  vessels,  and  they  usually  stop  on 

* Anadyrsk  and  Kammenoje,  at  both  which  places  the  great 
fair  used  to  be  held ; its  removal  to  Ostrownoje,  which  took 
place  forty  years  ago,  is  a great  convenience  and  advantage  to 
the  Russians. 


116  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

the  way  at  the  Gwosdew  Islands.  The  trade  is  an 
exceedingly  profitable  one,  both  to  the  Russians  and 
to  the  Tschuktschi.  The  latter  are,  indeed,  little 
more  than  carriers,  bartering  the  Russian  tobacco, 
hardware,  and  beads  for  furs  and  other  articles. 
Furs  which  they  obtain  from  the  Americans  for  half 
a pood  of  tobacco,  they  will  dispose  of  to  the  Rus- 
sians for  two  pood  of  the  same  article,  making  their 
profit  in  the  transaction  300  per  cent.  The  same 
two  pood  of  tobacco  may  cost  the  Russian  trader 
160  roubles  at  the  outside,  and  he  sells  the  furs  ob- 
tained with  it  for  at  least  260  roubles,  leaving  him  a 
profit  of  62  per  cent.  These  furs  consist  chiefly  of 
black  and  silver-gray  fox,  stone-fox,  lynx,  wolverine, 
river-otter,  beaver,  and  a species  of  marten  unknown 
in  Siberia,  of  remarkable  beauty,  and  nearly  resem- 
bling the  sable  in  the  nature  and  colour  of  the  fur. 
Besides  these,  the  Tschuktschi  bring  from  America 
bearskins,  thongs  of  walrus  skin,  and  walrus  teeth. 
They  add  nothing  of  their  own  except  whalebone 
sledge-runners,  a large  quantity  of  clothing  made  by 
them  from  the  skins  of  their  reindeer,  and  bags  of 
sealskin  in  which  they  pack  the  American  furs. 

The  wares  brought  by  the  Russians  are  nearly  all 
selected  with  reference  to  the  taste  and  wants  of 
the  Tschuktschi.  With  the  exception  of  a little  tea, 
sugar,  and  cloth  for  the  settlers  of  their  own  nation 
who  may  visit  the  fair,  they  consist  of  tobacco  and 
different  kinds  of  hardware,  such  as  kettles,  hatch- 
ets, knives,  «fee.,  and  beads  of  various  colours.  The 
traders  would  bring  brandy  in  large  quantities  if  they 
were  not  restrained  by  a wise  and  beneficent  regu- 
lation of  the  government,  though  some  of  it  is,  not- 
withstanding, clandestinely  introduced,  and  bought 
by  the  Tschuktschi  at  almost  incredible  prices  : they 
call  it  wild-making-water ; and  some  will  give  the 
most  beautiful  foxskins,  valued  at  250  roubles,  for 
a couple  of  bottles  of  bad  brandy,  which  cost  only  a 
few  roubles  at  Jakuzk.  The  fair  is  also  visited  by 


OPENING  OF  THE  FAIR. 


117 


the  different  native  tribes  of  a district  above  1000 
wersts  in  extent,  Jukahiri,  Lamuti,  Tungusi,  Tschu- 
wanzi,  and  Koraki.  The  variety  in  their  dress  and 
equipments  adds  greatly  to  the  animation  and  inter- 
est of  the  scene. 

Before  the  fair  began,  the  principal  persons  on 
both  sides  assembled  to  fix  the  prices  for  the  differ- 
ent wares.  After  much  discussion,  it  was  settled 
that  two  pood  of  Circassian  tobacco  should  be  rated 
at  sixteen  fox  and  twenty  marten  skins,  and  other 
articles  in  proportion  : any  one  known  to  sell  below 
the  established  prices  is  made  to  pay  a fine,  and 
loses  the  right  of  trafficking  during  the  remainder  of 
the  fair.  Without  some  such  regulation,  the  avidity 
of  the  Russian  traders  would  lead  them  to  spoil  their 
market  by  too  eager  a competition. 

On  the  11th  of  February  the  fair  was  opened  by 
hoisting  a flag  over  the  gate  of  the  ostrog.  At  this 
signal  the  Tschuktschi  advanced  in  order,  fully 
armed  with  spears,  bows,  and  arrows,  and  ranged 
themselves,  with  their  sledges  and  goods,  in  a semi- 
circle in  front  of  the  fort,  where  the  Russians,  with 
the  other  tribes,  awaited  the  ringing  of  a bell,  to  give 
notice  that  the  traffic  might  begin.  The  moment  it 
sounded,  it  seemed  as  if  an  electric  shock  had  run 
through  the  лѵЬоІе  of  the  party  in  the  fort.  Old 
and  young,  men  and  women,  all  rushed  forward  in 
mad  confusion  towards  the  Tschuktschi;  every  one 
endeavouring  to  be  first  at  the  sledges  to  obtain 
the  best,  and  to  dispose  of  his  own  wares  to  the 
greatest  advantage.  The  Russians  were  much  the  \ 
most  eager  of  the  whole  : they  might  be  seen  drag-  ] 
ging  with  one  hand  a heavy  bag  of  tobacco,  and  | 
carrying  in  the  other  a couple  of  kettles,  while 
hatchets,  knives,  wooden  and  metal  pipes,  long 
strings  of  beads,  &c.,  &c.,  were  stuck  round  their 
girdles  or  hanging  over  their  shoulders,  as  they  ran  ^ 
from  sledge  to  sledge,  proclaiming  their  wares  in  a | 
language  which  is  a medley  of  Russian,  Tschuktschi,  ^ 
and  Jakuti.  I 


118  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


The  noise,  press,  and  confusion  defy  all  description. 
Many  were  thrown  down  by  the  throng  in  the  deep 
snow,  and  run  over  by  their  competitors  ; and  though 
some  of  them  lost  their  cap  and  gloves  in  the  fall, 
instead  of  stopping  to  recover  them,  they  might  be 
seen  with  bare  heads  and  hands  in  a temperature  of 
— 35°,  intent  only  on  making  up  for  lost  time  by  re- 
doubled activity.  The  excessive  eagerness  of  the 
Russians  was  exhibited  in  remarkable  contrast  with 
the  composure  and  self-possession  of  the  Tschukt- 
schi,  who  stood  quietly  by  their  sledges,  and  made 
no  reply  to  the  torrent  of  words  poured  forth  by 
their  customers  until  a proposal  met  their  approba- 
tion, when  the  exchange  was  effected  at  once.  It 
appeared  to  us  that  their  calmness  gave  them  a great 
advantage  over  the  Russians.  They  had  no  scales, 
but  judged  the  weight  very  accurately  by  the  hand. 
The  average  value  of  the  goods  brought  to  this  fair 
is  said  to  be  nearly  200,000  roubles : it  lasts  about 
three  days,  and  at  its  close  the  various  parties  dis- 
perse. 

I availed  myself  of  the  first  assembly  in  the  os- 
trog  to  converse  with  the  principal  chiefs  in  relation 
to  our  intended  journey  to  their  country  and  its  ob- 
jects. The  persons  of  most  note  in  this  confer- 
ence were  Makamok  and  Leutt,  from  the  Bay  of  St. 
Lawrence  ; Waletka,  whose  countless  herds  of  rein- 
deer feed  to  the  east  of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  and 
Ewraschka,  whose  tribe  lead  a nomadic  life  near 
Tschaun  Bay.  I told  them  that  the  emperor  had 
sent  us  to  examine  the  coasts  of  the  Icy  Sea  for  the 
purpose  of  discovering  whether  and  by  what  route 
vessels  could  reach  the  shores,  and  bring  them  such 
articles  as  they  required  in  greater  abundance  and 
at  a cheaper  rate  than  they  could  obtain  them  at 
present;  and  I asked  if,  in  the  course  of  these -re- 
searches, we  should  meet  with  their  people,  wheth- 
er we  might  reckon  on  a friendly  reception,  and  on 
obtaining  any  assistance  which  we  might  want,  and 


CAPTAIN  COCHRANE. 


119 


which  would  be  amply  rewarded.  Of  this  I received 
from  all  the  chiefs  the  fullest  and  most  satisfactory 
assurances. 

Captain  Cochrane,  however,  was  less  successful. 
He  represented  himself  as  a merchant  who  wished 
to  travel  through  their  country  to  the  Bay  of  St. 
Lawrence,  and  to  cross  over  from  thence  to  Ameri- 
ca ; and  offered  to  give  them  a suitable  remunera- 
tion of  tobacco  and  brandy  for  a safe  passage. 

Leutt  demanded  no  less  than  thirty  pood  of  tobac- 
co to  convey  him  by  the  month  of  June  to  Mets- 
chigmenskisch  Bay.  Waletka,  on  the  other  hand, 
offered  to  take  him  without  recompense  to  the  River 
Werkon,  where  he  would  recommend  him  to  anoth- 
er chief,  who  would  either  forward  him  to  Behring’s 
Straits,  or,  if  he  preferred,  bring  him  back  to  Os- 
trownoje  the  next  year.  If  Leutt’s  demand  was 
exorbitant,  the  disinterestedness  of  Waletka’s  propo- 
sal appeared  somewhat  suspicious.  Captain  Coch- 
rane saw,  moreover,  that  they  were  a people  among 
whom  he  would  have  much  to  suffer,  and  from  whom 
he  could  learn  but  little,  as  he  was  entirely  ignorant 
of  their  language.  He  also  judged,  from  their  rude 
and  passionate  character,  that  he  would  run  some 
risk  of  being  deserted  by  them,  or  even  of  being 
put  to  death ; and,  on  the  whole,  he  determined  to 
return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk. 

The  Tschuktschi  are  in  many  respects  a very  pe- 
culiar race,  and  are  but  little  known.  They  have 
rarely  been  visited  by  persons  of  observation,  and 
even  these  have  contented  themselves  with  descri- 
bing their  personal  appearance,  and  a few  striking 
ceremonies.  A long  residence,  and  a knowledge  of 
the  language,  would  be  requisite  to  obtain  correct 
views  as  to  their  modes  of  life  and  general  charac- 
ter: I cannot  pretend  to  supply  this  deficiency,  but 
I may  furnish  towards  it  the  little  I could  learn  on 
the  present  and  on  other  occasions,  either  directly 
from  themselves,  from  my  own  observation,  or  from 


120  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


the  accounts  given  by  the  Russian  settlers  who  are 
their  neighbours.  They  have  retained  their  original 
national  peculiarities  far  beyond  any  other  race  in 
Northern  Asia.  Their  weakness  has  taught  them 
to  cultivate  peace,  and  their  severe  encounters  with 
the  conquerors  of  Siberia  have  greatly  narrowed 
the  limits  of  the  territory  within  which  they  wander 
free  and  independent.  As  with  all  uncivilized  peo- 
ple, their  wants  are  few : their  reindeer  supply  them 
with  food,  clothing,  and  shelter ; and  they  regard 
with  contempt  the  other  aborigines  who  are  content 
to  live  under  Russian  domination.  Before  the  con- 
quest of  Siberia  they  were  constantly  at  war  with 
their  neighbours  ; nevertheless,  they  made  common 
cause  against  the  invaders ; but  the  strife  was  too 
unequal,  and,  although  they  had  been  always  accus- 
tomed to  victory  in  conflicts  with  the  weaker  tribes, 
they  were  then  fain  to  retire  into  deserts  diflicult  of 
access,  and  offering  little  to  tempt  farther  intrusion. 
It  was  long,  however,  before  any  peaceful  commer- 
cial intercourse  took  place  ; and  when  it  did,  it  was 
at  first  only  on  the  confines  of  their  own  territory, 
where  they  came  in  strong  force  and  completely 
armed.  They  have  gradually  acquired  more  confi- 
dence in  the  friendly  intentions  of  the  Russians,  and 
they  now  come  лѵіШ  their  wives  and  children  some 
distance  within  the  boundaries  of  the  latter.  This 
intercourse,  by  making  them  acquainted  with  milder 
manners,  has  in  some  degree  softened  their  fierce 
character ; and,  no  doubt,  in  process  of  time,  they 
will  assimilate  more  and  more  to  the  Russians,  until 
at  length  they  unite  with  them,  as  their  neighbours 
have  done.  A great  number  of  the  Tschuktschi  have 

rbeen  already  baptized,  but  it  must  be  admitted  that 
they  are  as  much  heathens  as  ever,  and  have  not  the 
slightest  idea  either  of  the  doctrines,  or  of  the  spirit 
j'  of  Christianity.  A priest  from  Nishne  Kolymsk  at- 
tends the  fair,  and  is  ready  to  baptize  any  who  offer 
. themselves,  which  numbers  are  induced  to  do,  solely 


BARBAROUS  STATE  OF  THE  TSCHUKTSCHI.  121 


to  obtain  the  presents  which  it  is  customary  to  make  " 
them  on  the  occasion.*  No  instruction  is  given 
them,  and  it  is  scarcely  possible  that  any  should  be, 
so  long  as  their  present  wandering  mode  of  life  con- 
tinues ; nor  is  their  language,  which  is  not  understood 
by  the  priests,  a less  formidable  obstacle.  The  St. 
Petersburgh  Bible  Society  attempted  the  translation 
of  the  Ten  Commandments,  the  Lord’s  Prayer,  the 
Creed,  and,  if  I mistake  not,  one  of  the  Gospels, 
into  a Tschuktschi  dialect,  printed  in  Russian  char-  \ 
acters;  but  partly  from  the  language  being  totally  \ 
deficient  in  words  to  express  new  and  abstract  ideas,  ’ 
and  partly  for  want  of  letters  to  represent  the  strange 
and  uncouth  sounds  that  are  found  in  it,  I was  assu- 
red by  those  capable  of  forming  an  opinion  on  the 
subject,  that  the  version  was  wholly  unintelligible. 

Polygamy  is  general  among  them,  and  they  change 
their  wives  as  often  as  they  please.  Still,  though 
the  women  are  certainly  slaves,  they  have  more  in-  ^ 
fluence,  and  are  subjected  to  less  labour,  than  with  I 
many  other  savage  nations.  Among  other  heathen- 
ish and  detestable  customs  is  the  inhuman  one  of  de- 
stroying all  deformed  children,  and  even  those  who  I 
appear  too  delicate  easily  to  rear,  and  all  their  old  \ 
people,  as  soon  as  they  become  unfit  for  the  fatigues  \ 
and  hardships  of  a nomade  life.  Two  years  ago  | 
there  was  an  instance  of  this  in  the  case  of  one  of  I 
their  wealthiest  and  most  respected  chiefs.  Walet-  | 
ka’s  father  became  infirm  and  tired  of  life,  and  was  j 
put  to  death  at  his  own  express  desire  by  some  of  iL 
his  nearest  relations.  * ^ 

Every  tribe  and  every  caravan  is  accompanied 
by  one  or  more  schamans,  who  are  consulted  on  all 
important  occasions,  and  their  decisions  are  rare- 
ly controverted.  The  extent  of  their  power  was 

* This  is  a profanation  of  that  hallowed  rite  which  cannot  be 
too  severely  reprobated.  What  claims  to  Christianity  can  its 
professed  ministers  have,  who  thus  prostitute  their  sacred  office, 
and  recklessly  violate  all  its  obligations  '(—Am.  Ed. 

L 


122 


Wrangell’s  polar  expebition. 


shown,  among  other  instances,  by  a terrible  exhibi* 
tion  of  it  at  Ostrownoje  fair  in  1814.  A sudden 
and  violent  disease  broke  out,  and  it  carried  off  not 
only  many  of  the  Tschuktschi  themselves,  but  also 
a great  number  of  reindeer,  which  form  their  chief 
wealth.  After  having  in  vain  had  recourse  to  their 
usual  conjurations,  drummings,  and  jumpings,  the 
schamans  held  a general  consultation  among  them- 
selves, in  which  it  was  determined  that  one  of  the 
most  honoured  chiefs,  whose  name  was  Kotschen, 
must  be  sacrificed  to  appease  the  incensed  spirits. 

Kotschen,  however,  was  so  highly  respected  by 
the  whole  nation,  that,  notwithstanding  the  implicit 
obedience  usually  rendered  to  the  commands  of  the 
schamans^  their  decision  on  this  occasion  was  reject- 
ed. But,  as  the  sickness  continued  to  rage,  and  as 
neither  presents,  menaces,  nor  severe  treatment* 
were  of  any  avail  in  inducing  the  schamans  to  change 
their  resolution,  Kotschen  himself,  like  another  Cur- 
tins, declared  his  willingness  to  submit.  Still,  so 
great  was  the  love  borne  to  him  by  all,  that  no  one 
could  be  found  who  was  willing  to  execute  the  sen- 
tence, until  at  last  his  own  son,  prevailed  on  by  his 
father’s  entreaties,  and  terrified  by  his  threatened 
curse,  plunged  a knife  into  his  heart,  and  gave  the 
body  to  the  schamans. 

It  is  remarkable  that  Schamanism  has  no  settled 
dogmas  of  any  kind ; it  is  not  a system  of  belief 
taught  or  handed  down  from  one  to  another,  but, 
though  so  widely  diffused,  seems  to  originate  with 
each  individual  separately,  as  the  fruit  of  a highly- 
excited  imagination,  acted  upon  by  external  impres- 
sions, which,  in  their  character,  closely  resemble 
each  other  throughout  the  deserts  of  Northern  Si- 

* It  is  not  unusual  to  chastise  a schaman  severely,  in  order  to 
induce  him  to  withdraw  or  alter  a sentence  which  he  may  have 
pronounced,  and  the  attempt  sometimes  succeeds ; but  if  he 
has  fortitude  to  hold  out,  his  reputation  is  sure  to  be  enhanced 
thereby. 


THE  SCHAMANS. 


123 


beria.  The  schamans  have  been  represented  as  being  1 
universally  mere  knavish  deceivers  ; and  no  doubt 
this  is  true  of  many  of  them,  who  go  about  the  coun- 
try exhibiting  all  kinds  of  juggling  tricks  to  obtain  у 
presents  ; but  the  history  of  not  a few  is,  I believe,  j 
very  different.  Certain  individuals  are  born  with  I 
ardent  imaginations  and  excitable  nerves.  They  \ 
grow  up  amid  a general  belief  in  ghosts,  schamans^  ! 
and  mysterious  powers  exercised  by  the  latter.  The 
credulous  youth  is  strongly  affected,  and  aspires  to  ^ 
participate  in  these  supernatural  communications 
and  powers  ; but  no  one  can  teach  him  how  he  shall 
do  so.  He  retires,  therefore,  from  his  fellows  ; his 
imagination  is  powerfully  wrought  upon  by  solitude  ; 
by  the  contemplation  of  the  gloomy  aspect  of  sur- 
rounding nature  ; by  long  vigils  and  fasts,  and  by  the  \ 
use  of  narcotics  and  stimulants,  until  he  becomes  ) 
persuaded  that  he  too  has  seen  the  mysterious  ap-  ! 
paritions  of  which  he  has  heard  from  his  boyhood,  i 
He  is  then  received  as  a schaman,  with  many  cere-  ( 
monies,  performed  in  the  silence  and  darkness  of  the 
night,  is  given  the  magic  drum,  &c.  Still,  all  his 
actions  continue,  as  before,  to  be  the  result  of  his 
individual  character.  A true  schaman,  therefore,  is  , 
not  a cool  and  ordinary  deceiver,  but  rather  a psycho-  j 
logical  phenomenon,  by  no  means  unworthy  of  at-  i 
tention.  Always  after  seeing  them  operate,  they  | 
have  left  on  my  mind  a long-continued  and  gloomy  I 
impression.  The  wild  look,  the  bloodshot  eyes,  j 
the  labouring  breast,  the  convulsive  utterance,  the  j 
seemingly  involuntary  distortion  of  the  face  and  \ 
whole  body,  the  streaming  hair,  the  hollow  sound  of  j 
the  drum,  all  conspired  to  produce  the  effect ; and  I jf 
can  well  conceive  that  these  should  appear  to  the  Уд 
superstitious  and  ignorant  savage  as  the  work  of  / | 
evil  spirits. 

Leaving  this  subject,  I proceed  to  give  some  ac- 
count of  the  Tschuktschi  camp.  The  tent  of  a chief 
may  be  distinguished  among  every  ten  or  twenty  by 


124  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

its  greater  size  and  height.  It  was  usually  pitched 
near  a tree,  on  the  branches  of  which  hung  bows, 
arrows,  quivers,  clothing,  skins,  and  household  arti- 
cles ; and  a few  choice  reindeer  were  tethered  near 
it,  and  fed  with  fine  moss.  Fires  were  burning  in 
the  open  air  as  well  as  in  the  tents ; and  men  and 
women,  clothed  in  furs  and  covered  with  hoar-frost, 
were  moving  about  as  gayly  as  if  it  were  summer, 
in  a cold  of  — 41°. 

The  tents,  called  namely  have  an  opening  in  the 
centre  for  the  smoke  to  escape,  and  within  them  are 
one  or  more  pologs  or  small  sheds.  The  polog  is  a 
sort  of  square  box,  formed  of  skins  stretched  over 
laths,  and  so  low  that  persons  inside  can  only  sit  on 
the  ground,  or,  at  the  most,  move  a little  on  their 
knees.  It  has  no  opening  for  admitting  air  or  light, 
and  is  entered  by  creeping  through  the  smallest  pos- 
sible aperture,  which  is  then  carefully  closed.  An 
earthen  vase  filled  with  train  oil,  and  furnished  with 
a wick  of  moss,  gives  light  and  warmth,  and  the  heat 
of  this  place  is  so  great,  that  the  occupants  wear 
scarcely  any  clothing  during  the  most  intense  cold. 
There  are  often  two  or  three  of  these  pologs  under 
one  namely  each  containing  one  of  the  wives  of  the 
master  of  the  tent,  with  her  children. 

Leutt  invited  me  to  pay  him  a visit,  and  I rejoiced 
at  an  opportunity  of  seeing  something  of  their  do- 
mestic arrangements  ; but,  as  soon  as  1 had  succeed- 
ed in  creeping  into  the  pologs  I was  wellnigh  suffo- 
cated by  the  fumes  from  the  stinking  oil,  and  the 
evaporation  from  six  almost  naked  people.  My 
awkward  entrance  and  disconcerted  air  excited  the 
merriment  of  my  host’s  wife  and  daughter,  who 
were  engaged  in  decking  their  hair  with  beads  in 
honour  of  my  visit.  They  placed  before  me  some 
reindeer  meat  in  a dirty  wooden  vessel,  adding  a lit- 
tle rancid  oil  to  improve  the  flavour : I was  obliged 
to  get  down  a morsel  or  two  of  it,  while  my  host  ex- 
patiated on  the  excellence  of  his  wife’s  cookery  in 


GAMES  OF  THE  TSCHÜKTSCHI. 


125 


broken  Russian,  swallowing  at  the  same  time  a quan- 
tity of  meat  and  broth,  without  salt,  to  which  this 
people  have  a great  aversion.  I shortened  my  stay 
as  much  as  possible,  but  my  clothes  retained  for 
many  days  the  smell  of  the  polog.  It  is  wonderful 
how  they  can  endure  such  a pestiferous  atmosphere, 
and  still  it  does  not  seem  to  injure  their  health,  for 
they  are  a remarkably  strong  and  vigorous  race. 
They  are  distinguished  from  the  other  Asiatic  tribes 
by  their  stature  and  by  their  physiognomy,  which 
appears  to  me  to  resemble  thaJ;  of  the  Americans, 
though  their  language  is  different.  They  call  them- 
selves Tschekto,  people. 

Another  Tschuktschi  chief,  named  Makomol,  in- 
vited me  to  see  a race  on  the  ice  near  his  camp,  and 
came  for  me  in  his  sledge.  We  found  a number  of 
persons  assembled  to  witness  the  contest,  and  lining 
both  sides  of  the  course.  The  three  prizes  consist- 
ed of  a blue  foxskin,  a beaver  skin,  and  two  partic- 
ularly fine  walrus  teeth.  At  a given  signal  the 
competitors  started,  and  we  could  not  but  admire 
the  surprising  fleetness  of  the  reindeer,  as  well  as 
the  skill  of  the  drivers.  The  victors  were  loudly  ap- 
plauded by  the  whole  assembly,  but  especially  by 
their  countrymen,  whose  suffrages  they  appeared 
principally  to  value. 

The  sledge-race  was  followed  by  a foot-race, 
which  I thought  still  more  curious  in  its  way.  The 
runners  were  clad  in  the  usual  heavy,  cumbrous  fur 
dress,  in  which  we  moved  with  difficulty,  yet  they 
bounded  as  lightly  and  swiftly  over  the  snow  as  our 
best  runners  in  their  light  jackets  and  thin  shoes. 
I was  particularly  struck  by  the  length  of  the  race, 
which  could  have  been  scarcely  less  than  fifteen 
wersts.  The  victors  received  prizes  of  inferior  val- 
ue, and  some  slight  applause ; the  Tschuktschi  ap- 
pearing to  attach  a much  higher  honour  to  success 
in  the  sledge-race.  After  the  games  were  ended  the 
whole  party  were  entertained  with  boiled  reindeer 


126  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


meat,  cut  up  in  small  pieces,  and  served  in  large 
wooden  bowls  placed  on  the  snow.  Every  one 
came  to  receive  his  portion,  and  the  order  and  quiet- 
ness which  prevailed  were  quite  remarkable : nei- 
ther during  the  races  nor  at  the  meal  which  follow- 
ed did  I see  any  crowding,  pushing,  or  quarrelling. 
Indeed,  the  general  good  behaviour  was  such  as  is 
not  always  met  with  in  more  civilized  countries  on 
similar  occasions. 

The  next  day  a large  party  of  Tschuktschi,  both 
men  and  women,  came  to  visit  and  take  leave  of  me. 
1 had  nothing  to  set  before  the  ladies  except  tea  and 
sugar- candy  : they  were  pleased  with  the  sugar,  but 
would  not  touch  the  tea.  After  this  scanty  enter- 
tainment I distributed  among  them  blue,  red,  and 
white  beads,  and  the  good-humour  of  the  party  was 
such  that  the  females  offered  to  show  me  one  of 
their  dances.  They  stood  up  in  a circle,  moving 
their  feet  and  body  backward  and  forward  without 
changing  their  place,  and  beating  the  air  with  their 
hands.  After  this  three  distinguished  performers 
commenced  a favourite  national  dance,  which  was 
much  admired  by  the  spectators  generally  ; but  we 
strangers  could  see  only  three  misshapen  oily  fig^ 
ures,  who  made  a number  of  frightful  grimaces,  and 
jumped  to  and  fro  until  exhaustion  obliged  them  to 
desist.  The  interpreter  recommended  that  a small 
cup  of  brandy  and  a little  tobacco  should  be  given  to 
each  of  the  three  dancers.  This  was  done  ; and 
the  whole  party  soon  after  dispersed,  with  repeated 
invitations  to  visit  them  in  their  own  country.  The 
sixth  day  after  our  arrival  the  fair  terminated.  The 
chiefs  paid  me  one  more  formal  visit,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  renewing  their  assurances  of  a friendly  re- 
ception, and  then  took  their  departure  in  five  or  six 
different  caravans : the  rest  of  the  assemblage  sep- 
arated in  various  directions  at  the  same  time  ; and 
the  next  fall  of  snow  obliterated  all  traces  of  the 
busy  scene,  the  loneliness  of  which  was  only  disturb- 


SECOND  ICE  JOURNEY. 


127 


ed  by  the  foxes  and  wolverines,  who  resorted  there 
to  look  for  bones  and  other  remnants  of  food  that 
might  have  been  left. 

I quitted  Ostrownoje  on  the  16th  of  March  ; and 
as  the  dogs  had  been  refreshed  by  good  food  and 
rest,  and  the  snow  was  well  beaten  by  the  number 
of  travellers,  our  journey  was  a rapid  one : we  reach- 
ed Nishne  Kolymsk  in  three  days. 


CHAPTER  VIL 

Second  Ice  Journey. — Preparations. — Plan. — Departure.— Bear- 
Hunt. — First  Encampment  on  the  Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea.— Four 
Pillar  Island. — Ice  broken  up  and  covered  with  Sea-Water. — 
Hummocks.— Deposite  of  Provisions.— State  of  the  Ice. — 
Easter. — White  Bears. — The  Bear  Islands. — Return  to  Nish- 
ne Kolymsk. 

The  preparations  for  our  second  journey  over  the 
ice  resembled  in  most  particulars  those  already  de- 
scribed, being  only  much  more  extensive,  as  our 
journey  was  intended  to  be  much  longer,  and  our 
party  more  numerous.  Some  additional  articles, 
however,  appeared  to  be  requisite  on  the  present  oc- 
casion, as  our  nightly  halts  would  be  made  on  the 
ice  at  a distance  from  land,  and  we  might  expect 
frequently  to  encounter  hummocks  of  ice  similar 
to  those  we  had  met  with  at  Schelagskoj  Noss. 
The  advanced  season  rendered  it  also  probable  that 
we  might  sometimes  find  the  snow  imperfectly  fro- 
zen. On  these  accounts  we  took  with  us  crowbars 
for  breaking  the  ice,  a portable  boat  made  of  skins 
for  crossing  lanes  of  open  water,  and  a quantity  of 
лѵЬаІеЬопе  to  bind  under  the  runners  of  our  sledges 
whenever  we  came  to  places  either  covered  with 
soft  snow,  or  with  crystals  of  salt  left  by  the  over- 


128  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

flowing  of  the  sea-water.  I added  to  the  instru- 
ments a dipping-needle  and  a sounding-line.  We 
took  no  more  than  thirty  days’  provisions  for  our- 
selves and  our  dogs  (of  which  we  had  240),  trusting 
that  our  stock  might  occasionally  be  replenished  by 
success  in  bear-hunting. 

Especial  care  was  bestowed  on  the  selection  and 
preparation  of  the  travelling-sledges  that  were  to 
serve  us  throughout  the  expedition : the  six  best  and 
longest  ones,  and  the  strongest  and  best  dogs,  were 
set  apart  for  this  purpose ; while  the  stores  and  pro- 
visions were  to  be  conveyed  in  fourteen  other  sledg- 
es, which  were  to  be  sent  back  to  Nishne  Kolymsk 
as  they  should  be  emptied.  The  dogs  belonging  to 
the  travelling-sledges  were  sent  forward  to  Suchar- 
noje,  where  they  arrived  on  the  16th  of  March,  and 
were  prepared  for  the  journey  by  good  feeding  and 
rest.  M.  Matiuschkin  followed  on  the  22d,  to  super- 
intend the  distribution  and  packing  of  the  stores, 
and  I myself  reached  there  on  the  25th,  when  I 
found  everything  in  perfect  order  for  our  departure. 
The  sledges  were  all  packed,  the  lading  of  each 
weighing  about  30  pood  ; the  runners  had  been  cov- 
ered with  a thick  coat  of  smooth  ice,  and  the  dogs 
were  in  excellent  condition.  My  companions  were 
M.  Matiuschkin,  the  retired  Sergeant  Reschetnikow, 
and  the  sailor  Nechoroschkow.  We  were  joined, 
likewise,  by  a merchant  of  Kolymsk  named  Be- 
reshnoi,  who  had  requested  to  be  allowed  to  accom- 
pany us  on  his  own  account,  and  in  two  of  his  own 
sledges.  The  drivers  1 had  selected  for  the  travel- 
ling-sledges were  three  Cossacks,  a Russian  peas- 
ant, and  two  Jukahirs.  The  provision-sledges  were 
driven  partly  by  Cossacks  and  partly  by  residents 
of  Kolymsk  and  Jukahirs. 

We  started  on  the  26th  of  March,  with  a light 
S.E.  breeze,  a cloudy  sky,  and  a temperature  of 
-[-21°,  and  slept  at  the  lesser  Baranow  Rock,  at  the 
same  powarna  where  we  had  halted  in  our  first  jour- 


DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  BARANOW  ROCKS.  129 


ney.  We  found  here  a quarrtity  of  driftwood,  and 
loaded  our  sledges  with  as  much  as  they  could  carry, 
forming  a stock  of  fuel  which,  with  due  frugality, 
would  last  twenty-five  days. 

My  instructions  directed  me  to  begin  our  research- 
es at  Cape  Schelagskoj : but,  after  our  recent  journey 
to  that  cape,  I judged  it  more  advisable,  for  several 
reasons,  to  proceed  directly  to  the  north,  and  start 
from  the  Baranow  Rocks.  First,  our  deposites  of 
provisions,  on  which  the  success  of  the  expedition 
mainly  depended,  might  not  have  been  safe  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Tschuktschi  ; secondly,  the 
immense  hummocks  which  I had  seen  on  that  part 
of  the  coast  would  have  presented  a formidable  ob- 
stacle to  our  progress ; and,  thirdly,  so  large-  a por- 
tion of  the  short  remaining  season  would  have  been 
consumed  in  reaching  the  cape,  and  our  dogs  would 
have  been  so  wearied  that  we  should  probably  have 
accomplished  very  little  towards  the  true  object  of 
our  journey. 

On  the  27th,  at  11  A.M.,  as  soon  as  the  mist  had 
cleared  away,  we  took  our  departure  in  a due  north- 
erly direction.  The  twenty-two  sledges  of  which 
our  caravan  consisted  formed  a line  of  more  than 
half  a werst  in  length,  so  that  the  foremost  and 
hindmost  of  the  party  often  lost  sight  of  each  other. 
When  we  had  gone  two  worsts  from  the  coast,  we 
found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a chain  of  hummocks, 
about  seven  worsts  in  breadth,  running  parallel  with 
the  shore  ; they  were  high  and  rugged,  and  the  hol- 
lows among  them  were  filled  with  loose  snow,  so 
that  the  passage  was  difficult ; and  about  the  middle 
of  the  group  we  came  to  a wide  fissure  in  the  ice. 
After  three  hours  labour  we  found  ourselves  out- 
side of  the  chain,  nine  worsts  from  the  shore,  on  an 
extensive  plain  of  ice,  broken  only  by  a few  scat- 
tered masses,  resembling  rocks  in  the  ocean.  The 
hope  of  being  able  to  pursue  our  way  uninterrupt- 
edly made  us  regard  the  view,  at  first,  with  some- 


130  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


thing  of  the  pleasure  which  sailors  feel  at  the  sight 
of  the  open  sea,  after  passing  through  intricate  chan- 
nels among  dangerous  rocks.  The  dogs  quickened 
their  pace  of  their  own  accord,  as  if  sharing  our 
feelings  ; and  after  we  had  gone  eleven  wersts  far- 
ther, I halted  to  give  them  rest,  and  to  wait  for  the 
provision-sledges.  They  had  just  lain  down  in  the 
snow,  when  an  enormous  white  bear  made  his  ap- 
pearance from  behind  a hummock,  looking  as  if  he 
meant  to  attack  us  ; but  the  loud  barking  and  howl- 
ing of  the  dogs  soon  made  him  take  to  flight.  The 
whole  party  followed  in  quick  pursuit,  with  guns, 
spears,  and  bows  and  arrows.  The  chase  lasted 
three  hours.  The  bear,  after  receiving  three  ar- 
rows and  two  balls  in  his  body,  seemed  enraged 
rather  than  subdued  by  his  wounds,  and  turned  fu- 
riously on  the  foremost  of  his  pursuers.  At  that 
instant  another  ball  struck  him  in  the  breast,  and 
turned  his  rage  on  a new  assailant : the  Cossack 
who  had  fired  the  shot  dexterously  received  the  en- 
raged brute  on  his  lance,  directing  its  point  into  his 
mouth,  and  with  admirable  skill  and  force  succeed- 
ed in  overthrowing  him,  when  the  other  hunters 
hastened  to  aid  their  companion,  and  the  beast  was 
soon  despatched.  He  measured  above  nine  feet 
from  snout  to  tail,  was  very  fat,  and  so  heavy  that 
twelve  good  dogs  could  scarcely  drag  him.  We 
judged  that  he  must  have  weighed  above  thirty-five 
pood. 

While  this  was  going  on  some  of  the  provision- 
sledges  came  up,  the  drivers  of  which  told  us  that 
two  of  their  companions  had  been  overset  in  a deep 
cleft  among  the  hummocks,  and  could  not  be  extri- 
cated without  additional  help.  I immediately  had 
three  sledges  emptied  and  sent  to  their  aid  ; and,  to 
our  great  joy,  the  poor  men  rejoined  us  two  hours 
afterward,  quite  uninjured,  though  very  cold  and  wet. 

The  day  was  now  so  far  spent,  and  both  men  and 
dogs  were  so  wearied  by  their  exertions,  that  we  de- 


ECONOMY  OF  FUEL  AND  PROVISIONS.  131 

lermined  to  stay  where  we  were  for  the  night.  The 
tent  before  described  formed  the  centre  of  the  little 
camp,  and  four  smaller  ones,  or  'pologi^  belonging  to 
the  merchant  Bereshnoi  and  to  the  wealthiest  of 
our  drivers,  were  pitched  near  it ; while  the  sledges 
were  drawn  up  so  as  to  form  an  outer  circle,  within 
which  the  dogs  were  tethered.  This  arrangement 
afforded  entire  security  against  any  sudden  attack 
by  bears,  for  they  could  not  approach  the  encamp- 
ment without  being  discovered  at  some  distance  by 
the  keen  scent  of  the  dogs.  The  weather  was  beau- 
tiful, and  we  availed  ourselves  of  the  bright  evening 
twilight  to  warm  ourselves  before  lying  down  to 
rest,  by  throwing  spears  at  a mark.  A piece  of  ice 
was  made  to  represent  a bear,  certain  spots  on  it 
were  marked  as  the  eyes,  the  nose,  and  the  heart, 
and  whoever  hit  one  of  these  was  declared  entitled 
to  join  in  the  next  bear-hunt.  During  these  exer- 
cises some  of  the  party  were  engaged  in  repairing 
the  damages  the  sledges  had  sustained  among  the 
hummocks ; others  in  skinning  and  cutting  up  the 
bear,*  in  preparing  supper,  &c.  In  the  latter  the 
utmost  frugality  was  observed  in  respect  to  wood ; 
the  care  of  the  fuel  was  intrusted  to  one  of  the  Cos- 
sacks, whose  duty  it  was  to  see  that  the  least  pos- 
sible quantity  was  employed  in  boiling  the  tea  and 
soup,  to  extinguish  the  fire  the  moment  the  cooking 
was  over,  and  to  preserve  the  smallest  fragment  of 
the  embers  for  the  next  day’s  use  ; nor  were  we  less 
careful  in  regard  to  provisions. 

On  the  following  day  (March  28th)  one  of  our  pro- 
vision-sledges being  emptied,  was  sent  back  ; the 
temperature  was  + in  the  morning,  and  + lOo  in 
the  evening.  We  proceeded  in  a N.  15°  W.  direc- 
tion, and  steered  our  course  by  some  ice -hills  that 

* The  dogs  have  a remarkable  aversion  to  bears’  flesh  as  long 
as  it  is  warm,  and  will  not  then  touch  it  even  though  pressed  by 
hunger  ; but  after  it  is  cold  they  eat  it  with  avidity. 


132  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


were  visible  in  the  distance.  We  were  favoured  by 
a southeasterly  wind,  and  by  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  ice.  At  noon  we  halted  for  our  daily  observa- 
tions, which  gave  the  latitude  69°  58' ; and  the  great- 
er Baranow  Rock  bore  S.  73|o  E.  by  compass.  We 
met  with  numerous  traces  of  stone-foxes,  which 
appeared  to  lead  in  the  direction  we  were  going : 
this  had  the  good  effect  of  making  our  dogs  quicken 
their  pace.  After  proceeding  forty-eight  wersts  we 
formed  our  encampment  for  the  night,  in  the  man- 
ner before  described.  The  observed  latitude  was 
70°  12^  ; the  greater  Baranow  Rock  lay  in  a S.  56^ 
E.  direction,  at  a distance  of  about  thirty-nine  Ital- 
ian miles ; and  the  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle  was 
78°  15'  N. 

We  already  felt  the  ill  effects  of  the  reflection 
from  the  snow  on  our  eyes  : the  weather  had  been 
cloudless,  and  every  one  complained  more  or  less 
of  inflammation  and  acute  pain.  Some  black  crape, 
therefore,  which  I had  brought  for  the  purpose,  was 
now  cut  up  to  cover  spectacles  and  form  veils  for 
the  whole  party,  and  this  afforded  some  protection. 
The  natives  applied  snuff  to  their  eyes  every  even- 
ing, which  increased  the  pain  during  the  night,  but 
made  them  better  in  the  morning.  We  considered 
this  remedy  too  violent,  and  contented  ourselves 
with  washing  the  part  with  spirits,  which  had  the 
effect  of  lessening  the  pain  and  inflammation. 

On  the  29th  of  March  we  had  a clouded  sky  and 
a mild  S.E.  breeze,  with  a temperature  of  + 14°  in 
the  morning,  and  — 4°  in  the  evening.  We  kept  on 
in  the  same  direction,  and  found  our  latitude  at  noon 
70°  19' : after  proceeding  two  wersts  beyond  this 
spot,  we  discovered,  through  the  mist,  land  bearing 
N.  39°  W.,  and  directed  our  course  towards  it,  in  the 
hope  of  making  a discovery. 

Lyssjew,  Piischkarew,  and  Leontjevv,  in  1769,  laid 
down  the  position  of  the  Bear  Islands,  placing  the 
most  easterly  of  them  in  71°  58' ; according  to  this, 


DISCOVERY  OF  LAND. 


133 


the  land  before  us  could  not  belong  to  that  group. 
Its  form  and  size  appeared  constantly  varying : 
sometimes  it  looked  high  and  of  considerable  ex- 
tent, sometimes  it  appeared  low,  and  at  other  times 
it  disappeared  altogether,  so  that  some  of  our  party 
began  to  suspect  that  we  had  only  been  deceived  by 
one  of  the  optical  illusions  so  common  on  the  Polar 
Sea.  But  when  we  had  approached  within  sixteen 
wersts  of  the  object  of  our  doubts  and  hopes,  we 
clearly  discovered  that  it  really  was  an  island,  of  no 
great  size  or  elevation,  having  on  it  three  pillar- like 
masses  of  rock  of  different  heights.  Two  wersts 
distant  from  it  we  had  to  pass  some  hummocks  : at 
length,  however,  we  reached  a promontory,  and  per- 
ceived behind  it  a bay,  on  the  sloping  shores  of 
which  we  were  not  a little  gratified  at  finding  drift- 
wood. This,  and  the  weariness  of  our  dogs,  who 
had  come  forty-six  wersts,  induced  us  to  halt  at  once 
for  the  night : the  last  provision-sledges  did  not 
come  up  until  two  hours  later. 

While  our  people  were  pitching  the  tents  and  pre- 
paring supper,  we  availed  ourselves  of  the  remains 
of  daylight  to  climb  the  hill  on  which  the  three  pil- 
lars are  situated.  From  the  shore  to  this  point, 
which  is  the  highest  in  the  island,  the  ground  is  cov- 
ered with  fragments  of  granitic  porphyry,  gradually 
increasing  in  size,  the  highest  pieces  lying  imme- 
diately around  the  pillars.  The  pillars  themselves 
consist  of  horizontal  layers  of  the  same  rock  five 
inches  in  thickness.  In  two  of  them  there  are  con- 
siderable cracks,  running  throughout  the  whole  mass 
from  below  upward,  and  in  a N.  60°  E.  direction, 
parallel  with  the  outer  sides  or  walls.  Hence  it  ma}^ 
be  concluded  that  these  three  masses  of  stone  once 
formed  part  of  a single  large  rock,  and  that  their 
separation  and  present  form  have  resulted  from  ex- 
posure to  the  weather  or  from  other  external  causes. 
We  measured  them,  and  found  the  tallest  48.3  feet 
in  height,  and  91  feet  in  circumference  near  the 
M 


134  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ground.  The  form  is  something  like  the  body  of  a 
man,  with  a sort  of  cap  or  turban  on  his  head,  but 
Avithout  arms  or  legs.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  island  there  is  a fourth  pillar-like  rock  of  rather 
smaller  size,  so  that  we  gave  to  it  the  name  of  Four 
Pillar  Island.  We  found  near  our  camp  two  old 
wooden  sledge-runners  and  some  reindeer  sinews, 
showing  that  the  place  had  been  visited  by  others. 

We  returned  by  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  and 
reached  the  coast  after  a walk  of  five  wersts.  On 
approaching  our  little  camp,  we  were  greeted  by  the 
welcome  sight  of  several  blazing  fires,  round  which 
our  companions  were  pursuing  their  various  occupa- 
tions with  more  than  usual  cheerfulness,  and  we 
hastened  to  share  their  enjoyment.  On  tlie  follow- 
ing day  (March  30th)  we  had  in  the  morning  a tem- 
perature of  0,  with  a light  S.E.  breeze  and  a cloud- 
ed sky  : and  in  the  evening  + 7°.  At  noon  we  re- 
marked a halo  round  the  sun’s  disk. 

1 had  determined  to  halt  here  for  one  day,  as  it 
would  afford  an  opportunity  of  sending  back  two 
more  empty  provision-sledges,  and  of  preparing  a 
store  of  finely-broken  driftwood.  While  M.  Mati- 
uschkin  went  round  the  island  in  a sledge  for  the 
purpose  of  surveying  its  coast,  I was  occupied  in 
making  various  observations.  By  a meridian  alti- 
tude of  the  sun  I found  the  latitude  of  our  encamp- 
ment to  be  70°  37',  and  its  longitude  0^  4F  E.  from 
Sucharnoje,  the  variation  14°  6'  E.  by  corresponding 
azimuths,  and  the  dip  79^  3',  by  observations  in 
which  the  poles  of  the  needle  were  changed  several 
times.  In  order  also  to  deduce  the  dip,  I made  a 
series  of  experiments  on  the  oscillation  of  the  nee- 
dle, but  the  results  disagreed  so  much  with  each 
other  that  I lost  all  confidence  in  my  inclinatorium 
for  that  particular  purpose.  The  most  successful 
experiment  showed  that,  when  the  instrument  was 
in  the  magnetic  meridian,  the  needle  made  exactly 
181  vibrations  in  five  minutes  by  the  chronometer, 


FOUR  PILLAR  ISLAND. 


135 


and  that,  when  the  instrument  was  placed  in  a direc- 
tion perpendicular  to  the  magnetic  meridian,  the 
needle  made  only  177  vibrations  in  the  same  time, 
лѵЬісІі  would  give  a dip  of  but  75®  30'. 

Towards  evening  M.  Matiuschkin  returned,  having 
completed  his  survey,  from  which  we  drew  a map. 
From  the  western  shore  two  small  islands  were  vis- 
ible, but  the  thick  mist  prevented  their  distance 
being  accurately  judged  of. 

The  position  of  this  island,  its  form,  its  pillars  of 
rock,  and,  finally,  the  two  islets  lying  to  the  west 
and  northwest,  lead  me  to  believe  that  it  is  the  same 
as  that  described  by  Leontjew*  as  the  most  eastern 
of  the  Bear  Islands.  It  is  true  that  he  places  that 
island  1°  2T  farther  to  the  north ; but  this  differ- 
ence, great  as  it  is,  proves  nothing  against  the  iden- 
tity of  the  two,  as  a similar  error  runs  through  all 
his  determinations  of  latitude  along  the  coast  of  the 
continent  west  of  the  Kolyma. 

We  resumed  our  journey  on  the  31st  of  March, 
with  a slightly  clouded  sky  and  a fresh  breeze  from 
the  northeast.  The  thermometer  stood  at  +7®  in 
the  morning,  and  rose  in  the  evening  to  +14°,  with  a 
strong  wind  from  the  E.N.E.  We  took  our  depar- 
ture from  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  in  a N.  5°  E. 
direction  by  compass.  At  noon  we  had  travelled 
about  1 1 worsts,  and  found  our  latitude  70®  42',  and  our 
longitude  0®  48'  E.  from  Sucharnoje.  Hitherto  we 
had  got  on  without  much  difficulty,  except  in  passing 
the  hummocks ; but  now  we  came  on  a surface  of 
ice,  which,  though  smooth,  was  covered  with  sharp 
grains  of  sea-salt,  which  soon  destroyed  the  ice-coat- 
ing of  our  sledge-runners.  They  no  longer  glided 
smoothly  along,  and  we  were  obliged  to  relieve  the 
dogs  of  our  weight.  The  farther  we  advanced,  the 
more  difficult  our  progress  became,  the  snow  being 

* Leontjew  commenced  his  explorations  in  1765,  and  contin- 
ued them  for  five  years.  He  made  three  different  journeys  over 
the  ice. — Am.  Ed. 


136  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

more  soft  and  damp,  and  the  crust  of  salt  thicker. 
The  wind,  also,  which  was  from  the  E.N.E.,  fresh- 
ened more  and  more,  bringing  with  it  a thick  fog,  so 
moist  that  our  fur  clothing  was  soon  wet  through. 
All  these  circumstances  indicated  the  vicinity  of 
open  water,  and  our  situation  became  every  moment 
more  hazardous,  as  the  gale  continued  to  increase, 
and  the  thick  mist  which  covered  the  whole  horizon 
did  not  permit  us  to  see  where  we  were  going.  To 
proceed  farther,  therefore,  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  to  halt  for  the  night  where  we  were  was  almost 
equally  so ; the  snow  and  ice  being  both  so  satura- 
ted with  salt  as  to  be  quite  undrinkable,  while  on 
this  flat  surface  we  had  no  point  of  refuge  in  the  not 
improbable  event  of  the  ice  being  broken  up  by  the 
storm.  In  this  state  of  painful  uncertainty,  the  mist 
lightened  up  in  a N.  35°  E.  direction  sufficiently  to 
allow  us  to  perceive  some  hummocks  at  the  distance 
of  about  a werst.  We  hastened  to  them,  and  en- 
camped under  the  shelter  of  a thick  wall  of  ice  five 
fathoms  in  height,  to  await  a favourable  change  of 
weather.  Here,  too,  the  layer  of  snow,  which  was 
about  a foot  thick,  was  so  mingled  with  salt,  that  I 
thought  it  probable  the  ice  might  not  be  sufficient- 
ly strong  to  afford  us  a secure  foundation  during 
the  approaching  storm  ; 1 had  a hole,  therefore,  cut 
to  examine  its  thickness,  and  was  satisfied  on  find- 
ing that  it  exceeded  three  and  a half  feet.  The 
upper  surface  of  the  snow  on  the  top  of  the  hum- 
mocks supplied  us  with  pure  and  good  water,  while 
that  in  immediate  contact  with  the  ice  had  a very 
salt  and  unpleasant  flavour.  The  storm  continued  to 
increase,  and  became  extremely  violent  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  so  much  so  that  our  tent  was  torn  by 
the  wind,  and  would  probably  have  been  carried  en- 
tirely away  had  it  not  been  secured  to  a hummock 
by  strong  fastenings.  At  four  in  the  morning  the 
storm  subsided,  and  we  put  ourselves  in  motion  in  a 
N.  10°  E.  direction  : there  was  still  a thin  mist,  and 


ICE  COVERED  WITH  SALT.  137 

the  air  was  mild,  the  thermometer  standing  at  +23°. 
In  the  evening  the  sky  cleared,  and  the  temperature 
sank  to  +7°.  Our  noon  observation  gave  70°  54' 
latitude,  and  our  longitude  by  reckoning  was  1°  8' 
E.  from  Sucharnoje.  Having  gone  24  wersts  far- 
ther, we  came  upon  tracks  of  stone- foxes  leading  in 
a northwest  direction : the  horizon  in  that  quarter 
w^as  veiled  by  a dark  blue  mist,  which  our  compan- 
ions told  us  usually  indicates  open  water.  Some  of 
the  hummocks  that  we  saw  contained  earth  and 
sand.  We  had  bound  pieces  of  whalebone  under 
our  wooden  sledge-runners,  and  found  that  they 
greatly  facilitated  our  progress  over  the  damp  snow 
and  seasalt.  Still  we  were  obliged  to  walk,  and  it 
took  us  seven  hours  to  accomplish  thirty-three 
лversts,  notwithstanding  which  our  provision-sledges 
were  so  far  behind  that  we  had  lost  sight  of  them. 
We  therefore  halted,  and  passed  a more  quiet  night 
than  the  preceding.  The  evening  and  morning  twi- 
light had  now  melted  into  one. 

On  the  morning  of  the  following  day  (April  2d) 
a northwest  wind  brought  snow,  the  temperature 
being  + 18°.  Our  course  was  N.  10°  W.  We  made 
our  way  with  great  difficulty  among  hummocks  of 
ice,  and  had  to  use  our  utmost  efforts  to  drag  the 
sledges  across  wide  strips  covered  with  large  crys- 
tals of  salt.  About  14  wersts  from  our  sleeping- 
place  we  came  in  sight  of  three  seals,  which  were 
unconcernedly  sleeping  on  the  ice  : the  dogs  rushed 
towards  them,  but  they  made  good  their  retreat  and 
disappeared  under  the  ice.  On  coming  to  the  spot 
лѵе  found  a round  hole  of  a foot  and  a half  in  diame- 
ter. The  ice  here  was  rather  more  than  a foot  in 
thickness,  very  rotten,  and  full  of  salt.  We  sound- 
ed and  found  twelve  fathoms,  with  a bottom  of  soft 
green  mud.  The  line  of  hummocks  through  which 
we  had  passed  ran  due  east  and  west,  and  there 
were  others  in  the  same  direction  about  four  wersts 
to  the  north  of  the  seals’  airhole.  We  passed 
M.2 


138  ЛVRANGELL’S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 

over  a strip  three  or  four  wersts  in  breadth,. where 
the  snow  was  deeper  and  free  from  salt;  and,  hav- 
ing made  thirty- four  wersts  in  a northerly  direction, 
we  encamped  for  the  night  under  the  shelter  of  a 
large  hummock.  By  our  reckoning  our  latitude  was 
71°  ЗГ,  and  our  longitude  1°  37'  E.  from  Sucharnoje. 

We  were  a good  deal  exhausted  by  the  efforts 
which  the  state  of  the  snow  had  rendered  necessary, 
and  by  the  unwonted  mildness  of  the  weather.  We 
determined,  therefore,  to  rest  by  day  and  to  travel 
during  the  night,  when  the  air  was  colder,  and  when 
we  should  suffer  less  from  the  dazzling  effect  of  the 
snow,  while  at  the  same  time  we  should  enjoy  un- 
interrupted twilight.  On  the  3d  of  April  I sent  back 
three  more  empty  provision-sledges,  giving  the  dri- 
vers a compass  to  aid  them  in  their  homeward 
course.  Our  noon  observation  gave  the  latitude  71^ 
32',  The  weather  was  overcast,  with  a light  breeze 
from  the  north,  the  thermometer  at  +16^,  and  damp 
snow  fell  at  night. 

We  started  shortly  after  sunset,  and  noticed  a num- 
ber of  tracks  of  stone-foxes  passing  from  W.S.W. 
to  E.N.E.  At  first  we  got  on  pretty  rapidly,  not- 
withstanding occasional  salt  patches ; but  these 
gradually  increased  until  we  had  gone  about  fifteen 
wersts,  when  we  found  ourselves  in  what  may  be 
called  a deep  salt  moor,  where  it  was  impossible  to 
proceed  farther.  I examined  the  ice  beneath  the 
brine,  and  found  it  only  five  inches  thick,  and  so 
rotten  that  it  might  easily  be  cut  through  with  a 
common  knife.  We  hastened,  therefore,  to  quit  a 
place  so  fraught  with  danger,  and,  after  going  four 
wersts  in  a S.  by  E.  direction,  reached  a smooth 
surface  covered  with  a compact  crust  of  snow.  Af- 
ter advancing  a couple  of  wersts  over  this,  I had 
the  ice  examined,  and  found  it  fourteen  inches  thick. 
The  depth  of  the  sea  was  twelve  fathoms,  and  the 
bottom  greenish  mud.  W’e  halted  one  or  two  wersts 
farther  on,  near  some  inconsiderable  hummocks, 


PERILOUS  SITUATION. 


139 


where  the  thickness  of  the  ice  and  the  depth  of  wa- 
ter were  examined,  and  found  the  same  as  before. 

Meanwhile  the  north  wind  increased  in  strength, 
and  must  have  raised  a considerable  sea  in  the  open 
water,  as  we  heard  the  sound  of  the  agitated  ele- 
ment beneath,  and  felt  the  undulatory  motion  of  the 
thin  crust  that  covered  it.  Our  position  was  at  least 
an  anxious  one ; the  more  so,  as  we  could  do  no- 
thing to  avoid  the  impending  danger.  Few  of  our 
party  slept  any,  the  dogs  alone  being  unconscious 
of  the  probability  that  the  ice  would  be  broken  up 
under  us  by  the  force  of  the  waves.  Our  latitude 
was  710  37/j  and  our  longitude  1°  45'  E.  from  Su- 
charnoje.  In  the  morning  we  had  a cloudy  sky, 
damp  snow,  and  a temperature  of  +16°,  with  a gale 
from  the  north  ; but  in  the  evening  the  wind  mod- 
erated and  shifted  to  N.E. ; the  sky  cleared,  and  the 
thermometer  showed  +9°. 

As  soon  as  the  wind  fell  and  the  weather  became 
clear,  I had  two  of  the  best  sledges  emptied,  and 
placing  in  them  provisions  for  twenty-four  hours, 
with  the  boat  and  oars,  and  some  poles  and  boards, 
proceeded  northward  to  examine  the  state  of  the 
ice,  directing  M.  Matiuschkin,  in  case  of  danger,  to 
retire  with  the  whole  party  as  far  as  might  be  need- 
ful, without  waiting  for  my  return. 

After  driving  through  the  thick  brine  with  much 
difficulty  for  seven  wersts,  we  came  to  a number  of 
large  fissures,  which  we  passed  with  some  trouble 
by  the  aid  of  the  boards  we  had  brought  with  us. 
The  ice  was  heaped  up  in  several  places  in  little 
mounds  or  hillocks,  which  at  the  slightest  touch 
sunk  into  a kind  of  slough.  This  rotten  ice  was 
scarcely  a foot  thick  : we  found  the  sea  twelve 
fathoms  deep,  and  the  bottom  green  mud.  The 
countless  fissures  in  every  direction  through  which 
the  water  came  up,  mixed  with  a quantity  of  earth, 
the  little  hillocks  above  described,  and  the  water 
standing  among  them,  all  gave  to  the  ice-field  the 


140  WRANGELL^S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 


appearance  of  a great  morass,  over  which  we  con- 
trived to  advance  two  wersts  farther  to  the  north, 
crossing  the  narrow  openings,  and  going  around  the 
larger  ones.  At  last  they  became  so  numerous  and 
so  wide  that  it  was  hard  to  say  whether  the  sea  be- 
neath was  really  still  covered  by  a connected  crust, 
or  only  by  detached  floating  fragments  of  ice,  hav- 
ing everywhere  two  or  more  feet  of  water  between 
them.  A strong  gust  of  wind  would  have  sufficed 
to  drive  these  separate  portions  against  each  other, 
and,  being  already  thoroughly  saturated  with  water, 
they  would  have  disappeared  in  a few  minutes,  leav- 
ing nothing  but  open  sea  on  the  spot  where  we  were 
standing.  It  was  manifestly  useless,  therefore,  to 
attempt  proceeding  farther ; and  we  hastened  to  re- 
join our  companions,  to  seek  vvith  them  a place  of 
greater  safety.  Our  most  northern  latitude  was  71o 
43';  and  we  were  at  a distance  of  215  wersts  in  a 
straight  line  from  the  lesser  Baranow  Rock. 

During  my  absence  M.  Matiuschkin  had  observed 
the  magnetic  dip,  and  found  it  79°  5Г.  I immedi- 
ately gave  orders  to  break  up,  and  to  take  a S.S.E. 
course. 

At  this  stage  of  my  narrative  I will  notice  the  re- 
markable skill  with  which  our  sledge-drivers  pre- 
served the  direction  of  their  course,  whether  in 
winding  among  large  hummocks,  or  on  the  open  un- 
varied field  of  snow,  where  there  were  no  objects 
to  direct  the  eye.  They  appeared  to  be  guided  by  a 
kind  of  unerring  instinct.  This  was  especially  the 
case  with  my  Cossack  driver,  Sotnik  Tatarinow, 
who  had  had  great  experience  in  his  occupation.  In 
the  midst  of  the  intricate  labyrinths  of  ice,  turning 
sometimes  to  the  right  and  sometimes  to  the  left, 
now  winding  round  a large  hummock,  now  crossing 
over  a smaller  one,  among  such  incessant  changes 
of  direction  he  seemed  to  have  a plan  of  them  all 
in  his  memory,  and  to  make  them  so  compensate 
each  other  that  we  never  lost  our  main  course,  and, 


WAVELIKE  RIDGES  OF  SNOW. 


141 


while  I was  watching  the  different  turns,  compass 
in  hand,  trying  to  discover  the  true  route,  he  appear- 
ed always  to  have  a perfect  knowledge  of  it  practi- 
cally. His  estimation  of  the  distances  passed  over, 
reduced  to  a straight  line,  generally  agreed  with  my 
calculations,  based  on  observed  latitudes  and  the 
day’s  course.  It  was  less  difficult  to  preserve  the 
true  direction  on  a plain  surface.  To  enable  us  to 
follow  as  straight  a line  as  possible,  we  endeavoured 
to  keep  our  eyes  fixed  on  some  remarkable  piece 
of  ice  at  a distance  ; and  if  there  were  none  such, 
we  were  guided  by  the  wavelike  ridges  of  snow 
(sastrugi)  which  are  formed,  both  on  the  land  and  on 
the  level  ice  of  the  sea,  by  any  wind  of  long  contin- 
uance. These  ridges  always  indicate  the  quarter 
from  which  the  prevailing  winds  blow.  The  inhab- 
itants of  the  tundras  often  travel  to  a settlement 
several  hundred  wersts  off,  with  no  other  guide  over 
these  unvaried  wastes  than  the  sastrugi.  They 
know  by  experience  at  what  angle  they  must  cross 
the  greater  and  the  lesser  waves  of  snow  in  order 
to  arrive  at  their  destination,  and  they  never  fail. 
It  often  happens  that  the  true^  permanent  sastruga 
has  been  covered  by  another  produced  by  temporary 
winds  ; but  the  traveller  is  not  to  be  deceived  there- 
by ; his  practised  eye  detects  the  change,  and,  care- 
fully removing  the  recently-drifted  snow,  he  corrects 
his  course  by  the  lower  sastruga  and  by  the  angle 
formed  by  the  two.  We  availed  ourselves  of  these 
ridges  on  the  level  ice  of  the  sea,  for  the  compass 
cannot  well  be  used  while  driving : it  is  necessary 
to  halt  in  order  to  consult  it,  and  this  loses  time. 
W'here  there  were  no  sastrugi^  we  had  recourse  to 
the  sun  or  stars  when  the  weather  was  clear,  but 
we  always  consulted  the  compass  at  least  once  ev- 
ery hour. 

After  we  had  gone  20  wersts,  the  hummocks  in- 
creased both  in  size  and  number : at  first  the  ice 
was  merely  uneven  ; but  we  soon  met  with  detach- 


142  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


ed  pieces  of  various  sizes,  gradually  increasing  un- 
til they  formed  complete  ranges  of  hummocks,  often 
80  feet  high.  These  great  masses  of  ice  were  all  of 
a greenish-blue  colour,  and  had  a strong  salt  taste. 
The  difficulty  of  working  our  way  among  them  was 
much  augmented  by  the  loose  snow  which  lay  be- 
tween, concealing  a quantity  of  sharp  fragments 
which  often  overturned  our  sledges,  and  gave  us 
many  a painful  bruise.  These  hummocks,  which 
differed  from  those  we  had  before  seen,  were  what 
are  called  winter  hummocks.  They  had  been  form- 
ed during  the  last  winter,  as  well  as  in  the  preceding 
spring  and  autumn,  when  the  ice,  broken  by  violent 
storms,  is  heaped  up  and  cemented  together  by  the 
intense  cold.  On  getting  clear  of  these  sharp-point- 
ed winter  hummocks,  we  came  upon  another  group 
of  a totally  different  aspect.  It  consisted  partly  of 
conical  elevations,  varying  in  height*  and  size,  and 
sometimes  having  long  or  round  valleys  between 
them.  As  we  saw  no  detached  masses,  we  at  first 
thought  ourselves  on  a hilly  island,  but  on  examina- 
tion it  proved  to  be  nothing  but  snow  and  ice  in  a 
somewhat  different  form.  In  the  hollows  and  on  the 
summits  of  the  elevations  we  found  the  surface  of 
the  ice  perfectly  bare.  It  was  smooth  and  even,  its 
colour  varying  from  whitish  gray  to  black  : it  had  a 
perfectly  fresh  taste,  and  was  large-grained  and 
opaque.  The  sides  of  the  hills  were  covered  with 
snow,  and  afforded  excellent  travelling.  After  pro- 
ceeding two  wersts  we  found  ourselves  in  a small 
circular  hollow,  completely  sheltered  from  every 
wind,  and  here  we  formed  our  encampment. 

On  the  5th  of  April  the  sky  was  clear,  with  a 
strong  breeze  from  S.S.E.,  the  temperature  at  +9° 
in  the  morning,  and +7°  in  the  evening.  Our  noon 
observation  gave  the  latitude  70*^  30',  and  the  longi- 

* We  measured  the  height  of  some  of  the  largest,  and  found 
it  ninety  feet. 


RETURN  OF  THE  PROVISION* SLEDGES.  143 

tude  was  1°  55'  E.  from  Sucharnoje.  After  sunset 
we  resumed  our  march  in  an  easterly  direction,  but 
at  the  end  of  three  wersts  we  found  ourselves  among 
almost  impassable  winter  hummocks,  which  appear- 
ed to  have  been  formed  upon  and  around  others,  con- 
sisting of  the  solid  ice  above  described.  We  saw  at 
some  distance  a high  black  summit,  so  closely  re- 
sembling a rock  that  I determined  to  reach  it  in 
spite  of  every  difficulty.  It  cost  us  three  hours  to 
effect  this,  and  we  had  to  break  our  way  with  crow- 
bars for  about  300  fathoms.  We  found,  however, 
that  it  was  only  an  ice-hill,  composed  entirely  of  the 
solid  ice  already  mentioned.  From  its  summit  we 
had  an  extensive  view.  To  the  north  and  east  we 
saw  impenetrable  winter  hummocks,  and  a number 
of  lanes  of  open  water : to  the  S.E.  the  surface  was 
more  even,  and  less  intersected  by  fissures. 

The  provision-sledges  had  been  so  much  injured 
that  it  was  plain  they  could  not  hold  together  much 
longer,  and  the  dogs  belonging  to  them  were  ex- 
hausted by  hard  work.  I determined,  therefore,  to 
form  a deposite  of  provisions  at  this  place,  and  to 
send  back  the  empty  sledges.  We  excavated  in  the 
iceberg  a kind  of  cellar  five  feet  deep  and  a fathom 
across  : in  this  we  packed  our  stores,  and  closed  the 
opening  with  the  firewood  which  was  to  be  left  and 
with  well-trampled  snow,  to  guard  against  the  visits 
of  the  white  bears.  I sent  the  eight  empty  sledges 
back  to  Nishne  Kolymsk  with  their  drivers,  who 
had  for  some  time  despaired  of  seeing  their  homes 
again,  and  were  so  delighted  at  the  prospect  of  a 
speedy  return  that  they  soon  completed  the  neces- 
sary preparations,  and  were  ready  to  start  before 
sunrise.  I gave  them  a compass,  and  Sergeant  Res- 
chetnikow  took  the  command  of  the  party.  The 
merchant  Bereshnoi  chose  to  remain  with  our  divis- 
ion, which  now  consisted  of  ten  persons  with  six 
sledges,  and  provisions  for  fourteen  days. 

On  the  6th  of  April  the  temperature  was  -j-lS®  in 


144  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

the  morning,  with  a S.E.  wind,  and  — 2°  in  the  even- 
ing. Throughout  the  night  we  frequently  heard 
the  noise  of  fresh  clefts  opening  in  the  ice  around  us, 
and  a hollow  rumbling  sound,  resembling  the  rolling 
of  distant  thunder.  A chain  of  high  winter  hum- 
mocks to  the  S.E.  appeared  to  form  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  recent  openings,  which  were  every- 
where visible  to  the  north  and  east.  From  these 
hummocks  we  saw  many  other  ice-hills  to  the  south, 
but  no  spaces  of  open  water.  We  followed  a toler- 
ably smooth  narrow  path  along  the  south  side  of  the 
ridge  of  hummocks,  seeking  an  opportunity  of  pen- 
etrating to  the  north.  The  ridge  was  about  a hun- 
dred feet  high : to  our  right  we  had  a plain,  thickly 
strewed  with  blocks  of  ice,  covered  with  a quantity 
of  loose  deep  snow,  and  we  inferred  from  this  ac- 
cumulation of  winter  snow  that  they  were  formed 
in  the  autumn,  and  had  been  since  undisturbed.  The 
ridge  on  our  left  had  evidently  been  thrown  up  with- 
in a few  days,  and  belonged,  therefore,  to  the  class  of 
spring  hummocks.  An  examination  of  the  recent 
fracture,  and  of  the  clefts  by  which  it  was  here  and 
there  intersected,  led  me  to  infer  that  this  ridge  had 
been  formed  in  the  following  manner:  The  sea  to 
the  north  of  us  had  been  covered  during  the  winter 
by  smooth  ice  and  compact  snow ; but  in  the  spring 
the  ice  had  broken  up,  partly  into  an  extensive  field 
and  partly  into  smaller  pieces,  which  had  been  sub- 
sequently forced  beneath  the  field,  and  had  gradually 
raised  it  into  an  oblique  position.  This  would  ac- 
count for  the  smooth,  sloping  declivity  on  the  south- 
western side,  and  for  the  perpendicular,  rugged,  and 
fragmentary  formation  on  the  northeastern  side.  On 
the  top  of  the  ridge  we  noticed  fragments  of  ice  of 
various  sizes,  apparently  so  insecurely  supported  that 
we  wondered  how  they  could  retain  their  position. 
One  block  in  particular,  which  could  hardly  be  less 
than  1000  cubic  feet,  rested  on  a fragment  of  not 
more  than  eight  cubic  feet. 


FISSURES  IN  THE  ICE. 


145 


On  the  southern  declivity  was  a horizontal  cleft 
rather  more  than  a foot  broad,  which  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  examining  to  some  extent  the  inter- 
nal formation;  and  I found,  to  my  great  surprise, 
that  the  upper  slab  or  stratum  of  ice,  which  was  iii 
this  place  eleven  feet  thick,  had  split  into  l^jvers  of 
rather  more  than  two  feet  in  thickness.  We  passed 
several  spots  of  open  water,  and  found  in  sounding 
twelve  fathoms,  with  mud  as  before.  Having  gone 
twenty-nine  wersts  along  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  which 
ran  S.  6°  E.,  without  finding  any  passage  towards 
the  north,  we  pitched  our  tent  300  fathoms  from  a 
recent  fissure,  and  near  a large  fragment  of  ice.  A 
strong  breeze  prevailed  from  the  east,  and  the  crust 
beneath  us  was  agitated  more  or  less  during  the 
whole  time  we  remained ; while  in  the  N.E.  quarter 
there  was  a loud  noise  of  the  crushing  together  of 
the  icy  masses.  Our  observation  at  noon  gave  71^ 
15'  latitude,  and  our  longitude  by  reckoning  was  2^ 
20'  E.  from  Sucharnoje. 

On  the  7th  of  April  the  weather  was  clear,  with  a 
fresh  easterly  wind,  the  thermometer  standing  at 
+ 5°  in  the  morning  and  — 6°  in  the  evening.  We 
continued  our  route  in  a southeast  direction  along 
the  margin  of  the  recent  fissure,  the  ridge  of  ice  be- 
coming lower  and  less  regular  or  continuous,  and 
the  clefts  more  and  more  numerous : we  sounded 
thirty  wersts  from  our  halting-place,  and  found 
twelve  fathoms,  the  ground  as  before.  After  trav- 
elling forty-nine  wersts,  we  halted  at  sunrise  in  lat^ 
itude  70"^  56',  our  longitude  by  reckoning  being  3° 
5'  E.  from  Sucharnoje. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th  heavy  clouds  came  up 
from  the  south,  and  the  temperature  sunk  from  + 18*^ 
to  zero.  After  proceeding  ten  wersts  we  came  to 
a wide  fissure,  across  which  we  ferried  ourselves  by 
the  aid  о/  a floating  block  of  ice.  We  tried  the  cur- 
rent, and  found  it  setting  half  a knot  in  an  E.S.E. 
direction:  soundings  12|  fathoms.  Twenty -two 


146  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

worsts  farther  on,  we  descried  in  the  horizon  in  a 
direction  S.  2“^  E.,  the  greater  Baranow  Rock,  which 
by  our  reckoning  should  have  borne  S.  3®  W.,  dis- 
tant 114  worsts.  While  we  were  discussing  this 
difference,  we  observed  the  fresh  track  of  a bear, 
and  M.  Matiuschkin  and  myself  gave  chase  in  two 
sledges  which  we  had  emptied  for  the  purpose.  We 
had  followed  the  track  for  a few  worsts,  w^hen  our 
attention  was  suddenly  arrested  by  a distant  noise 
which  seemed  rapidly  approaching,  and  soon  equal- 
led a loud  clap  of  thunder.  At  the  same  time  the 
ice  beneath  us  was  violently  agitated,  and  began  to 
open  in  various  directions.  We  thought  no  more  of 
the  bear,  but  hastened  to  join  our  companions.  As 
we  were  returning,  one  of  our  best  dogs  had  a nar- 
row escape.  He  had  been  set  at  liberty  to  pursue 
the  game,  and  had  run  in  advance  of  us  a considera- 
ble distance  : as  he  returned,  his  white  colour  made 
the  Cossacks  mistake  him  for  a bear,  and  one  of 
them  had  actually  levelled  his  gun  before  the  error 
was  discovered. 

As  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  had  not  extended  to 
the  spot  where  we  had  left  our  companions,  and  as 
our  dogs  were  tired,  we  halted  for  the  night;  the 
latitude  was  70°  46',  and  the  longitude  3°  22'  E.  of 
Sucharnoje.  Next  morning,  the  9th  of  April,  we 
continued  our  course  in  a southeast  direction,  until 
fissures,  open  water,  and  impassable  hummocks 
finally  baffled  all  our  efforts,  and  with  broken  sledges 
we  were  compelled  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the  last 
halting-place.  The  10th  was  Easter-day,  kept  as  a 
festival  throughout  the  Christian  "world,  and  espe- 
cially in  Russia.  We  joined  in  the  prayers  of  our 
far-distant  friends  by  the  prescribed  service,  which 
was  read  by  M.  Bereshnoi,  and  the  hymns  were 
sung  by  our  Cossacks  and  sledge-drivers.  A block 
of  ice  was  carved  to  represent  an  altar,  and  the  only 
wax- taper  we  possessed  was  burned  in  front  of  it. 
The  day  was  one  of  rest  and  refreshment  to  all : our 


INCREASING  GBSTACLES. 


147 


festive  fare,  it  is  true,  was  frugal  enough,  consisting 
of  a few  reindeer  tongues  and  a little  brandy;  but 
a much  greater  treat  was  a small  fire  kept  up  during 
most  of  the  day. 

On  the  11th,  the  dogs  being  rested*  as  well  as  obr- 
selves,  we  were  about  to  start,  when  one  of  the  dri- 
vers was  taken  suddenly  ill  with  violent  pains  in  the 
back,  which  made  motion  insupportable  to  him 
throughout  the  day.  We  availed  ourselves  of  the 
delay  to  repair  our  sledges.  The  temperature  was 
from  +18°  to  +120.  frequently  heard  the 

sound  resembling  thunder  in  the  distance,  occasion- 
ed by  the  crashing  of  the  ice. 

The  constantly-increasing  obstacles  in  the  direc- 
tion we  desired  to  pursue,  and  the  slender  hopes 
that  could  be  entertained  of  surmounting  them  in 
the  weakened  state  of  our  dogs,  induced  me,  after 
much  consideration,  to  determine  on  returning  to 
our  deposite  of  provisions,  of  the  safety  of  which 
our  drivers  had  for  some  time  entertained  doubts. 
Taking  a due  west  course,  we  soon  came  to  smooth 
ice  and  compact  snow,  which  enabled  us  to  accom- 
plish sixty-four  wersts  before  we  halted.  Four  Pil- 
lar Island,  which  by  our  reckoning  was  thirty-eight 
wersts  from  us,  was  just  visible  on  the  horizon  in 
the  direction  S.  62o  W.  The  noon  observations 
made  the  latitude  of  our  encampment  70^  39',  and 
the  longitude  was  1°  45'  E. 

The  next  day  we  turned  to  the  north,  and  came 
on  the  track  left  by  the  returning  provision-sledges, 
which  we  followed  across  some  hummocks.  After- 
accomplishing  fifty  wersts  we  halted  in  latitude 
710  4'. 

On  the  14th  we  discovered  numerous  fresh  tracks 
of  bears  and  stone-foxes,  which  made  us  not  a little 
apprehensive  for  the  fate  of  our  store.  I followed 
the  tracks  to  the  N.E.  with  three  of  the  lightest 
sledges,  and  soon  came  on  a deserted  bear’s  den  a 
fathom  deep  in  the  snow,  with  two  narrow  entrances 


148  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

opposite  to  each  other,  and  with  just  room  enough 
to  contain  two  bears.  In  the  neighbourhood  was  a 
seal’s  hole,  having  on  one  side  a raised  bank  of  snow, 
through  the  lower  part  of  which  there  was  a small 
opening  towards  the  icehole.  The  polar  bears  often 
throw  up  this  sort  of  parapet  close  to  a seal’s 
hole,  hnd  lie  in  wait  behind  it : as  soon  as  the  seal 
creeps  out  from  under  the  ice,  he  is  caught  by  the 
powerful  paw  of  the  bear  thrust  through  the  opening, 
which  at  one  pull  draws  him  away  from  his  only 
place  of  refuge,  and  he  is  then  soon  despatched. 
The  boldness  and  dexterity  of  the  stone-fox  in  ven- 
turing close  to  the  bear,  and  carrying  off  part  of  his 
booty,  are  very  remarkable.  He  is  truly  the  bear’s 
guest,  and  one  generally  finds  the  track  of  the  two 
animals  together.  We  now  came  on  our  old  path, 
which  we  determined  to  pursue  until  it  should  con- 
duct us  to  our  deposite  ; and  I sent  back  one  of  the 
sledges  to  tell  the  rest  of  our  companions  to  meet  us 
there.  We  found  our  former  track  in  great  measure 
broken  up.  Hummocks  had  disappeared,  and  large 
fissures  and  lanes  had  opened  since  we  had  travelled 
it  before.  These  we  were  obliged,  with  much  labour, 
either  to  cross  or  to  go  round.  At  one  place  my 
eight  dogs  fell  into  the  water,  and  must  have  dragged 
the  sledge  after  them  but  for  its  great  length,  which 
alone  saved  us.  After  eleven  hours  of  dangerous 
and  difficult  travelling,  we  reached  our  deposite,  and 
to  our  great  joy  found  it  unmolested  : we  saw  numer- 
ous traces  of  bears  on  every  side,  but,  happily,  they 
had  not  ascended  the  iceberg.  Here  we  were  soon  re- 
joined by  our  companions,  and  passed  the  next  day 
in  resting  the  dogs  and  repairing  the  sledges.  The 
temperature  was  +7o  in  the  morning,  with  a north 
wind,  and  -f  19°  in  the  evening,  with  a west  wind. 
Our  noon  observation  gave  the  latitude  71°  28'.  In 
the  night  we  were  awoke  by  a sudden  and  violent 
barking  of  the  dogs,  which  indicated  the  approach  of 
a bear.  As  we  never  undressed,  we  were  soon  on 


BEAR-HUNT. 


149 


our  feet,  and  saw  two  unusually  large  bears,  which 
were  immediately  pursued  : in  our  first  eagerness 
we  missed  our  aim,  the  animals  fled  unhurt  in  differ- 
ent directions,  and  the  hunters  scattered  themselves 
in  somewhat  disorderly  pursuit.  In  vain  I tried  to 
recall  them  : they  either  did  not  hear  me,  or  forgot 
discipline  in  the  mortification  of  seeing  their  prey 
escape.  I was  left  alone  among  some  hummocks, 
and  climbed  one  of  them  in  the  hope  of  getting  sight 
of  the  hunters,  but  I could  see  only  M.  Bereshnoi 
and  my  driver  Tantarinow,  who  were  standing  to- 
gether at  some  distance  from  me,  the  former  armed 
with  a gun,  and  the  latter  лѵіШ  a bow  and  lance. 
A third  bear  now  appeared  suddenly  from  behind 
a hummock,  looked  at  me  intently  for  a few  mo- 
ments, and  then  turned  in  the  direction  in  which  his 
companions  had  fled,  and  seemed  inclined  to  follow 
them ; but,  on  catching  sight  of  the  two  men  who 
were  standing  below,  he  made  boldly  towards  them. 
As  they  had  but  a single  charge,  their  situation  was 
somewhat  precarious ; but  Tatarinow,  trusting  to 
his  skill,  allowed  the  animal  to  come  within  three 
fathoms,  and  then  fired  and  wounded  him  in  the 
shoulder  : the  beast  fled  growling  and  bleeding,  and 
we  lost  sight  of  him  among  the  masses  of  ice.  The 
hunters  did  not  return  till  morning,  when  two  of 
their  number  were  still  missing,  and  did  not  come 
in  till  two  hours  later,  and  then  so  exhausted  that 
if  the  bears  had  attacked  them  they  must  have  fall- 
en an  easy  prey.  Thus  ended  this  unfortunate  chase, 
the  only  result  of  which  was  to  weary  both  men  and 
dogs  to  such  a degree  that  I w:as  obliged  to  remain 
another  day. 

On  the  17th  of  April  the  day  was  overcast,  with 
a light  breeze  from  the  east,  and  a temperature  of 
-f  210  in  the  morning,  and  -flfi®  in  the  evening,  with 
fine  snow.  There  were  three  halos  round  the  sun. 
After  proceeding  nine  wersts  in  a westerly  course, 
we  crossed  our  track  of  the  first  of  April : we  now 
N2 


150  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition, 

left  the  hummocks  behind,  and  came  on  a flat  sur- 
face covered  with  damp  snow  ; however,  our  whale 
bone  runners  glided  freely  along,  and  we  accomplish- 
ed forty-one  wersts  before  halting,  in  lat.  71°  26', 
and  long.  0°  03^  E.  from  Sucharnoje.  Next  day  the 
temperature  was  — 4°  in  the  morning,  with  a fresh 
Ьгеегё  from  the  east,  and  -1-5°  in  the  evening. 

As  we  had  now  arrived  at  a part  of  the  sea  which 
had  been  visited  by  Ш.  Hedenström  in  1810,  I 
thought  it  useless  to  proceed  farther  in  this  direc- 
tion, and  directed  my  course  to  the  south,  to  survey 
the  islands  we  had  seen  from  Four  Pillar  Island,  in 
the  meridian  of  which  we  now  v/ere.  This  day 
(April  18th)  we  made  forty-two  wersts,  notwith- 
standing the  violence  of  the  wind,  against  which 
the  dogs  could  sometimes  scarcely  stand.  There 
was,  at  the  same  time,  so  thick  a snowstorm  that 
the  persons  in  the  hindermost  sledges  could  not  see 
the  leading  ones,  and  were  in  danger  of  missing  the 
track,  which  was  every  moment  effaced  by  fresh 
snow.  We  therefore  tied  the  sledges  together  in 
pairs,  and  fastened  the  leading  dogs  of  each  team  to 
the  preceding  sledge.  In  this  manner  we  drove  the 
whole  day,  unable  to  see  our  way,  and  guided  solely 
by  the  compass ; finding  no  sheltering  hummock,  we 
were  forced  to  halt  at  last  on  the  open  ice-plain. 
This  night  was,  doubtless,  one  of  the  most  uncom- 
fortable of  our  journey.  We  were  exposed  to  all 
the  fury  of  the  storm,  unable  qither  to  pitch  our  tent 
or  light  a fire,  with  a temperature  of  +7°,  without 
tea  or  soup,  and  with  nothing  to  quench  our  thirst 
or  satisfy  our  hunger  but  a few  mouthfuls  of  snow, 
and  a little  rye-biscuit  and  half-spoiled  fish. ' Gladly, 
therefore,  did  we  the  next  morning  resume  our  jour- 
ney, after  extracting  ourselves  and  sledges  out  of 
the  snow,  and  the  dogs,  which  were  still  more  deep- 
ly buried.  Our  course  was  southerly,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded with  tolerable  rapidity;  but,  as  the  dark  weath- 
er and  driving  snow  still  continued,  we  were  not 


LANDING  ON  FOUR  PILLAR  ISLAND.  151 

without  fear  that  we  might  miss  Four  Pillar  Island. 
Happily,  however,  so  accurate  had  been  our  reckon- 
ing, that,  after  travelling  fifty-two  worsts,  our  course 
led  us  straight  to  a bay  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island,  which  we  did  not  discern  until  we  were  with- 
in five  worsts  of  it.  After  the  difficulties  through 
which  we  had  passed,  this  bay  was  a welcome  ha- 
ven. We  pitched  our  tent  on  terra  firma^  under  the 
shelter  of  a high  cliff,  and,  what  was  better  still,  we 
found  an  abundance  of  driftwood,  with  which  we 
soon  made  two  blazing  fires,  one  for  warming  our- 
selves and  cooking,  and  the  other  for  drying  our  wet 
clothes,  which  we  had  been  unable  to  do  for  some 
time  ; and  as  we  luxuriated  in  the  full  enjoyment  of 
the  warmth,  and  drank  our  hot  though  somewhat 
meager  soup  and  refreshing  tea,  we  soon  forgot  all 
previous  discomforts.  Nothing  disturbed  our  satis- 
faction save  the  thought  that  our  efforts  had  not 
been  rewarded  by  the  discovery  of  the  supposed 
land  of  which  we  had  been  in  search. 

The  next  morning  we  felt  quite  refreshed,  and  pro- 
ceeded N.  65°  W'.  towards  the  islands  we  had  seen 
on  the  previous  occasion,  the  temperature  being 
-1-9°.  On  arriving  at  the  first  island  we  were  most 
unexpectedly  greeted  by  the  notes  of  some  linnets, 
the  harbingers  of  spring,  and  the  first  cheerful  sounds 
we  had  heard  since  we  began  our  journey  over  the 
ice  : it  is  impossible  to  describe  the  pleasure  they 
produced. 

In  order  to  complete  the  survey  of  this  group  of 
islands  the  more  rapidly,  we  divided  the  work.  M. 
Matiuschkin  went  to  the  south,  and  I to  the  north : 
at  night  we  met  at  the  north  point  of  the  middle  isl- 
and, after  surveying  three,  which  lie  in  the  direction 
of  the  meridian.  We  halted  here  the  whole  of  the 
next  day  in  consequence  of  the  thickly-drifted  snow. 
On  the  23d  the  weather  still  continued  very  bad,  but 
as  the  drift  was  a litttle  less  severe,  we  proceeded 
to  examine  the  westernmost  island. 


152  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


Our  chart  of  the  Bear  Islands  will  show  their 
configuration  far  better  than  any  description  could 
do  ; and  I will,  therefore,  only  briefly  mention  a few 
remarks  which  we  made  during  the  survey. 

The  first  of  these  islands,  Krestowoi,  is  the  high- 
est and  largest  of  the  group.  It  is  distinguished 
from  the  rest  by  two  mountains,  the  most  southerly 
of  which  has  a rounded  summit,  and  is  about  the 
centre  of  the  island.  The  east  and  north  coasts  are 
steep  and  partly  rocky.  On  the  south  side,  where 
the  shore  is  more  shelving,  a stream  falls  into  the 
sea  ; the  sloping  shore  on  the  west  side  is  formed  of 
gravel.  We  found  driftwood  in  a small  bay  near 
the  northwestern  point  of  the  island.  It  consists 
here,  as  elsewhere  in  this  group,  chiefly  of  larch  mix- 
ed with  a few  poplars,  but  with  scarcely  any  firs. 
From  the  many  dens  and  burrows,  this  island  would 
appear  to  be  visited  by  a great  number  of  stone- 
foxes,  wolves,  and  bears,  and  to  be  inhabited  by  mul- 
titudes of  field-mice.  On  the  southern  side  we  saw 
a few  reindeer:  our  encampment  was  in  latitude  70® 
52',  and  the  longitude,  trigonometrically  deduced,  was 
P 21'  W.  from  Sucharnoje. 

The  second  island,  which  is  little  more  than  a 
mass  of  fragments  of  granite,  is  about  200  fathoms 
long  and  150  fathoms  broad  : we  found  here  only  a 
few  decayed  trunks  of  larch  trees.  This  little  island 
is  not  marked  in  Leontjew’s  chart ; and  it  was  prob- 
ably concealed  by  masses  of  ice,  which  still  surround 
it  on  every  side. 

The  third  island  is  itself  high,  but  has  no  hills ; 
there  are  a few  rocks  on  the  south  side,  and  more  on 
the  east  and  west,  where  they  run  out  some  dis- 
tance to  sea.  The  shore  is  shelving  in  the  bays. 

Near  the  east  point  of  the  island  there  was  a 
kind  of  cellar  dug  in  the  earth,  supported  by  posts  ; 
but  we  could  not  examine  the  interior,  as  it  would 
have  taken  us  too  long  to  clear  out  the  snow.  We 
found  on  the  beach  a very  old  oar,  of  the  kind  which 


BEAR  ISLANDS. 


153 


the  Jukahirs  used  in  their  wetkas  ;*  we  also  saw 
some  reindeer  sinews  and  some  human  bones,  but 
no  scull. 

On  the  fourth  island  there  are  two  long,  high 
ridges,  running  parallel  to  each  other  in  a N.N.W. 
and  E.S.E.  direction,  connected  by  a cross-ridge. 
Where  the  surface  was  clear  of  snow,  it  appeared  to 
consist  of  a thin  layer  of  gravel  and  vegetable  earth, 
covered  with  fragments  of  the  same  rock  as  that 
which  forms  the  pillars  in  the  sixth  island  already 
described.  The  cliffs  on  the  northern  shore  are  also 
of  the  same  rock.  The  southern  shore  consists  of 
steep  earth-hills,  with  a quantity  of  mammoth  bones. 
By  our  observations,  the  north  point  of  this  island 
is  in  70°  47/.  The  variation  of  the  needle  was  14° 
east. 

The  fifth  island  is  tolerably  high,  with  cliffs  of  the 
same  rock  as  that  which  forms  the  лvestern  point  of 
the  sixth  island.  Here  were  some  indications  of 
sulphur. 

The  sixth,  or  Four  Pillar  Island,  has  been  already 
described. 

During  our  halt  of  the  23d,  one  of  our  drivers, 
in  the  boasting  spirit  common  among  these  people, 
assured  us  that  he  had  been,  many  years  ago,  on  the 
first  Bear  Island,  which  he  said  was  visible  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Krestowaja  River,  from  which  it  had 
been  named ; he  farther  said  that  this  island  was 
small,  circular,  and  not  at  all  like  the  one  on  which 
we  now  were. 

Though  I had  not  much  confidence  in  the  driver’s 
story,  I resolved  not  to  omit  anything  which  could 
be  done  towards  investigating  the  subject,  and  there- 

* Weika  is  the  name  of  a light,  long,  narrow  boat,  formed  of 
three  boards,  used  principally  for  reindeer  hunting.  Usually 
only  one  man  sits  in  these  boat-s,  with  a single  oar  having  a pad- 
dle at  each  end,  which  he  plies  alternately  right  and  left.  The 
wetkas  are  very  rapid,  and  so  light  that  they  can  easily  be  drawn 
from  one  lake  or  river  to  another. 


154  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

fore  decided  to  look  for  the  island  in  question  by 
taking  a S.S.W.  ^ W.  direction  towards  the  Cape 
Krestowoi  of  Leontjew’s  map.  The  E.N.E.  wind 
rose  gradually,  but  as  it  was  in  our  backs,  and  the 
snow  was  smooth,  we  had  soon  gone  over  44  wersts, 
notwithstanding  the  drifting  snow,  when  we  sud- 
denly perceived  that  we  were  no  longer  on  the  ice, 
but  on  land.  At  first  we  thought  we  had  reached 
the  island  we  were  seeking,  but  in  a few  minutes 
we  heard  an  exclamation  from  one  of  our  drivers, 
who  had  found  a fox-trap  bearing  his  own  mark, 
whereby  we  knew  that  we  were  on  the  mainland, 
not  far  from  the  River  Agasonowka.  He  conducted 
us,  notwithstanding  the  thick  drift,  to  a balagan  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  we  had  once  more  the 
comfort  of  a roof  and  walls.  Our  provisions  being 
now  exhausted,  and  the  season  far  advanced,  we 
determined  to  return  home  by  the  shortest  route. 
I would  gladly  have  taken  the  opportunity  of  laying 
down  this  part  of  the  coast,  but  the  state  of  the 
weather  made  it  impossible.  The  wind  was  from 
the  N.E.,  and  became  more  and  more  violent,  and 
the  atmosphere  was  completely  darkened  by  the 
driving  snow.  We  abandoned  ourselves  entirely  to 
the  guidance  of  our  drivers,  who  werp  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  district.  They  brought  us,  on 
the  25th  of  April,  to  a powarna  near  the  mouth  of  the 
greater  Tschukotschje,  where  the  shore  forms  a high 
cape. 

On  the  26th  we  crossed  the  hills  to  a river  called 
Jakutskaja  Wiska,  a distance  of  24  wersts,  and  after 
driving  six  wersts  farther  across  a tundra^  we  came 
to  the  Jakuts  lake,  where  one  of  our  drivers  had  a 
store  of  fish,  from  which  he  entertained  us.  The 
fish  were  preserved  in  a kind  of  cellar  hewn  out  of 
the  ice  of  the  lake  : the  opening  had  been  closed 
with  ice  and  snow,  over  which  water  had  been  pour- 
ed, so  that  the  surface  of  the  lake  showed  no  traces 
of  the  store  beneath,  and  it  was  perfectly  inaccessi- 


ARRIVAL  AT  POC'HODSK. 


155 


bie  to  bears.  ЛѴЫІе  we  were  busied  in  opening  and 
reclosing  the  ice-cellar,  a large  herd  of  reindeer 
ran  by  at  no  great  distance.  The  sight  of  them 
had  nearly  cost  us  dear,  for  our  dogs  all  set  off  in 
pursuit,  and  we  had  great  -difficulty  in  recalling 
them.  We  slept  at  a balagan  30  wersts  farther  on. 

On  the  27th  of  April  the  weather  changed,  the 
snow  ceased,  and  we  had  a cutting  S.W.  wind,  with 
a temperature  of  — 2°.  We  came  on  a beaten  track, 
which  conducted  us  across  a lake  to  a village  on  the 
lesser  Tschukotschje.  This  place,  which  consists 
of  fifteen  old  huts  and  a ruined  barrack,  is  deserted 
in  winter,  but  is  resorted  to  in  summer  for  fishing 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  Pochodsk,  fifty 
wersts  distant,  and  which  we  reached  late  in  the 
night.  Poor  as  this  settlement  is,  its  aspect  filled 
us  with  pleasurable  sensations  ; we  saw  a few  pla- 
ces among  the  huts  where  the  spring  had  melted  the 
snow,  and  where  browm  earth  was  visible  ; smoking 
chimneys,  and  the  faint  glimmer  of  lamps  through 
the  ice  window^s,  told  us  that  we  were  again  among 
human  beings.  The  barking  of  the  dogs  announ- 
ced our  arrival,  and  from  every  door  we  heard  the 
grateful  sound  of  the  Russian  “welcome.”  We 
were  soon  seated,  surrounded  by  smiling  faces,  near 
a stove  in  a warm  room,  where  we  could  throw  off 
our  frozen  furs,  and  really  rest  from  the  toils  and 
privations  of  the  icy  desert.  Our  kind  hosts  soon 
placed  before  us  the  best  entertainment  their  poverty 
could  furnish,  giving  us,  among  other  things,  some 
fresh-killed  ptarmigan  in  our  soup ; and  thus,  in  the 
enjoyment  of  comforts  to  which  we  had  been  long 
unaccustomed,  and  in  friendly  conversation,  the 
hours  passed  rapidly  away. 

We  continued  our  journey  the  next  day,  and 
arrived  at  Nishne  Kolymsk  on  the  28th  of  April, 
after  an  absence  of  36  days,  during  which  we  had 
travelled  1210  wersts  with  the  same  dogs. 


156  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Nishne  Kolymsk. — Spring. — Scarcity.— Fisheries  for  the  supply 
of  the  Expedition. — Building  a Shallop. — Plans  for  the  Sum- 
mer.— Warm  Weather. — Moschetoes. — Embark  in  the  new 
Boat. — Accident  to  M.  Matiuschkin. — Reindeer  Hunting  in 
the  Tundra. — Arrival  at  Tschukotschje. — Departure  of  M. 
Kosmin  to  survey  the  Coast  as  far  as  the  Indigirka. — Return 
up  the  Kolyma. — Tent  burned. — Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk. 
—Visit  to  the  Jakuti  of  Sredne  Kolymsk. — Their  Summer 
Life  and  Habitations. — Traditions. — Albuty.— Early  Snow. — 
Return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk.— Arrival  of  MM.  Matiuschkin, 
Kyber,  and  Kosmin. 

On  arriving  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  we  found  that 
spring  had  already  brought  its  accustomed  scarcity, 
with  the  consequent  train  of  suffering  and  disease; 
As  soon  as  the  ice  of  the  river  began  to  melt,  the 
whole  population  dispersed  to  their  summer  habita- 
tions on  the  banks  of  the  different  rivers  in  pursuit 
of  fish  and  game.  The  experience  of  the  past  year 
had  taught  us  that  we  could  not  rely  on  the  natives 
for  the  supplies  necessary  for  our  expedition,  as 
they  make  but  inadequate  provision  for  their  own 
wants,  and  that  for  this  we  must  depend  upon  our- 
selves. I therefore  hastened  to  send  some  people 
with  nets  and  baskets  to  the  most  favourable  fishing- 
places  before  the  sledging  season  was  quite  over, 
and  fixed  on  the  lesser  Tschukotschje  'as  the  head- 
quarters of  our  several  parties,  it  being  a very  pro- 
ductive river,  and  less  frequented  than  most  others. 
Tatarinow  was  charged  with  the  general  superin- 
tendence of  the  fisheries,  and  I felt  secure  that  we 
should  obtain  a sufficient  supply. 

My  next  care  was  how  we  could  best  employ  the 
short  summer.  I decided  that  one  division  should 
proceed  on  horseback  to  survey  the  coast  between 


CONTEMPLATED  SUMMER  EXCURSIONS.  157 


the  Kolyma  and  the  Indigirka,  and  that  another 
division  should  make  an  accurate  survey  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Kolyma  in  boats.  A small  dwelling, 
also,  and  a magazine  for  provisions,  were  to  be 
erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  Baranicha,  for  the 
use  of  our  coming  winter  expedition.  Lastly,  Dr. 
Kyber,  who  had  now  recovered  from  his  illness, 
undertook,  by  his  own  desire,  to  examine  the  coun- 
try on  the  banks  of  the  greater  and  the  lesser  Aniuj. 

It  may  seem  strange  that  we  should  have  propo- 
sed to  make  a coast  survey  on  horseback  rather 
than  with  reindeer  or  in  boats ; but  a full  consid- 
eration of  the  subject  convinced  me  that  reindeer 
would  not  be  equal,  in  summer,  to  such  long  days’ 
journeys  as  we  should  require  to  make,  and  that 
they  would  be  also  more  expensive  than  horses ; 
and  that  boats  would  not  answer,  on  account  of  the 
extensive  shallows  and  sandbanks,  which  prevent  a 
near  approach  to  the  shore ; and,  moreover,  that  any 
small  vessel  would  run  great  risk  of  destruction 
from  the  large  pieces  of  ice  which  are  always  drift- 
ing along  the  coast.  We  agreed  with  the  Jakuti  of 
Sredne  Kolymsk  for  a sufficient  number  of  horses, 
and  for  trustworthy  guides  acquainted  with  the 
country.  The  coast  survey  I intrusted  to  M.  Mati- 
uschkin,  and  undertook  that  of  the  Kolyma  myself. 
I farther  profited  by  a journey  which  our  travelling 
companion,  M.  Bereshnoi,  was  about  to  make  on 
horseback  to  the  eastern  Tundra  to  search  for  mam- 
moth bones,*  to  send  with  him  Sergeant  Reschet- 

* Throughout  Siberia,  but  more  especially  in  the  northern 
and  northeastern  parts,  mammoth  bones  and  teeth  (or,  as  they 
are  there  called,  horns)  are  found  in  clay  hills,  in  the  Tundras, 
and  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers.  The  best  season  for  search- 
ing for  these  antediluvian  remains  is  in  spring,  when  the  streams, 
swollen  by  the  melting  snows,  overflow  their  banks  and  under- 
mine the  hills ; and  it  is  at  this  season  that  the  inhabitants  re- 
sort to  those  localities  which  are  known  to  be  productive. 
Very  long  journeys  are  often  taken  for  this  object,  and  usual- 
ly with  good  success. 


О 


158  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

nikow,  with  a good  carpenter  and  two  assistants,  to 
build  a large  powarna  and  a storehouse  of  driftwood 
at  a convenient  spot  near  the  Baranicha  River. 

During  our  absence  on  our  second  journey  over 
the  ice,  M.  Kosmin  had  been  engaged  in  the  build- 
ing of  a large  boat  or  shallop,  which  he  had  brought 
to  a successful  conclusion  in  spite  of  the  deficien- 
cies of  all  kinds  under  which  he  laboured.  He  had 
fortunately  found  under  the  snow  a sufficient  quan- 
tity of  knee-timber  for  the  framework,  and  after  the 
scaffolding  was  erected,  and  the  artificers  understood 
their  instructions,  the  work  proceeded  so  rapidly 
that  in  May  a vessel  was  completed,  of  excellent 
construction  in  all  its  parts. 

On  the  25th  of  May  the  ice  of  the  river  broke  up, 
and  on  the  following  night  the  first  shower  of  rain 
fell.  The  banks  and  sunny  slopes  began  now  to  be 
covered  with  grass  ; the  willows  opened  their  buds 
and  put  forth  young  leaves,  and  the  short  summer 
advanced  rapidly ; the  temperature  increased  to  + 
55°,  and  even  to  + 68°,  and  the  progress  of  vegeta- 
tion was  sensible  to  the  eye  ; but  the  enjoyment  we 
felt  in  returning  spring  was  of  short  duration.  The 
4th  of  June  brought,  as  at  this  season  are  usual, 
immense  swarms  of  moschetoes,  whose  insufferable 
stings  obliged  us  to  take  refuge  in  the  house,  and  to 
keep  up  in  front  of  the  doors  and  windows  a con- 
stant smoke,  by  which  we  were  almost  suffocated, 
and  our  eyes  greatly  inflamed.  We  rejoiced,  there- 
fore, most  heartily,  when,  on  the  9th  of  June,  a strong 
north  wind  suddenly  lowered  the  temperature  from 
+ 59°  to  4“  38°,  and  drove  away  these  troublesome 
enemies.  At  length  we  could  enjoy  the  delight  of 
breathing  the  air  of  heaven  without  either  being  tor- 
mented by  insects  or  frozen ; we  roamed,  therefore, 
with  our  guns  over  the  country,  seldom  returning 
till  late  in  the  evening,  and  always  loaded  with  wild- 
fowl. The  first  bird  of  passage  had  been  seen  on 
the  29th  of  April ; but  now  large  flights  were  con- 


ACCIDENT  TO  M.  MATIÜSCHKIN.  159 


tinually  passing  to  the  north,  and  occasionally  alight- 
ing on  the  grassy  slopes,  where  great  numbers  were 
killed. 

We  were  not  able  to  launch  our  shallop,  which 
we  named  the  Kolyma^  until  the  11th  of  .Tune,  when 
the  inundation  subsided.  The  sails  were  made  from 
those  that  had  been  used  for  Captain  Billings’s  ves- 
sels, and  the  anchor  we  forged  ourselves  from  rem- 
nants of  iron  belonging  to  the  same  expedition. 
We  had  built,  besides,  a small  boat  for  crossing 
shallows.  This  last  was  after  the  pattern  of  the 
country  wetka^  but  larger,  and  could  carry  three 
men. 

All  our  preparations  being  completed,  our  whole 
party  embarked  together.  Dr.  Kyber  was  to  leave 
us  at  the  first  village,  and  MM.  Matiuschkin  and 
Kosmin  at  the  lesser  Tschukotschje  River,  where  the 
horses  were  to  meet  them,  and  where  they  were  to 
commence  their  survey.  We  had  four  oars,  and  the 
current  in  our  favour ; but  as  it  ran  only  three  quar- 
ters of  a knot  an  hour,  and  the  wind  was  blowing 
fresh  and  dead  against  us,  we  were  obliged  to  stop 
short  after  proceeding  five  wersts. 

Mortified  as  we  were  at  this  detention,  we  had 
soon  to  regret  a more  serious  misfortune,  which  our 
companions  looked  upon  as  an  evil  omen,  and  which 
obliged  us  to  alter  our  plans  materially  for  the  sum- 
mer. As  we  were  about  to  land,  one  of  our  dogs, 
in  jumping  from  the  boat  to  swim  on  shore,  became 
entangled  in  a loose  rope,  and  would  inevitably  have 
been  strangled  if  M.  Matiuschkin  had  not  sprung  to 
his  aid ; but,  unfortunately,  that  gentleman  (in  his 
eagerness  to  release  our  faithful  follower),  in  cut- 
ting the  rope,  cut  off  at  the  same  time  a large  part 
of  his  own  thumb.  The  wound  was  a bad  one,  and 
Dr.  Kyber  was  of  opinion  that  it  might  easily  be- 
come dangerous.  I therefore  sent  the  doctor  and 
his  patient  in  the  boat  back  to  Nishne  I^olyrnsk,  to 
wait  there  until  the  wound  should  be  healed,  which 


160  Wrangell’s  polar  EXPEorxioN. 

the  doctor  considered  would  require  a month,  and  it 
was  also  arranged  that  they  should  then  travel  to- 
gether up  the  Aniuj. 

As  soon  as  the  boat  returned,  M.  Kosmin  and  I 
continued  our  voyage,  and  arrived  on  the  28th  of 
June  at  the  lesser  Tschukotschje  River.  We  visited 
by  the  way  the  villages  of  Tschernoussow  and  Po- 
chodsk,  to  inquire  after  the  fisheries.  Our  parties 
had  been  successful,  and  we  saw  large  quantities  of 
fish  drying  on  scaffolds  about  every  house.  Great 
numbers  are  taken  at  this  season  in  descending  the 
stream.  The  fishery  is  usually  conducted  by  the 
whole  of  the  little  community  uniting  to  erect  a 
dam  across  the  river,  leaving  an  opening  in  the  mid- 
dle, in  which  the  baskets  are  placed ; the  produce 
being  divided  according  to  established  rules.  After 
the  dam  has  been  formed,  the  rest  of  the  work  is  so 
light  that  the  men  usually  leave  it  to  be  attended 
to  by  the  women,  while  they  themselves  follow  the 
chase  ; some  proceeding  in  karbasses*  to  the  best  lo- 
calities for  fowling,  and  bringing  home  large  quanti- 
ties of  ducks  and  geese,  and  others  on  horseback 
following  the  reindeer  along  the  valleys  and  streams. 
Two  hunters  usually  go  together,  each  dragging  af- 
ter him  a light  wetka,  and  being  followed  by  two 
or  more  trained  dogs.  Sometimes  they  find  the 
reindeer  standing  up  to  their  necks  in  water,  to 
avoid  the  moschetoes  and  to  keep  themselves  cool, 
and  sometimes  the  dogs  drive  them  into  the  river. 
Meanwhile  the  hunters  launch  their  light  canoes, 
which  they  can  paddle  faster  than  the  deer  can 
swim,  and  having  succeeded  in  hemming  them  in, 
they  despatch  them  with  a kind  of  light  spear  called 
poküliuga.  If,  as  often  occurs,  they  cannot  at  once 

The  karbasses  are  large,  heavy,  flat-bottomed  boats,  formed 
of  hollow  trunks  of  trees,  carrying  a lading  of  fifty  pood  weight. 
The  best  are  made  from  the  largest  and  soundest  trees  of  a pop- 
lar-like species  of  aspen,  which  grows  around  Werchne  KolymsL 


REINDEER  CHASE. 


161 


carry  their  spoil  home,  they  bury  it  in  the  under- 
stratum of  constantly-frozen  earth  until  they  can 
come  with  sledges  to  take  it  away ; in  which  case 
it  not  unfrequently  happens  that  the  wolves  are  be- 
forehand with  them,  and  the  hunters  find  nothing 
left  but  the  bones.  While  we  were  in  this  district, 
we  came  quite  unexpectedly  upon  a large  herd  of 
reindeer,  lying  quietly  in  the  water,  above  which 
their  huge  antlers  rose  like  the  dry  branches  of  a 
grove  of  trees.  Two  of  our  .Tukahirs  threw  them- 
selves instantly  into  the  light  boat  and  gave  chase  ; 
but  not  being  properly  armed,  they  only  succeeded 
in  killing  two  females.  We,  who  were  in  the  large 
boat,  shot  a fine  buck.  The  rest  of  the  herd  gained 
the  bank  in  safety,  and  soon  disappeared. 

We  were  disappointed  in  finding  that  the  horses 
■we  had  ordered  had  not  yet  arrived  at  the  lesser 
Tschukotschje.  It  was  some  comfort,  however,  to 
.see  that  our  fishery  at  this  place  was  proceeding 
most  prosperously.  The  drying-scaffolds  were  com- 
pletely covered  with  fish,  chiefly  herrings,  and  the 
species  called  tschir^  and  w^e  all  set  ourselves  to 
work  to  erect  more  scaffolds,  which  were  soon  like- 
wise filled. 

On  the  1st  of  July  a Jakut  arrived,  bringing  five 
horses,  and  the  very  unwelcome  intelligence  that  it 
was  impossible  to  procure  more.  Of  these  five, 
only  two  were  strong  enough  to  carry  the  tent,  pro- 
visions, and  instruments,  and  there  remained  only 
three  weak  horses  for  riding.  But  for  the  great  and 
well-grounded  confidence  which  I felt  in  M.  Kos- 
min’s  experience,  ability,  and  persevering  energy,  I 
could  not  have  ventured  on  despatching  no  more 
than  three  persons,  with  indifferent  horses,  on  such 
a journey,  across  a desert  region,  intersected  by 
numerous  broad  and  rapid  streams,  and  devoid  of 
all  resources.  Having  given  him  my  final  instruc- 
tions, he  set  out  on  the  2d  of  July,  accompanied  by 


162  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

the  Jaku-t  and  a young  Cossack.  They  took  with 
them  two  light  wetkas  for  crossing  the  rivers.* 

The  next  day,  some  men,  whom  I had  sent  down 
the  river  in  the  karbass  to  shoot  geese  and  swans, 
returned  with  information  that  Tschukotskaja  Bay, 
and  even  the  mouth  of  the  river  itself,  were  still  cov- 
ered with  solid  ice.  I was  therefore  obliged,  most 
reluctantly,  to  await  a change  in  the  wind,  which 
was  now  blowing  freshly  from  the  north  and  north- 
west, and  driving  the  sea-ice  into  the  river  instead 
of  clearing  it.  Day  after  day  we  examined  the  state 
of  the  ice,  and  still  found  it  impossible  for  a boat  to 
pass  ; so  that  at  length  I thought  it  best  to  give  up 
the  attempt  for  the  present,  and  turned  my  back  on 
this  desert  plain,  where  the  eye  is  uncheered  by  the 
sight  of  a tree,  a shrub,  or  even  a blade  of  green 
grass.  Though  it  was  July,  the  wind  from  the  north 
was  keen  and  very  cold ; snow  fell  frequently,  and 
remained  whole  days  on  the  ground  without  melting. 
While  returning  in  the  boat,  I occupied  myself  in 
surveying,  and  in  determining  the  position  of  some 
of  the  most  remarkable  points  on  the  Kolyma.  On 
the  15th  of  July  I was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Krutaja, 
in  the  parallel  of  the  Sucharnaja  Mountain,  the  lati- 
tude of  which  I wished  to  determine.  My  tent  had 
been  pitched  among  some  willow  bushes,  and  a small 
fire  had  been  lighted  on  the  windward  side,  in  order 
that  the  smoke  from  it  might  drive  away  the  mos- 
chetoes  which  had  reappeared  on  the  weather  be- 
coming a little  milder.  I had  only  two  people  with 
me,  having  left  one  sailor  behind  to  hunt,  while  the 
rest  had  returned  to  their  homes,  to  procure  the  ne- 
cessary provisions  for  their  families.  It  really  seem- 
ed as  if  my  present  attempt,  which  had  had  such  an 

* The  account  of  this  journey,  as  it  consists  almost  entirely 
of  topographical  details,  barren  of  interest  to  the  general  reader, 
and  is  unconnected  with  the  general  narrative,  has  been  omitted 
M.  Kosmin’s  survey  extended  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma  to 
that  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Indigirka. — Am.  Ed. 


TENT  ON  FIRE. 


163 


ill-omened  beginning,  was  fated  not  to  succeed  ; for 
after  all  the  vexatious  delays  already  met  with,  an 
accident  happened  which  had  nearly  deprived  me  of 
the  fruits  of  all  our  preceding  labours.  We  had  row- 
ed, as  usual,  into  the  middle  of  the  stream,  to  pro- 
cure pure  water  for  cooking,  that  near  the  banks  be- 
ing muddy,  and  had  not  thought  it  necessary  to  ex- 
tinguish the  fire  for  so  short  an  absence,  when  a 
sudden  gust  of  wind  drove  it  towards  the  tent,  and 
before  we  could  reach  the  shore  everything  was  in 
a blaze.  The  loss  was  a very  serious  one,  but  it 
would  have  been  far  more  so  if  I had  not  succeeded 
in  rescuing  a box  containing  all  my  papers,  journals, 
charts,  and  instruments,  before  the  flames  had  pene- 
trated the  thick  covering  of  furs  in  which  it  was  en- 
veloped. 

This  accident,  by  destroying  many  articles  indis- 
pensable for  our  voyage,  decided  my  return  to  Nish- 
ne  Kolymsk.  We  arrived  there  on  the  20th  of 
July,  and  found  MM.  Matiuschkin  and  Kyber  prepa- 
ring for  their  journey  up  the  Aniuj.  As  I had  taken 
cold,  and  suffered  much  from  rheumatism.  Dr.  Ky- 
ber advised  me  to  go  to  Sredne  Kolymsk,  where  the 
milder  and  less  variable  climate,  and  the  use  of  light- 
er and  fresher  food,  would  probably  contribute  ma- 
terially to  restore  my  health.  Accordingly,  I took 
the  boat  up  the  Kolyma  on  the  26th,  and  the  two 
travellers  to  the  Aniuj  left  Nishne  Kolymsk  the 
same  day. 

The  farther  I receded  from  the  low  lands,  which 
are  subject  to  the  blighting  influence  of  the  Polar 
Sea,  the  more  pleasing  became  the  aspect  of  the 
country,  which  loses  the  dreary  uniformity  of  the 
Arctic  region,  and  is  inhabited  by  a well-disposed 
and  industrious  population,  the  Jakuti  of  Sredne 
Kolymsk.  I quitted  my  boat  at  the  village  of  Niso- 
woi  Albut,  which  is  the  most  northern  Jakutian  set- 
tlement, and  is  distant  150  wersts  from  the  town  of 
Sredne  Kolymsk,  and  continued  my  journey  on 


164  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


horseback.  After  so  many  months  passed  among 
icy  deserts,  the  fields  here  covered  with  luxuriant 
grass,  the  vigorous  larch-trees,  poplars,  and  willows, 
the  numerous  herds,  and  frequent  settlements,  alto- 
gether appeared  like  quite  a paradise  to  me.  The 
soil,  the  vegetation,  the  milder  air,  the  whole  aspect 
of  nature,  breathed  life  and  cheerfulness. 

The  vegetation  is  especially  luxuriant  in  the  albu- 
ty,  or  dried-up  lakes,  which  are  numerous  in  this 
district,  and  form  one  of  the  peculiar  features  of 
Northern  Siberia.  These  flat  valleys  are  occasion- 
ally filled  with  water  by  the  overflowing  of  the  riv- 
ers in  spring,  when  they  are  converted  into  lakes  of 
various  sizes,  all  abounding  in  fish.  The  intense 
frosts  of  winter  cause  large  clefts  in  the  ground,  by 
which  the  water  drains  off,  sometimes  in  the  course 
of  a single  year,  sometimes  in  several.  The  rich  al- 
luvial soil  thus  exposed  soon  becomes  covered  with 
a luxuriant  growth  of  the  finest  grass,  and  the  Jaku- 
ti  never  fail  to  settle  near  these  fresh  pastures,  so 
that  most  of  the  settlements  in  this  district  are  call- 
ed albuty* 

The  aspect  of  these  summer  settlements,  with  the 
cattle  feeding  about  them,  and  the  herdsmen  not 
muffled  in  furs,  but  dressed  in  light  and  convenient 
clothing,  was  most  pleasing.  I was  particularly 
struck  by  the  summer  habitation  Qetowje)  of  a weal- 
thy Jakut  chief,  who  had  come  with  his  whole  tribe, 
and  with  his  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  from  the 
forests  where  they  had  spent  the  winter.  His  uross\ 
was  surrounded  by  similar  but  smaller  huts,  in  which 
his  nearest  kinsfolk  and  his  servants  were  lodged ; 

* A curious  phenomenon  occurs  in  the  lakes  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  village  of  Alaseja.  In  the  middle  of  winter  the  water  some- 
times suddenly  disappears,  without  any  side  channels  being  vis- 
ible. In  such  cases  a loud  noise  is  heard  at  the  time,  and  when 
the  bottom  of  the  lake  is  laid  bare,  large  fissures  are  visible,  oc- 
casioned by  the  severity  of  the  frost. 

t Described  in  chapter  ii.,  p.  38. 


AGED  JAKUT. 


165 


and  the  whole  was  surrounded  by  an  extensivd  fence, 
within  which  the  cattle  were  driven  at  night.  Eve- 
rything announced  a prosperous  condition,  associa- 
ted with  patriarchal  simplicity,  peace,  and  purity  of 
manners.  The  hospitable  and  friendly  reception 
which  I met  with,  the  mildness  of  the  air  in  these 
valleys,  which  are  sheltered  by  the  surrounding  hills 
and  forests,  the  abundance  of  excellent  milk  and 
other  fresh  food,  and,  finally,  the  complete  repose  of 
mind  which  I enjoyed,  while  away  from  all  anxious 
employment,  and  surrounded  by  the  beauties  of  na- 
ture, all  combined  to  induce  me  to  spend  the  short 
remains  of  summer  here,  in  laying  in  a store  of 
health  and  strength  against  the  toils  of  the  following 
winter.  I soon  felt  the  beneficial  effects  of  this  new 
mode  of  life,  and  I shall  ever  remember  with  grati- 
tude and  pleasure  the  time  which  I passed  among 
these  kind,  and,  as  they  appeared  to  me,  happy  peo- 
ple. 

1 made  several  excursions  on  foot  to  different  aU 
luty^  twenty  or  thirty  worsts  off.  In  one  of  them, 
called  SuPgi  Etar  (horse-pasture),  I met  with  a Ja- 
kut  eighty-two  years  of  age,  named  after  Lieutenant 
Laptew,  who  visited  the  Kolyma  in  1739.  He  had 
married  a Russian  woman,  and  could  not  only  speak 
Russian  fluently,  but  also  read  and  wrote  it  with 
ease.  In  spite  of  his  great  age,  he  was  so  healthy 
and  vigorous  that  he  used  to  ride  long  distances 
with  the  young  men,  drive  the  cattle  to  and  from 
their  pasture,  and  take  his  share  in  most  of  the 
country  occupations.  He  was  vefy  fond  of  tea  and 
of  punch,  which  are  very  expensive  luxuries  in  this 
place.  1 passed  many  agreeable  hours  with  this 
unusually  intelligent  Jakut.  He  complained  of  the 
ignorance  of  his  countrymen,  who,  he  said,  had  been 
formerly  more  civilized  ; and  that,  before  they  sep- 
arated from  the  other  Tartar  races  to  which  they 
are  allied,  they  had  possessed  written  characters, 
and,  consequently,  means  of  intellectual  cultivation 


166  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

which  they  have  since  lost.  He  asserted  that  his 
tribe  had  once  inhabited  far  distant  southern  regions, 
and  in  proof  of  it  he  quoted  several  popular  say- 
ings, in  which  gold  and  gems,  lions  and  tigers,  are 
mentioned,  of  which  they  are  now  entirely  ignorant. 
He  was  unable  to  speak  more  definitely  concerning 
their  earlier  condition  and  country,  as  such  accounts 
have  only  been  handed  down  by  traditions,  which 
have  been  in  great  measure  lost  since  Schamamsm 
has  yielded  to  Christianity.  He  said  that  litigious- 
ness, dishonesty,  and  deceit  had  increased,  and 
complained  particularly  that  the  immoderate  use 
of  spirituous  liquors  (of  which,  by-the-way,  he  was 
rather  fond  himself)  had  caused  such  a physical  de- 
terioration in  the  race,  that  no  one  now  attained  to 
the  age  of  a hundred  years  and  upward,  as  was  of- 
ten the  case  in  his  father’s  time.  He  talked  much 
of  the  severity  of  the  climate,  the  frequent  failure 
of  the  hay-harvest,  and  the  ravages  of  wolves.  I 
will  here  recount  all  that  I could  collect  from  his 
narrations  and  from  conversation  with  his  country- 
men concerning  their  earliest  history. 

The  Jakuti  who  live  on  the  banks  of  the  Kolyma 
are  not  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  country;  their 
predecessors  were  the  Omoki,  the  Schelagi,  the 
Tungusi,  and  the  Jukahiri.  The  Omoki,  who  were 
settled  fishermen,  and  the  Schelagi,  who  were  a no- 
made  people  having  reindeer,  have  so  wholly  disap- 
peared, partly  from  wars  with  intruders,  and  partly 
from  devastating  sickness,  that  their  names  are 
now  scarcely  remembered.  The  Jukahiri,  also, 
who  were  once  a numerous  nomade  race,  have 
greatly  diminished.  Most  of  them,  having  lost  their 
reindeer  by  disease,  now  live  poorly  as  fishermen 
along  the  banks  of  different  rivers ; while  a few, 
who  have  preserved  their  reindeer,  have  withdrawn 
with  them  into  the  tundras  near  the  sea.  The  ,Taku- 
ti  alone  have  not  only  kept  up  their  numbers,  but 
have  advanced  very  considerably  in  population,  and 


CONDITION  OP  ТЬж  -‘AKTtl. 


167 


in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  To  them  belongs  the 
merit  of  having  introduced  the  rearing  of  cattle  and 
horses,  and  other  branches  of  rural  industry,  into  a 
region  where  the  soil,  and  still  more  the  climate,  ap- 
peared to  forbid  all  such  attempts,  and  thus  secu- 
ring not  merely  a subsistence,  but  some  degree  of 
comfort.  They  may  be- said  to  have  rendered  these 
inhospitable  steppes  accessible  to  the  intrepid  de- 
scendants of  Jermak,  who  have  brought  with  them 
Christianit}^,  and  rescued  an  ignorant  and  supersti- 
tious people  from  the  delusions  of  Schamanism  and 
its  barbarous  customs.*  The  .Takuti  are  now  all 
baptized.  A priest  from  Sredne  Kolymsk  visits 
these  settlements  every  year.  An  ecclesiastic  na- 
med Slezzow,  who  resided  here  twenty  years  ago, 
manifested  great  courage  and  zeal  in  abolishing 
Schamanism.  Wherever  he  found  any  idols  or  hea- 
then altars,  he  caused  them  to  be  destroyed  by  fire 
or  thrown  into  the  water,  and  none  such  are  now  to 
be  met  with.  There  are  8,Ш1Лшж£іѴ£Г^ ns  I 
noticed  in  .a  fp^er 

to  have  a few  adher^entpj  and  же  gener^y  Ж 
ed.  and  even  bv  Russians,  in  regard  to  finding  a 
stray  beast  Qr-jüsnavmng  stolen  property.  W h at 
h~as  been  said  of  the  Jakutf^TIfie  JaluSSTdistrict 
will  apply  to  those  of  the  Kolyma.  Their  language, 
their  habitations,  their  clothing,  and  their  modes  of 
life,  are  the  same;  but  the  hunting  weapons  of 
those  of  the  Kolyma  consist  only  of  bows  and  ar- 
rows, and  a large  knife  called  раГта. 

As  their  horses  subsist  during  winter  on  the  grass 
which  they  find  under  the  snow,  the  Jakuti  migrate 
in  spring  with  their  herds,  in  order  to  leave  the  pas- 

* It  was  a frequent  practice  to  expose  new-born  female  euii- 
dren  in  baskets,  suspended  from  the  branches  of  trees.  Some- 
times it  happened  that,  before  the  infants  perished  from  cold  and 
hunger,  they  were  found  and  adopted  by  strangers ; and  old 
women  are  still  to  be  met  with  in  families  of  w^hich  they  became 
members  in  this  way. 


168  WRÄNGE 


•OLAR  EXPEDITION. 


ture  in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  winter-dwellings 
undisturbed.  The  number  of  horned  cattle  they 
can  keep  depends  on  the  quantity  of  winter-forage 
which  they  are  able  to  obtain,  and  nothing  can  ex- 
ceed the  industry  with  which  they  pursue  this  most 
important  object  during  the  short  summer.  Through- 
out the  whole  of  the  hay-making  season  they  live 
almost  entirely  on  kumyss,  of  which  they  drink 
great  quantities.  It  agrees  with  them  remarkably 
well,  and  they  grow  fat  and  strong  with  scarcely 
any  other  food.  One  of  the  greatest  disasters 
which  can  befall  them  is  a sudden  and  early  winter, 
cutting  short  the  hay-harvest.  Such  was  the  case 
the  present  year.  A keen  wind  from  the  northwest 
set  in  on  the  22d  of  August,  with  a heavy  fall  of 
snow,  which  covered  all  the  hay  remaining  in  the 
meadows  ; and  as  only  part  of  it  had  been  stacked, 
the  loss  was  very  great.  It  was  followed  by  such 
severe  cold  that  the  lakes  froze,  and  troops  of  wolves 
came  out  of  the  forest  and  carried  oif  above  eighty 
cows.  At  the  same  time,  the  Kolyma  was  so  unu- 
sually swollen  that  the  fishery  in  a great  measure 
failed.  A winter  of  scarcity,  therefore,  seemed  in- 
evitable ; but  nothing  appeared  to  distress  the  herds- 
men so  much  as  being  obliged,  on  account  of  their 
insufficient  store  of  hay,  to  diminish  still  farther  the 
number  of  their  cattle,  so  many  of  which  they  had 
already  lost  by  the  ravages  of  the  wolves. 

It  was  now  time  for  me  to  return  to  Nishne  Ko- 
lymsk.  I parted  from  these  kind  people,  among 
whom  1 had  recovered  my  health,  and  who  were 
cheerful  and  happy  when  I first  came  among  them, 
without  being  able  to  offer  them  anything  in  their 
distress  except  the  expression  of  my  sincere  sympa- 
thy. I left  them  on  the  31st  of  August,  and  passed 
the  night  40  wersts  off,  at  a Russian  village  on  the 
banks  of  the  Timkina.  The  next  day,  September 
1st,  I found  that  my  boat  was  already  frozen  in,  and 
we  had  some  difficulty  in  working  it  for  two  wersts 


ARRIVAL  AT  NISHNE  KOLYMSK. 


169 


through  the  ice  which  covered  the  small  river  : this 
brought  us  to  the  Kolyma,  which,  owing  to  its 
greater  breadth  and  stronger  current,  was  still  free 
from  ice.  We  rapidly  descended  its  stream,  and 
arrived  the  same  day  at  Nishne  Kolymsk. 

I found  there  Sergeant  Reschetnikow,  who  had  re- 
turned from  the  Baranicha  after  having  completed 
the  buildings.  He  and  his  people  had  been  frequent- 
ly disturbed  at  their  work  by  dangerous  visits  from 
white  bears.  I learned  from  him  that  large  num- 
bers of  swans  and  geese  resorted  to  that  neighbour- 
hood for  breeding  and  moulting,  and  that  part  of  the 
sea  abounded  with  a species  of  fish  resembling  loach- 
es {schmerlen),  called  golzy.  The  sailor  whom  I had 
left  at  the  mouth  of  the  lesser  Tschukotschje  return- 
ed soon  afterward,  and  informed  me  that  both  that 
river  and  the  eastern  mouth  of  the  Kolyma  had  been 
completely  frozen  over  as  early  as  the  21st  of  Au- 
gust. Violent  storms  and  frequent  falls  of  snow  had 
prevented  him  from  shooting  more  than  sixty  head 
of  swans  and  geese.  The  fishery,  however,  had 
been  very  successful. 

Winter  was  now  rapidly  approaching : on  the  6th 
of  September  there  was  much  floating  ice,  and  on 
the  8th  the  Kolyma  was  fast  frozen  over.  The  in- 
habitants had  not  yet  returned  from  their  summer 
occupations,  and  their  deserted  houses  were  com- 
pletely buried  in  snow,  which  had  fallen  almost 
without  intermission.  The  only  person  who  usually 
remains  in  the  village  during  the  summer  is  an  old 
Cossack,  who  has  charge  of  the  town  chancery. 
His  solitude  had  been  shared  the  present  season  by 
an  old 'woman,  who  was  too  infirm  to  accompany 
her  friends ; and  on  my  arrival  the  whole  popula- 
tion consisted  of  these  two  persons,  myself,  and 
three  men  belonging  to  our  expedition.  The  inhab- 
itants, however,  gradually  returned,  and  with  much 
la-bour  opened  paths  to  their  houses  and  cleared 
out  the  snow,  which  had  in  may  cases  filled  the 
P 


І70  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

rooms,  as  the  ice  windows  had  melted  during  the 
summer,  and  the  slight  shutters  had  not  been,  in  all 
cases,  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  storms  of 
wind  and  keep  out  the  drifting  snow.  The  tidings 
brought  by  the  new-comers  were  by  no  means  cheer- 
ing : some  complained  of  failure  in  hunting,  others 
in  fishing,  and  all  looked  forward  to  a winter  of  dis- 
tress and  scarcity.  Amid  this  general  anxiety  I was 
gladdened  by  the  arrival  of  the  post  from  Jakuzk ; 
long-looked-for  letters  carried  me  back  in  imagina- 
tion to  my  far-distant  friends  and  kindred,  and  af- 
forded me  inexpressible  delight,  checked,  however, 
by  the  recollection  that  they  had  been  six  months  in 
reaching  me  from  St.  Petersburgh. 

On  the  29th  of  September  MM.  Matiuschkin  and 
Kyber  returned  from  their  journey  up  the  greater 
and  the  lesser  Aniuj,  and  a week  later  we  rejoiced 
at  the  safe  return  of  M.  Kosmin  from  his  coast  ex- 
pedition to  the  Indigirka.  We  were  now  all  once 
more  assembled,  and,  after  spending  the  days  in  ar- 
ranging our  papers  and  journals,  and  entering  our 
observations  on  the  charts,  we  gathered  round  the 
social  hearth,  and  whiled  away  the  long  evenings  in 
recounting  our  several  adventures. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NISHNE  KOLYMSK.  171 


CHAPTER  IX. 

M.  matiuschkin’s  account  of  a journey  along  the 

LESSER  AND  THE  GREATER  ANIUJ  RIVERS. 

THE^  LESSER  ANIUJ. 

Departure  from  Nishne  Kolymsk. — Mammoth  Bones. — Arrival 
at  Plotbischtsche. — Aboriginal  Population  of  this  District. — > 
Present  Inhabitants. — Causes  of  the  Scantiness  of  the  Popula 
tion.—Jukahiri  — Migration  of  the  Reindeer  in  Spring  and 
Summer. — Departure  from  Plotbischtsche.— Argunowo. — Po- 
ginden. — Termination  of  the  Journey. — The  Rock  Obrom. 
— Return  to  Plotbischtsche. — General  Remarks  on  the  Lesser 
Aniuj. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  1821,  Dr.  Kyber  and  myself 
embarked  in  a small  boat,  and  with  a fresh  N.N.W. 
wind  entered  the  great  Aniuj,  which  empties  itself 
by  three  arms  into  the  Kolyma,  opposite  to  the  os- 
trog  of  Nishne  Kolymsk.  We  were  followed  by  the 
karbass  in  which  our  voyage  was  to  be  made : our 
few  packages  were  soon  transferred,  and  we  rowed 
quickly  up  the  stream,  which  is  here  about  a werst 
broad,  and  has  scarcely  any  current.  We  reached 
in  the  night  the  mouths  of  two  smaller  wiski  (streams 
having  their  origin  in  lakes),  which  are  much  resort- 
ed to  for  fishing  by  means  of  weirs  and  baskets,  and 
are  very  productive,  both  in  spring,  when  the  fish 
are  passing  up  to  the  lakes,  and  in  summer,  when 
they  are  returning  to  the  sea,  and  many  summer- 
dwellings  have  been  erected  here  in  consequence. 
We  were  detained  in  engaging  rowers  and  making 
such  arrangements  as  were  necessary  till  the  23d, 
when  we  resumed  our  voyage. 

About  ten  wersts  higher  up  we  passed  the  mouth 
of  the  River  Bajukowa,  which  rises  in  some  distant 
mountains  just  visible  to  the  south.  Soon  after  we 


172  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

came  to  where  the  greater  and  the  lesser,  or  dry 
Aniuj,  unite ; and,  entering  the  latter,  and  having 
followed  its  windings  for  twenty  wersts,  we  stopped 
for  the  night  at  a low,  sandy  island,  where  we  were 
secure  from  the  visits  of  the  numerous  bears  which 
we  saw  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  The  two  next 
days,  the  24th  and  25th,  we  were  favoured  by  the 
wind,  and  advanced  rapidly.  The  boat  being  en- 
tirely open,  we  were  completely  wet  through  by  the 
heavy  rain  which  had  fallen  incessantly  during  the 
last  three  days,  and  were  delighted  to  meet,  at  a 
place  called  Kildan,  with  a balagan,  which  had  been 
erected  for  their  use  by  the  merchants  who  travel  to 
Ostrownoje.  We  remained  there  the  next  day  to 
make  several  little  alterations  and  improvements  in 
our  boat,  one  of  which  was  to  put  up  a slender  mast, 
to  which  a towline  could  be  fastened,  as  the  rapid 
current  higher  up  would  probably  render  such  a 
mode  of  proceeding  necessary.  I employed  myself 
meanwhile  in  arrangements  respecting  my  journal, 
map,  &c.  To  lay  down  precisely  all  the  different 
\vindings  and  distances  would  be  considered  a useless 
application  of  time  and  labour,  and  I therefore  con- 
tented myself  with  taking  observations  of  latitude 
and  angles  of  azimuth  for  determining  the  principal 
points. 

The  banks  of  the  river  thus  far  resembled  those 
of  the  lower  Kolyma  in  their  dreary  uniformity,  but 
we  now  began  to  meet  with  better  pastures.  The 
right  bank  is  much  higher  than  the  left.  It  consists 
of  steep  sandhills  30  or  more  fathoms  high,  held 
together  only  by  frosts  which  the  summer  is  too 
short  to  dissolve.  Most  of  the  hills  were  frozen  as 
hard  as  a rock : nothing  thaws  but  a thin  outside 
layer,  though,  from  being  gradually  undermined  by 
the  water,  large  masses  of  frozen  sand  frequently 
break  off  and  fall  into  the  stream.  When  this  hap- 
pens, mammoth  bones  in  a more  or  less  perfect  state 
of  preservation  are  generally  found : we  saw  a few 


FOSSILIZED  WOOD.  173 

bones,  and  a scull,  which  looked  lo  me  like  that  of 
a rhinoceros.* 

* Without  entering  in  this  place  into  any  speculations  con- 
cerning the  manner  in  which  these  probably  antediluvian  re- 
mains came  into  their  present  situations,  I would  call  attention 
to  the  remarkable  fact  that  the  teeth,  tusks,  and  bones,  which 
are  called  by  the  general  name  of  mammoth  bones,  but  which 
probably  belong  to  several  different  species  of  animals,  are  not 
distributed  equally  over  Siberia,  but  form  immense  local  accu- 
mulations, which  become  both  richer  and  are  more  extensive 
the  farther  one  advances  to  the  north.  They  are  found  in  the 
greatest  abundance  in  New  Siberia  and  the  Lachow  Islands,*  as 
mentioned  by  Reschetnikow  and  Sannikow.f  Many  hundred 


* Prolodiakanow,  the  companion  of  Lachow,  states  that  the  soil  of  the 
first  of  these  islands,  which  consists  only  of  sand  and  ice,  contains  such 
a quantity  of  mammoth  bones  that  they  seem  to  form  the  principal  ma- 
terial of  the  island  ; and  that  among  these  bones  there  are  found  the  scull 
and  horns  of  an  animal  resembling  the  buffalo.— Ed. 

t Sannikow,  who  visited  the  Island  of  Kotelnoi,  near  New- Siberia,  in 
1811,  relates  that  he  found  on  the  hills  in  the  interior  of  that  island  vast 
quantities  of  the  sculls  and  other  bones  of  horses,  buffaloes,  oxen,  and 
sheep  ; and  he  concludes  that  the  island  must  have  once  enjoyed  a cli- 
mate so  mild  that  these  animals  lived  there,  in  company,  perhaps,  with 
the  mammoth,  whose  bones,  also,  everywhere  abound.  In  farther  sup- 
port of  this  opinion,  he  adduces  the  fact  that  large  trees,  in  a partially 
fossilized  slate,  are  frequently  found  here  as  well  as  in  New- Siberia.  A 
particular  account  of  these  remarkable  vegetable  remains  in  the  latter  isl- 
and is  given  by  Hedenström  : “ On  the  southern  coast  of  New- Siberia,’’ 
he  says,  “ are  found  the  remarkable  Wood  Hills.  I'hey  are  30  fathoms 
high,  and  consist  of  horizontal  strata  of  sandstone,  alternating  with  strata 
of  bituminous  beams  or  trunks  of  trees.  On  ascending  these  hills,  fos- 
silized charcoal  is  everywhere  met  with,  covered  apparently  with  ashes  ; 
but,  on  closer  examination,  this  ash  is  also  found  to  be  a petrifaction,  and 
so  hard  that  it  can  scarcely  be  scraped  off  with  a knife.  On  the  summit 
another  curiosity  is  found,  namely,  a long  row  of  beams  resembling  the 
former,  but  fixed  perpendicularly  in  the  sandstone.  The  ends,  which 
project  from  seven  to  ten  inches,  are  for  the  most  part  broken.  The  whole 
has  the  appearance  of  a ruinous  dike.”  Lieutenant  Anjou  likewise  ex- 
amined these  Wood  Hills:  he  says,  “They  form  a steep  declivity  20 
fathoms  high,  extending  about  five  wersts  along  the  coast.  In  this  bank, 
which  is  exposed  to  the  sea,  beams  or  trunks  of  trees  are  found,  general- 
ly in  a horizontal  position,  but  with  great  irregularity,  fifty  or  more  of 
them  together,  the  largest  being  about  ten  inches  in  diameter.  The  wood 
is  not  very  hard,  is  friable,  has  a black  colour,  and  a slight  gloss.  When 
laid  on  the  fire  it  does  not  burn  with  a flame,  but  glimmers,  and  emits  a 
resinous  odour.”  These  facts  certainly  show  that  at  some  distant  period 
a great  change  must  have  taken  place ; but  whether  a change  of  climate, 
or,  as  is  more  probable,  some  great  revolution  of  nature,  transferring 
these  animal  and  vegetable  wrecks  from  a more  southern  region,  must 
be  matter  of  conjecture. — Am,  Ed.  , 


174  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

As  we  ascended  the  stream  the  current  became 
much  more  rapid  ; the  river  makes  a number  of  short 
bends,  and  forms  many  small  islands.  Its  bed  is 
strewed  with  rough,  sharp-pointed  stones,  against 
one  of  which  our  boat  was  driven,  and  sprung  aleak ; 
but  we  drew  it  on  shore,  and  repaired  the  damage  in 
the  course  of  two  hours.  The  banks  became  high- 
er as  we  receded  from  Kildan;  the  fine  reddish 
sand  was  replaced  by  gravel  and  stone,  and  at  Mo- 
lotkowo  we  saw  slate  rocks  intersected  by  veins  of 
quartz. 

The  strength  of  the  current  prevented  us  from 
reaching  Plotbischtsche  until  the  third  day.  It  is 
here  that  the  reindeer  usually  cross  the  river  in  their 
autumn  migration,  and  we  found  crowds  of  hunters 
impatiently  waiting  their  passage.  It  was  an  anx- 
ious time,  for  many  of  the  settlements  were  already 
threatened  with  a deficiency  of  food.  VVe  were  hos- 
pitably received  by  a Jukahir  chief  named  Korkin, 
who  gave  us  the  best  he  had,  namely,  dried  reindeer 
venison  and  train  oil,  for  which  he  refused  any  com- 
pensation. Under  the  existing  circumstances  of 
scarcity  and  doubt,  this  liberality,  which  was  ex- 
tended to  many  of  the  hunters  as  well  as  to  our- 
selves, might  appear  to  savour  of  improvidence  ; 
but  such  is  true  hospitality,  which  prevails  through- 
out the  Russian  empire,  from  St.  Petersburgh  to 
Kamtschatka,  from  the  Caucasus  to  the  Polar  Sea ; 
and  among  the  nomades  of  Siberia  especially,  the 
best  is  always  for  the  guest.* 

Dr.  Kyber  wished  to  remain  here  a short  time, 
partly  for  medical  inquiries  and  partly  for  research- 
es in  natural  history.  I endeavoured,  meanwhile,  to 

pood  weight  are  collected  there  every  year,  whereas  on  the  Con- 
tinent they  are  much  more  rare,  and  are  hardly  ever  met  with 
in  the  southern  part  of  Siberia. 

* This  is  substantially  true.  The  Russians  are  remarkable 
for  their  hospitality.  Cheerfulness,  kindness,  and  good  nature 
are  striking  traits  in  their  character. — Am.  Ed. 


MIGRATION  OF  THE  ОМОКІ. 


175 


learn  as  much  as  I could  respecting  the  past  and 
present  condition  of  the  inhabitants.  Before  the 
conquest  of  Siberia  by  the  Russians,  the  population 
was  everywhere  greater  than  at  present.  Some  nu- 
merous tribes  (as  has  been  before  observed)  have 
left  only  their  names  behind  ; and  yet  there  are  still, 
on  a comparatively  small  surface,  eight  or  ten  dis- 
tinct races,  some  consisting  of  only  a few  families, 
but  all  distinguishable  from  each  other  by  language, 
customs,  and  features  : they  appear  to  be  fragments 
of  more  numerous  tribes,  some  of  them  having 
come,  perhaps,  from  a great  distance.  The  more 
independent  nomade  races  retreated  before  their  in- 
vaders farther  and  farther  to  the  east.  Our  host 
maintained  that  he  himself  was  descended  from  the 
Omoki,*  and  that  their  language  was  still  preserved 
in  his  family. 

This  nation  appears  to  have  possessed  a certain 
degree  of  civilization,  and,  among  other  things,  to 
have  been  acquainted  with  the  use  of  iron  before  the 
arrival  of  the  Russians.  As  the  Russian  conquests 
advanced,  and  as  the  smallpox  and  other  contagious 
diseases  which  accompanied  or  preceded  their 
course  committed  fearful  ravages,  the  Omoki  deter- 
mined to  remove,  and  left  the  banks  of  the  Kolyma 
in  two  large  divisions,  with  their  reindeer.  . Accord- 
ing to  the  account  of  my  host,  they  went  northward, 
but  he  could  not  tell  where : probably  they  turned 
to  the  west  along  the  coast  of  the  Polar  Sea,  for 
there  are  now  near  the  mouth  of  the  Indigirka  tra- 
ces of  numerous  jurti^  though  the  oldest  inhabitants 
have  no  knowledge  of  there  ever  having  been  any 
settlement  in  that  part  of  the  country.  The  place 
is  still  called  Omokskoje  Jurtowischtsche.f 

The  deserted  banks  of  the  Kolyma  were  gradual- 

^ See  chapter  iii.,  p.  64. 

t Where  are  the  remnants  of  this  once  numerous  nation  now 
to  be  found?  Can  it  be  in  Europe  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Pet- 
echora,  as  some  vague  traditions  would  seem  to  suggest  ? 


176  whangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ly  occupied  by  different  tribes,  of  which  the  most 
important  were  the  Jukahiri,  the  Tungusi  from  the 
steppes  on  the  Amur,  and  the  Tschuwanzi,  who 
were  pressed  hither  from  the  banks  of  the  Anadyr 
by  the  Tschuktschi.  Such  was  the  state  of  things 
in  1750,  when  Pawluzkij,  of  Jakuzk,  support- 

ed by  the  then  numerous  Tschuwanzi  and  Jukahiri, 
undertook  a campaign  against  the  Tschuktschi.  In 
this  warfare  most  of  the  Tschuwanzi  perished,  and 
also  a great  number  of  the  Jukahiri,  while  the  re- 
mainder, as  well  as  the  Russians,  were  dreadful- 
ly scourged  by  malignant  fevers,  smallpox  in  its 
most  fatal  form,  and  other  contagious  disorders, 
some  of  which  are  not  even  yet  entirely  extirpated. 
There  are  now  on  the  lesser  Aniuj  only  a few  fam- 
ilies of  the  Jukahiri,  who,  having  lost  their  reindeer, 
have  been  obliged  to  relinquish  their  nomade  life. 
They  have  been  baptized,  have  gradually  laid  aside 
their  national  peculiarities,  and  all  speak  the  Rus- 
sian language.  Their  habitations  and  dress  resem- 
ble, and  were  probably  the  originals  of,  those  al- 
ready described  at  Nishne  Kolymsk.  They  have 
generally  black  eyes,  dark  hair,  a rather  long  and 
remarkably  pale  face,  and  tolerably  regular  features. 

They  still  possess  the  cheerful  disposition,  un- 
bounded hospitality,  and  other  similar  good  qualities 
which  usually  characterize  a nomade  people,  and 
which  are  often  lost  by  civilization ; but  in  their  in- 
tercourse with  the  Russians,  whom  they  still  regard 
as  oppressors,  they  manifest  a sort  of  distrustful 
dissimulation,  and  will  go  great  lengths  to  overreach 
them  in  trade.  They  are  passionately  fond  of  mu- 
sic, and  almost  all  of  them  play  some  airs  on  the 
violin  or  the  balalajka.  The  women  have  rather 
agreeable  voices.  Their  singing  is  quite  peculiar: 
irregular  and  wild,  but,  after  the  ear  has  become  ac- 
customed to  it,  not  unpleasing.  They  generally  im- 
provise both  the  words  and  the  air,  though  the  words 
have  nothing  original,  appearing  to  be  borrowed  or 
imitated  from  the  Russians. 


MIGRATIONS  OF  THE  REINDEER.  177 

The  fisheries  along  the  banks  of  the  Aniuj  are  not 
very  important,  as  the  larger  kinds  of  fish  are  not 
met  with  above  Plotbischtsche : the  inhabitants, 
therefore,  have  to  subsist  almost  entirely  on  the 
produce  of  the  chase.  As  with  the  Laplanders,  their 
food,  clothing,  and  all  their  principal  wants  are  sup- 
plied by  the  reindeer. 

To  them  the  two  most  interesting  epochs  of  the 
year  are  the  spring  and  autumn  migrations  of  these 
animals.  About  the  end  of  May  they  leave  the  for- 
ests, where  they  have  found  some  degree  of  shelter 
from  the  winter  cold,  in  large  herds,  and  seek  the 
northern  plains  nearer  the  sea,  partly  for  the  sake  of 
the  better  pasture  afforded  by  the  moss  tundras,  and 
partly  to  fly  from  the  moschetoes  and  other  insects, 
whicb,  literally  speaking,  torment  them  to  death. 

The  hunting,  however,  at  this  season,  is  not  nearly 
as  important  as  in  the  autumn ; it  often  happens 
that  the  rivers  are  still  frozen  over,  affording  no  op- 
portunity of  intercepting  the  deer,  and  thus  the  hunt- 
ers can  only  lie  in  wait  for  them  among  the  ravines, 
to  shoot  them  with  guns  or  arrows.  Success  with 
the  latter  weapon  is  rather  uncertain,  while  the  high 
price  of  powder  and  ball  is  an  objection  to  the  use 
of  guns,  especially  as  the  animals  at  this  season 
are  very  thin,  and  their  flesh  is  so  injured  by  the  in- 
sects that  nothing  but  extreme  hunger  can  render 
it  palatable  : those  killed  in  spring  are  therefore 
commonly  used  only  for  the  dogs.  The  true  har- 
vest, which  we  arrived  just  in  time  to  see,  is  in  Au- 
gust or  September,  when  the  reindeer  are  returning 
from  the  plains  to  the  forests.  They  are  then  heal- 
thy and  well  fed,  their  flesh  is  excellent,  and,  as 
they  have  just  acquired  their  winter  coats,  their  fur 
is  thick  and  warm.  The  difference  in  the  quality  of 
the  skins  at  the  two  seasons  is  so  great,  that  while 
an  autumn  skin  is  valued  at  five  or  six  roubles,  a 
spring  one  will  fetch  only  one,  or  one  and  a half 
rouble 


178  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

In  good  years  the  migrating  body  of  reindeer  con- 
sists of  many  thousands  ; and  though  they  are  divi- 
ded into  herds  of  two  or  three  hundred  each,  yet 
these  keep  so  near  each  other  as  to  form  but  one 
immense  column,  which  is  sometimes  from  60  to 
iOO  worsts  in  breadth.  They  always  follow  the 
same  route,  and  in  crossing  the  river  near  Plotbisch- 
tsche,  they  choose  a place  where  a dry  valley  leads 
down  to  the  stream  on  one  side,  and  a flat,  sandy 
shore  facilitates  their  landing  on  the  other  side.  As 
each  separate  herd  approaches  the  river,  the  animals 
composing  it  draw  more  closely  together,  and  the 
largest  and  strongest  takes  the  lead.  He  advances, 
closely  followed  by  a few  of  the  others,  with  head 
erect,  and  apparently  intent  on  examining  the  local- 
ity. When  he  has  satisfied  himself,  he  enters  the 
stream,  the  rest  of  the  herd  crowd  after  him,  and  in 
a few  minutes  the  surface  is  covered  with  them. 

It  is  at  this  moment  that  the  hunters,  who  have 
been  concealed  to  leeward,  rush  in  their  light  canoes 
from  their  hiding-places,  surround  the  animals,  and 
obstruct  their  passage,  while  two  or  three  chosen 
men,  armed  with  short  spears,  dash  in  among  them, 
and  despatch  large  numbers  in  an  incredibly  short 
lime  ; or,  at  least,  so  wound  them  that,  if  they  reach 
the  bank,  it  is  only  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  wom- 
en and  children. 

The  office  of  the  spearman,  however,  is  a very 
dangerous  one.  It  is  no  easy  matter  to  keep  his 
light  boat  afloat  in  the  dense  crowd  of  swimming 
animals,  which,  moreover,  make  considerable  resist- 
ance, the  males  with  their  horns,  teeth,  and  hind 
legs,  while  the  females  endeavour  to  overset  it  by 
getting  their  fore  feet  over  the  gunwale  ; and  if  they 
succeed  in  this,  the  hunter  is  almost  certainly  lost, 
for  it  is  scarcely  possible  that  he  should  extricate 
himself  from  the  throng ; but  the  skill  of  these  peo- 
ple is  so  great  that  accidents  very  rarely  occur.  A 
good  hunter  will  kill  100  or  more  in  less  than  half 


MANNER  OF  KILLING  THE  REINDEER.  179 

an  hour.  It  often  happens,  when  the  herd  is  large 
and  gets  in  disorder,  that  their  antlers  become  en- 
tangled with  each  other,  and  then,  being  unable  to 
defend  themselves,  they  are  still  more  easily  de- 
spatched. Meanwhile  the  rest  of  the  boats  pick  up 
the  slain,  and  fasten  them  together  with  thongs, 
every  one  being  allowed  to  retain  what  he  secures 
in  this  manner.  It  might  seem  that  in  this  way 
nothing  would  be  left  to  requite  the  spearmen  for 
their  skill,  and  the  danger  they  have  encountered  ; 
but,  while  everything  in  the  river  is  the  property  of 
whoever  first  lays  hold  of  it,  the  wounded  animals 
which  reach  the  bank  before  they  fall  belong  to  the 
spearman  who  wounded  them.  The  skill  and  ex- 
perience of  these  men  is  such,  that  in  the  thickest 
of  the  conflict,  when  every  energy  is  taxed  to  the 
utmost,  and  their  life  is  every  moment  at  stake,  they 
have  sufficient  presence  of  mind  to  measure  the 
force  of  their  blows  so  as  to  kill  the  smaÜest  ani- 
mals outright,  but  only  to  wound  the  larger  and  finer 
ones,  so  that  they  may  be  just  able  to  reach  the 
bank.  Such  management,  it  may  readily  be  con- 
ceived, is  not  sanctioned  by  the  general  voice,  but  it 
seems,  nevertheless,  to  be  almost  always  practised. 

The  whole  scene  is  exciting,  and  curious  in  the 
highest  degree,  and  quite  indescribable.  The  throng 
of  thousands  of  swimming  reindeer,  the  loud  clash- 
ing of  their  antlers,  the  swnft  canoes  dashing  in 
among  them,  the  terror  of  the  frightened  animals, 
the  perilous  situation  of  the  huntsmen,  the  shouts 
of  warning  or  of  applause  from  their  friends,  the 
blood-stained  water — these  and  other  accompani- 
ments form,  altogether,  a spectacle  which  no  one  can 
picture  to  himself  without  having  seen  it. 

After  the  chase  is  over  and  the  spoils  are  distrib- 
uted, the  deer  which  have  been  killed  are  sunk  in 
the  river,  the  ice-cold  water  of  which  preserves 
them  for  several  days,  till  there  is  time  to  prepare 
them  for  winter  use.  For  this  purpose  the  flesh  is 


180  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

either  dried  in  the  air  or  smoked,  or,  if  early  frosts 
set  in,  frozen.  The  Russians  sometimes  salt  the 
best  pieces.  The  tongues  are  considered  the  great- 
est delicacy,  and  are  reserved  for  special  occasions.* 

We  remained  two  weeks  at  Plotbischtsche,  leav- 
ing it  on  the  13th  of  August,  when  the  reindeer  hunt 
was  quite  over,  and  arrived  the  same  night  at  Ar- 
gunowo,  where  we  found  a few  families  still  await- 
ing the  passage  of  these  animals. 

About  twenty  wersts  above  Argunowo,  the  Aniuj 
is  joined  from  the  north  by  the  Poginden,  a stream 
of  nearly  equal  breadth.  The  reindeer  pass  the  river 
as  high  up  as  this  place,  but  not  much  beyond,  as  its 
course  is  then  broken  by  waterfalls.  There  are  no 
settlements  on  the  Poginden,  but  in  winter,  when 
frozen,  it  affords  a smooth  and  convenient  road  to 
the  Jukahiri  in  their  journey  to  the  mountains  and 
to  the  banks  of  the  Beresowaja  and  Baranicha,  where 
wild  sheep  abound. 

At  Argunowo  the  river-scenery  became  more 
pleasing : the  dark  rocks  were  succeeded  by  gently 
swelling  and  varied  slopes,  and  the  windings  of  the 
stream  were  checkered  with  small  islands,  studded 
with  groups  of  poplar-trees,  w^hile  a few  inconsider- 
able herds  of  reindeer,  which  had  lingered  behind  the 
main  body,  added  animation  to  the  scene.  The 
rapidity  of  the  current  allowed  us  to  advance  only 
very  slowly. 

We  passed  the  night  of  the  16th  in  a deep  ravine 
between  two  rocky  hills,  one  of  which  is  named  from 
an  extensive  enclosure  into  which  the  migrating 
reindeer  are  enticed  by  various  devices.  As  the 
evening  was  clear,  I ascended  one  of  these  hills, 
which  I thought  would  command  an  extensive  pros- 
pect, and  afford  me  an  opportunity  of  obtaining 
some  angles ; but  I found  the  view  shut  in  by  dark 

* Smoked  reindeer  tongues  form  a considerable  article  of 
commerce  in  Russia.  They  are  much  fatter  and  far  more  del- 
icate than  neat  tongues. — Am.  Ed. 


ASCENT  OF  THE  ОБКОМ  ROCK.  181 

rocks  in  almost  every  direction,  and  had  to  return 
without  effecting  my  purpose.  Next  day  we  came 
in  sight  of  the  Obrom  Rock,  which  was  to  form  the 
termination  of  our  journey : its  summit  was  veiled 
in  clouds.  We  passed  the  fort  of  Ostrownoje,  and 
arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  17th  at  the  summer  vil- 
lage of  Obromsk,  where  we  found  only  women  and 
children,  the  men  not  having  yet  returned  from  the 
reindeer  hunt. 

Dr.  Kyber  лvished  to  remain  here  a few  days,  du- 
ring which  I wandered  about  the  country  with  my 
dogs  and  gun. 

A Jukahir  accompanied  me  as  a guide  up  the 
Obrom  Rock : the  path  we  took  was  rugged  and 
dangerous,  but  the  view  from  the  snow-clad  summit 
amply  repaid  me.  To  the  north  were  undulating 
snowy  mountains,  which  lost  themselves  in  the  blue 
ice  and  the  haze  of  the  frozen  sea,  while  the  dark- 
red  beams  of  the  setting  sun,  heralds  of  an  approach- 
ing storm,  gilded  their  summits,  and,  reflected  by  the 
particles  of  ice  which  filled  the  air,  formed  innumer- 
able rainbows  : here  and  there  dark  rocks  rose  from 
the  mist  like  islands  in  the  ocean.  There  are  fea- 
tures peculiar  to  the  icy  regions  of  the  Polar  Circle 
which  cannot  be  conveyed  by  description,  but  which 
challenge  our  admiration  no  less  than  the  smiling 
beauty  of  more  favoured  climes.  While  I was  con- 
templating the  picture  before  me,  the  deathlike  still- 
ness which  prevailed  was  suddenly  broken  by  violent 
gusts  of  wind  howling  and  sweeping  through  the 
ravines,  and  whirling  up  high  columns  of  snow  and 
sand : my  guide  urged  our  speedy  return  by  an  ea- 
sier path  than  we  had  followed  in  the  morning,  and 
on  which  the  side  of  the  mountain  would  afford  us 
some  protection  from  the  storm. 

The  Obrom  is  wooded  half  way  up : fine  larch- 
trees  grow  near  the  foot;  these  are  succeeded  by 
shrubs  of  the  same  species ; and  higher  up  the 
ground  is  covered  by  the  creeping  cedar,  success- 
Q 


1S2  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ively  followed  by  coarse  grass  and  moss.  The  rock 
itself  is  of  granite,  naked,  and  scathed  by  the  weath- 
er, though  with  occasional  patches  of  vegetable 
earth. 

The  season  of  storms  had  now  set  in  ; the  few 
deciduous  trees  were  stripped  of  their  leaves  ; the 
north  sides  of  the  hills  were  covered  with  snow  ; 
and  broad  margins  of  ice  began  to  form  along  the 
river. 

On  the  21st  of  August  we  commenced  our  return, 
and,  aided  by  a favourable  wind,  descended  the 
stream  at  five  knots  an  hour,  reaching  Plotbisch- 
tsche  the  evening  of  the  second  day.  Here  we 
were  greeted  from  both  sides  of  the  river  with  the 
cheerful  songs  of  the  successful  hunters,  and  saw 
the  banks  everywhere  lined  with  the  numerous 
reindeer  which  had  been  killed  ; they  were  placed 
under  water,  and  covered  with  branches  : we  shout- 
ed our  hearty  congratulations,  and  passed  on  without 
stopping. 

From  Plotbischtsche  to  Obrom  the  navigation  is 
rendered  difficult  and  hazardous  by  numerous  isl- 
ands, rocks,  and  sandbanks,  and  higher  up  the  riv- 
er is  altogether  unnavigable.  The  Aniuj,  being  a 
mountain-stream,  is  subject  to  sudden  and  violent 
floods.  It  every  year  carries  away  islands'  and 
forms  new  ones,  and  sometimes  alters  its  course 
for  several  wersts  ; while  the  shallows  and  rapids 
shift  their  places  so  frequently,  that  even  the  people 
living  on  its  banks  do  not  profess  to  know  them. 


BLACK  BEARS 


183 


THE  GREATER  ANIÜJ 

Journey  continued  on  Horseback. — The  Mountain-Chain  of  the 
Greater  Aniuj. — I’he  Kameschkovva. — Fur-Hunting. — Traps. 
— Tigischka— Arrival  at  Sladnoje  and  Lebasnoje. — The  Em- 
peror’s Name-day. — Failure  of  the  Reindeer  Hunt. — Famine. 
— Return  by  Water. — Inhabitants  of  the  Banks  of  the  Greater 
Aniuj.— Tungusi,  Lamuti,  Tschuwanzi,  and  Jakuti. — Their 
Modes  of  Life,  and  Numbers. — Schamanism  and  Schamans. 
— Dolgoje. — Arrival  at  Bol’schaja  Brussanka.— Freezing  of  the 
River. — Continuation  of  the  Journey  in  Sledges  drawn  by 
Dogs.— Baskowo. — Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk.— Remarks  on 
the  Different  Tribes  whom  we  visited  during  this  Journey. 

Our  journey  from  Plotbischtsche  was  to  be  con- 
tinued on  horseback,  but  as  the  six  horses  we  re- 
quired were  not  ready,  we  could  not  take  our  de- 
parture before  the  25th  of  August.  The  continuance 
of  violent  winds  and  heavy  snowstorms,  added  to 
the  great  morasses  {badarany)  which  we  had  to  pass, 
rendered  the  land-travelling  far  from  agreeable. 
Thirty  wersts  along  a narrow  footpath  brought  us 
to  the  naked  summit  of  the  elevated  ridge  which 
divides  the  two  rivers  Aniuj  from  each  other.  We 
were  here  greeted  by  an  inhabitant  of  the  mountain 
in  the  shape  of  a huge  black  bear,  which  sprang 
suddenly  upon  us  from  the  wood  : our  horses  were 
terrified,  but  the  bear  was  no  less  so,  and  disappear- 
ed in  the  thicket  before  we  had  time  to  level  our 
guns.  Such  encounters  are  very  frequent  in  this 
part  of  the  country,  but  the  formidable  brutes  are 
not  always  so  harmless.  Two  of  these  animals  at- 
tacked a Lamuti  an  hut  at  night,  when  the  family 
were  asleep,  and  destroyed  them  all  except  one 
man,  who  succeeded  in  making  his  escape. 

We  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night  about  three 
wersts  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kameschkowa,  which  falls  into  the  great  Aniuj 
near  Patistennoj.  It  was  not  very  late,  and,  as  nu- 
merous tracks  of  sables  were  visible  on  the  new- 


184  Wrangell’s  ^^olar  expedition. 

fallen  snow,  I walked  a little  way  with  my  gun  in 
hopes  of  killing  some.  My  inexperience  in  this 
kind  of  chase  was  probably  the  reason  why  I did 
not  even  get  sight  of  a single  sable  ; however,  I 
shot  several  ptarmigan,  which  afforded  a very  wel- 
come addition  to  our  supper. 

On  the  banks  of  both  the  greater  and  the  lesser 
Aniuj  there  are  an  immense  number  of  traps  and 
snares  of  all  kinds,  for  catching  sables,  ermines,  gray 
squirrels,  wolverines,  and  foxes,  which  still  abound, 
notwithstanding  all  the  arts  resorted  to  for  their  de- 
struction. From  two  to  three  hundred  sables  are 
often  taken  in  the  course  of  the  autumn.  An  indus- 
trious Jukahir  usually  sets  about  five  hundred  differ- 
ent traps  when  the  first  snow  falls.  He  visits  them 
five  or  six  times  in  the  course  of  the  winter,  and  in 
a good  year  he  commonly  finds  one  prize  in  every 
eighth  or  tenth  trap. 

There  are  a great  variety  of  these  traps,  all  made 
of  wood,  without  any  iron,  and  with  no  other  tool 
than  a hatchet,  and  which  show  remarkable  ingenu- 
ity and  mechanical  skill.  They  are  so  perfectly 
adapted  to  the  peculiar  habits,  mode  of  running,  and 
degree  of  strength  of  the  different  animals  they  are 
designed  to  catch,  that  it  would  seem  impossible  to 
make  any  farther  improvement  on  them.  That 
great  practical  teacher,  necessity,  has  led  the  Juka- 
hiri  to  exercise  to  the  utmost  their  inventive  facul- 
ties on  the  only  branch  of  industry  by  which  they 
can  earn  money,  and  they  have  attained  a high  de- 
gree of  perfection  in  the  art,  both  as  respects  the 
contrivances  for  ensnaring  the  fur-animals,  and  in 
the  training  of  the  dogs  and  reindeer  employed  in 
the  chase. 

On  the  night  of  the  2Gth  of  August  we  reached  the 
little  settlement  of  Tigischka  on  the  banks  of  the 
greater  Aniuj,  but  found  no  one  there  except  two  half- 
starved  лѵотеп.  As  Dr.  Kyber  was  ill,  and  unable  to 
continue  the  journey  on  horseback,  we  were  obliged 


OLD  BURYING-PLACES. 


185 


to  halt,  and  to  send  one  of  our  people  to  Sladkoje, 
where  a great  number  of  persons  were  assembled 
for  the  reindeer  hunt,  and  where,  therefore,  we 
hoped  to  be  able  to  obtain  a good-sized  boat.  The 
next  day  the  boat  arrived  ; but  it  was  so  narrow 
that  it  was  impossible  to  stow  ourselves  and  our 
luggage  in  it.  We  therefore  agreed  that  Dr.  Kyber 
should  embark  by  himself,  and  that  I should  ride 
along  the  river-side  as  far  as  Lobasnoje,  where  we 
hoped  to  find  a larger  karbass,  in  which  we  might 
both  proceed,  according  to  our  original  plan,  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Angarka,  where  there  was  for- 
merly a small  fort,  and  where  the  Tschuktschi  were 
in  the  habit  of  resorting  every  year  for  barter. 

On  the  28th  of  August  I resumed  my  journey : 
the  ground  was  covered  Avith  snow,  and  we  had  to 
make  our  way  through  thickets  and  across  streams 
and  morasses.  High  wind  and  falling  snow  contin- 
ued throughout  the  day,  and  we  were  glad  to  take 
shelter  for  the  night  under  the  steep  bank  of  the 
River  Vetrenowka.  The  woods  through  which  we 
had  been  travelling  were  much  finer  than  those  of 
the  lesser  Aniuj.  We  saw,  besides  larch,  a quanti- 
ty of  well-grown  birches,  poplars,  willows,  aspens, 
and  other  species  of  trees.  On  our  way  we  passed 
several  old  burying-places  of  the  earlier  inhabitants, 
which  were  little  wooden  buildings  resembling  the 
sajhy^  or  places  for  depositing  provisions.  The 
corpses  were  clothed,  and  armed  with  bows,  arrows, 
and  spears,  and  those  of  the  schamans  had  their 
magic  drum  in  their  hand.  At  some  little  distance 
from  our  path  we  saw  an  old  wooden  building  re- 
sembling a kind  of  fortification,  made  of  boards,  and 
which  appeared  to  have  been  formed  by  the  aid  of 
stone  hatchets.  The  bad  weather,  the  deep  snow, 
and  the  lateness  of  the  hour  did  not  admit  of  a closer 
examination. 

The  A^etrenowka  has  many  windings,  and  its 
hanks  are  steep  and  rocky.  The  hollows  between 
Q 2 


186  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

the  hills  and  rocks  are  covered  almost  everywhere 
Avith  angular  fragments  of  stone,  which  have  not  yet 
been  rounded  by  the  action  of  the  water.  Both  here, 
and  on  the  lesser  or  dry  Aniuj,  I frequently  met  with 
slate  with  veins  of  spar,  and  occasionally  with  cor- 
nelian and  quartz,  the  former  in  very  small  pieces, 
and  the  latter  in  rather  large  masses.  I also  found 
here  a mammoth’s  jaw-bone  in  tolerably  good  pres- 
ervation. 

After  a rather  uncomfortable  night,  we  resumed 
our  journey  the  next  morning.  It  had  struck  me 
several  times  the  day  before  that  the  guide  was  not 
altogether  well  acquainted  with  the  way;  and  on 
seeing  him  to-day  turn  sometimes  in  one  direction 
and  sometimes  in  another,  without  any  apparent 
reason,  I expressed  to  him  my  doubts  as  to  his 
knowledge  of  the  country.  He  stoutly  maintained, 
however,  that  he  had  often  been  here  before,  and  to 
prove  it,  he  ran  over  the  names  of  the  different  hills 
and  streams  which  we  had  passed.  Meanwhile 
night  came  on,  and  we  were  still  wandering  through 
rugged  and  desert  ravines,  our  horses  almost  ex- 
hausted, when  at  last  the  guide  acknowledged  that 
he  did  not  know  in  what  direction  to  look  for  the 
Aniuj.  I had  now  to  seek  a way  out  of  the  wil- 
derness as  well  as  I could.  My  own  opinion  was, 
that  the  river  lay  to  the  westward,  and,  not  having 
any  compass,  I directed  my  course  to  that  quarter 
by  the  bark  of  the  larch-trees,  which  throughout 
Northern  Siberia  is  black  on  the  north,  and  red  on 
the  south  side  of  the  tree.  The  fur-hunters  often 
thread  their  way  by  it  through  the  trackless  forests. 

We  shortly  came  to  a stream  which  we  supposed 
flowed  into  the  Aniuj,  and,  as  the  darkness  rendered 
the  mountain-paths  both  difficult  and  dangerous,  I 
determined  on  following  its  course ; it  gradually  be- 
came larger,  and  assumed  a northwest  direction. 
After  proceeding  twenty  wersts,  we  heard  to  our 
great  joy  the  rushing  sound  of  the  swollen  river. 


emperor’s  name-day. 


187 


dashing  over  the  rocks  and  stones  which  interrupted 
its  course.  We  soon  reached  its  banks,  and  found 
that,  after  having  wandered  a long  way  from  our 
road,  we  had  come  out  opposite  to  the  village  of 
Sladkoje.  Here  we  sheltered  ourselves  from  the 
wind  and  snow  in  a half-ruined  balagan  which  stood 
near  the  river. 

Our  fire  attracted  the  notice  of  the  Jukahiri  on  the 
opposite  bank,  and  some  of  them  came  across  to  us, 
gave  us  fresh  reindeer  meat,  and  told  us  that  Dr. 
Kyber  had  arrived  in  the  course  of  the  day.  As  our 
horses  were  completely  jaded  and  unfit  to  continue 
the  journey,  I determined  to  leave  most  of  our 
things  here  under  the  care  of  our  Jukahir,  and  to 
cross  over  to  Sladkoje  in  a little  boat.  The  next 
day  Dr.  Kyber  and  I proceeded  in  a karbass,  and 
after  a passage  of  seven  hours,  which  was  rendered 
dangerous  by  the  high  wind  and  the  force  of  the 
waves,  we  arrived  on  the  30th  of  August  at  Lobas- 
noje,  where  a large  number  of  reindeer  are  usually 
taken  at  this  season.  We  heard  several  shots  fired, 
and,  as  we  approached  nearer,  we  were  greeted  by 
the  sound  of  songs.  We  were  met  on  the  landing 
by  two  Jukahir  chiefs,  who  told  us  that  they  were 
celebrating  the  name-day*  of  the  emperor,  or,  as  he 
is  here  called,  the  White  or  Free  Czar,  the  Son  of 
the  Sun.  We  joined  them,  and  distributed  tobacco 
and  brandy,  which  added  to  the  general  hilarity. 
The  men  displayed  their  skill  in  shooting  at  a mark 
with  bows  and  arrows  and  with  guns  ; they  had 
also  footraces  and  boatraces,  the  women  sang  and 
danced,  and  the  rejoicings  continued  till  daybreak. 
Doubtless  the  day  was  celebrated  in  a far  more 
brilliant  manner  in  many  parts  of  the  empire,  but  it 
may  be  doubted  if  it  was  kept  anywhere  with  more 

* It  is  customary  in  Russia  to  celebrate  the  name-day,  that  is, 
the  annual  return  of  the  day  on  which  an  individual  received 
his  name  in  baptism,  as  well  as  his  birthday. — Am.  Ed. 


188  WRANGELL'S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 

cordiality  and  cheerfulness  than  at  this  obscure  vil- 
las^e,  12,000  wersts  from  the  imperial  residence. 

We  found  that  a great  number  of  sick  people  had 
collected  here  to  await  our  arrival,  and  Dr.  Kyber 
decided  on  staying  a fortnight  on  their  account.  As 
there  were  several  surgical  operations  to  be  per- 
formed, he  was  fully  occupied  ; but  the  uninterrupt- 
ed bad  weather,  with  thick-falling  snow,  confined 
me  almost  the  whole  time  in  irksome  inactivity.  It 
was  hardly  possible  to  make  a single  excursion  in 
the  neighbourhood,  and  I had  to  consider  myself  for- 
tunate in  getting  one  meridian  altitude. 

The  inhabitants  say  that  they  find  different  kinds 
of  crystals,  chalcedony,  and  cornelian  in  the  mount- 
ains, and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  flints  of  an  unu- 
sual size,  marked  with  impressions  of  plants  and 
shells.  In  a high  cliflf  of  black  slate  near  the  little 
river  Sladkoje,  which  we  followed  to  the  Aniuj, 
there  is  a whitish  earth,  which  has  a sweetish  and 
rather  astringent  taste,  and  to  which  the  Jukahiri 
ascribe  a variety  of  sanatory  properties. 

The  district  of  the  greater  Aniuj  must  be  more  in- 
teresting than  that  of  the  lesser,  both  on  account  of 
its  denser  population,  and  of  the  greater  variety  of 
plants  and  animals.  We  were  therefore  the  more 
disappointed  at  the  state  of  the  weather,  which  al- 
most precluded  us  from  making  any  observations  for 
ourselves,  and  obliged  us  to  be  contented  with  such 
imperfect  and  uncertain  notices  as  we  could  glean 
from  the  inhabitants. 

The  migratory  reindeer  had  not  yet  passed  the 
river  at  this  place,  and  their  arrival  was  expected 
with  the  utmost  anxiety,  as  scarcity  was  already 
severely  felt.  It  is  not  easy  to  imagine  the  fearful 
extreme  which  famine  sometimes  reaches  among  a 
people  whose  whole  support  depends  on  a single 
precarious  incident.  It  often  happens  that  many 
among  them  have  to  subsist  during  the  latter  part 
of  summer  almost  entirely  on  the  skins  which  form 


DISTRESS  OF  THE  INHABITANTS.  189 

their  bedding  and  clothing ; and  if,  happily,  a single 
reindeer  is  killed,  it  is  immediately  cut  up,  divided 
among  the  whole  tribe,  and  literally  eaten  skin  and 
all,  the  hair  being  just  singed  off : the  contents  of 
the  stomach,  and  even  the  horns,  are  used  for  food. 
Fish  are  not  caught  till  later  in  the  year,  and  even 
then  only  in  small  numbers,  and  few  of  the  inhabi- 
tants venture  to  go  off  to  the  tundras  in  quest  of 
game,  for  fear  of  missing  the  passage  of  the  rein- 
deer, on  which  their. support  so  essentially  depends. 

On  the  12th  of  September  the  famishing  inhabi- 
tants лѵеге  filled  with  joy  at  the  sight  of  immense 
numbers  of  reindeer  approaching  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  opposite  to  Lobasnoje.  I never  saw  such 
a multitude  of  these  animals.  At  a distance  their 
antlers  resembled  a moving  forest.  The  hunters 
flocked  in  from  every  side,  and  hope  beamed  on  ev- 
ery countenance  as  they  arranged  themselves  in 
their  light  boats  to  await  the  passage  of  the  deer. 
But  whether  the  animals  had  seen  and  were  terri- 
fied at  the  crowds  of  people,  or  whatever  the  reason 
may  have  been,  after  a short  pause  they  turned,  left 
the  bank,  and  disappeared  among  the  mountains. 
The  utter  despair  of  the  poor  starving  people  was 
dreadful  to  witness.  It  manifested  itself  among 
these  rude  children  of  nature  in  various  forms. 
Some  wept  aloud  and  Avrung  their  hands ; some 
threw  themselves  on  the  ground,  and  tore  up  the 
snow ; others,  and  among  them  the  more  aged,  stood 
silent  and  motionless,  gazing  with  fixed  and  tearless 
eyes  in  the  direction  where  their  hopes  had  vanish- 
ed. Feeling  our  inability  to  offer  the  smallest  alle- 
viation to  their  misery,  we  hastened  to  quit  this 
scene  of  wo,  and  resumed  our  voyage  on  the  30th, 
notwithstanding  a violent  contrary  wind.  Being  fa- 
voured by  the  current,  we  reached  Sladkoje  the 
same  night,  and  Dolgoje  the  following  day. 

Throughout  the  entire  distance  of  about  eighty 
wersts,  the  river  flows  along  the  foot  of  an  uninter- 


190  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


riipted  mountain  ridge,  from  which  bluff  rocks  occa- 
sionally project,  and  overhang  the  bed  of  the  stream. 
These  rocks  consist  partly  of  light  gray  granite  and 
partly  of  black  slate,  between  which  are  thin  layers 
of  ochre.  The  inhabitants  were  now  having  re- 
course to  the  fisheries  as  their  only  remaining, 
though  wholly  inadequate  resource.  Still,  the  fish- 
eries on  this  river,  if  not  very  productive,  are  usual- 
ly far  more  so  than  those  of  the  lesser  Aniuj,  as  the 
former  stream,  though  not  so  wide,  is  much  deeper 
and  less  rapid  than  the  latter ; and,  consequently, 
the  fish  go  higher  up,  and  in  larger  quantities.  But 
in  the  present  year  of  distress  even  this  last  hope 
failed  ; only  a few  fish,  and  those  small  ones,  were 
taken ; while  more  frequently  the  nets  and  baskets 
came  up  empty.  The  fowling  season  was  over, 
general  famine  appeared  inevitable,  and  no  doubt 
hundreds  of  the  scanty  population  perished,  as  had 
been  repeatedly  the  case  in  former  years.  The  im- 
provident and  careless  habits  of  the  people,  the 
great  distances  between  their  settlements,  and  the 
generally  desert  state  of  the  country,  combine  to 
make  it  impossible  for  the  government  or  its  officers 
to  effect  any  amelioration  in  their  wretched  condi- 
tion. Most  of  these  tribes  were  formerly  nomades, 
ranging  with  their  tame  reindeer  far  and  wide 
through  the  tundras  in  search  of  the  best  pasture. 
After  the  conquest  of  Siberia  they  were  subjected 
to  tribute,  and  were  restricted  to  a limited  circle, 
within  which  they  were  often  unable  to  find  suffi- 
cient food  for  their  herds.’*  The  consequence  of 
this  restriction  has  been  the  gradual  loss  of  those 
animals,  partly  for  want  of  pasture  and  partly  from 

* AfewJukahiri  and  Tschuwanzi,  under  the  conduct  of  a 
chief  named  Tschaia,  still  retain  their  nomade  mode  of  life. 
They  are  distinguished  from  their  countrymen  by  a more  pow- 
erful frame  of  body,  by  the  tents  which  form  their  habitations, 
and  by  their  clothing,  which  resembles  that  worn  by  the  Tschukt- 
schi,  as  does  that  of  all  the  reindeer-nomades  of  Siberia. 


DIMINUTION  OP  THE  POPULATION.  19i 

sickness,  which,  when  it  broke  out  in  a single  herd, 
spread  rapidly  among  the  rest,  as  they  could  no 
longer  be  withdrawn  at  once  to  escape  the  conta- 
gion. The  people  gradually  adopted  many  of  the 
customs  of  their  Russian  conquerors,  in  the  form  of 
their  habitations,  in  their  dress,  and  in  the  employ- 
ment of  dogs*  instead  of  reindeer  for  draught ; but 
they  have  retained  that  recklessness  as  to  the  fu- 
ture which  characterizes  all  the  nomade  races.  As 
Russian  subjects,  they  were  placed  at  enmity  with 
the  Koraki  and  Tschuktschi,  who  are  their  nearest 
neighbours,  and  many  destructive  encounters  have 
taken  place  between  them. 

Attachment  to  the  land  of  their  birth,  and  igno- 
rance of  the  countries  beyond  the  Kolyma,  have 
combined  to  prevent  them  from  spreading  towards 
the  west,  and  to  confine  them  to  a district  where 
their  very  existence  depends  on  success  in  inter- 
cepting the  wild  reindeer  in  their  annual  migrations. 
Thus  hunger,  wars,  and  contagious  diseases,  which 
assume  here  a highly-malignant  type,  have  con- 
spired to  reduce  the  population.  An  old  chief  told 
me  that  some  time  ago  the  Tschuwanzi  requested 
permission  to  remove  to  the  uninhabited  and  fruitful 
districts  along  the  Anadyr  and  the  Penshen,  but  that 
the  commissioners  of  the  Kolymsk  district  had 
hitherto  successfully  opposed  the  granting  of  this 
petition,  lest  they  should  lose  a large  part  of  the  ad- 
vantages which  they  derived  from  the  fur-trade 
with  that  people.! 

* The  custom  of  using  dogs  as  draught  animals  came  no  doubt 
originally  from  the  Kamtschatdales,  from  whom  the  Russians 
adopted  it.  All  the  nations  of  northeastern  Siberia  were  pre- 
viously in  the  habit  of  employing  reindeer  for  this  purpose  ex- 
clusively. The  reindeer  is  useful  to  his  master  in  many  more 
ways  than  the  dog,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  he  is  more  difficult 
to  maintain. 

f There  can  be  little  doubt,  we  think,  from  the  account  here 
given,  notwithstanding  the  guarded  language  of  the  writer,  that 
the  miseries  of  these  poor  people  are  for  the  most  part  occasion- 


192  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


The  Tschuwanzi  and  Jukahiri  of  the  greater  Aniuj, 
from  having  had  far  less  intercourse  with  the  Rus- 
sians than  has  been  the  case  with  the  dwellers  on 
the  banks  of  the  lesser  Aniuj,  have  retained  much 
more  of  their  original  language,  manners,  and  cus- 
toms. The  Lamuti  and  Tungusi  along  these  two 
rivers  have  also  lost  their  tame  reindeer,  and  now 
live  poorly  on  the  uncertain  produce  of  the  chase 
and  the  fisheries.  Nor  are  those  Jakuti  much  bet- 
ter off,  who  have  been  brought  by  the  government 
from  the  banks  of  the  Aldan,  to  aid  in  transporting 
provisions  and  other  stores  to  the  fort  which  for- 
merly existed  on  the  Anadyr.  Separated  from  the 
rest  of  their  countrymen,  they  have  forgotten  even 
their  language,  and  have  assimilated  to  the  Russians 
in  manners,  mode  of  life,  and  even  physical  appear- 
ance. They  live  almost  exclusively  by  fishing,  and 
their  only  domestic  animals  are  the  dogs  which  they 
use  for  draught. 

The  population  on  the  banks  of  the  Aniuj  has  in- 
creased latterly,  but  this  cannot  be  regarded  as  a 
sign  of  improvement  in  the  condition  of  the  people. 
It  is  caused  by  the  influx  of  different  nomade  tribes, 
who,  having  lost  their  reindeer  by  sickness  or  other 
causes,  have  been  forced  to  seek  their  subsistence 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  rivers,  like  the  rest  of 
their  countrymen.  The  number  of  persons  in  this 
district  who  still  continue  to  lead  a nomade  life  does 
not  exceed  400.  All  the  inhabitants  are  subject  to  a 
yearly  tribute,  which  they  pay  partly  in  furs  and 
partly  in  money. 

They  have  all  been  baptized,  and  conform  to  the 
usages  of  the  Russian  Church  at  least  once  a year, 
when  the  different  settlements  are  visited  by  the 
priest  of  Nishne  Kolymsk,  for  the  purpose  of  sol- 
emnizing marriages,  christenings,  and  burials,  and  of 
administering  the  Lord’s  Supper.  The  journey  is  a 
very  difficult  and  laborious  one,  as  it  includes  a cir- 

ed  by  the  mercenary  and  inhuman  policy  of  their  Russian 
ters.— Am,  Ed. 


SUPERSTITIONS. 


193 


cuit  of  many  hundred  wersts,  at  the  worst  season  of  ? 
the  year,  and  in  a wild  and  desert  country.  It  is,  ' 
however,  a very  advantageous  journey  to  the  priest 
in  a pecuniary  point  of  view,  from  the  number  of 
presents  which  he  receives  ; it  being  not  uncommon 
for  him  to  return  with  two  or  three  sledges  laden  \ 
with  the  most  costly  furs,  as  sables,  ermines,  foxes,  i 
&c. 

Pagan  superstitions  have  been  a good  deal  checked  ' 
by  the  uitfqJuctiiJOrT^hrist^  the  belief  in 

the^powef  Both  of  gpod  and  evil  spirits,  and  of  the 
scJidmans^  "still  keep^,_  h and,  singularly  i 

ehöugh;tiäs  extended  itseJLtplhe  I have  ! 

еѵегТІ^Шеп  a^ufed,  that  apriesTw^o  was^^out  to  un-  j 
dertäke  a lourney  to  Irkuzk  applied  tod  scEamafTlo 
аАЬНЖт  protection  by  his^äi^againsräi^^  ' 

on  the  road!  ^Generally  speaking  however, 
xnanism  has  lost  its  religious  character.  "With  the 
Russians “itls  'fö  part  merely  a mode  of  < 

passing  away  the  lime,  and'ltey^^^  a schaman  I 

to  occupy  an  evening  in  the  practice  of  his  tricks, 
just  as  in  Europe  people  send  for  a conjuror. 

But  to  return  to  our  journey.  The  cold  increased 
daily.  The  ice  extended  farther  from  the  margin  of 
the  river,  and  we  came  to  places  where  the  current 
was  less  rapid,  which  were  completely  frozen  over, 
so  that  we  were  obliged  to  open  a passage  with 
our  hatchets  and  poles.  We  hastened  our  voyage 
as  much  as  possible,  that  we  might  arrive  at  some 
place  where  we  could  procure  sledges  before  the 
river  was  entirely  closed.  With  great  difficulty  we 
reached  Bolschaja  Brussanka,  where  we  were  receiv- 
ed at  the  summer  dwelling  of  a Jakutian  knasez  or 
chief ; and  here  we  had  to  wait  till  the  stream  should 
be  completely  frozen  and  the  winter  road  estab- 
lished. 

During  our  stay  the  cold  seldom  exceeded  +9°, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  water  changed  but  very 
gradually. 

R 


394  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

In  the  Aniuj,  as  well  as  in  all  the  more  rapid  and 
rocky  streams  of  this  district,  the  formation  of  ice 
takes  place  in  two  different  ways  : a thin  crust 
spreads  itself  along  the  banks  and  over  the  smaller 
bays  where  the  current  is  least  rapid,  but  the  greater 
part  is  formed  in  the  hollows  among  the  stones,  in 
the  bed  of  the  river,  where  the  weeds  give  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  a greenish  mud.  As  soon  as  a piece  of 
ice  of  this  kind  attains  a certain  size,  it  is  detache'd 
from  the  ground,  and  raised  to  the  surface  by  the 
greater  specific  gravity  of  the  water  : these  masses, 
containing  a quantity  of  gravel  and  weeds,  unite  and 
consolidate,  and  in  a few  hours  the  river  becomes 
passable  in  sledges  instead  of  boats. 

On  the  24th  of  September  everything  was  ready 
for  resuming  our  journey  in  sledges.  The  dogs 
were  weak  from  being  scantily  fed,  and  we  could 
drive  but  slowly,  so  that  we  did  not  reach  the  Jaku- 
tian  settlement  of  Potistennoje  until  the  28th.  This 
name,  signifying  five-cornered  or  five-walled,  is  ta- 
ken from  a large  insulated  rock,  which  in  its  five 
perpendicular  sides  of  equal  dimensions  bears  a stri- 
king resemblance  to  a five-cornered  tower.  Here 
we  obtained  fresh  dogs,  and  drove  the  same  day  to  a 
village  called  Basko  wo,  where  we  found  a few  Rus- 
sian families  who  had  not  yet  returned  to  Nishne 
Kolymsk.  From  Brussanka  to  Baskowo  the  banks 
of  the  stream  are  generally  flat,  with  a few  occa- 
sional sandhills,  which  are  constantly  being  under- 
mined by  the  water.  The  whole  district  is  a mo- 
rass, interspersed  with  small  lakes,  and  here  and 
there  are  low  bushes  and  stunted  larch-trees  ; a few 
taller  trees  are  also  seen  in  places  where  the  ground 
is  a little  raised.  There  is  no  part  of  it  but  is  sin- 
gularly dreary  and  uninteresting ; we  were  five  days 
in  travelling  through  it,  and  on  the  29th  of  Septem- 
ber we  were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  Nishne  Ko- 
lymsk again,  after  an  absence  of  seventy  days.  The 
nature  of  the  country  and  the  lateness  of  the  sea- 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  INHABITANTS.  195 

son  rendered  the  latter  part  of  our  journey  almost 
wholly  devoid  of  interest. 

It  may  be  said  of  the  inhabitants  generally,  that, 
notwithstanding  the  influence  of  the  Russians,  they 
still  preserve,  in  a great  measure,  their  original  char- 
acteristics, both  in  their  physical  appearance  and 
disposition.  Like  most  of  the  natives  of  the  Polar 
Circle,  they  are  of  short  stature,  but  broad-shoulder- 
ed and  muscular.  Their  hands  and  feet  are  very 
small,  their  heads  large  in  proportion  to  their  bodies, 
the  face  is  broad  and  flat,  and  the  wide  cheeks  appear 
to  press  the  mouth  together  and  give  it  a roundish 
form.  Their  hair  is  black  and  coarse,  and  their  small 
deep-seated  eyes  are  dull  and  inanimate.  Their 
whole  outward  form  seems  contracted  by  the  sever- 
ity of  the  climate,  and  the  constant  struggle  with 
cold  and  hunger ; and  from  the  same  causes,  their 
moral  and  intellectual  faculties  are  but  imperfectly 
developed. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Third  Journey  on  the  Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea. — Preparations. — 
Mortality  among  the  Dogs.  — Departure  from  Nishne  Ko- 
lymsk.  — Journey  towards  the  North.  — Waves  of  Drifted 
Snow.  — Encounters  with  White  Bears.  — Deposite  of  Pro- 
visions.—Difficulties. — Accident. — High  Hummocks. — Sec- 
ond Deposite  of  Provisions.— The  Expedition  Divided.— False 
Appearances  of  Land. — Return  to  the  Deposites  of  Provis- 
ions.— The  Expedition  Reunited. — Proceed  Northward  again. 
—Easter. — Breaking  up  of  the  Ice. — Hummocks. — Turn  to 
the  Eastward. — State  of  the  Ice. — Cape  Schelagskoj. — Arri- 
val at  the  First  Deposite  of  Provisions.— Return  to  the  Coast. 
— Pochodsk. — Famine. — Arrival  at  Nishne  Kolymsk — Inun- 
dation. 

The  short  summer  of  1821,  which  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Nishne  Kolymsk  had  been  marked  by  so 
disastrous  a failure  in  the  produce  both  of  the  fish- 


196  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

eries  and  the  chase,  was  succeeded  by  a long  winter 
of  suffering.  Our  own  position  was  a painful  one, 
unable,  as  we  were,  in  any  measure  to  relieve  the  gen- 
eral  distress.  To  the  want  of  provisions  was  added 
a new  misfortune,  hitherto  almost  unknown  in  this 
district,  namely,  a widespread  malady  among  the 
dogs.  This  disease  had  shown  itself  during  the 
summer  on  the  banks  of  the  Lena,  the  Jana,  and  the 
Indigirka ; and  very  soon  after  the  beginning  of  win- 
ter it  reached  the  banks  of  the  Kolyma.  As  our 
intended  journey  over  the  ice  depended  on  our  hav- 
ing the  ninety-six  dogs  required  for  eight  sledges,  I 
sought  anxiously  to  adopt  such  precautions  as  might 
secure  those  we  obtained  from  infection.  Orders 
were  given  to  procure  as  quickly  as  possible  at  least 
a hundred  healthy  dogs,  and  to  take  them  immedi- 
ately to  the  greater  and  lesser  Tschukotschje  Rivers, 
to  be  kept  there  at  the  expense  of  the  expedition, 
cutting  off  all  communication  with  the  neighbouring 
district.  Part  of  our  provisions  had  also  to  be  con- 
veyed to  the  storehouse  which  had  been  built  near 
the  Baranicha  River.  But  while  we  were  endeav- 
ouring to  execute  these  plans,  the  malady  spread  so 
rapidly  that  we  had  the  utmost  difficulty  in  procu- 
ring thirty-six  dogs  instead  of  the  required  ninety- 
six  ; and  though  they  were  instantly  sent  away, 
they  almost  all  died.  The  mortality  increased  daily 
with  the  increasing  intensity  of  the  cold,  and  it  soon 
extended  to  all  the  villages  and  settlements  in  the 
Kolymsk  district.  The  inhabitants  felt  the  loss  of 
these  valuable  and  almost  indispensable  servants 
more  acutely  than  they  did  the  scarcity,  to  occasion- 
al returns  of  which  they  are  accustomed,  and  in  a 
great  measure  resigned.  Such  was  the  unhappy 
state  of  things  at  the  opening  of  the  new  year.  As 
the  time  of  our  departure  was  near,  I gave  up  all 
hopes  of  obtaining  any  more  dogs  in  our  own  dis- 
trict; and  sent  one  of  the  most  trustworthy  of  the 
Cossacks  to  the  Indigirka,  where  the  sickness  had 


DIFFICULTY  OF  OBTAINING  DOGS.  197 


not  reached,  with  a commission  to  purchase  sixty, 
and  to  keep  them  in  readiness  until  farther  orders 
near  the  greater  Tschukotschje  River,  feeding  them 
well.  On  the  5th  of  March  1 received  information 
from  him  that  he  had  found  it  impossible  to  collect 
more  than  forty-five  good  dogs,  and  that  with  these 
he  was  waiting  for  me  at  the  appointed  place. 

As  the  intensity  of  the  cold  diminished,  the  sick- 
ness gradually  abated,  until  at  last  it  entirely  disap- 
peared, but  not  until  the  inhabitants  had  lost  four 
fifths  of  their  dogs.  Most  of  those  which  had  sur- 
vived were  the  property  of  the  Cossacks,  who,  on 
seeing  the  difficulty  in  which  I was  involved  relative 
to  the  journey  which  it  was  my  duty  to  make,  came 
forward  of  their  own  accord,  and,  in  conjunction 
with  some  of  the  citizens,  most  generously  volun- 
teered to  fit  out  twenty  sledges  with  twelve  dogs 
each.  We  had  now  nearly  three  hundred,  including 
those  at  the  Tschukotschje  River,  but  there  were  not 
more  than  sixty  among  them  that  we  could  depend 
upon  for  a distant  journey : the  rest  were  all  so  weak 
as  to  be  almost  wholly  unserviceable.  I was  obliged, 
therefore,  materially  to  alter  my  original  plan,  which 
had  been  to  form  the  expedition  into  two  divisions. 
This  was  necessarily  given  up,  as  well  as  the  inten- 
tion of  beginning  our  journey  over  the  ice  from  the 
mouth  of  the  great  Baranicha,  where  a large  hut  and 
a storehouse  had  been  constructed,  as  before  men- 
tioned. The  latter  was  empty,  as  it  had  been  bare- 
ly possible,  for  want  of  dogs,  to  convey  provisions 
as  far  as  Sucharnoje. 

Everything  was  at  length  ready  for  our  departure, 
the  sledges  being  loaded  with  dried  and  frozen  fish 
and  other  necessaries,  and  we  left  Nishne  Kolymsk 
on  the  10th  of  March.  My  companions  were  MM. 
Matiuschkin  and  Kosmin,  and  the  sailor  Nechorosch- 
kow.  Dr.  Kyber  was  bent  on  accompanying  us, 
notwithstanding  his  weak  state  of  health,  and  actual- 
ly set  off  with  us  ; but,  in  spite  of  all  his  efforts,  he 


198  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

found  himself  obliged  to  return  from  Sucharnoje  on 
the  14th. 

We  had  only  five  proper  travelling-sledges,  with 
teams  of  dogs  fit  for  the  whole  journey  ; the  remain- 
ing nineteen  carried  provisions,  and  were  to  return 
as  soon  as  empty.  One  of  our  drivers  was  to  serve 
as  interpreter  to  the  Tschuktschi. 

We  reached  Sucharnoje  on  the  12th  of  March,  and 
spent  the  13th  in  making  necessary  preparations. 
We  took  provisions  for  ourselves  for  forty  days,  and 
for  the  dogs  for  thirty-five  days,  and  began  our  jour- 
ney over  the  ice  on  the  14th.  On  the  15th  we  reach- 
ed the  greater  Baranow  Rock,  where  we  took  up  as 
much  driftwood  as  we  could  add  to  our  loads.  Un- 
luckily, лѵе  found  only  larch,  which  is  heavy  in  car- 
riage, and  burns  quickly.  Having  been  made  aware 
of  this  on  our  previous  journeys,  I had  directed  a sup- 
ply of  birch-wood  to  be  brought  from  the  two  Aniuj 
rivers  to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  and  dried  to  make  it  light- 
er. We  had  enough  of  this  for  fifteen  days’  con- 
sumption, besides  four  pood  of  train  oil,  which  would 
serve  for  ten  days  more  ; and  altogether  a stock  of 
fuel  for  nearly  forty  days,  though  our  sledges  were 
rather  heavily  loaded. 

On  the  16th  we  drove  northward,  with  a strong 
breeze  from  the  east,  dark  weather  and  snow.  The 
north  and  northwest  sides  of  the  greater  Baranow 
Rock,  which  are  washed  by  the  waves,  consist  of 
perpendicular  masses  of  slate  six  fathoms  in  height, 
and  occasionally  broken  by  a few  ravines.  After 
proceeding  eight  wersts,  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
most  northern  point  of  the  rock,  where  a few  insula- 
ted pillars  present  the  appearance  of  a ruined  castle. 

From  this  point  we  took  our  course  straight  across 
the  sea,  in  a N.  30°  E.  direction.  It  appeared  to  me 
that  the  object  of  our  journey  would  be  best  answer- 
ed by  proceeding  to  the  N.E.,  until  we  should  come 
to  71|o  lat.,  in  the  meridian  of  Cape  Schelagskoj, 
and  150  wersts  distant  from  that  promontory.  I 


ICE  HüxMMOCKS. 


199 


there  proposed  to  form  a deposite  of  provisions,  to 
send  back  the  empty  sledges,  and  with  the  remain- 
der to  pursue  my  researches  to  the  east,  north,  and 
northwest.  In  this  manner  our  present  journey 
would  form  a continuation  of  that  of  the  preceding 
year,  and  we  might  hope  for  a satisfactory  conclu- 
sion in  respect  to  the  existence  or  non-existence  of 
the  problematical  northern  land. 

About  one  werst  and  a half  from  the  shore  we 
came  to  a considerable  group  of  irregular  hummocks, 
and,  after  driving  among  them  for  eighteen  wersts, 
we  halted  ; not  that  we  required  rest,  but  in  order  to 
repair  two  of  the  travelling-sledges  which  had  been 
injured,  and  to  wait  for  the  provision-sledges,  which 
did  not  come  up  till  late  in  the  night,  and  then  in  a 
very  bad  condition.  They  had  been  so  much  dam- 
aged in  passing  the  hummocks,  that  we  were  obliged 
to  expend  a large  part  of  our  store  of  birch-wood  in 
mending  them.  This  unsatisfactory  work  occupied 
us  during  the  whole  of  the  following  day,  and  we 
could  not  resume  our  journey  until  11  o’clock  on  the 
18th.  We  had  heavy  snow,  a cutting  N.W'.  wind, 
and  a temperature  of  The  hummocks  dimin- 

ished in  size  and  number,  and  at  last  ceased  alto- 
gether ; but  in  their  stead  we  found  a large  plain 
crossed  by  immense  waves  or  ridges  of  snow,  and 
though  the  sledges  suffered  here  much  less  than 
among  the  hummocks,  our  dogs  were  wearied  by 
having  continually  to  ascend  and  descend.  The 
height  of  these  ridges,  which  was  two  fathoms  and 
upward,  showed  that  a vast  quantity  of  snow  must 
have  fallen,  and  that  east  winds  had  chiefly  prevailed. 

By  our  noon  observation  we  were  in  69°  56^  lati- 
tude, and  our  longitude  by  reckoning  was  0°  IT 
east  of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock.  Our  day’s  march 
on  the  18th  was  only  twenty-three  wersts,  chiefly 
from  the  delays  occasioned  by  the  provision-sledges. 
As  some  compensation  for  this,  however,  we  suc- 
ceeded in  killing  a large  white  bear,  whose  flesh  was 


200  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

very  acceptable  to  the  dogs.  In  the  night  the  tem- 
perature fell  to  — 24^^,  and  continued  the  same 
throughout  the  19th  ; but  there  being  very  little 
wind,  it  was  endurable.  Towards  noon  the  weather 
cleared,  and  we  saw  the  greater  Baranow,  distant 
forty  worsts,  bearing  S.  1 W. 

The  next  day  we  accomplished  eighteen  worsts 
between  9 A.M.  and  noon.  Our  observation  made 
the  latitude  70°  12',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning 
was  0^  50'  E.  of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock.  After 
completing  thirty-six  worsts,  лѵе  were  obliged  to 
halt  earlier  than  usual,  on  account  of  the  violent  N.W. 
wind  and  thick  drifting  snow.  Our  sixteen  provis- 
ion-sledges (we  had  emptied  and  sent  back  three) 
were,  as  usual,  behind,  and  it  was  not  till  late  at 
night  that  fourteen  of  them  came  in,  the  drivers  be- 
ing unable  to  tell  us  anything  of  the  two  that  were 
still  missing.  My  uneasiness  at  this  circumstance 
was  increased  by  knowing  that  a number  of  white 
bears  were  roaming  about : one  had  even  broke  into 
our  camp  in  the  course  of  the  night,  but  was  imme- 
diately killed.  As  soon  as  day  dawned  we  were  on 
the  look-out  for  the  missing  sledges : happily,  they 
at  length  arrived,  the  drivers  informing  us  that  they 
had  lost  sight  of  their  companions  in  the  thick  snow- 
drift, and  had  been  obliged  to  halt  where  they  were  ; 
that  they  had  suffered  much  from  the  severity  of  the 
cold,  having  neither  fire  nor  food,  and  had  passed  the 
night  in  constant  fear  of  the  bears,  which  had  proba- 
bly been  deterred  from  attacking  them  only  by  their 
shouts  and  by  the  barking  of  their  dogs.  We  de- 
posited part  of  our  provisions  in  the  ice  at  this  place, 
and  sent  back  three  more  empty  sledges. 

The  N.W.  wind  became  still  more  violent,  and 
the  snowdrift  thicker,  the  thermometer  standing  at 
— 9°.  But,  notwithstanding  the  badness  of  the  day, 
we  were  able  to  get  an  observation  at  noon,  which 
made  our  latitude  70°  19^ ; our  longitude  by  reckon- 
ing was  10  6'  E.  of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock. 


INCREASING  DIFFICULTIES.  201 

On  the  21st  the  wind  abated  and  veered  to  the 
east,  but  the  sky  was  still  overcast,  and  the  ther- 
mometer showed  — no.  At  10  A.M.  we  resumed 
our  route  to  the  northeast  among  hummocks : our 
noon  observation  gave  70°  26^  latitude,  and  we  were 
10  22'  east  of  the  Baranow.  In  the  afternoon  we 
killed  a bear  that  had  followed  us,  and  had  wounded 
three  of  our  best  dogs.  Some  of  the  sledge-drivers 
had  become  so  dissatisfied  with  their  meager  fare 
that  they  determined  to  try  some  slices  of  the  bear’s 
meat,  notwithstanding  the  aversion  universally  en- 
tertained for  it  in  the  country.  They  assured  us 
that  they  found  it  very  palatable.  At  night  we  had 
a violent  east  wind,  with  a temperature  of  — 24°. 

On  the  22d  of  March  we  started  again,  after  re- 
pairing our  sledges,  which  had  been  damaged  among 
the  hummocks,  our  latitude  being  at  noon  70°  39', 
and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  1°  5T  east  of  the 
greater  Baranow.  By  our  portable  azimuth  com- 
pass the  variation  was  14|o  E.  The  deep  snow  and 
large  hummocks  impeded  us  so  much  that  we  made 
only  fourteen  wersts  before  nightfall,  when  the  wind 
and  snowdrift  became  more  and  more  violent,  and 
the  provision-sledges,  which  did  not  arrive  until  six 
hours  later,  probably  owed  their  safety  to  the  drivers 
having  attended  strictly  to  the  orders  which  had 
been  given  them,  to  keep  close  together,  so  as  to 
be  able  to  assist  each  other. 

On  the  23d,  to  our  great  joy,  we  had  the  kind  of 
warm  wind  mentioned  in  a previous  chapter,  with  a 
clear  sky,  and  the  thermometer  at  +35°.  We  has- 
tened, therefore,  to  avail  ourselves  of  so  favourable 
a change,  by  drying  our  tent,  harness,  bedding,  and 
clothes  of  every  description. 

Meanwhile  M.  Matiuschkin  went  forward  with 
two  sledges  to  examine  whether  the  difficulties  to- 
wards the  northeast  became  any  less.  He  reported 
that,  on  the  contrary,  the  hummocks  increased  both 
in  size  and  number,  but  that  there  appeared  to  be  an 


202  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

opening  to  the  west,  and  we  accordingly  proceeded 
in  that  direction : our  noon  latitude  was  70^  42',  and 
our  longitude  lo  5Г  E.  by  reckoning.  We  soon 
came  again  to  bad  hummocks,  among  which  we  met 
with  continual  accidents  ; the  traces  of  my  sledge 
broke  just  as  it  had  attained  the  summit  of  one  of 
the  highest  hummocks,  and  the  dogs  flew  down  the 
steep  declivity,  leaving  the  vehicle  and  myself  at 
the  top.  Unluckily,  too,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  they 
came  upon  a fresh  bear’s  track,  and  followed  it,  not- 
withstanding our  cries,  until  they  were  stopped  by 
the  broken  traces  which  they  dragged  after  them 
becoming  entangled  in  some  blocks  of  ice.  But  for 
this  fortunate  occurrence  we  should  probably  have 
lost  them  altogether,  and  been  subjected  to  great  dif- 
ficulties in  consequence  of  it ; after  a long  chase,  we 
found  them  four  worsts  from  the  place  where  they 
had  left  the  sledge,  and  quite  exhausted  by  the  ef- 
forts they  had  made  to  free  themselves. 

Though  we  had  advanced  but  six  worsts,  we  were 
forced  to  halt  under  the  shelter  of  a large  block  of 
ice.  A long  range  of  elevated  hummocks  extended 
to  the  S.E. ; our  provision-sledges  were,  as  usual, 
much  behind,  and  it  took  them  ten  hours  to  get  over 
the  six  worsts.  The  wind  blew  strong  from  the 
S.W.  during  the  night,  but  abated  towards  morning. 
We  started  early  on  the  24th,  with  a clouded  sky 
and  a temperature  of  + 7o.  About  noon  snow  began 
to  fall,  and  our  difficulties  this  day  were  greater 
than  ever : we  had  to  break  our  way  with  crowbars 
across  higher  and  more  rugged  hummocks  than  any 
we  had  before  met  with.  The  ice  of  which  they  were 
formed  was  very  solid,  and  had  a knotty  appearance, 
and  they  were  covered  in  many  places  with  blue 
clay  and  gravel.  In  spite  of  the  greatest  care,  the 
sledges  were  frequently  overset,  sometimes  sliding 
down  the  slippery  declivities  and  being  precipitated 
into  the  narrow  ravines,  from  which  we  extricated 
them  with  the  greatest  difficulty.  The  efforts  of 


RETURN  OP  SLEDGES, 


203 


both  men  and  dogs  were  taxed  to  the  utmost,  and 
all  of  us  were  more  or  less  hurt  by  falls.  As  the 
provision-sledges  had  suffered  the  most,  and  con- 
stantly caused  great  delay,  I determined  to  send 
them  home  from  this  place,  and  to  deposite  in  the 
ice  the  provisions  which  they  carried.  We  excava- 
ted receptacles  for  these  with  great  care,  and  closed 
them  up  with  thick  blocks  of  ice,  filling  up  all  the 
crevices  with  snow,  and  pouring  water  over  the 
whole,  so  as  to  form  it  into  a solid  mass,  that  it 
might  not  be  disturbed  by  the  bears.  When  this 
was  done  we  proceeded  to  mend  the  sledges,  which 
stood  greatly  in  need  of  it ; but  the  joy  of  the  drivers 
at  being  permitted  to  return  home  was  so  great,  that, 
fatigued  as  they  were,  they  sung  over  their  work, 
which  they  completed  with  extraordinary  despatch. 

The  25th  was  spent  in  this  labour.  Towards 
evening  the  horizon  cleared  a little,  and  we  saw 
two  mountain-like  elevations  : one,  which  bore  S. 
190  W.,  I considered  to  be  the  greater  Baranow 
Rock,  distant  by  reckoning  130  wersts ; the  other 
bore  S.  50  W. ; but  whether  they  were  really  mount- 
ains I could  not  be  sure.  On  determining  our  po- 
sition by  the  bearing  of  the  one  supposed  to  be  the 
Baranow  Rock,  it  was  found  to  agree  with  our  reck- 
oning, and  it  appeared  that  we  were  thirty  wersts  to 
the  east  of  the  most  eastern  point  of  our  last  ice- 
journey. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  the  thirteen  empty 
sledges  started  on  their  return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk. 
I had  sent  M.  Matiuschkin  the  day  before,  with  two 
sledges  and  provisions  for  five  days,  to  seek  a route 
by  which  we  might  penetrate  to  the  northeast,  an^ 
I now  proceeded  northward  with  M.  Kosmin,  ta’ ' 
three  sledges  and  provisions  for  three  days.  As  it 
had  been  arranged  that  we  should  all  meet  here 
again  on  the  29th,  the  large  tent  was  left  on  the  spot 
till  our  return.  We  took  at  first  a N.W.  direction, 
in  which  the  hummocks  were  smaller  and  less  con- 


204  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

tiguous.  After  advancing  fourteen  wersts,  our  noon 
observation  gave  the  latitude  70^  52',  and  the  longi- 
tude was  P 56^E.  of  the  Baranow  Rock  by  reckon- 
ing. The  old  hummocks  gradually  diminished  in 
number,  and  farther  to  the  north  we  came  upon  an- 
other group,  consisting  of  more  recent  ice : these 
had  been  formed  by  the  packing  of  driftice  in  the 
winter,  and  were  distinguished  by  a greenish-blue 
colour. 

We  found  here  a strip  of  ice  bare  of  snow,  running 
along  the  margin  of  a new  fissure,  in  a W.N.W.  di- 
rection. Having  driven  five  wersts  on  this  smooth 
pathway,  we  were  astonished  at  falling  in  with  old 
sledge-tracks,  which,  on  examination,  we  recognised 
as  those  of  our  journey  the  preceding  winter.  As 
by  our  reckoning  we  were  thirty-five  wersts  from 
our  last  year’s  route,  it  is  probable  that  the  N.W. 
лvind,  which  prevails  throughout  the  summer,  had 
caused  the  whole  field  to  drift  thus  far  to  the  east- 
ward. 

This  day  we  accomplished  fifty-one  wersts,  among 
recent  hummocks,  meeting  occasionally  with  a few 
old  ones,  the  sides  of  many  of  which  were  partially 
covered  with  gravel  and  sand  : the  evening  and  night 
were  clear,  the  temperature  — 13°,  with  a gentle 
breeze  from  the  S.E.,  and  we  had  hummocks  around 
us  on  every  side. 

On  the  27th,  our  latitude  at  noon  was  71o  13',  our 
longitude  by  reckoning  2o  13'  E.  of  the  greater  Bar- 
anow Rock  ; variation  15°  E.  While  taking  our  ob- 
servation, M.  Kosmin  thought  that  from  the  summit 
of  one  of  the  highest  hummocks  he  could  see  two 
hills  to  the  northeast.  Our  attention  being  directed 
to  them,  they  appeared  clearly  like  two  dark-blue 
mountainous  hills,  sometimes  visible  and  sometimes 
obscured,  the  highest  of  the  two  bearing  N.  40°  E. 
Opinions  were  divided  in  regard  to  them;  M.  Kos- 
min and  myself  considered  them  as  land,  but  our 
sledge-drivers  looked  upon  it  all  as  one  of  those  op- 


REMARKABLE  OPTICAL  ILLUSION.  205 


tical  illusions  which  have  been  already  spoken  of. 
We  drove  on  in  a N.  40°  E.  direction,  and  when  we 
had  gone  about  a werst,  we  came  to  a piece  of  near- 
ly rotten  wood  imbedded  in  the  ice.  The  farther 
we  advanced  the  clearer  our  hills  appeared,  pre- 
senting now  the  aspect  of  a hilly  country  of  moder- 
ate elevation,  at  no  great  distance  from  us.  We 
could  plainly  distinguish,  as  we  supposed,  the  val- 
leys between  the  different  eminences,  and  even  sev- 
eral single  rocks  ; everything,  in  short,  confirmed 
us  in  the  hope  of  having  reached  at  length  the  long- 
sought-for  land,  the  object  of  all  our  toils.  We  has- 
tened forward,  therefore,  amid  mutual  congratula- 
tions ; but,  as  the  evening  light  set  in,  we  all  at  once 
saw  our  newly-discovered  terra  firma  move  40°  to 
windward,  and  extend  itself  along  the  horizon,  until 
we  appeared  to  be  in  a lake  quite  surrounded  by 
mountains. 

We  halted  for  the  night,  full  of  disappointment, 
after  a day’s  journey  of  forty  worsts ; we  had  a 
sharp  E.N.E.  wind,  with  a temperature  of  — 4°, 
The  next  day,  the  28th,  the  same  illusion  was  re- 
peated.* 

* These  illusions  appear  to  be  of  every  form  and  variety  in 
the  Polar  Regions,  and  some  of  them  exceedingly  striking  and 
beautiful,  as  the  following,  seen  by  M.  Kosmin  during  his  jour- 
ney along  the  coast  the  previous  year.  “ The  warm  weather,” 
he  says,  “ of  the  last  three  days  (July  14th  to  17th)  might  well 
have  made  us  forget  the  latitude  (70°  57'),  if  the  fields  of  ice 
which  covered  the  sea,  and  the  perpetually-frozen  ground  be- 
neath our  feet,  had  not  reminded  us  of  it.  Three  days  before 
we  could  not  lay  aside  our  thick  winter  garments,  and  now  the 
lightest  clothing  seemed  too  warm.  The  sun  had  been  constant- 
ly shining  for  the  last  seventy-two  hours  in  a clear  and  cloudless 
sky.  This  was  the  last  day  that  we  saw  it  in  its  full  magnifi- 
cence, heightened  by  the  refraction  which  the  great  evaporation 
from  the  sea  produced.  The  size  of  its  disk,  its  altitude,  and  its 
light  appeared  to  vary  incessantly.  One  moment  it  seemed  to 
contract,  to  assume  an  elliptical  form,  and  to  sink  into  the  ocean ; 
it  would  then  suddenly  rise  again  in  full  size  and  majesty,  and 
float  above  the  horizon  in  a flood  of  red  or  yellow  light.  This 
magnificent  spectacle  lasted  throughout  the  day,  nor  could  we 


206  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

After  going  eleven  wersts  and  a half  in  a N.N.W. 
direction,  we  found  our  latitude  at  noon  to  be  71^ 
34',  our  longitude  2°  50'  E.  of  the  greater  Baranow 
Rock  by  reckoning,  variation  17°  E.  The  hum- 
mocks did  not  appear  to  diminish,  and  it  was  now 
time  to  return  to  the  spot  where  we  were  to  meet 
M.  Matiuschkin.  We  travelled  faster  in  returning, 
partly  because  the  dogs  always  run  better  and  more 
rapidly  over  a track  with  which  they  are  acquaint- 
ed,  and  partly  from  some  of  the  worst  places  having 
been  smoothed  in  our  previous  passage  : we  made 
fifty  wersts  before  sunset. 

On  the  29th,  an  easterly  breeze  rendered  the  at- 
mosphere damp,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  -{-12°. 
We  saw  several  tracks  of  bears,  and  of  their  para- 
sites, the  stone-foxes.  Late  in  the  evening  we  reach- 
ed the  place  where  we  had  deposited  our  provisions, 
and  found  M.  Matiuschkin  awaiting  us.  He  had 
made  ninety  wersts  in  a N.E.  direction  in  three 
days,  and  had  reached  71°  10'  latitude  in  the  merid- 
ian of  Sand  Cape,  having  met  with  fewer  obstacles 
than  before  ; still  he  had  encountered  many  difficul- 
ties, particularly  from  the  great  quantity  of  deep 
snow,  in  which  the  dogs  and  sledges  were  some- 
times completely  buried.  He,  too,  had  been  de- 
ceived by  the  appearance  of  land  on  the  horizon : 
besides  tracks  of  stone-foxes,  he  had  seen  that  of  a 
red  fox,  a singular  circumstance  at  such  a distance 
from  land. 

The  driver  who  was  to  serve  us  as  interpreter  if 
we  should  meet  with  any  of  the  Tschuktschi,  was 
attacked  with  violent  cramps  in  the  stomach.  For- 
tunately, we  had  with  us  a Jukahir  who  passed  for  a 
surgeon  on  the  banks  of  the  Omolon,  and  who  al- 

refrain  from  gazing  on  it,  notwithstanding  the  pain  which  the 
brilliant  light  caused  to  our  eyes.  In  the  night  of  the  17th  I 
measured  with  the  sextant  the  apparent  diameter  of  the  sun, 
when  on  the  meridian  below  the  pole,  and  found  it  37'  15''  in  a 
horizontal,  and  28'  20"  in  a vertical  direction. ’’—Атп.  Ed. 


ACCIDENT  TO  SLEDGE-DRIVERS.  207 

ways  carried  a lancet.  He  was  proud  of  being  con- 
sulted, and  decided  at  once  that  it  would  be  right  to 
open  a vein,  which  he  did  with  much  expertness  : 
whether  this  contributed  to  the  patient’s  amendment 
I know  not,  but  the  pain  subsided.  We  remained 
where  we  were  for  a day,  to  allow  him  time  to  re- 
cover strength.  We  all  suffered,  as  before,  from  in- 
flammation of  the  eyes,  which  was  mitigated  in  some 
degree  by  the  use  of  black  crape  veils  and  specta- 
cles, and  by  gently  rubbing  the  eyes  with  spirits. 
While  waiting  for  our  patient,  we  occupied  ourselves 
with  taking  from  the  deposite  provisions  for  twenty 
days,  and  packing  them  on  the  sledges. 

On  the  31st  of  March,  at  2 P.M.,  we  resumed  our 
journey  in  a north  direction,  which  appeared  to  pre- 
sent fewer  difficulties  than  the  northeastern  one  ; 
still  we  only  made  twelve  wersts  before  night.  The 
evening  and  night  were  perfectly  calm,  with  a cloud- 
ed sky  ; but  the  next  morning  (April  1st)  an  east 
wind,  which  veered  in  the  afternoon  to  the  south, 
scattered  the  clouds.  We  could  accomplish  but 
twenty  wersts,  being  obliged  to  walk  all  the  way, 
and  frequently  even  to  assist  the  dogs  in  drawing 
the  sledges. 

The  2d  of  April,  being  Easter-day,  we  did  not  trav- 
el : double  rations  лѵеге  issued  to  each  individual ; 
and  the  mildness  of  the  weather  and  the  bright  sun- 
shine added  still  farther  to  our  cheerfulness  and  the 
refreshing  effects  of  our  repose. 

The  clear,  mild  weather  continued  on  the  3d,  but 
the  hummocks  were  large  and  numerous,  and  pre- 
vented us  from  accomplishing  more  than  eighteen 
wersts.  Two  of  our  drivers  лѵеге  hurt  by  the  over- 
setting of  their  sledges,  and  one  of  our  best  dogs 
was  killed  : besides  which,  we  met  with  many  other 
accidents,  and  on  the  4th  of  April,  after  travelling 
thirteen  wersts,  were  obliged  to  halt  to  repair  our 
sledges.  The  runners  of  three  of  them  had  been 
broken  among  the  hummocks,  and  were  replaced  by 


208  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


some  of  the  birch-wood  we  carried  with  us,  which 
was  found  very  useful  for  this  purpose. 

After  putting  things  in  the  best  order  we  could,  we 
continued  our  route  on  the  5th  of  April.  It  led  across 
a plain  of  ice  covered  with  crystals  of  salt.  We 
saw  a seal  lying  near  a hole  in  the  ice,  but  he  escaped 
us.  The  ice  we  found  to  be  nearly  four  feet  thick, 
the  depth  of  water  twelve  fathoms,  and  the  bottom 
greenish  mud.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was 
+29°,  while  that  of  the  air  was  +25°,  and  a current 
was  setting  from  W.N.W.  to  E.S.E. 

After  a march  of  nineteen  wersts  we  halted  for 
the  night,  and  kept  a more  careful  watch  than 
usual,  as  we  had  seen  numerous  tracks  of  stone- 
foxes  and  bears,  and  wished  to  avoid  a nocturnal  sur- 
prise by  the  latter.  During  the  day  we  had  a fresh 
breeze  from  the  east,  accompanied  by  a thick  fog, 
which  thoroughly  wet  our  tent  and  clothes,  and  cov- 
ered them  with  rime. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  6th  of  April,  after  toiling 
through  thirty  wersts,  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
point  where  M.  Kosmin  and  myself  had  turned  back 
on  the  28th  of  March,  so  that  it  had  taken  seven 
days  to  accomplish  the  distance  which  we  had  then 
travelled  in  2i-  days  when  our  sledges  were  lighter. 
Before  halting  for  the  night  we  proceeded  9^  wersts 
farther.  The  hummocks  had  lately  increased  both 
in  number  and  height,  many  of  them  being  of  the 
class  of  old  hummocks,  and  very  difficult  to  pass, 
chiefly  on  account  of  the  deep  snow  which  filled 
the  intervals  between  them.  The  exertions  of  the 
sledge-drivers  in  particular  were  very  great.  Our 
interpreter  was  again  attacked  by  severe  cramp  in 
the  stomach ; and  being  unable  to  procure  for  him 
any  other  assistance  than  the  lancet  of  the  Jukahir, 
to  which  it  did  not  appear  prudent  to  resort  a sec- 
ond time,  we  felt  very  anxious  about  him.  It  was, 
moreover,  evident,  that  while  we  could  do  nothing 
to  relieve  him,  he  would  probably  cause  us  long  and 


MORE  HUMMOCKS. 


209 


frequent  delays.  Under  all  the  circumstances,  I 
determined  on  sending  him  back  to  the  Kolyma, 
though  we  were  then  250  wersts  from  land,  and  390 
worsts  from  the  nearest  inhabited  place.  We  could 
ill  spare  either  men  or  dogs ; but  it  appeared  the 
least  evil  to  send  away  the  patient,  with  two  compan- 
ions to  take  care  of  him,  on  one  of  the  best  sledges, 
drawn  by  twenty-four  instead  of  twelve  dogs.  Part- 
ing with  this  double  team  left  one  of  our  sledges 
without  any  dogs  ; and  I had  it  broken  up,  and  made 
use  of  the  pieces  to  repair  the  others.  We  buri- 
ed the  stores  we  were  unable  to  carry  in  the  ice 
against  our  return,  and  also  such  other  articles  as 
we  thought  it  possible  to  dispense  with.  Our  load 
was  still  farther  lightened  by  giving  up  our  tent  to 
the  returning  sledge  for  the  use  of  the  sick  man, 
we  ourselves  retaining  only  two  pologi^  or  small  sum- 
mer travelling-tents.  Our  party  was  now  reduced 
to  five  persons  with  three  sledges. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  April  a breeze  from 
the  north  dispersed  the  thick  mist  which  had  gath- 
ered round  us  the  night  before,  but  it  returned  in  the 
afternoon;  the  temperature  was  -f-2U. 

After  only  three  wersts  of  tolerably  smooth  trav- 
elling, we  found  ourselves  in  a fresh  labyrinth  of 
hummocks.  In  vain  we  looked  from  the  summit  of 
the  highest  for  some  outlet,  and  were  obliged  to 
open  a path  for  ourselves  by  means  of  crowbars. 
Five  hours  of  incessant  toil  brought  us  through  the 
worst  difficulties,  and  we  were  able  to  advance  thir- 
teen wersts  farther,  still  among  hummocks  of  differ- 
ent sizes,  partly  of  old  and  partly  of  recent  forma- 
tion : two  of  the  sledges  were  much  injured,  in 
consequence  of  which  I did  not  arrive  at  the  little 
camp  till  late  in  the  night. 

On  the  8th  wx  travelled  two  wersts  among  crowd- 
ed hummocks,  and  five  and  a half  wersts  over  a flat 
surface  covered  with  salt-crystals,  bounded  on  the 
north  by  masses  of  ice  recently  thrown  up,  runninp^ 
S 2 


210  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

from  east  to  west.  We  had  an  extensive  pros- 
pect from  their  summits.  To  the  north  we  saw  sev- 
eral parallel  ranges  of  newly-formed  hummocks  of 
a greenish  colour : they  resembled  the  towering 
waves  of  the  ocean  when  violently  agitated  by  a 
storm.  To  the  south,  beyond  the  flat  surface  we 
had  crossed,  and  which  looked  like  a wide  river  run- 
ning between  clifls  of  ice,  we  discovered  high  snow- 
covered  hummocks  of  old  formation,  which  by  their 
inequalities  gave  to  that  part  of  the  sea  the  appear- 
ance of  a country  intersected  by  deep  hollows  and 
ravines. 

The  contrast  between  the  southern  old  hummocks 
and  the  northern  recent  ones  was  too  striking  to 
leave  any  doubt  that  we  had  reached  the  extreme 
limit  of  the  shore-ice  of  the  continent,  and  that  we 
had  before  us  an  open  sea  not  bounded  by  land  to  the 
north,  at  least  within  a considerable  distance.  We 
passed  two  groups  of  recent  hummocks,  and  halt- 
ed for  the  night  among  a third  group.  We  had 
met  with  several  wide  fissures,  where  we  found 
14y  fathoms,  and  a bottom  of  green  mud.  W’^e 
again  buried  part  of  our  provisions,  that  we  might 
be  able  to  press  forward  to  the  north  more  rapidly. 

On  the  9th  of  April  we  had  a clear  sky,  a mod- 
erate breeze  from  the  east,  and  a temperature  of  -j- 
9*^.  Our  noon  observation  gave  the  latitude  71° 
50',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  was  3°  20'  E.  of 
the  greater  Baranow  Rock : variation  18i°  E. 

After  crossing  the  ridge  behind  which  we  had 
passed  the  night,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst 
of  one  of  the  wildest  groups  of  hummocks  we  had 
ever  seen,  and  among  which,  after  working  seven 
hours  with  crowbars,  we  had  advanced  only  three 
wersts.  As  there  appeared  to  be  no  end  to  our 
labour  in  this  chaos  of  ice,  and  as  the  exhausted 
state  of  the  dogs  and  the  dilapidated  condition  of 
the  sledges  threatened  us  daily  with  their  entire 
loss,  I held  a council  with  the  two  officers  who  ac- 


DISCOVERY  OF  OPEN  WATER. 


211 


companied  me,  requesting  them  to  give  me  their 
opinion  whether,  under  present  circumstances,  they 
saw  any  possibility  of  our  making  any  material  ad- 
vance. They  both  said  that,  even  if  we  should  not 
be  stopped  by  open  water,  still,  with  our  dogs  so 
worn  out,  we  could  scarcely  hope  to  accomplish 
thirty  wersts  in  a week  across  these  rugged  hum- 
mocks. 

Perfectly  coinciding  in  their  opinion,  I determined 
to  return.  But  that  we  might  have  nothing  with 
which  to  reproach  ourselves,  I sent  forward  M.  Ma- 
tiuschkin,  on  whose  zeal  and  fidelity  I had  the  most 
complete  reliance,  in  a light  sledge,  with  two  com- 
panions, to  examine  the  ice  to  the  north,  in  order  to 
determine  with  certainty  if  it  were  wholly  impossi- 
ble for  us  to  proceed  farther.  He  started  on  the 
10th  of  April : we  had  had  a moderate  breeze  during 
the  night,  and  heard  distinctly  the  sound  of  the 
ice-fields  breaking  up.  In  the  morning  there  v,^as  a 
brisk  breeze  from  the  north,  and  the  thermometer 
stood  at  -1-14°. 

While  M.  Matiuschkin  was  absent,  I ascertained 
the  latitude  to  be  71°  52',  and  the  variation  18°  45' 
E.  Our  longitude  by  reckoning  was  3°  23'  E.  of 
the  Baranow.  We  had  fourteen  fathoms  and  a half 
water,  with  green  mud. 

At  the  end  of  six  hours  M.  Matiuschkin  returned. 
He  had  been  obliged  to  pass  over  high  and  very  dif- 
ficult hummocks,  and  to  cross  wide  fissures ; not- 
withstanding which,  by  the  lightness  of  his  sledge  he 
had  been  enabled  to  accomplish  ten  wersts  in  a due 
north  direction,  when  all  farther  advance  was  stop- 
ped by  the  complete  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  and  a 
close  approach  to  the  open  water.  He  had  beheld 
the  icy  sea  breaking  its  fetters : enormous  fields  of 
ice,  raised  by  the  waves  into  an  almost  vertical 
position,  driven  against  each  other  with  a tremen- 
dous crash,  pressed  downward  by  the  force  of  the 
foaming  billows,  and  reappearing  again  on  the  sur- 


212  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

face,  covered  with  the  torn-up  green  mud  лѵЬісЬ 
everywhere  here  forms  the  bottom,  and  which  we 
had  so  often  seen  on  the  highest  hummocks.  On 
his  return,  M.  Maliuschkin  found  great  part  of  the 
track  he  had  passed  over  already  gone,  and  large 
spaces  which  he  had  just  traversed  now  covered 
with  water. 

All  idea  of  proceeding  farther  was  therefore  at  an 
end,  and  it  was  necessary  to  hasten  back  to  our  last 
deposite  of  provisions,  that  we  might  secure  them 
before  they  were  reached  by  the  breaking  up  of  the 
ice.  Having  replaced  them  in  the  sledges,  we  were 
so  fortunate  as  to  find  a somewhat  less  difficult  route, 
by  which  we  accomplished  sixteen  wersts  in  a W.N. 
W.  direction.  We  saw  numerous  tracks  of  bears 
going  northward,  probably  to  seek  for  seals  among 
the  new  openings  in  the  ice.  On  the  11th  of  April 
we  had  a moderate  fall  of  snow : the  observed  lati- 
tude of  our  halting- place  was  71°  54',  and  its  longitude 
by  reckoning  2°  52'  east  of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock. 

Our  W.N.  W.  course  soon  brought  us  again  among 
old  hummocks,  and,  to  avoid  them  as  much  as  possi- 
ble, we  proposed  turning  to  the  N.E  , but  we  first 
ascended  one  of  them,  fifteen  fathoms  in  height,  to 
observe  the  state  of  the  ice  in  that  quarter.  As  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach,  we  saw  nothing  but  new  and 
impassable  hummocks,  while  a sound  resembling 
the  rolling  of  distant  thunder,  and  numerous  columns 
of  dark  blue  vapour,  ascending  at  various  points 
from  N.E.  to  N.W.,  but  too  clearly  indicated  that 
the  work  of  disruption  was  everywhere  going  on. 
We  had  here  an  opportunity  of  observing,  that  where 
the  ice  cracks,  even  in  places  where  it  is  thick  and 
solid,  evaporation  immediately  ensues,  which  is 
more  or  less  dense  to  the  view,  according  to  the 
temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  and  usually  show^s 
itself  in  the  form  of  vertically  ascending  columns 
of  a dark  hue.  As  we  could  not  advance  to  the  N. 
E.,  we  held  our  course  a little  farther  to  the  west, 


NO  SIGNS  OF  LAND  TO  THE  NORTH.  213 

and  halted  twenty-four  wersts  from  our  last  night’s 
resting-place.  The  warmth  of  the  day  had  melted 
the  train  oil,  so  that  we  had  lost  the  greater  part  of 
it ; and  there  was  so  little  wood  left  that  we  could 
only  allow  ourselves  tea  and  cooking  once  a day, 
and  had  to  be  contented  at  other  times  with  frozen 
fish,  and  with  snow  to  quench  our  thirst. 

On  the  12th  I sent  M.  Matiuschkin  to  examine 
whether  it  would  not  be  possible  for  us  to  penetrate 
through  the  old  hummocks  to  the  north  ; and,  at  the 
end  of  three  hours,  he  returned  and  reported  that  it 
would  be  very  difficult,  but  not  altogether  impossible. 
We  accordingly  made  the  attempt,  but  had  advan- 
ced only  six  wersts  when  we  came  to  very  thin 
ice,  which  was  broken  in  many  places,  and  covered 
with  salt  water.  These  unequivocal  indications  of 
an  approaching  general  break-up  warned  us  to  pro- 
ceed no  farther,  especially  as  the  north  wind  contin- 
ued to  increase.  The  depth  of  the  sea  was  here 
fourteen  and  a half  fathoms,  and  the  bottom  no  lon- 
ger green  mud  as  before,  but  gravel. 

We  were  now  in  72°  2'  latitude,  and  262  wersts 
in  a straight  line  from  the  nearest  land,  г.  e.,  the 
greater  Baranow  Rock.  Throughout  the  whole  ex- 
tent we  had  traversed  in  so  many  different  directions, 
the  nature  of  the  ice  and  the  increasing  depth  of 
the  sea  indicated  our  greater  distance  from  the  con- 
tinent, and  we  might  presume  with  much  probabili- 
ty that,  if  any  considerable  land  existed  to  the  north 
of  us,  we  had,  at  the  utmost,  travelled  over  no  more 
than  half  the  interval  which  separates  it  from  Sibe- 
ria. It  was  not  from  this  consideration,  however, 
nor  from  any  but  that  of  actual  physical  impossibil- 
ity, that  we  now  at  last  relinquished  the  attempt  to 
proceed  farther  northward,  and  sought,  instead,  to 
reach  the  meridian  of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  due  north 
of  which  the  problematical  land  was  supposed  to  be 
situated,  according  to  my  instructions.  We  there- 
fore retraced  our  steps,  and  slept  at  the  spot  where 
we  had  halted  on  the  10th  of  April. 


214  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

On  the  13th  vve  reached  the  deposite  of  provisions 
лѵе  had  formed  on  the  6th.  We  saw  here  numerous 
tracks  of  bears,  which  had  probably  been  attracted 
by  the  smell,  but  all  their  attempts  to  break  through 
the  covering  of  ice  had  failed.  On  opening  our 
crypt  with  crowbars,  we  found  the  hollow  filled 
with  water  which  had  come  up  through  a recent 
crack  in  the  bottom ; but,  fortunately,  the  crevice  was 
small,  and,  though  the  fish  was  wet  through,  none 
of  it  had  been  lost.  We  halted  the  next  day  to  dry 
our  provisions  as  well  as  we  could,  and  to  rest  our 
exhausted  dogs. 

On  the  15th  we  resumed  our  journey,  with  a light 
breeze  from  the  N.N.E.,  the  thermometer  at  — 1°. 
We  travelled  thirty-six  wersts  in  an  E.S.E.  direc- 
tion, along  a kind  of  path  between  two  rows  of 
large  hummocks  ; but  at  last  the  masses  of  ice 
(which  were  in  many  places  covered  with  earth)  ap- 
proached closer  together,  and  the  narrow  ravines 
between  them  were  filled  with  such  deep  snow  that 
both  men  and  dogs  were  buried  in  it,  and,  after  extri- 
cating ourselves,  we  were  obliged  to  retrace  our 
steps  for  a short  distance.  W^e  felt  the  cold  very 
much  during  the  night,  as  the  temperature  was 
— 13°,  and  we  had  no  fire. 

On  the  16th  we  continued  our  course  to  the  east- 
ward, with  clear,  calm  weather.  A good  observa- 
tion at  noon  gave  our  latitude  71o  30',  and  our  lon- 
gitude by  reckoning  was  3^  54'  east  of  the  greater 
Baranow  Rock.  In  spite  of  deep  snow  and  other 
difficulties,  we  accomplished  thirty  wersts. 

Although  the  temperature  was  not  lower  than 
— 9°  on  the  morning  of  the  17th,  a piercing  S.W. 
wind  and  violent  snowdrift  obliged  us  to  halt  during 
the  day.  At  noon  we  availed  ourselves  of  a favour- 
able moment,  when  the  sun  appeared  between  the 
clouds,  to  obtain  an  observation,  which  gave  our  lat- 
itude 710  18',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  was  4° 
4'  E.  of  the  greater  Baranow,  the  variation  beiiv 
18°  E. 


KILLING  A BEAR. 


215 


On  the  18th  the  Storni  subsided,  and  we  continued 
our  route  across  old  hummocks,  covered  in  many 
places  with  green  mud.  When  we  had  gone  eigh- 
teen wersts  we  encountered  two  bears,  which  we 
chased,  not  only  with  no  advantage,  but  with  much 
positive  damage,  besides  loss  of  time.  We  killed 
one  of  them,  it  is  true  ; but  he  was  so  thin,  and  his 
flesh  so  hard,  that  it  was  wholly  useless  : several  of 
our  dogs  were  wounded  ; we  lost  a great  part  of  the 
day,  and  encamped  for  the  night  much  wearied  by 
the  pursuit.  During  the  night  we  saw  signs  of  re- 
turning spring,  in  a large  flight  of  black  ducks  {anas 
nigra)  proceeding  to  the  N.W.  : the  floating  ice  to 
the  north  of  Siberia  is  often  covered  with  these 
birds. 

On  the  19th  our  observed  latitude  was  71°  18',  and 
our  longitude  by  reckoning  4°  36'  E.  of  the  greater 
Baranow  Rock.  A violent  storm  from  the  N.  W.,  ac- 
companied by  a heavy  snowdrift,  obliged  us  to  halt 
at  noon  for  the  rest  of  the  day.  The  next  morning, 
although  the  wind  and  snow  had  not  ceased,  we 
continued  our  journey,  and  three  wersts  from  our 
halting-place  found  a tolerably  smooth  path,  bound- 
ed to  the  north  by  hummocks  running  in  a S.S.E. 
direction. 

We  sounded  in  a cleft  which  was  only  covered  by 
a thin  crust  of  ice,  and  found  twenty-one  fathoms, 
with  green  mud,  and  a rather  strong  current  running 
E.S.E.  In  the  northeastern  horizon  there  were 
columns  of  dark  blue  vapour,  similar  to  those  which 
we  had  noticed  several  times  before  when  the  ice 
was  separating.  We  had  this  day  travelled  thirty- 
nine  wersts,  and  we  halted  for  the  night  under  the 
shelter  of  a large  ridge  formed  by  the  junction  of 
old  and  recent  hummocks,  the  latter  extending  east- 
ward as  far  as  the  horizon. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  April,  MM. 
Matiuschkin  and  Kosmin  went  forward  in  a light 
sledge  to  seek  for  the  best  route  towards  the  east ; 


216  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


but,  after  passing  over  rugged  hummocks  with  great 
eifort  for  a single  werst  to  the  N.N.E.,  they  came 
to  a space  of  open  water  at  least  two  wersts  across. 
This  opening  extended  from  E.S.E.  to  W.N.W.  be- 
yond the  visible  horizon ; the  ice  beyond  it  appear- 
ed to  be  intersected  by  numerous  fissures,  and  from 
the  summit  of  a hummock  they  clearly  saw  exten- 
sive open  water,  with  fields  of  thin  ice  drifting  to 
the  E.S.E.  About  a fathom  beneath  the  surface 
they  found  a strong  current  setting  to  the  S.E.  : the 
depth  of  the  sea  was  ІѲ^-  fathoms,  and  the  bottom 
green  mud. 

As  the  open  water  made  it  out  of  the  question 
to  attempt  proceeding  in  that  direction,  лѵе  proceed- 
ed towards  the  meridian  of  Cape  Schelagskoj  in  a 
S.S.E.  direction,  where  the  old  hummocks  offered 
rather  fewer  difficulties  than  the  new  ones : we  trav- 
elled the  whole  night,  but  the  deep  snow  prevented 
us  from  accomplishing  more  than  twenty-seven 
wersts. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  we  were  surrounded 
by  a thick  fog,  which  concealed  even  the  nearest 
objects.  When  it  cleared  we  saw  plainly  to  the 
south  the  black,  bluff  rocks  of  Cape  Schelagskoj 
peering  above  the  horizon.  The  southeastern  point 
of  the  coast  bore  S.  45^  E.,  the  middle  summit  S. 
400  E.,  and  the  southwestern  point  of  the  promonto- 
ry, distant  fifty  miles  or  eighty-seven  wersts,  bore 
S.  ЗЗ""  E. 

At  P.M.  we  found  the  variation  18°  49'  E.  Our 
noon  observation  gave  the  latitude  70°  53',  and  the 
longitude,  derived  from  the  bearings  of  the  land,  was 
6°  40'  east  of  the  greater  Baranow.  Our  reckoning 
v/as  in  error  24',  corresponding  to  an  actual  distance 
of  eight  miles.  An  observation  of  the  dip,  in  which 
the  poles  of  the  needle  were  not  reversed,  gave  79° 
57'  N. 

The  constantly-increasing  depth  of  the  sea,  and 
the  numerous  spaces  of  open  лѵаіег,  so  little  agreed 


POSSIBLE  EXISTENCE  OF  POLAR  LAND.  217 

with  the  vicinity  of  the  continent,  that  if  we  had  not 
been  assured  of  the  fact  by  the  evidence  of  our  sen- 
ses, we  could  hardly  have  imagined  that  we  were 
within  ninety  wersts  of  the  mainland.  This  remark 
leads  to  the  inference  that  our  hitherto  fruitless  en- 
deavours to  find  the  supposed  Polar  land  may,  aftei 
all,  prove  nothing  against  its  existence  : strictly 
speaking,  they  only  prove  that,  notwithstanding  all 
our  efforts,  it  was  found  impossible  by  us  to  reach 
it  ; but  whether  the  insurmountable  obstacles  which 
stopped  our  progress  would  always  present  them- 
selves, I cannot  venture  to  decide.  Two  circum- 
stances should  be  here  noticed  : first,  although  in 
this  vicinity  we  met  with  many  recent  fractures, 
the  ice  itself  was  everywhere  thick,  and  covered 
with  solid  snow,  whereas  farther  north  it  was  very 
thin,  and  had  but  little  snow  on  its  surface  : second, 
north  winds  are  always  damp  winds ; and  both 
these  circumstances  indicate  that  the  general  state 
of  the  sea  to  the  north  differs  materially  from  its 
condition  in  the  vicinity  of  the  continent. 

Towards  evening  a fresh  S.S.W.  wind  covered 
the  sky  with  clouds.  The  state  of  the  ice  induced 
us  to  take  a S.S.E.  course  ; and  on  our  way  we 
found  a piece  of  half-decayed  firewood,  which  was 
a very  acceptable  addition  to  our  scanty  stock  of 
fuel.  After  travelling  nineteen  wersts,  our  farther 
progress  in  this  direction  was  stopped  by  a mass  of 
impassable  hummocks,  which  extended  to  Cape 
Schelagskoj.  The  rocks  of  the  cape  were  clearly 
distinguishable  : their  outer  point  bore  S.  30°  E. 
Although  the  horizon  was  remarkably  clear,  we 
could  not  discover  any  indications  of  land  either  to 
the  east  or  to  the  north.  Assuming  that  any  land 
which  was  not  extremely  low  must  have  been  visi- 
ble at  a distance  of  fifty  wersts,  and  that  we  were 
eighty  wersts  from  Cape  Schelagskoj,  it  is  manifest 
that  in  the  meridian  of  that  cape  no  land  exists  for 
130  wersts  to  the  northward  of  it ; and  we  have  ah 
T 


218  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ready  seen  that  there  is  no  land  for  300  wersts  north 
of  the  greater  Baranow  Rock. 

Having  food  for  our  dogs  for  only  four  days  longer, 
and  being  still  200  wersts  from  our  deposite  of  pro- 
visions, the  season  also  being  very  far  advanced,  we 
determined  to  return  without  delay,  and  on  the  23d 
of  April  travelled  twenty-six  wersts  in  a westerly 
direction,  over  hummocks  of  old  ice  and  through 
loose  snow.  Our  noon  observation  gave  the  lati- 
tude 70^^  50',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  was  2° 
8'  W.  of  Cape  Schelagskoj. 

In  the  afternoon  we  saw  to  the  south  a continu- 
ous low  coast,  apparently  elevated  above  the  true 
horizon.  We  were  opposite  to  Sand  Cape,  but,  as 
the  interval  which  separated  us  from  the  coast  was 
not  less  than  ninety-eight  wersts,  this  effect  must 
have  been  produced  by  the  strong  refraction  of  these 
regions,  which  often  leads  to  the  discovery  of  re- 
mote objects.  On  the  24th  we  travelled  thirty-five 
wersts,  meeting  with  frequent  tracks  of  bears  and 
stone-foxes. 

On  the  25th,  the  latitude  by  our  noon  observation 
was  70°  54',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  3°  12' 
W.  of  Cape  Schelagskoj  : hummocks  and  loose 
snow  prevented  us  from  accomplishing  more  than 
thirty-eight  wersts.  Large  flights  of  black  ducks 
passed  over  us  to  the  westward. 

On  the  20th,  though  the  travelling  was  still  diffi- 
cult, we  made  forty-three  wersts  : a piece  of  fresh 
aspen-wood  was  picked  up  near  our  halting-place. 
Our  provisions  were  now  quite  exhausted,  and  the 
drivers  were  very  uneasy  about  the  dogs,  which 
lose  their  strength  in  a very  short  time  after  their 
food  fails.  But  in  reliance  on  our  reckoning,  by 
which  we  could  not  be  more  than  one  day’s  jour- 
ney from  our  deposite,  we  pushed  on  cheerfully  on 
the  27th,  over  a less  difficult  route  than  heretofore, 
and  arrived  at  the  spot  in  the  evening,  after  a march 
of  forty  wersts.  Ten  wersts  before  reaching  it  we 


RETURN  TO  LAND. 


219 


came  upon  the  old  track  of  M.  Matiuschkin’s  sledge. 
The  29th  was  a day  of  rest  to  our  dogs  and  of  re- 
freshment for  ourselves,  enhanced  by  finding  a large 
piece  of  drift  pine-wood,  which  enabled  us  to  make 
a good  fire.  The  marks  of  teeth  and  claws  about 
the  block  of  ice,  and  the  torn-up  snow,  showed  con- 
clusively that,  during  our  twenty-eight  days’  ab- 
sence, the  bears  had  made  many  desperate  attempts 
on  our  storehouse,  but  happily  without  success  : we 
found  everything  uninjured.  As  the  lateness  of  the 
season,  the  low  state  of  our  provisions,  and  the  di- 
lapidated condition  of  our  sledges  forbade  any  con- 
tinuation of  our  journey,  I thought  it  best  to  return 
to  Kolymsk  by  the  track  we  had  already  travelled  ; 
and  this  had  been  so  much  improved  by  the  consoli- 
dation of  the  loose  snow,  that  we  made  fifty-five 
wersts  on  the  29th,  fifty  wersts  on  the  30th,  and 
reached  the  coast  on  the  evening  of  the  1st  of  May, 
where  we  halted  for  the  night,  half  w^ay  between 
the  greater  and  lesser  Baraiiow  Rocks. 

Weary  as  we  were,  we  rose  very  early  the  next 
morning,  to  enjoy  the  long-unseen  sight  of  the 
brown  earth.  The  gray  moss,  the  low,  leafless 
bushes,  and  the  notes  of  the  few  birds,  all  told  of 
land,  of  spring,  and  of  a return  to  animated  nature ; 
and  we  congratulated  each  other  on  our  toils  and 
privations  being  over,  at  least  for  the  present. 

It  is  with  the  warmest  satisfaction  that  I here  re- 
cord my  grateful  thanks  to  my  two  excellent  com- 
panions, MM.  Matiuschkin  and  Kosmin,  for  their 
zealous  support  throughout  the  difficulties  of  the 
journey  we  had  just  completed,  during  which  we 
all  had  frequently  to  join  in  dragging  the  sledges 
through  nearly  bottomless  snow  and  over  perpen- 
dicular cliffs  of  ice  ; and  it  was  doubtless,  in  a great 
measure,  owing  to  their  example  that  our  sledge- 
drivers  encountered  so  many  toils,  privations,  and 
dangers  cheerfully  and  without  a murmur. 

On  the  4th  of  May  we  arrived  at  Pochodsk,  where 


220  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

a new  and  joyful  surprise  awaited  me.  My  friend 
and  brother-officer,  Lieutenant  Anjou,  had  just  ar- 
rived from  the  island  of  New-Siberia  with  the  expe- 
dition under  his  command,  proposing  to  visit  Nishne 
Kolymsk,  and  to  return  along  the  coast  to  the  Jana. 
But  our  happiness  in  meeting  thus  unexpectedly  in 
these  remote  regions  could  not  but  be  materially 
alloyed  by  the  sight  of  the  suffering  and  misery 
which  surrounded  us.  Six  half-starved  Tungusian 
families,  urged  by  despair,  had  exerted  the  last  rem- 
nant of  their  failing  strength  to  reach  this  place, 
where  they  found  the  few  inhabitants  in  a scarcely 
less  deplorable  condition,  their  stores  being  quite  con- 
sumed, and  they  themselves  supporting  life  as  well 
as  they  could  on  remnants  of  bones  and  skins,  until 
the  approaching  spring  should  bring  them  the  anx- 
iously-looked-for  relief.  We  divided  among  them 
all  that  remained  of  our  provisions,  and  had  reason 
to  hope  that  this  assistance  would  save  the  lives  of 
several. 

On  the  5th  of  May  we  reached  Nishne  Kolymsk, 
after  an  absence  of  fifty-seven  days,  in  which  time 
we  had  travelled  1355  wersts.  I found  here  new  or- 
ders from  the  governor-general  of  Siberia  in  refer- 
ence to  our  employments  for  the  present  year.  Our 
worthy  companion.  Dr.  Kyber,  had  only  partially 
recovered,  and  was  suffering  with  his  usual  patience 
and  cheerffilness.  The  town  was  empty,  all  the  in- 
habitants having  gone  away  to  their  summer  em- 
ployments except  the  invalid  Cossack,  who  regular- 
ly remains  on  guard,  and  our  old  housekeeper. 

On  the  10th  of  May  the  first  rain  fell ; but  sum- 
mer had  not  yet  fairly  arrived,  and  we  had  snow  re- 
peatedly afterward.  About  the  17th  fresh  grass 
began  to  appear  on  the  sheltered  banks,  and  on  the 
22d  the  ice,  which  had  covered  the  river  for  259 
days,  broke  up.  On  the  26th  of  May  the  usual  in- 
undation followed,  forcing  us  to  take  refuge,  with  all 
otir  goods,  on  the  flat  roofs  of  the  houses,  there  to 


OVERFLOWING  OF  THE  RIVER. 


221 


await  the  termination  of  the  flood.  To  piovide 
against  cases  which  sometimes  occur,  of  the  build- 
ings being  materially  injured  by  drifting  masses  of 
ice,  or  of  the  inundation  reaching  the  roof,  we  had 
boats  at  hand  to  enable  us  to  retire,  if  needful,  to 
the  Pantelejew  Mountain.  The  inhabitants  always 
take  care,  before  leaving  the  place,  to  remove  all 
their  portable  goods  to  the  roofs  of  their  houses, 
which  certainly  present  a singular  aspect,  being  cov- 
ered with  sledges,  chests,  casks,  and  household 
utensils  of  every  kind.  On  the  31st  of  May  the 
water  began  to  subside,  and  we  were  soon  afterward 
able  to  return  to  our  dwellings ; but,  in  spite  of  the 
constant  fires  which  we  kept  up,  it  was  long  before 
we  got  rid  of  the  cold,  damp  atmosphere  proceeding 
from  the  walls,  which  had  been  thoroughly  satura- 
ted with  moisture. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

M.  Matiuschkin’s  Journey  across  the  Eastern  Tundra  in  the 
Summer  of  1822.-^ 


I PARTED  from  M.  Wrangell  at  the  village  of  Pan- 
telejewka  on  the  1st  of  July,  in  company  with  our 
former  travelling  companion  and  friend,  M.  Beresh- 
noi,  who  was  going  to  Tschaun  Bay.  His  objects 
were  to  trade  with  the  Tschuktschi  and  to  seek  for 
mammoth  bones  ; mine  was  to  execute  the  charge 
intrusted  to  me  by  the  commander  of  the  expedition, 

* While  M.  Matiuschkin  was  engaged  in  examining  the  East- 
ern Tundra,  M . Wrangell  made  a journey  through  the  Stony  Tun- 
dra. These  gloomy  wastes  are  so  uniform  in  their  character 
that  more  than  one  description  of  them  was  thought  to  be  need- 
less, and  that  by  M.  Matiuschkin  has  been  selected,  as  being  the 
most  interesting  of  the  two.— Am.  Ed. 

T 2 


222  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

of  examining  and  surveying  the  district  over  which 
we  were  to  travel.  It  was  agreed  that  we  should 
go  round  by  Ostrownoje,  where  we  expected  to  find 
a Tschuktschi  interpreter. 

After  crossing  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Pantele- 
jewka,  we  loaded  and  mounted  our  horses,  and  be- 
gan our  journey  by  following  for  three  wersts  a 
narrow  path  along  the  mountain-side  ; then  we  turn- 
ed to  the  east  to  avoid  two  rivers,  which  were  so 
swollen  by  the  heavy  rains  which  had  lately  fallen 
that  we  could  not  hope  to  be  able  to  ford  them.  We 
rode  till  sunset  over  rocky  hills  clothed  with  wood, 
and  marshy  valleys  intersected  by  streams,  and 
crossed  by  twilight  the  Nuptschag,  which  rises  in 
the  White  Rocks,  and  joins  the  Pantelejewka  eight 
or  ten  wersts  above  the  village  which  we  had  left. 
The  traces  of  the  storm  of  the  previous  day  were 
everywhere  visible,  and  our  way  was  frequently  im- 
peded by  the  uprooted  trees  which  lay  across  our 
path.  We  pitched  our  tent  at  night,  and  the  horses 
were  allowed  to  graze. 

On  the  2d  of  July  the  wood  became  gradually 
smaller  and  more  scattered  as  we  approached  the 
White  Rocks,  until  there  were  only  low  bushes, 
with  occasional  stems  of  larch-trees  which  had  been 
burned.  The  marshy  ground  was  overgrown  with 
moss,  and  intersected  in  every  direction  by  small 
brooks.  There  were  here  many  marsh-birds,  and  it 
is  the  most  northern  station  at  which  we  saw  them. 
As  we  advanced,  both  vegetable  and  animal  life  be- 
came more  rare,  except  the  immense  swarms  of 
moschetoes,  which  continued  to  torment  both  our- 
selves and  our  poor  horses  dreadfully.  We  hoped 
to  escape  them  by  halting  for  the  night  on  a barren 
elevation,  exposed  on  every  side  to  the  wind,  but, 
unfortunately,  it  fell  calm  : it  was  in  vain  that  we 
crept  under  horsehair  nets,  or  surrounded  ourselves 
with  thick  and  suffocating  smoke  from  the  smoulder- 
ing heaps  of  moss  and  leaves  ; nothing  availed,  un- 


mammoth’s  tusk. 


223 


til  the  increasing  cold  of  the  night  brought  us  a short 
respite  ; but,  as  soon  as  the  beams  of  the  morning  sun 
were  felt,  our  tormentors  renewed  their  attacks. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  July  we  left  the 
White  Rocks,  which  gradually  diminished  in  height 
towards  the  east,  and  took  a southerly  course  across 
a hilly  country  watered  by  several  streams.  At 
first  we  met  only  with  bushes ; but  the  woods  soon 
became  so  thick  that  we  had  great  difficulty  in  ma- 
king our  way  through  them.  W^e  could  not  follow 
any  one  of  the  rivers,  because,  though  they  all  flow 
towards  the  Aniuj,  they  enter  it  a long  way  to  the 
Avestward,  which  would  have  taken  us  quite  out  of 
our  course.  We  availed  ourselves  as  far  as  possi- 
ble of  the  paths  which  the  reindeer  had  opened  in 
their  migration. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  saw  above 
the  trees  the  summits  of  the  two  mountains  Krugi 
and  Nugpol,  which  are  near  the  Aniuj,  and  between 
which  we  were  to  pass  to  reach  that  stream.  The 
forest,  apparently  hitherto  untrodden  by  any  human 
foot,  became  still  denser  and  more  difficult  to  trav- 
erse, from  the  tangled  roots  and  branches  of  num- 
bers of  uprooted  trees.  We  had  frequently  to  open 
a path  with  hatchets,  and  sometimes  could  not  ad- 
vance more  than  half  a werst  in  the  course  of  an 
hour.  The  reindeer  tracks,  which  had  hitherto 
befriended  us,  now  ceased,  and  we  had  also  many 
streams  to  cross : late  in  the  evening  we  emerged 
from  the  wood  on  a treeless  plain,  extending  from 
east  to  west,  on  which  the  Krugi  Mountain  stands ; 
we  rode  on  to  the  east,  and  slept  among  some  low, 
woody  hills  surrounding  the  Nugpol  Mountain. 

In  one  of  the  brooks  which  we  crossed  we  found 
a very  fine  mammoth’s  tusk,  which  might  weigh  2} 
pood  (100  lbs.),  and  the  value  of  which  M.  Beresh- 
noi  said  would  fully  compensate  him  for  all  his  ex- 
penses and  trouble  hitherto.  Unfortunately,  on  a 
closer  examination,  we  found  that  the  greater  part  ^ 


224  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

the  tusk  was  so  firmly  fixed  in  the  frozen  bed  of  the 
stream,  that  all  our  efforts  to  get  it  out  failed ; and 
not  having  with  us  any  pointed  iron  crowbars,  the 
prize  had  to  be  left  behind,  to  the  great  regret  of  the 
whole  party. 

After  riding  six  wersts  on  the  morning  of  the  5th, 
we  arrived  at  the  summer  dwelling  of  a .Tukahir 
family  at  the  foot  of  the  Nugpol  Mountain,  and  on 
the  bank  of  the  Aniuj  River.  By  their  advice  we 
were  ferried  by  them  across  the  river,  as  they  as- 
sured us  that  the  forests  on  the  north  side  were  ab- 
solutely impenetrable ; and  that,  in  the  entire  absence 
of  any  assistance  from  men  or  boats,  we  should  find 
great  difficulty  in  crossing  the  Poginden,  which  falls 
into  the  Aniuj  farther  on. 

We  followed  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  first 
through  trees  and  then  over  a marsh,  which  delay- 
ed us  so  much  that  we  could  only  accomplish  twenty- 
five  wersts  in  the  course  of  the  day.  We  passed 
the  night  at  a small  Tschuwanzian  settlement,  to 
reach  which  we  crossed  the  river.  These  poor  peo- 
ple were  suffering  terribly  from  hunger ; they  had 
no  fishing-nets,  and  with  their  lines  and  baskets  they 
had  caught  scarcely  anything  for  some  time  past. 
W^e  gave  them  some  of  our  provisions,  and  their 
gratitude  knew  no  bounds  : the  next  morning,  as  we 
continued  our  journey  after  recrossing  the  river, 
they  followed  us  for  some  distance  along  the  oppo- 
site bank  with  shouts  and  songs.  The  remainder  of 
this  day  (the  8th)  and  the  whole  of  the  9th  of  July 
we  passed  at  a little  settlement  opposite  to  the 
Obrom  Mountain,  partly  on  account  of  the  slight  ill- 
ness of  one  of  our  company,  and  partly  to  allow  our 
horses  rest. 

On  the  10th  we  descended  the  river  to  Ostrow- 
noje,  on  a raft  formed  of  trunks  of  trees,  our  horses 
following  by  the  river  bank.  We  engaged  a Tschu- 
wanzian chief,  who  understood  the  Tschuktschi  lan- 
guage, as  our  interpreter.  This  and  other  prepara- 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  POGINDEN. 


225 


tions  detained  us  until  the  12th,  when  we  crossed 
the  Ostrownoje  River,  and  slept  fifteen  wersts  farther 
on.  The  13th  was  cloudy  and  wet,  and  this  weath- 
er lasted  for  a week  : we  passed  over  several  wood- 
ed hills,  and  slept  near  the  sources  of  the  Koaawa- 
lowo  River.  On  the  14th  we  directed  our  course 
across  a barren  plain  to  a considerable  wood,  лѵЬісЬ 
appeared  at  a distance  to  be  traversed  by  a large 
winding  river,  which  we  supposed  to  be  the  Pogin- 
den,  and  it  was  late  at  night  before  we  discovered 
our  mistake,  on  reaching  the  banks  of  an  inconsid- 
erable stream,  where  we  slept.  The  country  through 
which  we  had  travelled  was  almost  a complete  des- 
ert : we  had  not  seen  a single  bird  or  quadruped, 
and  we  were  anxious  to  arrive  at  the  lakes  on  the 
Tundra,  where  we  hoped  to  find  wild  geese  and 
fish,  as  our  provisions  were  getting  very  low.  On 
the  15th  we  came  to  the  Poginden,  and  pitched  our 
tent  on  its  bank,  in  a thick  grove  of  poplars,  while 
some  of  the  party  cast  the  fishing-net,  and  others 
employed  themselves  in  looking  for  a ford.  The 
woods  here  consist  of  fine  poplar  aspens,  and  a 
very  ornamental  kind  of  willow,  with  long,  slender 
branches  ; there  are  excellent  pastures,  and  many 
flowering  and  sweet-smelling  plants  on  the  higher 
banks  of  the  river.  We  gathered  a quantity  of 
wild  leeks,  which  made  a very  good  addition  to  our 
scantily-provided  soup-kettle.  No  fish,  however, 
were  taken  in  the  net,  nor  could  we  find  any  ford. 
Still,  we  consoled  ourselves  with  the  hope  that  the 
river  would  be  lower  next  morning,  as  is  often  the 
case  with  the  rivers  in  this  country  in  summer, 
from  the  brooks  and  smaller  tributaries  freezing  du- 
ring the  night. 

At  daybreak  on  the  16th  we  found  the  water 
shallower  by  two  feet  in  the  Poginden,  and  crossed 
it  at  a part  where  it  divides  into  three  branches  : 
the  first  was  easily  passed  ; in  the  second  the  water 
was  half  up  the  horses’  bodies  ; and  in  the  third  we 


226  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

nearly  lost  one  of  our  pack  horses.  This  was  just 
above  a waterfall,  where  the  current  was  strong, 
but  the  ford  in  other  respects  was  the  best  we  could 
find : we  had  turned  our  horses’  heads  obliquely  up  the 
stream,  so  that  they  might  resist  the  force  of  the  wa- 
ter with  their  whole  strength,  and  had  reached  the  op- 
posite shore  in  safety ; but,  while  the  foremost  horses 
were  slowly  climbing  the  steep  bank,  the  last  was 
overborne  by  the  current,  lost  his  footing,  and  must 
inevitably  have  been  carried  down  the  fall  but  for 
the  long  string  by  which  he  was  fastened  to  the  oth- 
er horses. 

We  advanced  in  a northerly  direction,  and  saw 
from  the  top  of  a hill  a wide  marshy  plain  extend- 
ing to  the  Filatow,  one  of  the  three  principal  tributa- 
ries of  the  Poginden,  and  we  followed  its  edge  until 
we  found  a favourable  opportunity  of  crossing  it. 

The  Filatow  is  everywhere  very  rapid,  and  forms 
a number  of  gravelly  and  sandy  islands  overgrown 
with  willows.  It  is  much  inferior  in  size  to  the  Po- 
ginden, not  being  above  ten  or  fifteen  fathoms  across. 
We  slept  on  its  right  bank^  under  the  shelter  of  a 
bluff  cape  wooded  with  larch  : heavy  rain  fell  all 
the  night.  High  hills  extended  up  the  course  of 
the  stream  northward  as  far  as  we  could  see,  while 
to  the  southwest  the  chain  appeared  to  terminate 
about  twenty  worsts  from  us,  in  a high,  rocky  mount- 
ain. We  saw  numerous  rocks  from  which  the 
earthy  covering  had  apparently  been  washed  away  ; 
and  their  singular  forms  a lively  imagination  might 
easily  metamorphose  into  colossal  figures  of  men 
and  animals,  or  into  old  ruinous  buildings. 

On  the  17th  we  continued  our  journey,  through 
rain  and  sometimes  snow,  and  at  the  end  of  ten 
wersts  arrived  at  the  Fedoticha  River,  which  unites 
with  the  Filatow  in  latitude  69°  3'.  Here  the  wood 
ends,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Fedoticha  we 
saw  only  a few  willow-bushes  : before  crossing  it, 
therefore,  we  provided  ourselves  with  a supply  of 


SUPERSTITION  OP  THE  JüKAHIRI.  22? 


tent-pegs,  as  we  knew  we  should  not  find  any  in 
the  Tundra.  During  the  remainder  of  this  day’s 
march  we  had  to  cross  numerous  streams.  At 
night  we  were  roused  by  the  barking  of  our  dog  at 
the  approach  of  a black  bear,  but  the  darkness  pre- 
vented us  from  following  him,  and  he  escaped. 

On  the  18th  the  weather  was  so  bad  that  we  could 
see  nothing  of  the  country  through  which  we  pass- 
ed except  that  our  way  lay  between  precipitous 
hills  and  mountains,  the  valley  becoming  gradually 
narrower  and  wilder,  until  at  length  we  had  no 
footing  but  the  rocky  bed  of  a former  torrent.  Dark 
ravines  occasionally  opened  on  either  side  of  us. 
The  .Tukahiri  assured  us  that  this  gloomy  scene  was 
the  summer  resort  of  powerful  demons,  though  they 
themselves  visit  it  (with  many  precautions)  in  au- 
tumn, to  hunt  the  wild  sheep  which  are  attracted  by 
the  wormwood  that  grows  here  in  great  abundance, 
as  well  as  on  the  banks  of  the  Beresowaja  or  small 
Baranicha.  We  arrived  at  the  latter  river,  and  fol- 
lowed it  for  a short  distance  ; but  the  violent  gusts 
of  wind  through  the  ravines  rendered  it  so  difficult 
for  the  horses  to  keep  their  footing  on  the  slippery 
path,  that  we  were  obliged  to  halt  for  the  night,  and 
to  shelter  ourselves  from  the  thickly-falling  snow 
behind  a projecting  rock. 

On  the  19th  the  weather  improved,  the  hills  be- 
came lower,  and  the  valley  gradually  widened,  so 
that  where  we  halted  for  the  evening  it  was  above 
twenty  wersts  broad,  and  we  began  to  meet  with 
the  small  lakes  which  characterize  the  Tundras. 
M.  Bereshnoi  found  a mammoth’s  tooth  here,  and  I 
shot  a fat  wild  swan,  which  at  the  time  was  rather 
the  better  prize  of  the  two,  as  our  stock  of  provis- 
ions was  reduced  to  a few  biscuits.  It  was,  more- 
over, a good  omen,  for  we  were  awoke  early  the 
next  morning  by  the  noise  of  immense  numbers  of 
moulting  geese,  which  almost  covered  the  lake 
near  us.  We  were  soon  on  horseback,  and,  armed 


228  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

with  bludgeons,  surrounded  the  lake  that  they  might 
not  escape : our  dog  drove  them  on  shore,  and  we 
knocked  down  seventy-five.  Less  experienced  than 
my  companions  in  the  use  of  the  weapon,  and  not 
so  well  acquainted  with  the  tricks  of  these  birds, 
which  resemble  foxes  in  cunning,  I only  succeeded 
in  killing  one.  When  I saлv  them  lying  on  the 
ground,  with  their  necks  and  legs  stretched  out  quite 
stiff,  I passed  them  by,  thinking  them  dead,  and 
went  on  to  knock  down  others  ; but,  as  I turned 
back  to  pick  up  the  slain,  they  slipped  away  from 
me  with  wonderful  agility.  The  natives  are  never 
taken  in  by  them  in  this  way  : they  deal  their  blows 
лѵііЬ  remarkable  skill  and  quickness,  and  the  whole 
scene  presents  on  a small  scale  somewhat  of  the  an- 
imation of  the  autumn  reindeer  hunt.  In  great 
spirits  at  this  seasonable  supply,  we  loaded  our  hor- 
ses with  the  game,  and  continued  our  route  towards 
the  coast.  My  companions  thought  themselves 
still  thirty  wersts  from  it,  when  I found  by  the  me- 
ridian altitude  that  we  were  only  five  wersts,  the 
sea  being  concealed  from  us  by  some  intervening 
low  hills.  We  slept  that  night  a few  wersts  east 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Beresowaja. 

On  the  21st  of  July  we  joined  M.  Wrangell  at  the 
balagan  near  the  great  Baranicha.  On  the  31st  we 
crossed  the  three  arms  of  that  river  in  M.  Kosmin’s 
boat,  but  were  prevented  from  proceeding  farther 
for  twenty-four  hours  by  the  sudden  illness  of 
our  interpreter:  on  the  1st  of  August  he  was  so 
much  better  that  we  were  able  to  continue  our  jour- 
ney. The  geese,  which  had  now  completed  their 
moulting  and  were  in  full  plumage,  flew  over  our 
heads  in  large  flocks  towards  the  south,  and  we 
were  unable  to  shoot  one  of  them,  but  we  killed 
nine  pairs  of  swans  : these  birds  do  not  keep  togeth- 
er in  large  numbers,  but  are  usually  seen  in  pairs, 
or,  at  the  most,  in  parties  of  four.  Proceeding  some 
wersts  farther,  we  came  to  a spot  of  nearly  half  a 


WILD  GEESE. 


229 


werst  in  breadth,  between  a low  hill  and  the  sea, 
where  the  ground  might  be  said  to  consist  entirely 
of  mammoth  and  buffalo  bones  ; but  a travelling 
party,  the  traces  of  whose  fires  we  saw  at  a little 
distance,  had  been  here  before  us,  and  carried  off  all 
the  valuable  part  of  the  spoil,  namely,  the  teeth. 
There  were  large  heaps  of  jaw  bones,  which  had  ev- 
idently been  thrown  aside  by  them. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Kosmina,  to  our  surprise 
we  met  M.  Kosmin,  who  had  come  here  in  his  boat 
by  sea,  with  four  companions,  for  fishing.  They  had 
been  very  successful  the  first  night,  but  the  next  day 
a north  wind  drove  so  much  ice  into  the  river  that 
they  could  do  no  more  for  several  days.  This  so- 
called  river  is,  I suspect,  nothing  but  a long,  narrow 
arm  of  the  sea,  for  the  fishermen  who  had  been 
twenty  worsts  inland  to  the  S.E.  to  shoot  birds,  re- 
ported that  they  found  the  breadth  still  the  same, 
and  the  water  too  salt  to  drink. 

On  the  3d  of  August  we  took  leave  of  M.  Kosmin, 
who,  with  his  people,  had  assisted  us  to  construct 
a light  boat  for  crossing  the  larger  rivers.  Our  par- 
ty consisted  of  M.  Bereshnoi,  his  interpreter  the 
Tschuwanzian  chief  Mordowskij,  three  Jakuti,  and 
myself ; and  we  had  sixteen  saddle  and  pack  horses. 

On  the  4th  of  August  I had  separated  myself  from 
the  party  to  gain  a better  view  of  the  country  from 
higher  ground,  when  I came  on  a large  flock  of 
geese,  which  had  been  later  than  the  rest  in  moult- 
ing. I left  my  horse  grazing,  and,  quietly  approach- 
ing the  birds  from  the  leeward  side,  succeeded  in 
knocking  down  several.  Meanwhile,  one  of  our  Ja- 
kuti had  been  sent  to  look  for  me  by  the  party,  who 
had  become  uneasy  at  my  absence,  and  he  continued 
the  chase  with  good  success. 

On  the  4th  of  August  we  halted  in  a large  deep 
valley,  which  had  apparently  been  a lake  at  some 
former  period.  The  steep  shores  which  surround- 
ed it  appeared  a promising  locality  for  mammoth 


S30  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


bones,  but  the  result  did  not  correspond  to  the  ex^ 
pectations  we  had  formed ; during  the  two  next 
days,  however,  many  bones  were  found,  though  no 
very  valuable  teeth.  We  shot  two  reindeer  near  a 
lake.  From  the  top  of  a hill  we  could  plainly  dis- 
tinguish, 100  wersts  to  the  east,  the  high  mountains 
of  Wajwanin,  Geilla,  Rautan,  and  Cape  Schelag- 
skoj,  and  also  the  bluff  rocks  to  the  east  and  south 
of  Tschaun  Bay,  so  that  I was  able  to  take  several 
very  useful  angles  for  my  survey  of  the  country. 

M.  Bereshnio  determined  to  lose  no  time  in  search- 
ing for  mammoth  bones,  but  to  make  a trading  in- 
tercourse with  the  Tschuktschi  the  principal  object 
of  his  journey.  On  the  7th  of  August  we  took  a 
southwesterly  course,  between  low  hills  and  across 
lakes  which  were  generally  frozen,  to  what  is  called 
the  Bolschaja  Reka,  or  Great  River,  but  which  is,  in 
fact,  the  western  entrance  of  Tschaun  Bay,  which 
had  been  hitherto  mistaken  for  a river,  where  we  ar- 
rived after  a short  march. 

I must  here  notice  a curious  natural  feature  of  the 
country.  Since  quitting  the  Kosmina  River  we  had 
been  passing  numerous  deep  lakes,  so  close  togeth- 
er that  they  were  usually  divided  from  each  other 
only  by  dams  of  earth  a foot  or  a foot  and  a half 
broad ; yet  the  level  of  the  water  in  them,  so  far 
from  being  the  same,  often  differed  as  much  as  one 
or  two  feet.  There  can,  therefore,  be  no  communi- 
cation between  them ; but,  as  the  thin  separating 
dikes  consist  only  of  vegetable  earth,  we  must  sup- 
pose them  to  be  consolidated  by  ice  which  never 
melts  ; and  this  would  also  account  for  the  remark- 
able coldness  of  the  water  of  these  lakes,  which  in 
many  instances  were  already  frozen.  Still  it  is 
singular  that  neither  the  summer  sun,  nor  the  action 
of  the  water  on  either  side,  should  be  able  to  pene- 
trate such  thin  partitions. 

Tschaun  Bay  has  two  entrances,  divided  from 
each  other  by  the  island  Aiun  (called  Sabadat  in  the 


MOCK  SUNS. 


231 


older  maps),  the  north  point  of  which  forms  a low 
sandy  cape.  The  whole  island  appears  to  be  of  a 
similar  character : neither  bushes  nor  grass  are  to 
be  seen  on  it,  but  only  moss.  The  western  entrance, 
near  which  we  were,  is  the  smaller  of  the  two. 
When  M.  Bereshnoi  was  here  the  preceding  sum- 
mer, he  found  in  it  only  two  feet  of  water,  so  that 
it  could  be  waded  across  with  ease  ; but  now  north- 
erly winds  had  raised  its  level  considerably,  and  the 
breadth  of  the  bay  was  from  ten  to  fifteen  wersts. 

The  narrow  strip  of  sand  on  which  we  stood  was 
almost  covered  with  the  shells  of  a kind  of  muscle, 
which  is  abundant  in  the  Aleutian  Islands  and  at 
Sitka  : they  were  partly  overgrown  with  large-leav- 
ed sea-cabbage  and  other  marine  plants.  We  also 
saw  many  shells  of  shrimps,  and  a muscle-like  kind 
of  shellfish,  which  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  digiteU 
lus  crassus. 

Since  early  in  the  morning  there  had  been  a sharp 
east  wind  and  a perfectly  clear  sky.  At  noon  we 
witnessed  a beautiful  phenomenon,  which  my  com- 
panions pronounced  indicative  of  approaching  bad 
weather  of  long  continuance.  The  sun  was  sur- 
rounded by  four  parhelions  or  mock  suns,  at  equal 
distances  from  each  other,  connected  by  a circle  of 
brilliant  prismatic  colours,  of  which  the  radius  was 
22°.  The  true  sun  and  two  of  the  parhelions  were 
intersected,  besides,  by  a horizontal  prismatic  arc, 
extending  80°,  having  two  smaller  bows  at  the  two 
ends.  These  last,  which  were  perpendicular  to  the 
horizon,  had  peculiarly  bright  and  sharply-defined 
colours,  but  in  reverse  order  to  those  of  the  rainbow. 
The  phenomenon  lasted  two  hours,  and  then  gradu- 
ally disappeared.  The  wind  fell  soon  after,  and  the 
bad  weather  which  had  been  foretold  set  in  with 
falling  snow. 

We  slept  in  a narrow  valley,  which  afforded  good 
grass  for  our  horses,  and  driftwood  for  ourselves  : 
the  ground  on  which  our  tent  was  pitched  had  only 
thawed  to  the  depth  of  three  inches. 


232  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

On  the  8th  of  August  we  continued  our  march 
along  the  low  beach  at  the  foot  of  a steep  earthy 
bank,  from  three  to  seven  fathoms  in  height,  full  of 
roots,  plants,  and  fragments  of  resinous  shrubs : it 
was  obviously  of  recent  formation,  and  contained 
no  traces  of  mammoth  bones.*  A spot  where  the 
earth  had  given  way  presented  a curious  section  of 
one  of  the  small  lakes  which  had  been  dried  up,  the 
basin  of  which  was  only  five  feet  deep  : it  was  lined 
by  two  coats  of  ice,  separated  from  each  other  by  an 
empty  space,  the  upper  coat  being  covered  with 
earth,  on  which  was  growing  several  creeping  plants 
and  shrubs.  About  noon  we  came  to  a deep  though 
not  broad  river,  which  enters  Tschaun  Bay  by  two 
arms,  and  across  which  we  swam  our  horses,  and 
conveyed  our  luggage  in  the  boat ; the  river  appear- 
ed to  come  from  the  west,  and  I consider  it  as  being 
most  probably  another  outlet  of  the  Kosmina.  The 
bad  weather  and  the  number  of  small  lakes  render- 
ed our  progress  difficult.  During  the  night  the  hills 
were  covered  with  snow,  and  on  the  9th  it  fell  so 
thick  as  to  conceal  almost  every  object  from  our 
view.  We  met  with  many  tracks  of  bears,  and  with 
a board  which  seemed  to  have  formed  part  of  a 
wreck.  As  we  approached  the  Wajwanin  Mountain 
we  had  firmer  footing,  over  fine  gravel  and  along 
the  foot  of  cliffs  of  black  slate,  intersected  by  veins 
of  quartz.  Towards  evening  the  weather  cleared 
and  the  wind  became  due  north.  Very  little  ice  ap- 
pears to  drift  into  Tschaun  Bay,  probably  owing  to 
the  existence  of  shallows  near  the  entrances.  Two 
or  three  miles  from  the  coast  we  saw  an  insulated 
rock,  which  appeared  like  a frigate  with  the  wind 
abeam.  I supposed  it  to  consist  of  quartz,  both 

At  several  places  along  the  coast  we  found  old  weather- 
beaten driftwood  at  a height  of  two  fathoms  above  the  present 
level  of  the  sea,  while  fresh  driftwood  lay  on  the  beach  below. 
Does  not  this  appear  to  indicate  a change  having  taken  place  m 
the  relative  levels  of  the  sea  and  land  ? 


MEETING  A BEAR. 


233 


from  its  whitish-gray  colour,  and  from  its  having 
withstood  the  shock  of  the  waves  and  of  masses  of 
ice,  which  it  could  not  have  done  had  it  been  com- 
posed of  slate.  Our  route  on  the  12th  was  still 
along  the  coast,  but  over  a spur  of  the  Wajwanin 
Mountain  : the  bad  weather  had  returned,  and  we 
slept  in  a narrow  valley,  where  we  had  good  grass 
and  plenty  of  driftwood.  On  the  13th  we  shorten- 
ed our  route  by  keeping  inland,  and  cutting  off  a 
projection  of  the  coast,  and  emerged  again  on  the 
seashore  at  the  end  of  seven  hours,  when,  as  I was 
riding  carelessly  along,  at  some  distance  from  my 
companions,  on  turning  suddenly  round  a rock  I 
came  upon  a bear  engaged  in  devouring  a seal.  Es- 
cape was  impossible,  for  the  animal  had  caught  sight 
of  me,  and,  quitting  the  seal,  made  furiously  towards 
me.  Defence  was  equally  out  of  the  question,  for 
I had  no  weapon  except  a short  knife  in  my  girdle, 
I recollected  at  the  instant  having  heard  the  native 
hunters  say,  that  a bear  could  not  encounter  the  fix- 
ed eye  of  a man,  but  would  always  turn  away  and 
fly  ; so  I sprang  from  my  horse  and  advanced  to- 
wards him  as  boldly  as  I could.  The  animal  was 
not,  however,  in  the  least  disconcerted  by  my  steady 
looks  ; and  it  would  probably  have  fared  badly  with 
me  if  at  this  critical  moment  my  dog  had  not  sprang 
forward,  and  by  his  loud  barking  put  my  adversary 
to  flight.  I brought  away  the  seal  as  a trophy,  and 
it  afforded  the  party  a very  acceptable  addition  to 
our  reduced  stock  of  provisions. 

We  had  now  been  travelling  nearly  six  weeks 
without  reaching  the  country  of  the  Tschuktschi, 
the  object  of  our  expedition.  The  time  had  far  ex- 
ceeded M.  Bereshnoi’s  calculations,  and  the  lateness 
of  the  season  and  the  bad  weather  made  him  fear 
that  our  return  might  prove  a winter  journey,  for 
which  we  were  wholly  unprovided.  He  held,  there- 
fore, a very  serious  conversation  on  the  subject 
with  our  principal  guide,  the  interpreter,  who  at  last 


234  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

admitted,  what  I had  long  suspected,  that  he  had 
been  leading  us  by  conjecture  hitherto,  and  that  now 
he  knew  no  better  than  we  did  where  to  look  for 
the  Tschuktschi.  Our  vexation  may  be  easily  ima- 
gined. For  myself,  I had  at  least  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  surveying  the  country,  and  the  part  of  the 
coast  we  had  travelled  over,  conformably  with  my 
instructions,  but  M.  Bereshnoi  had  obtained  nothing 
but  a few  mammoth  bones  in  return  for  all  the 
labour  and  expense  he  had  incurred  : both  of  us  had 
missed  the  principal  aim  and  most  interesting  object 
of  our  journey,  a communication  and  acquaintance 
with  the  Tschuktschi  in  their  own  country.  M. 
Bereshnoi  determined  to  return  to  the  Kolyma  by 
the  shortest  route  across  the  Tundra;  and  as  it 
was  not  for  me  to  oppose  his  judgment,  founded  on 
many  years’  experience  and  perfect  knowledge  of 
the  country,  we  set  out  on  the  14th  of  August, 
greatly  disappointed  at  the  failure  of  our  hopes,  and 
turned  our  steps  towards  a range  of  mountains  which 
we  saw  to  the  eastward,  from  which  we  hoped  to 
obtain  such  a view  of  the  country  as  would  enable 
us  to  select  the  best  line  of  march.  After  riding 
twenty  wersts  we  arrived  near  the  foot  of  the  mount- 
ains, which  were  separated  from  us  by  a deep  and 
rapid  river,  which  we  crossed  with  a good  deal  of 
difficulty,  and  encamped  after  nightfall  on  the  high 
bank  on  the  opposite  side. 

A very  agreeable  surprise  awaited  us  with  the 
first  beams  of  the  morning-sun ; for  accident  had 
conducted  us  better  than  our  guide,  and  we  here  found 
ourselves  within  the  boundaries  of  the  Tschuktschi 
territory.  The  river  we  had  crossed  was  the  Taun- 
meo,  and  near  it  were  many  Tschuktschi  jurti : we 
hastened  to  them,  but  they  were  all  empty.  The 
marks  of  their  having  been  occupied  were  still  so  re- 
cent, that  the  wind  had  not  blown  away  the  light 
ashes  from  the  hearths  ; and,  though  bones  and  other 
remnants  of  food  lay  scattered  around,  the  wolves 


VALLEY  OF  TAÜNMEO. 


235 


had  not  yet  been  attracted  by  them.  As  the  inhab- 
itants could  not  be  far  distant,  I climbed  a neighbour- 
ing hill,  from  which  I hoped  to  have  an  extensive 
view,  in  company  with  the  interpreter,  who  profess- 
ed to  recognise  the  country,  and  said  that  the  name 
of  the  mountain  on  which  we  were  was  Geilly ; but 
before  we  reached  its  summit  we  were  enveloped 
in  thick  mist.  This,  and  two  signal-shots  from  our 
companions,  obliged  us  to  descend.  M.  Bereshnoi, 
still  adhering  to  his  intention  of  returning,  had  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river,  with  the  rest  of  the  party,  and 
left  a Jakut  with  our  horses  to  wait  for  us : we 
mounted,  and  soon  overtook  our  companions. 

The  valley  of  the  Taunrneo  has  a considerable 
breadth,  and,  like  most  of  the  valleys  of  this  region, 
is  interspersed  with  numerous  lakes.  It  is  bounded 
on  either  side,  first  by  flat  hills,  and  afterward  by 
towering  masses  of  rock.  In  places  sheltered  from 
the  cold  northern  blast  we  found  bushes  of  dwarf- 
birch,  which  furnished  us  with  a scanty  supply  of 
fuel  for  cooking.  On  the  16th  of  August  we  saw 
numerous  traces  of  Tschuktschi  dwellings,  but  no 
inhabitants  : the  country  appeared  entirely  deserted. 
Yet  we  met  large  herds  of  reindeer,  which  allowed 
us  to  approach  them  so  closely  that  we  could  not 
but  suppose  them  domesticated,  and  the  property  of 
the  absent  inhabitants  of  the  valley ; and  we  subse- 
quently ascertained  that  our  belief  in  this  respect 
was  well  grounded,  and  that  the  Tschuktschi  to 
whom  they  belonged  had  fled  at  our  approach. 

The  farther  we  receded  from  the  coast  the  warmer 
the  air  became,  and  towards  evening  we  were  again 
tormented  by  moschetoes,  which  were  fortunately 
soon  dispersed  by  a northwest  wind.  We  saw  here 
and  there  plants  of  the  black  crowberry  (empetrum 
nigrum)^  the  whortleberry  {vaccinium  uliginosum)^  and 
the  cloudberry  {rubus  chamcBmorus),  but,  probably 
owing  to  the  cold  of  the  summer,  none  of  them  had 
fruited. 


236  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

On  the  17th  we  had  so  violent  a northwest  wind, 
with  rain  and  snow,  that  we  were  obliged  to  halt ; 
but  the  storm  made  it  impossible  to  pitch  our  tent, 
and  the  heavy  rain  baffied  all  attempts  at  kindling  a 
fire.  At  night  the  rain  and  snow  were  succeeded  by 
frost,  and  in  our  wet  clothes  we  suffered  much  from 
cold,  as  the  wind  still  continued,  and  constantly  ex- 
tinguished the  little  fire  we  tried  to  make  with  the 
few  twigs  we  could  collect. 

At  daybreak  on  the  18th  we  gladly  put  ourselves 
in  motion,  to  warm  our  chilled  limbs  by  exercise. 
The  lakes  were  frozen  over,  the  morass  was  every- 
where hard  and  passable,  and  around  the  bays  in  the 
river  there  лѵеге  margins  of  ice. 

On  the  19th  we  made  but  a short  day’s  journey,  as 
we  had  before  us  a difficult  passage  over  a mount- 
ain-range, and  it  was  necessary  to  spare  our  horses. 
We  had  no  fuel,  and  our  only  food  was  a small  quan- 
tity of  dry  biscuit. 

On  the  20th  we  turned  to  the  westward,  along 
some  tracks  made  by  the  reindeer.  In  a plain  be- 
tween two  rivers  we  came  upon  a pathway,  which 
we  afterward  learned  was  that  followed  by  the 
Tschuktschi  in  their  journey  to  Ostrownoje.  I pro- 
posed that  we  should  pursue  it ; but,  being  a stran- 
ger in  the  country,  I was  outvoted  by  my  compan- 
ions, and  we  turned  up  a river,  which  soon  conduct- 
ed us  into  a deep  and  rugged  valley  bounded  by  steep 
rocks,  the  fantastic  forms  of  which  appeared  still 
more  strange  through  the  mist,  which  presently  be- 
came so  dense  that  we  could  see  nothing  but  a few 
projecting  points.  The  rushing  of  the  torrents  on 
every  side,  sometimes  rolling  down  large  masses  of 
rock,  the  howling  of  the  storm  through  the  ravines, 
and  the  thick  fog  which  now  concealed  every  ob- 
ject from  our  view,  made  the  scene  a most  desolate 
one  ; and,  completely  ignorant  as  we  were  of  the 
place,  our  farther  progress  was  rendered  no  less  dan- 
gerous than  toilsome.  We  soon  perceived  that  the 


PROGRESS  STOPPED  BY  A PRECIPICE.  237 

ground  under  our  feet  became  still  more  steep,  and 
the  sound  of  the  river  more  distant : we  were  in  a 
narrow  ravine,  which  would  probably  lead  to  preci- 
pices ; and  we  therefore  dismounted,  and  led  our 
horses  for  two  hours,  during  which  we  toiled  on  over 
loose  stones.  In  this  manner  we  reached  a spot 
where  the  path  seemed  suddenly  to  end,  and  a pre- 
cipice lay  before  us,  of  which  we  could  not  see  the 
depth  on  account  of  the  mist.  Farther  advance  was 
now  impossible,  and  the  exhaustion  of  our  horses 
made  it  equally  so  to  return  to  the  place  we  had  left, 
now  thirty  worsts  distant.  While  in  this  perplexity 
we  heard  the  sound  of  a herd  of  reindeer,  and,  has- 
tening in  the  direction  of  it,  we  soon  got  sight  of 
them  ; but  they  had  scented  our  approach,  and  quick- 
ly disappeared  in  the  mist.  Their  tracks,  which  we 
followed,  led  us  through  a ravine  to  the  southwest, 
and,  after  winding  up  it  for  some  time,  we  arrived  at 
the  summit  of  the  range. 

We  now  emerged  from  the  mist,  but  a sea  of 
clouds  still  concealed  everything  beneath,  and  the 
little  spot  on  which  we  stood  seemed  like  an  island 
in  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  The  ascent  had  been  la- 
borious, but  the  descent  was  far  more  dangerous. 
For  half  the  distance  down  (about  100  fathoms  per- 
pendicular height)  we  were  directed  by  the  track  of 
the  reindeer,  and  we  could  not  but  admire  their  ju- 
dicious selection  of  the  ground ; but  the  other  half 
was  over  loose  gravel  and  fragments  of  rock,  where 
we  were  no  longer  able  to  trace  the  footsteps  of  our 
guides.  By  keeping  an  oblique  course  down  this 
steep  and  difficult  slope,  still  leading  our  horses, 
sometimes  supporting  them  and  sometimes  support- 
ing ourselves  by  them,  we  reached  a lake  at  the 
bottom  : the  shore  was  of  gravel,  but  after  proceed- 
ing a few  wersts  we  found  pasture.  Our  horses 
were  thus  provided  for,  but  for  ourselves  we  had 
only  a few  scanty  crumbs  of  biscuit  and  fish,  the  last 
remains  of  our  store.  Most  of  our  party  were  cheer- 


238  ЛVRANGELL’S  POLAR  EXPEDITION. 

ed  by  the  hope  that  we  should  the  next  day  reach 
the  woody  region  and  the  Aniuj,  where  we  might 
expect  to  find  food  and  shelter.  They  believed  that 
лѵе  had  just  crossed  the  dividing  range  of  mountains, 
whereas  I felt  almost  certain  that  it  was  still  to  the 
south  of  us  ; but  my  reasons,  being  chiefly  theoretic, 
had  but  little  weight  with  my  companions. 

At  daybreak,  however,  it  unfortunately  became 
evident  that  I was  right : we  had  gone  widely  astray, 
having  crossed  a N.W.  branch  of  the  principal  chain, 
and  being  now  on  an  arm  of  the  Baranicha.  Still, 
the  opinion  of  the  Tschuwanzian  guide  prevailed, 
and  we  proceeded  forward  in  the  same  direction. 
We  were  all  on  foot,  as  our  horses  were  completely 
exhausted,  and  our  only  food  consisted  of  some  wild 
leeks,  and  a few  roots  which  we  had  found  in  a 
mouse’s  burrow. 

At  daylight  on  the  22d  of  August,  the  aspect  of  the 
country,  and  the  characteristic  sea-mist  rising  be- 
fore us  in  the  direction  we  were  going,  at  length 
opened  the  eyes  of  my  companions,  and  even  the 
Tschuwanzian  confessed  that  he  did  not  remember 
ever  having  been  here  before.  It  was  now  admitted 
that  my  opinion  had  been  the  more  correct  one,  and 
I was  requested  to  take  the  conduct  of  the  party. 
By  my  reckoning  we  were  two  days’  journey  from 
the  Aniuj,  towards  which  we  at  once  directed  our 
course,  travelling  on  foot  through  ravines  and  over 
rocks  for  twenty-five  wersts,  when  we  became  too 
much  exhausted  to  proceed  farther.  A fire  was 
lighted,  and  the  kettle  hung  over  it  as  usual,  but  we 
had  absolutely  nothing  eatable  to  put  into  it.  While 
we  were  gathered  round  it  in  silence,  one  of  the  Ja- 
kuti  called  me  aside,  and,  taking  a wild  duck  out  of 
his  haversack  unseen  by  the  rest,  told  me  that  he 
had  killed  it  with  a stone  when  he  was  accidentally 
a little  behind  the  party.  “ There,”  said  he,  “ take 
and  eat  it  alone  ; it  is  too  little  to  do  good  to  all  of 
us,  and  you  are  very  tired.” 


SUFFERINGS  FROM  HUNGER. 


239 


I thanked  him  most  heartily  for  such  disinterested 
kindness,  and  put  the  duck  at  once  into  the  kettle. 
Weak  as  the  broth  was,  and  little  of  it  as  fell  to  the 
share  of  each,  we  felt  strengthened  by  it.  The 
cloudless  sky  made  us  hope  for  a fine  day  for  cross- 
ing the  mountains ; but  in  the  night  a violent  wind 
rose,  and  next  morning  the  ground  was  covered  with 
snow.  The  ascent  of  the  mountains  was  rendered 
more  fatiguing  by  our  having  in  many  places  to 
wade  up  to  our  knees  in  snow ; but  at  length  we 
reached  the  summit,  when  the  sun  broke  for  a mo- 
ment through  the  clouds,  and  showed  to  us  snow- 
covered  hills  on  every  side.  In  our  descent,  the 
snow  did  much  to  save  us  from  material  injury  in 
the  frequent  falls  we  met  with,  and  we  reached  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  by  dusk,  still  much  bruised. 
Notwithstanding  our  weariness,  we  had  but  little 
sleep  during  the  night ; for,  after  three  days’  fasting 
and  incessant  exertion,  the  pangs  of  hunger  were 
severely  felt  by  all. 

On  the  24th  we  climbed  a lower  range  of  hills, 
from  the  summit  of  which,  to  our  great  joy,  we  saw 
a wide  valley  with  numerous  groups  of  trees,  and 
by  nightfall  we  reached  a small  lake.  I now  pro- 
posed to  kill  one  of  the  horses  ; but  the  Jakuti  as- 
sured me  that,  in  the  present  heated  state  of  their 
blood,  the  use  of  their  flesh  лѵоиЫ  be  sure  to  occa- 
sion serious  illness.  We  had  just  strength  enough 
left  to  place  a net  in  the  lake  before  we  sank  on  the 
ground  exhausted  with  hunger  and  fatigue.  The  sun 
was  high  when  we  awoke  the  next  morning  (August 
25th).  No  one  appeared  willing  to  draw  the  net,  as 
all  feared  it  would  contain  nothing,  and  dreaded  to 
be  assured  that  it  was  so  : at  length,  however,  we 
made  the  effort ; the  net  was  taken  up,  and  we  found 
in  it  three  large  and  several  small  fish.  Expressions 
of  thanksgiving,  of  joy,  and  of  mutual  congratulation 
were  heard  on  every  side  ; a fire  was  kindled  in  a 
few  moments,  and  an  excellent  broth,  seasoned  with 


240  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

wild  leeks  and  herbs,  soon  appeased  our  hunger,  and 
in  great  measure  restored  our  strength. 

Having  finished  our  meal,  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney, and,  after  passing  round  the  lake,  came  in  sight 
of  the  Aniuj : to  reach  it,  however,  we  were  obliged 
to  cross  a torrent,  which,  with  our  broken-down 
horses,  was  no  easy  matter.  The  bed  of  the  stream 
was  strewed  with  large  blocks  of  stone,  and  the 
water  was  often  up  to  the  saddles.  After  proceed- 
ing five  wersts  farther,  and  fording  or  swimming 
several  other  streams,  we  reached  the  Aniuj  near 
the  mouth  of  a small  river. 

We  here  saw  two  flocks  of  geese  passing  to  the 
south,  pursued  by  a hawk ; he  pounced  on  one  of 
them,  which  fell  to  the  ground  dead ; but,  before  he 
could  carry  off  his  prey,  we  came  up  and  secured  it. 

We  halted  on  the  26th  in  a grove  of  poplars,  near 
the  confluence  of  the  Schichutina  with  the  Aniuj, 
and  before  nightfall  had  constructed  a weir  across  the 
former  river  and  set  our  net.  On  taking  it  up  at  the 
end  of  an  hour  or  two,  we  found  in  it  more  than  200 
fish  of  different  sizes  ; and,  having  enjoyed  an  excel- 
lent meal,  we  made  several  more  casts,  and  caught  in 
all  about  800  fish:  we  did  not  lie  down  to  rest  until 
the  day  began  to  dawn,  the  night  being  the  most  fa- 
vourable time  for  this  kind  of  fishing.  On  the  27th 
the  net  was  down  the  whole  day  without  taking  a sin- 
gle fish,  but  the  following  night  we  caught  2000.  We 
had  now  so  rich  a supply  of  fish,  that,  notwithstand- 
ing the  enormous  appetite  of  the  Jakuti,*  we  were 
unable  to  eat  them  all ; and,  with  the  recollection  of 
our  own  hunger  fresh  in  our  minds,  we  prepared  a 
deposite  of  those  that  were  left  for  the  use  of  other 
travellers,  who  might  arrive  at  a less  favourable  sea- 
son. We  constructed  a sajba  on  two  larch-trees, 
and  placed  in  it  5000  fish,  which  we  were  sure 

* The  appetite  of  these  people  is  extraordinary  : each  one  of 
them  eat  daily  sixty  fish  or  more,  when  for  myself  I found  ten 
of  the  same  size  quite  sufficient. 


DISCOVERY  OF  WINTER  GARMENTS.  241 


would  keep  good,  as  the  frost  had  now  fairly  set 
in ; and,  to  draw  attention  to  the  spot,  we  erected  a 
large  wooden  cross  near  it.  Several  months  after- 
Avard  we  had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  that  some  wan- 
dering families,  reduced  to  the  extremity  of  hunger, 
had  happily  arrived  at  this  place,  and  that  our  store 
had  saved  them  from  perishing,  and  supported  them 
for  a whole  month.  We  passed  the  29th  in  forming 
this  deposite,  and  meanwhile  our  horses  were  re- 
cruiting their  strength,  as  the  pasture  was  still  good, 
though  covered  with  snow.  The  SOth'was  the  em- 
peror’s name-day,  and  we  celebrated  it  as  well  as 
we  could : in  the  afternoon  we  amused  ourselves 
with  shooting  at  a mark  with  bows  and  arrows,  a 
large  travelling-knife,  a hunting-knife,  and  a bridle 
forming  the  prizes,  and  the  wild  shores  resounded 
with  our  songs.  A very  opportune  and  agreeable 
circumstance  closed  this  cheerful  day.  As  we  were 
to  start  early  on  the  following  morning,  the  Jakuti 
were  collecting  the  horses  from  the  wood,  when  they 
came  to  a sajba  where  several  winter  garments  had 
been  deposited.  Our  own  clothes  were  nearly  worn 
out  by  the  journey,  and  could  ill  protect  us  against 
the  daily-increasing  cold : we  took,  therefore,  from 
the  store  as  many  fur  shirts,  gloves,  and  boots  as 
we  required,  and  left  in  their  stead  an  ample  com- 
pensation in  tobacco,  and  in  powder  and  shot.  We 
also  erected  here  a large  cross,  to  which  we  affixed 
a direction  to  our  deposite  of  fish.  Direction-marks 
of  this  kind,  for  a variety  of  purposes,  are  frequent- 
ly met  with  in  these  deserts. 

At  daybreak  on  the  31st  of  August  we  loaded  our 
horses,  refreshed  by  five  days’  rest,  with  our  bag- 
gage and  a supply  of  about  1000  fish,  and  resumed 
our  journey.  Steep  hills  obliged  us  to  cross  the 
Aniuj  repeatedly,  but  this  was  not  difficult,  as  from 
the  freezing  of  the  smaller  streams  the  water  was 
low. 

On  the  4th  of  September  we  came  to  some  jiirti, 


242  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


occupied  by  five  families,  who  cleared  out  a large 
balagan  for  our  reception.  Our  Jakuti  were  delight« 
ed  at  meeting  with  auditors  to  v/hom  they  could 
relate  their  travelling  adventures  with  as  many  em- 
bellishments as  they  pleased  ; nor  did  our  presence 
operate  on  them  as  the  slightest  restraint  in  this  re- 
spect. There  was  good  pasture  here,  and  M.  Be- 
reshnoi  resolved  to  remain  for  a time,  to  rest  him- 
self and  his  horses.  The  short  remainder  of  the 
season  I concluded  to  employ  in  surveying  the  Aniuj 
to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  a distance  of  500  wersts  ; and 
having  had  a raft  constructed  of  trunks  of  aspens, 
bound  together  by  willow  rods,  to  be  managed  by 
two  oars,*  on  the  6th  of  September  I commenced 
my  voyage  down  the  stream,  accompanied  by  a 
young  Jukahir,  recommended  to  me  as  being  ac- 
quainted with  the  rocks,  shallows,  and  rapids  by 
his  father,  with  whom  I left  my  gun  and  ammu- 
nition for  the  hunting-season  in  return  for  his  son’s 
services.  Our  vessel  was  awkward  and  very  diffi- 
cult to  direct,  especially  when  we  came  to  falls. 
On  the  9th  we  reached  Mungol,  on  the  11th  Plot- 
bischtsche,  and  on  the  12th  Maloji  Wetrennoje.  I 
had  visited  all  these  places  the  preceding  summer 
with  Dr.  Kyber,  when  the  banks  were  lined  with 
busy  and  successful  hunters : now,  birds  were  roost- 
ing in  the  deserted  huts,  and  wolves  prowling  around 
them.  On  the  12th  we  met  with  the  family  of  Kor- 
kin, who  had  entertained  me  so  hospitably  when  I 
was  last  here,  and  who  were  now  reduced  to  one 
meal  in  forty-eight  hours.  Our  raft  had  been  much 
injured,  and  was  unfit  to  encounter  the  floating  ice 

* These  rafts  are  made  of  nine  or  ten  stems  of  trees,  of  a 
light  kind  of  wood  (straight  aspens  or  poplars),  the  ends  of  which 
are  drawn  together  to  a point.  At  the  other  end  the  stems  are 
spread  out  in  a fanlike  manner,  with  small  boards  to  fill  up  the 
interstices,  and  the  whole  is  bound  together  with  willow  rods. 
Such  a raft  is  very  solid,  and  its  form  makes  it  move  through 
the  water  tolerably  fast. 


LOSS  OF  BOAT. 


243 


which  we  began  to  meet  with ; and  as  we  were  try- 
ing to  repair  it,  Korkin  came  very  kindly  to  offer 
me  the  use  of  his  boat,  in  which  we  departed  on 
the  13th.  We  hoisted  sail,  and  with  a favouring 
wind  soon  reached  Molotkowo.  Notwithstanding 
the  rapidity  of  the  current,  there  was  already  so 
much  ice  that  we  sometimes  had  difficulty  in  break- 
ing through  it  ; and,  as  severe  cold  might  be  daily 
expected,  I feared  we  might  be  frozen  up  in  the 
stream  at  a distance  from  any  inhabited  place,  and 
therefore  hired  seven  dogs,  which  I took  in  the  boat, 
so  that,  if  such  should  be  the  case,  we  might  proceed 
with  them  on  the  ice.  In  the  evening,  as  we  were 
approaching  an  island  covered  with  larch-trees,  our 
boat  was  caught  between  two  large  masses  of  ice 
and  crushed  to  pieces.  We  landed  safely  on  the 
island,  and  succeeded  also  in  saving  our  things.  As 
we  might  be  detained  here  some  days,  we  built  a 
hut  of  branches,  and  covered  it  first  with  moss  and 
then  with  snow,  over  which  we  poured  water,  which 
froze  immediately,  so  that  we  had  a very  comforta- 
ble, air-tight  dwelling.  Our  dogs  we  tethered  out- 
side, to  guard  against  a surprise  by  bears. 

We  waited  here  two  days,  till  the  ice  was  strong 
enough  to  bear  us  ; and  on  the  18th  we  crossed  to 
the  right  bank,  close  to  which  we  drove  slowly 
along,  as  our  dogs  were  weak,  and  the  ice  still  so 
thin  that  it  sometimes  broke  under  us.  On  the  20th 
it  became  apparently  quite  solid,  and,  seeing  smoke 
on  the  opposite  bank,  I attempted  to  cross  ; but  in 
the  middle  of  the  stream  the  ice  gave  way,  and  I 
should  have  been  drawn  beneath  it  by  the  current 
but  for  a pole  which  I carried  with  me,  and  with 
which  I supported  myself  till  the  guide  threw  me  the 
end  of  a very  long  thong,  by  means  of  which  he 
drew  me  out.  On  the  left  bank  we  found  a Lamu- 
tian  family  whose  reindeer  had  been  destroyed  by 
wolves,  and  who  were  supporting  themselves  by 
fishing.  They  had  been  successful,  and  had  collected 


244  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


a large  stock  of  dried  and  frozen  fish,  of  which  they 
let  us  have  as  much  as  we  wanted  for  ourselves  and 
dogs.  During  the  night  the  “ warm  wind”  set  in, 
and  weakened  the  ice  so  much  that  we  were  detain- 
ed two  days.  On  the  23d  we  were  enabled  to  pro- 
ceed, and  on  the  24th  I arrived  at  Nishne  Kolymsk, 
after  an  absence  of  ninety-four  days.  My  papers 
had  been  so  thoroughly  wetted  that  I had  great  dif- 
ficulty in  deciphering  them,  so  as  to  prepare  from 
them  a chart  of  the  country  through  which  we  had 
travelled. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Fourth  Journey  on  the  Polar  Sea.— Survey  of  the  Coast  as  far 
as  the  Island  of  Koliutschin. 

The  winter  of  1822-3  was  generally  considered 
a very  mild  one  at  Nishne  Kolymsk  : the  tempera- 
ture was  only  once  as  low  as  — 51°  (on  the  10th  of 
January),  and  auroras  were  rare  and  not  so  brilliant 
as  usual. 

While  we  were  engaged  in  various  preparations 
for  our  spring  expedition  over  the  ice,  and  in  arran- 
ging our  surveys  and  other  papers,  we  were  cheered 
by  the  arrival  of  M.  Tarabukin,  who  had  been  re- 
cently appointed  to  the  command  of  the  Kolymsk 
district,  and  who  took  a warm  interest  in  the  suc- 
cess of  our  enterprise. 

The  fisheries  on  the  Kolyma  had  been  generally 
successful,  and  the  sickness  among  the  dogs  having 
entirely  ceased,  their  numbers  had  again  augment- 
ed. These  circumstances  were  highly  favourable 
for  obtaining  the  requisite  means  for  our  journey ; 
and  M.  Tarabukin,  always  just  and  considerate  to- 


MANAGEMENT  OF  DOGS. 


245 


wards  the  inhabitants,  by  his  judicious  exertions, 
guided  by  a thorough  knowledge  of  the  people  and 
country,  obtained  for  us  in  due  time  all  the  provis- 
ions we  were  in  want  of.  Knowing  from  experi- 
ence the  great  uncertainty  of  procuring  a sufficient 
supply  of  dogs,  and  the  large  proportion  which 
would  probably  be  found  useless  when  collected,  I 
applied  to  the  inhabitants  on  the  banks  of  the  Indi- 
girka, the  Chroma,  and  the  Jana,  whose  dogs  are 
usually  well  trained,  as  well  as  to  those  of  the  Ko- 
lymsk  district,  and  travelled  myself  to  those  rivers 
in  November,  remaining  a few  days  at  Ustjansk, 
where  Lieutenant  Anjou  gave  me  every  assistance 
in  his  power.*  Having  received  the  promise  of  fif- 
teen good  teams  of  dogs,  with  provisions  for  them 

* The  choice  of  dogs  is  a most  material  point.  A team 
should  always  be  well  accustomed  to  draw  together ; they  learn 
to  aid  each  other,  by  which  they  are  saved  much  fatigue,  and 
their  driver  much  trouble.  The  dogs  of  the  Jana  and  Indigirka 
are  preferable  to  those  of  the  Kolyma  on  this  account,  and  also 
because  they  are  used  to  much  longer  journeys,  both  over  the 
ice  to  New- Siberia  and  over  the  Tundras.  A well-loaded  sledge 
requires  twelve  dogs ; but  the  foremost  sledge  should  have  one 
more,  which  must  be  trained  as  a leader  with  peculiar  care,  that 
he  may  neither  be  liable  to  be  tempted  from  the  route  by  the 
scent  of  game,  nor  turned  aside  by  any  difficulty,  and  may  swim 
across  open  places  when  necessary.  Dogs  that  are  to  be  used 
for  a distant  journey  should  be  treated  with  great  care  for  a 
long  time  beforehand,  and  be  allowed  good  food  and  sufficient 
rest ; when  this  has  been  done,  they  usually  show  the  good  con- 
dition they  are  in  by  changing  the  whole  of  their  coat  in  sum- 
mer, which  is  only  partially  the  case  with  weak  and  ill-kept 
dogs.  When  winter  has  set  in,  and  the  time  for  travelling  ap- 
proaches, they  should  be  carefully  prepared  for  it.  For  a fort- 
night previous  to  their  first  journey  they  must  be  put  on  a small- 
er allowance  of  hard  food,  to  convert  their  superfluous  fat  into 
firmer  flesh.  They  are  at  the  same  time  to  be  exercised,  by 
being  driven  from  ten  to  at  the  outside  thirty  wersts,  halting  and 
resting  regularly  every  four  or  five  wersts.  After  this  they  will 
travel  150  wersts  a day  without  being  injured  by  it,  if  the  jour- 
ney be  not  of  very  long  continuance,  and  the  cold  not  very  se- 
vere : in  such  cases  the  days’  journeys  must  be  proportionably 
shortened. 


X2 


246  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

for  two  months,  I returned  to  Nishne  Kolymsk, 
which  I reached  at  the  close  of  the  year. 

Our  great  journey  could  not  be  begun  till  late  in 
February;  but  on  the  30th  of  January,  1823,  M. 
Kosmin  started  with  two  sledges  for  the  Bear  Isl- 
ands, to  ascertain  beyond  doubt  the  true  position  of 
Krestowoi  Island,  and  to  assure  himself  of  the  ex- 
istence or  non-existence  of  the  other  island  of  the 
same  name  of  which  we  had  been  told.  He  return- 
ed on  the  I7th  of  February,  after  a journey  which 
the  season  had  rendered  particularly  arduous,  and 
gave  me  a very  accurate  survey  of  the  islands  gener- 
ally, and  of  Krestowoi  in  particular.  As  he  had  made 
a thorough  examination  of  the  space  around  for  a 
considerable  distance,  without  discovering  any  isl- 
and besides  those  he  had  previously  visited,  it  may 
therefore  be  concluded  with  certainty  that  no  other 
island  exists. 

Not  only  our  own  people,  but  nearly  all  the  in- 
habitants of  Nishne  Kolymsk,  were  actively  engaged 
in  preparing  for  our  last  great  journey,  in  which  we 
hoped  to  complete  the  fulfilment  of  the  duties  con- 
fided to  us  by  our  instructions.  Old  sledges  were 
repaired  or  improved,  new  ones  made,  our  travelling- 
tent  put  in  order,  &c.  I found  that  I should  have  a 
sufficient  number  of  sledges  and  dogs  to  enable  me 
to  divide  the  expedition  into  two  parts,  one  of  which, 
under  M.  Matiuschkin,  would  survey  the  coast  of  the 
Tschuktschi  country  as  far  as  Cape  North,  while 
the  other,  under  my  own  command,  should  proceed 
in  search  of  the  supposed  northern  land.  Dr.  Kyber 
joined  M.  Matiuschkin,  as  the  coast  might  be  expect- 
ed to  afford  more  that  was  interesting  in  natural  his- 
tory than  the  ice  of  the  sea,  and  I was  accompanied 
by  M.  Kosmin. 

On  hearing  that  the  dogs  had  arrived  from  the 
west,  I went  on  the  22d  of  February,  with  M.  Tara- 
bukin,  to  Pochodsk  to  receive  them,  but,  unfortu- 
nately, we  found  the  greater  part  altogether  too 


PROVISIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY.  247 


weak  to  be  depended  upon  for  a journey  over  the 
Polar  Sea,  The  few  good  ones  we  took  with  us  to 
Sucharnoje,  where  sixty  chosen  dogs,  the  establish- 
ment for  five  sledges,  had  been  previously  collected, 
and  on  the  26th  we  took  our  departure  along  the 
coast  to  the  eastward.  On  the  1st  of  March  we 
were  overtaken  by  a Cossack,  who  had  been  sent 
on  from  Nishne  Kolymsk  with  despatches  and  in- 
structions from  the  governor  general  of  Siberia.*  I 
sent  back  with  him  two  of  the  Indigirka  sledges,  as 
the  dogs  showed  symptoms  of  an  infectious  distem- 
per. We  continued  our  journey  with  nineteen 
sledges,  and  reached  the  same  day  the  balagan  which 
we  had  built  near  the  Baranicha,  and  which  afforded 
us  a very  welcome  shelter,  the  cold  having  increased 
to  —42°. 

We  now  proceeded  to  distribute  and  pack  the 
stores  which  we  found  here,  as  well  as  those  which 
we  had  brought  with  us.  Our  provisions  consisted 
of  7|  pood  of  rye  biscuit,  6 pood  of  frozen  fresh 
meaf,  3|  pood  of  grits,  1 pood  of  saturan,\  1260  ju~ 
kola,  224  salmon-trout,  12  geese,  12  lbs.  of  tea,  10 
lbs.  of  sugar,  15  lbs.  of  sugar-candy,  8 jars  of  spir- 
its, 20  lbs.  of  salt,  20  lbs.  of  oil,  1 pood  of  Circas- 
sian tobacco,  5 pood  of  train  oil,  and  some  firewood. 
For  the  dogs  we  had  7580  juchala  and  jukola,  4116 
herrings,  and  some  other  fish.  Besides  the  provis- 
ions we  carried  a uro^ss  or  tent  made  of  reindeer 
skins,  2 crowbars,  2 spades,  a tea  and  a soup  kettle 
with  an  iron  trivet,  5 guns,  5 pikes,  100  cartridges, 
a pocket-lantern  and  some  wax-lights,  2 sextants,  2 
artificial  horizons,  a pocket  chronometer,  3 tele- 

These  papers  had  been  conveyed  the  enormous  distance  of 
11,000  worsts  fiom  St  Petersburgh  to  the  mouth  of  the  Bere- 
sowaja  on  the  Polar  Sea,  in  only  eighty-eight  days  (including  a 
short  detention  at  Irkuzk  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  up  instruc- 
tions conformably  to  the  orders  received  from  the  capital).  The 
ordinary  post  would  have  required  at  least  six  months  and  a half 
for  the  journey.  t See  page  85. 


248  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

scopes,  a dip  circle,  2 pocket  azimuth  compasses,  2 
spirit  thermometers,  1 lb.  of  quicksilver,  and  a sound- 
ing-line. It  took  us  three  days  to  arrange  all  these 
articles  in  our  sledges ; and  on  the  4th  of  March, 
when  we  were  ready  to  start,  we  were  detained  by 
a tremendous  storm  from  the  W.N.W.  We  thought 
the  balagan  would  have  been  blown  down  by  the 
force  of  the  wind,  but  it  stood,  and  afforded  us  shel- 
ter : the  temperature  was  — 24^,  and  our  dogs  and 
sledges  were  buried  in  the  snow.  On  the  5th,  the 
storm  having  nearly  subsided,  we  dug  them  out, 
and,  resuming  our  journey,  arrived  on  the  8th  at 
Cape  Schelagskoj,  where  we  were  accidentally 
brought  into  contact  with  a people  with  whom  we 
had  long  wished  in  vain  to  become  better  acquainted. 

M.  Kosmin  and  myself  had  gone  some  way  in  ad- 
vance to  select  a good  halting-place,  when  we  saw 
coming  towards  us  a sledge  drawn  by  reindeer  and 
driven  by  a Tschuktsehi.  He  stopped  at  a short 
distance  and  called  to  us  ; but,  perceiving  that  we  did 
not  understand  him,  he  made  signs  to  us  to  come 
nearer : we  did  so  ; and,  as  I was  extremely  anxious 
not  to  lose  so  favourable  an  opportunity,  I made  every 
sign  I could  think  of  to  detain  him  till  we  could  be 
joined  by  the  interpreter.  I do  not  know  whether 
he  comprehended  me,  but,  without  showing  the  least 
fear  or  embarrassment,  he  got  out  of  his  sledge,  and 
held  out  his  gansa  or  pipe  to  ask  for  tobacco : we 
immediately  gave  him  some,  and  he  began  to  smoke 
very  composedly.  After  a few  minutes  he  repeated 
several  times  the  word  Катакац  which  means  elder 
or  leader,  and  then,  suddenly  getting  into  his  sledge 
again,  we  soon  lost  sight  of  him  among  the  hum- 
mocks. 

In  the  evening,  when  we  were  all  assembled,  we 
received  a visit  from  three  Tschuktsehi,  two  of 
whom  were  in  sledges,  and  the  third  ran  along  by 
their  side,  driving  the  reindeer.  As  they  approached 
our  camp,  one  of  those  in  the  sledges  began  to  make 


TSCHüKTSCHI  CHIEF. 


249 


numerous  signs,  apparently  to  indicate  that  they 
were  unarmed,  and  had  no  hostile  intentions.  They 
stopped  at  the  circle  of  sledges  which  surrounded 
our  camp,  and  one  of  them,  a little  man  of  about  sixty 
years  old,  dressed  in  a loose,  wide  garment  of  skin, 
fearlessly  passed  the  barrier,  and  told  us  that  he 
was  the  катакац  or  chief  of  the  tribe  of  Tschuktschi 
settled  near  Tschaun  Bay.  His  quick  and  decided 
movements  indicated  a powerful  frame ; and  the  lit- 
tle fiery  eyes  which  glanced  from  under  his  short, 
coarse  hair,  showed  resolution  and  the  habit  of  self- 
dependance.  After  the  first  greeting  “ Toroma,”* 
he  offered  me  a piece  of  seal  and  some  fresh  bear’s 
meat.  I took  him  into  the  tent,  and  entertained  him 
with  the  best  we  had,  tobacco,  fish,  &c.  His  beha- 
viour was  as  calm  and  unembarrassed  as  if  we  had 
been  old  acquaintance,  and  with  the  interpreter’s 
help  a long  conversation  ensued. 

He  was  principally  desirous  of  knowing  what  had 
induced  us  to  travel  so  far  at  this  cold  season,  how 
many  there  were  of  us,  and  whether  we  were  arm- 
ed. We  gave  him  true  answers,  and  endeavoured 
to  explain  the  objects  of  our  journey,  and  to  assure 
him  of  our  peaceable  views  and  feelings.  Our  ap- 
pearance had  obviously  created  uneasiness,  and  his 
piercing  and  restless  eyes  followed  our  slightest 
movements.  He  answered  our  questions  in  return 
with  good-humoured  frankness.  W^e  asked  wheth- 
er his  people  had  seen  the  cross  which  we  had 
erected  at  Cape  Schelagskoj  in  1820.  He  said  that 
they  had,  and  had  left  it  untouched,  adding  that  he 
himself  was  the  first  to  discover  it,  and  that  he  had 
been  the  more  surprised,  as  no  footsteps  or  traces 
of  men  were  visible  on  the  drifted  snow.  The  seal 
and  bear  hunting  had  been  particularly  successful 
that  spring,  and  his  tribe  had  attributed  it  to  the 


* The  Tschuktschi  pronunciation  of  the  Russian  salutation 
Sdorowof  which  they  have  learned  at  the  fair  of  Ostrownoje. 


250  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


cross,  and  had  sacrificed  a young  лѵЫіе  reindeer 
before  it.* 

He  told  us  that  there  was  no  permanent  settlement 
at  Cape  Schelagskoj,  but  that  they  usually  came 
there  at  this  season  to  hunt  the  white  bears,  which 
they  pursue  among  the  hummocks,  and  kill  with 
spears.  In  the  course  of  conversation,  the  old  man 
informed  us  of  his  own  accord  that  he  was  descend- 
ed from  the  Schelagi,  or,  as  they  are  usually  called 
by  the  Tschuktschi,  the  Tschewany,  who  many 
years  since  migrated  towards  the  west,  and  have 
not  since  been  seen. 

The  first  of  these  names  has  been  preserved  in 
that  of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  and  the  second  in  that  of 
Tschewan  or  Tschaun  Bay  and  River.  Our  guest 
took  his  leave  after  a visit  of  two  hours,  well  pleased 
with  his  reception  and  with  some  little  presents 
which  I made  him  at  parting. 

On  the  9th  of  March  the  kamakai  repeated  his  vis- 
it, with  his  wives  and  children,  and  a young  man 
Avhom  he  introduced  as  his  nephew.  As  we  were 
drinking  tea  when  they  arrived,  we  offered  them 
some ; but,  on  sipping  it,  they  all  showed  signs  of 
great  dislike,  and  took  up  a handful  of  snowf  from 
the  ground  to  get  rid  of  the  taste  ; they  were  much 
pleased,  however,  with  the  sugar  which  лѵе  next 
offered  them.  It  is  surprising  that  the  quantity  of 
tobacco  which  they  use  both  in  smoking  and  chew- 
ing should  not  blunt  the  sensibility  of  their  taste. 
The  nephew  was  particularly  pleased  with  the  sugar, 
and  told  us  he  had  eaten  some  before  at  Ostrow- 
noje,  when  he  was  baptized  there.  I questioned 

* A cross  erected  by  a Russian  priest  near  the  Tsehaiin  River 
had  been  pulled  down  and  burned  by  the  Tschuktschi  at  that 
place,  from  their  believing  that  since  it  bad  been  placed  t.here 
the  number  of  fish  in  the  river  had  diminished. 

•f  We  afterward  observed  that  it  is  a common  practice  with 
them  to  eat  snow  after  every  meal,  even  when  the  weather  ie 
very  cold. 


REPORT  OF  LAx\D  TO  THE  NORTH.  251 

him  farther  on  this  subject,  but  he  could  tell  me  no- 
thing, and  referred  me  to  his  wife  even  for  the  name 
which  had  been  given  him.  She  remembered  it,  as 
well  as  her  own,  and  showed  me  the  small  metal 
crosses  which  she  and  her  husband  had  received  at 
the  time,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  Russian 
Church,  but  her  knowledge  went  no  farther.  While 
our  attention  was  occupied  by  these  inquiries,  her 
little  son  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  pilfer 
a knife  and  some  beads,  which  he  hid  in  his  fur 
shirt.  I was  unwilling  to  disturb  the  general  good 
understanding,  and  therefore  took  no  notice  of  the 
child’s  theft. 

The  kamakai  was  a very  civilized  person  in  his 
way.  When  I had  fully  acquainted  him  with  the 
object  of  our  journey,  and  had  apparently  succeeded 
in  satisfying  him  that  we  had  no  designs  against 
him  or  his  people,  but  that  we  were  come  to  examine 
the  form  and  situation  of  their  coast,  and  to  learn 
by  what  route  Russians  could  best  bring  them  tobac- 
co and  other  articles  for  barter,  he  not  only  gave  me 
an  accurate  description  of  the  limits  of  his  country, 
which  extends  from  the  great  Baranicha  to  Cape 
North,  but  also  drew  for  us,  with  a piece  of  burned 
wood,  the  form  of  Cape  Schelagskoj,  which  he  call- 
ed Erri ; Arautan  Island,  which  was  correctly  rep- 
resented both  as  to  form  and  position  ; and  another 
island  to  the  east  of  the  Cape,  which  we  afterward 
found  there.  He  farther  assured  us,  in  the  most  pos- 
itive manner,  that  there  was  no  other  island  along 
the  coast.  When  I asked  him  whether  there  was 
any  other  land  to  the  north  beyond  the  visible  hori- 
zon, he  seemed  to  reflect  a little,  and  then  said  that 
between  Cape  Erri  (Schelagskojy  and  Cape  Ir-Kai- 
pij  (Cape  North)  there  was  a part  of  the  coast  where, 
from  some  cliffs  near  the  month  of  a river,  one  might,  in 
a clear  summer'' s day,  descry  snow-covered  mountains  at 
a great  distance  to  the  north,  but  that  in  winter  it  was 
impossible  to  see  so  far.  He  said  that  formerly  herds 


252  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

of  reindeer  sometimes  came  across  the  ice  of  the 
sea,  probably  from  thence,  but  that  they  had  been 
frightened  back  by  hunters  and  by  wolves  ; that  he 
had  himself  once  seen  a herd  returning  to  the  north 
in  this  way,  in  the  month  of  April,  and  that  he  had 
followed  them  in  a sledge  drawn  by  two  reindeer 
for  a whole  day,  until  the  rugged  surface  of  the  ice 
forced  him  to  desist.  His  opinion  was,  that  these 
distant  mountains  were  not  on  an  island,  but  on  an 
extensive  land  similar  to  his  own  country.  He  had 
been  told  by  his  father  that  a Tschuktschi  elder  had 
once  gone  there  with  a few  followers,  in  large  Ъаі~ 
dars,  or  boats  made  of  skin,  but  what  they  found 
there,  or  whether  they  ever  returned,  he  did  not 
know.  Still  he  maintained  that  the  distant  northern 
land  was  inhabited,  and  adduced  as  a proof  of  it 
that  some  years  ago  a dead  whale  had  been  found  at 
Arautan  Island,  pierced  by  spears  pointed  with  slate  ; 
and  as  the  Tschuktschi  do  not  use  such  weapons,  he 
supposed  that  the  whale  must  have  been  wounded 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  land.* 

I thanked  the  old  man  for  his  readiness  in  answer- 
ing all  our  questions,  and  made  him  a handsome 
present,  promising  at  the  same  time  that,  if  his  in- 
formation proved  to  be  well  founded,  the  government 
would  not  fail  to  reward  him  bountifully.  He  was 
extremely  grateful,  and  entreated  me  to  get  the  em- 
peror to  send  him  an  iron  kettle  and  a sack  full  of 
tobacco,  which  he  said  лѵоііИ  make  him  completely 
happy.  I assured  him  that  I should  use  my  utmost 
exertions  towards  his  obtaining  his  wish,  and  soon 
afterward  he  and  his  party  left  us,  much  pleased 
with  our  acquaintance,  and  with  our  reception  of 
them. 

I availed  myself  of  the  fine  clear  weather  to  take 

* The  inhabitants  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  use  spears  pointed 
with  slate  in  killing  whales  ; and  as  those  animals  are  known  to 
swim  great  distances  in  a very  short  time,  it  is  very  possible  that 
the  whale  found  at  Arautan  may  have  come  from  thence. 


CAPE  KYBER. 


253 


a meridian  altitude  and  22  lunar  distances,  by  which 
I found  the  latitude  of  the  isthmus  to  be  70°  3',  and 
its  longitude  1710  3'  E.,  the  variation  being  18°  3'  Б. 

On  the  10th  we  continued  our  journey  to  the  east- 
ward, with  a temperature  of  — 26^°,  and  a violent  W. 
N.W.  wind,  which  repeatedly  blew  over  the  sledges. 
Some  of  the  party  were  so  much  delayed  by  these 
accidents  that  they  lost  sight  of  the  leading  sledges ; 
and  the  thick-falling  snow  often  making  it  impossi- 
ble to  distinguish  the  line  of  coast,  they  went  astray 
for  a time,  until  they  were  warned  by  the  increasing 
size  of  the  hummocks  that  they  were  getting  farther 
from  the  shore. 

The  coast  continues  steep  and  rocky  for  eighteen 
wersts,  to  the  mouth  of  a river,  where  we  halted 
and  repaired  our  sledges.  On  the  11th  the  wind 
fell,  and  the  temperature  was  — 11°  in  the  morning, 
and  — 24°  in  the  evening.  At  noon  we  reached  the 
Kosmin  Rock,  and  by  a meridian  altitude  determin- 
ed its  latitude  to  be  70°  Г,  its  longitude  being  171° 
55'  by  reckoning,  and  the  variation  18°  E.  From 
this  rock  the  shore  becomes  uneven  and  hilly.  We 
saw  several  large  heaps  of  whalebones,  but  very 
little  driftwood.  We  crossed  over  a stream,  and  halt- 
ed for  the  night  twenty-four  wersts  beyond  the  Kos- 
min Rock,  at  the  wide  mouth  of  a river  called  by 
the  Tschuktschi  Werkon.  The  two  points  of  land 
between  which  it  enters  the  sea  are  11|  geographi- 
cal miles  apart  f the  eastern  shore  is  low,  and  cov- 
ered with  coarse  gravelly  sand ; the  western  rocky, 
and  forming  a steep  promontory  280  feet  high,  to 
which  I gave  the  name  of  Cape  Kyber.  Above  the 
rocks  rises  a conical  mountain,  called  by  the  Tschukt- 
schi Etschonin.  There  was  a good  deal  of  drift- 
wood on  the  sandy  beach. 

About  three  and  a half  wersts  north  of  Cape  Ky- 
ber there  is  a rocky  island  of  two  and  a half  wersts 
in  circumference,  entirely  surrounded  by  hummocks. 

I subsequently  learned  that  the  Tschuktschi  call  it 


254  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Amgaoton.  I gave  it  the  name  of  Schalaurow,  after 
the  man  whose  enterprise,  courage,  and  perseve- 
rance, and,  finally,  whose  death  in  these  regions, 
well  deserved  that  his  name  should  be  so  recorded. 

Part  of  the  shore  of  Schalaurow  Island  is  cover- 
ed with  heaps  of  the  bones  of  whales  ; these  are 
probably  the  remains  of  the  dwellings  of  a people 
who  lived  on  seals  and  fish,  but  chiefly  on  whales, 
the  bones  of  which  were  employed  as  timber  in 
building  their  huts.  We  were  told  that  their  lan- 
guage was  very  different  from  that  of  the  wander- 
ing reindeer  Tschuktschi,  and  resembled  that  of  the 
people  who  live  near  Behring’s  Straits  in  mud  huts, 
supported  on  the  inside  by  whalebones,  and  having 
their  only  entrance  from  above.  They  are  the  same 
race  as  the  Aleutians  and  the  Greenlanders,  which 
have  peopled  the  coasts  from  the  eastern  paVt  of 
North  America,  along  the  Polar  Sea  to  Cape  Sche- 
lagskoj. 

On  the  13th  we  had  a light  breeze  from  the  west, 
with  a thin  mist,  and  a temperature  of  — 11°  in  the 
morning,  and  — 24°  in  the  evening.  After  taking 
from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  river  as  much  drift- 
wood  as  our  sledges  could  carry,  we  left  the  coast, 
and  directed  our  course  over  the  ice  towards  the 
north.  Having  proceeded  four  wersts  from  the  shore, 
we  deposited  some  of  our  provisions  in  the  ice,  with 
the  precautions  before  described,  and  sent  back  the 
empty  sledges  to  the  Kolyma.  The  ice  here  was 
not  above  three  feet  thick,  the  depth  of  water  five 
fathoms,  and  the  bottom  green  mud. 

On  the  14th,  after  going  17  wersts  in  a N.N.E.  di- 
rection over  a tolerably  even  surface,  with  a temper- 
ature of  from  — 24°  to  — 31°,  we  came  to  some  very 
rugged  hummocks,  where  we  could  only  make  our 
way  with  crowbars,  and  with  so  much  labour  that 
the  evening  found  us  completely  exhausted,  after 
having  accomplished  only  three  wersts  more. 

On  the  15th  the  cold  diminished  a little,  the  tern- 


BREAKING  UP  OF  THE  ICE. 


255 


perature  being  — 13°,  and  the  sky  overcast.  After 
toiling  the  whole  day  with  our  crowbars,  we  had 
only  advanced  five  wersts,  and  the  sledges  were  so 
seriously  injured  that  it  was  necessary  to  halt  to  re- 
pair them.  About  the  middle  of  the  day  we  came 
to  a fissure  in  the  ice,  which  I availed  myself  of  to 
obtain  soundings,  and  found  nineteen  fathoms,  with 
a bottom  of  mud  and  sand. 

Convinced  of  the  impossibility  of  forcing  our  way 
through  these  rugged  hummocks  with  our  heavily- 
loaded  sledges,  I determined  to  send  back  eight  of 
them,  and  to  deposite  where  we  were  the  greater 
part  of  our  provisions.  We  excavated  two  recep- 
tacles for  the  purpose,  and  placed  in  them  a supply 
for  twenty-three  days  for  men  and  dogs.  With  the 
four  remaining  sledges  and  five  people,  M.  Kosmin 
and  myself  resolved,  if  it  were  possible,  to  advance 
towards  the  north.  It  being  absolutely  necessary 
to  carry  but  little  weight,  we  took  with  us  provisions 
for  only  about  five  days,  and  a very  small  quantity 
of  fuel.  Our  observed  latitude  was  70°  12",  and  our 
longitude  by  reckoning  174°  E. 

On  the  17th,  violent  wind  and  snow  prevented  us 
from  commencing  our  journey,  and  increased  in  the 
night  to  a tempest,  which  broke  up  the  ice  in  such 
a manner  that  we  found  ourselves  on  a detached 
island  of  it  about  fifty  fathoms  in  diameter.  The 
storm  continuing  to  rage,  we  were  tossed  to  and  fro, 
and  the  fissures  on  every  side  of  us  opened  wider 
and  wider,  till  some  of  them  were  fifteen  fathoms 
across.  Thus  we  passed  part  of  the  night,  fully 
aware  that  we  were  in  no  small  danger.  At  length 
the  day  broke,  and  brought  with  it  a favourable 
change  of  wind,  pressing  the  fragment  of  ice  on 
which  we  were  against  the  rest,  and  by  the  evening 
we  were  again  in  contact  and  connexion  with  the 
firm  ice.  The  depth  of  water  was  nineteen  fathoms. 

On  the  19th  the  storm  had  subsided  and  the  sky 
becam-e  clear,  but  we  saw  plainly  to  the  north  the 


256  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


dark  vapours  which  rise  from  open  water,  and  which 
left  us  but  little  hope  of  the  possibility  of  making 
any  considerable  advance  in  that  direction.  We  did 
not  give  up  the  attempt,  however,  but  used  our  ut- 
most exertions  throughout  the  day  to  open  a path 
for  ourselves  among  the  hummocks  : in  some  places 
we  had  to  go  a long  way  round  to  avoid  the  wide 
lanes  of  open  water,  and  in  others  we  crossed  over 
the  new  ice  just  formed,  which  would  hardly  bear 
us  ; but,  when  evening  came,  we  had  only  made  ten 
wersts,  and  were  still  in  sight  of  the  coast. 

On  the  20th  the  weather  was  calm  and  fine,  the 
northern  horizon  of  a dark  blue,  and  the  thermome- 
ter at  — 11°.  The  hummocks  to  the  north  of  us  now 
becoming  absolutely  impassable,  we  tried  to  take  a 
W.N.W.  direction;  but,  after  advancing  about  eight 
wersts,  we  came  to  a space  at  least  five  wersts 
across,  only  covered  by  a thin  crust  of  ice,  which, 
from  its  perfect  smoothness,  we  knew  to  be  just 
formed.  Going  round  it  was  out  of  the  question,  as 
it  extended  farther  than  the  eye  could  reach,  from 
W.N.W  to  E.S.E.  We  halted  for  the  night  near  its 
margin,  the  depth  of  water  being  19 J fathoms,  the 
bottom  mud  and  sand. 

Our  first  care  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  was  to 
examine  the  possibility  of  our  proceeding  farther. 
Beyond  the  thin  ice  the  hummocks  appeared  to  be 
of  old  formation,  and  less  steep  and  crowded,  so  that 
we  might  hope  to  find  them  passable  if  we  could  but 
reach  them.  This,  however,  could  only  be  done  by 
trusting  to  the  newly-formed  ice,  and  opinions  were 
divided  as  to  the  possibility  of  its  bearing  us.  I de- 
termined, however,  to  try,  and  the  adventure  suc- 
ceeded better  than  could  have  been  hoped  for,  owing 
to  the  incredibly  swift  running  of  the  dogs,  to  which, 
doubtless,  we  owed  our  safety.  The  leading  sledge 
actually  broke  through  in  several  places ; but  the 
dogs,  warned  of  the  danger  by  their  natural  instinct, 
and  animated  by  the  incessant  cries  of  the  driver, 


THINNESS  OF  THE  ICE. 


257 


flew  so  rapidly  across  the  yielding  crust  that  we 
reached  the  other  side  in  safety,  and  without  in  any 
place  absolutely  sinking  through.  The  other  three 
sledges  followed  with  similar  rapidity,  each  across 
such  part  as  appeared  to  be  most  promising,  and 
we  were  now  all  safely  assembled  on  the  north  side 
of  the  fissure.  It  was  necessary  to  halt  for  a while 
to  let  the  dogs  recover  a little  from  their  extraordi- 
nary exertions. 

I availed  myself  of  the  delay  to  take  a meridian 
altitude,  which  gave  our  latitude  70°  20' ; the  longi- 
tude, deduced  by  angles  from  points  visible  on  the 
mainland,  being  174°  13',  and  the  variation  21|°  E. 
We  profited  by  the  light  of  a beautiful  aurora  in  the 
N.E.  quarter  to  continue  our  journey  till  the  night 
was  far  advanced,  when  we  had  accomplished  twen- 
ty-four wersts  since  noon  among  old  hummocks  and 
loose  snow,  which  afforded  comparatively  easy  trav- 
elling. 

The  morning  of  the  22d  was  fine,  but  towards  noon 
a gale  sprung  up  from  the  west,  with  thick  drifting 
snow,  which  often  placed  us  in  great  danger,  by  con- 
cealing the  open  places  till  the  foremost  dogs  of  a 
team  had  fallen  in,  the  sledges  narrowly  escaping 
from  being  dragged  in  after  them.  After  cautiously 
advancing  for  twenty- four  wersts  N.  by  E.,  I sound- 
ed, and  found  twenty-one  fathoms  water,  with  clay 
and  fine  sand.  We  proceeded  ten  wersts  farther, 
and  slept  among  a group  of  hummocks  surrounded 
by  fissures.  During  the  night  the  wind  rose,  and 
again  widened  the  openings  in  the  ice ; fortunately, 
however,  it  subsided  before  morning,  and  we  suc- 
ceeded in  escaping  from  our  island  by  forming  a 
kind  of  bridge  of  loose  fragments  of  ice. 

In  addition  to  the  serious  difficulties  presented  by 
the  state  of  the  ice,  the  provisions  for  our  dogs  were 
beginning  to  fail.  To  make  them  hold  out  as  long 
as  possible,  I sent  back  two  sledges  to  the  last  de- 
oosite,  dividing  their  share  among  the  two  which  I 
Y2 


258  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

still  retained,  and  with  these  we  resumed  our  route 
to  the  north,  more  for  the  satisfaction  of  leaving  no- 
thing undone  that  it  was  possible  to  do,  than  with 
any  hope  of  a favourable  result.  Till  noon  on  the 
23d  of  March  we  had  clear  weather,  with  a light 
breeze,  which  towards  the  afternoon  became  fresh, 
with  gathering  clouds  ; while  from  N.W.  to  N.E.  the 
horizon  was  obscured  by  the  dense  blue  vapour 
which  in  these  regions  always  indicates  open  wa- 
ter. Notwithstanding  this  sure  token  of  the  impos- 
sibility of  proceeding  much  farther,  we  continued 
our  course  due  north  for  about  nine  wersts,  when 
we  arrived  at  the  edge  of  an  immense  break  in  the 
ice,  extending  east  and  west  farther  than  the  eye 
could  reach,  and  which  at  the  narrowest  part  was 
more  than  150  fathoms  across.  The  strong  wester- 
ly wind  was  constantly  widening  the  gap,  while  the 
current  was  running  easterly  at  the  rate  of  a knot 
and  a half.  We  climbed  one  of  the  loftiest  icehills, 
affording  an  extensive  view  towards  the  north,  and 
from  thence  we  beheld  the  wide  immeasurable  ocean 
spread  out  before  our  gaze.  It  was  a fearful  and 
magnificent  spectacle,  though  to  us  a melancholy 
one.  Fragments  of  ice  of  enormous  size  were  float- 
ing on  the  surface  of  the  agitated  ocean,  and  were 
dashed  by  the  waves  with  awful  violence  against  the 
edge  of  the  field  on  the  farther  side  of  the  channel 
before  us.  These  collisions  were  so  tremendous 
that  large  masses  were  every  instant  broken  away, 
and  it  was  evident  that  the  portion  of  ice  which  still 
divided  the  channel  from  the  open  sea  would  soon 
be  completely  destroyed.  Had  we  made  the  attempt 
to  ferry  ourselves  across  upon  one  of  the  detached 
pieces  of  ice,  there  лѵоиИ  have  been  no  firm  footing 
on  reaching  the  opposite  side.  Even  on  our  own 
side  fresh  lanes  of  water  were  constantly  forming, 
and  extending  themselves  in  every  direction  in  the 
field  behind  us.  We  could  go  no  farther. 

With  a painful  feeling  of  the  impossibility  of  over- 


LANES  OP  OPEN  WATER. 


259 


coming  the  obstacles  which  nature  opposed  to  us, 
our  last  hope  now  vanished  of  discovering  the  land 
which  we  still  believed  to  exist ; and  we  saw  our- 
selves compelled  to  renounce  the  object  for  which 
we  had  striven  through  three  years  of  hardships, 
toil,  and  danger.  We  had  done,  however,  all  that  du- 
ty and  honour  demanded  ; and  any  farther  attempts 
being  totally  hopeless,  I determined  to  return. 

According  to  my  reckoning,  the  point  from  which 
we  were  compelled  to  turn  back  was  in  latitude  70° 
5Г,  and  longitude  175o  27\  Our  distance  from  the 
mainland,  in  a direct  line,  was  105  wersts.  We  had 
22|  fathoms  water,  with  a clay  bottom. 

We  proceeded  rapidly  along  our  old  track  towards 
the  coast,  and,  though  impeded  by  several  fresh 
openings  formed  during  our  short  absence,  we  made 
thirty-five  wersts  before  halting  for  the  night  in  a 
group  of  old  hummocks. 

On  the  24th  we  set  off  early,  with  a moderate 
breeze  from  the  west,  and  a temperature  of  — 8°. 
We  had  every  reason  to  make  all  possible  haste,  for 
our  old  track,  which  we  endeavoured  to  follow  as 
much  as  possible,  was  frequently  interrupted  by 
fresh  hummocks,  piled  up  since  the  day  before,  a 
proof  of  the  very  dangerous  state  of  the  ice.  We 
had  to  ferry  ourselves  across  many  fresh  breaks,  on 
pieces  of  ice  which  were  sometimes  too  small  to 
hold  a sledge  with  its  team  of  dogs.  In  such  cases 
we  made  the  dogs  swim,  and  help  to  tow  us  over, 
but  the  strong  current  which  generally  prevailed  in 
these  lanes  of  open  water  rendered  this  a matter 
of  no  small  difficulty.  Not  far  from  our  last  de- 
posite  of  provisions  the  current  set  E.S.E.,  with  a 
velocity  of  four  miles  an  hour ; the  temperature  of 
the  sea  at  this  place  was  +28°,  while  that  of  the 
air  was  +9i°.  At  night  we  reached  our  deposite, 
where  we  found  the  two  sledges  we  had  sent  back, 
and  our  provisions  safe. 

On  the  29th  we  had  a gentle  breeze  from  the  east, 


260  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


a thick  mist  concealing  from  us  the  coast  of  the 
continent.  In  the  morning  the  temperature  was 
— 2°,  and  in  the  evening  +10°.  The  strong  current 
ceased  with  the  change  of  wind,  and  many  of  the 
fissures  in  the  ice  closed  again.  Still  our  position 
on  this  frail  and  broken-up  surface,  which  the  first 
wind  from  the  sea  would  again  cause  to  separate, 
was  too  hazardous  to  admit  of  my  allowing  the  ex- 
hausted condition  of  the  dogs  to  detain  us  for  a mo- 
ment in  attempting  to  gain  the  coast.  As  we  were 
preparing  to  start,  our  best  sledge-driver  was  sud- 
denly seized  with  such  violent  pains  in  the  back 
that  he  could  not  raise  himself  up  : this  obliged  us 
to  remain  for  the  day,  to  try  what  our  scanty  means, 
which  were  merely  rest,  and  rubbing  with  spirits 
and  oil,  could  do  for  him.  I take  this  occasion  to 
give  to  our  drivers  the  praise  so  justly  their  due,  of 
having  shown  unwearied  courage,  patience,  and 
cheerfulness  amid  the  greatest  perils  and  toils,  as 
well  as  under  every  privation.  While  we  were 
thus  detained,  two  stone-foxes  were  discovered  near 
us,  and,  critical  as  was  our  situation,  the  innate  love 
of  the  chase  so  far  prevailed  that  the  three  other 
drivers,  instead  of  improving  the  opportunity  for 
re^t,  occupied  themselves  in  constructing  a couple 
of  very  ingenious  traps,  baited  with  a portion  of 
their  own  scanty  rations,  by  which  they  succeeded 
in  taking  one  of  the  animals  : the  other  was  found 
at  no  short  distance,  having  died  of  hunger. 

The  severity  of  the  cold  was  daily  decreasing. 
On  the  26th  of  March,  with  a mild  S.S.E.  breeze,  we 
had  in  the  morning  a temperature  of  +27°,  and 
+14°  in  the  evening.  Our  patient  was  better  for 
the  twenty- four  hours’  rest  we  had  given  him,  though 
wholly  unable  to  drive.  As  every  hour  increased 
the  danger  of  remaining  where  we  were,  M.  Kos- 
min,  always  ready  to  do  the  utmost  in  his  power, 
undertook  to  drive  the  sledge  himself,  putting  the 
sick  man  in  his  own  place.  We  could  not  by  any 


PERILOUS  SITUATION. 


261 


contrivance  manage  to  carry  all  our  provisions  with 
us,  and  we  had  only  to  hope  that  we  might  be  after- 
ward able  to  fetch  away  the  part  we  were  obliged  to 
leave.  After  driving  only  three  wersts,  we  found 
our  old  track  completely  obliterated  by  fresh  hum- 
mocks and  fissures,  which  rendered  our  advance  so 
difficult  that  we  were  at  last  forced  to  abandon  a 
part  of  the  stores  with  which  our  sledges  were  la- 
den. After  toiling  on  for  two  wersts  more,  we  found 
ourselves  surrounded  on  every  side  by  lanes  of  wa- 
ter, growing  wider  and  wider,  until  to  the  west  the 
sea  appeared  completely  open,  with  fragments  of 
floating  ice,  and  dark  vapours  ascending  from  it  and 
obscuring  the  whole  horizon.  To  the  south  we  still 
saw  what  seemed  a plain  of  ice,  but  it  consisted 
only  of  larger  fragments,  and  even  these  we  could 
not  reach,  as  we  were  separated  from  them  by  a 
wide  space  of  water.  Thus  cut  olf  in  every  quar- 
ter, we  awaited  the  night  with  the  utmost  anxiety : 
happily,  the  sea  and  air  were  calm,  and  this  circum- 
stance, with  the  expectation  of  a night-frost,  gave 
us  hope.  During  the  night  a gentle  breeze  sprung 
up  from  the  W.N.W.,  and  gradually  impelled  the 
ice-island  on  which  we  were  towards  the  east,  and 
nearer  to  the  larger  field  before  mentioned.  In  or- 
der to  get  over  the  remaining  space,  we  shoved  to- 
gether with  our  poles  the  smaller  pieces  of  ice 
which  were  floating  near  us,  and  formed  with  them 
a kind  of  bridge,  which  the  night-frost  cemented 
suificiently  to  admit  of  our  crossing  over  upon  it 
before  sunrise  on  the  27th.  We  had  hardly  pro- 
ceeded one  werst,  however,  when  w^e  found  our- 
selves in  a fresh  labyrinth  of  lanes  of  лѵаіег,  hem- 
ming us  in  on  every  side.  As  none  of  the  pieces 
floating  around  us  were  as  large  as  the  one  on  which 
we  stood,  which  was  seventy-five  fathoms  across, 
and  as  there  were  certain  indications  of  an  ap- 
proaching storm,  I thought  it  best  to  renaain  where 
we  were  ; and  thus  we  awaited  quietly  wdiatever 


262  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Providence  should  decree.  Dark  clouds  now  rose 
from  the  west,  and  the  whole  atmosphere  became 
filled  with  a dense  vapour;  while  a strong  breeze 
suddenly  springing  up  from  the  same  quarter,  in- 
creased in  less  than  half  an  hour  to  a gale.  Every 
moment  huge  masses  of  ice  floating  around  us 
were  dashed  against  each  other,  and  broken  into  a 
thousand  fragments.  Meanwhile  we  were  tossed 
to  and  fro  by  the  waves,  and  gazed  in  helpless  inac- 
tivity on  the  wild  conflict  of  the  elements,  expecting 
every  moment  to  be  swallowed  up.  We  had  been 
three  long  hours  in  this  painful  position,  and  still 
our  island  held  together,  when  suddenly  it  was 
caught  by  the  storm  and  hurled  against  a large  field 
of  ice:  the  crash  was  terrific,  and  we  felt  the  mass 
beneath  us  giving  way,  and  separating  in  every  di- 
rection. At  that  dreadful  moment,  when  destruc- 
tion seemed  inevitable,  the  impulse  of  self-preser- 
vation implanted  in  every  living  being  saved  us.  In- 
stinctively, and  with  the  quickness  of  thought,  we 
sprang  on  the  sledges,  and  urged  the  dogs  to  their 
utmost  speed  : they  flew  across  the  yielding  frag- 
ments to  the  field  against  which  we  had  been  strand- 
ed, and  safely  reached  a part  of  it  of  firmer  char- 
acter, on  which  were  several  hummocks,  and  here 
the  dogs  immediately  ceased  running,  apparently 
conscious  that  the  danger  was  passed.  We  were 
saved  ; and,  joyfully  embracing  each  other,  we  uni- 
ted in  thanks  to  God  for  our  preservation. 

But  the  continued  raging  of  the  tempest,  and  the 
loud  crashing  of  the  ice,  warned  us  to  make  no  de- 
lay, and,  after  a few  moments  repose,  we  hastened 
onward,  guided  by  our  view  of  the  coast,  to  our  first 
deposite  of  provisions,  four  wersts  from  the  shore. 
There  we  loaded  our  sledges  with  as  much  as  they 
could  carry,  and  before  it  was  entirely  dark  reached 
the  land. 

We  passed  the  night  near  the  mouth  of  the  W’er- 
kon,  where  an  overhanging  cliff  afforded  some  pro- 


CAPE  KUKURNOI. 


263 


tection  from  the  storm,  and  enabled  us  to  light  a 
fire,  and  to  refresh  ourselves  with  warm  tea  and 
some  food,  of  which  we  stood  greatly  in  need. 

On  the  28th  the  storm  subsided,  and  we  had  a mod- 
erate breeze  from  the  E.N.E.,  with  a clear  sky  and 
mild  air : in  the  morning  the  temperature  was 
and  in  the  evening  -[-3°.  We  spent  the  day  in  bring- 
ing away  the  provisions  which  still  remained  near 
the  coast,  and  the  calmer  state  of  the  weather  gave 
us  hopes  that  a steadj^  frost  might  yet  enable  us  to 
recover  those  which  had  been  left  at  our  more  north- 
ern deposite,  supposing  it  still  to  exist.  Such  an  in- 
crease of  our  means  would  have  been  very  accepta- 
ble to  us  on  our  journey  to  the  eastward,  as  we  could 
depend  but  little  on  receiving  any  assistance  from 
the  Tschuktschi. 

On  the  29th  I allowed  the  dogs  to  rest.  The 
weather  w^as  clear,  and  the  temperature  from  —8® 
to — 11°.  By  a meridian  altitude  I found  the  lati- 
tude of  the  north  point,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Wer- 
ken River,  to  be  69°  51',  its  longitude  by  reckoning 
173°  34' ; and  the  variation  was  18°  56'  E. 

The  cold  continuing,  and  on  the  30th  of  March 
increasing  to  — 15^,  I thought  it  not  improbable  that 
our  northern  deposite  of  provisions  might  be  reach- 
ed on  the  ice.  M.  Kosmin  started,  therefore,  with 
three  empty  sledges  to  make  the  attempt,  but  return- 
ed at  the  end  of  six  hours,  having  been  stopped  by 
wide  lanes  of  water,  which  had  not  been  frozen 
over.  During  his  absence  I surveyed  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  mouth  of  the  Werken,  which  consists 
of  a group  of  rounded  hills,  on  which  are  numerous 
pillars  or  columns,  similar  to  those  on  the  Baranow 
Rocks  : these  are  called  by  the  people  of  the  country 
Kekury.  The  hills  terminate  in  a low  headland  pro- 
jecting some  way  into  the  sea,  forming  the  eastern 
point  of  the  mouth  of  the  river.  I gave  to  the  whole 
promontory  the  name  of  Cape  Kukurnoi,  from  the 
above-mentioned  Kekury  or  columns.  It  bears  from 


264  vvrangei^l’s  polar  expedition. 


Cape  Kyber  S.  80°  E.,  distant  thirty  wersts.  The 
coast  between  them  consists  of  low  flat  islands,  sep- 
arated from  each  other  by  the  different  branches  of 
the  river,  the  principal  branch  being  on  the  east  side, 
and  half  a werst  across.  The  observed  latitude  of 
Cape  Kukurnoi  is  69°  5Г,  and  its  longitude  174°  34'. 

A heavy  fall  of  snow,  and  a strong  E.N.E.  wind, 
with  a temperature  of  +5°,  induced  me  to  remain 
here  during  the  1st  of  April.  On  the  2d  we  took 
our  departure  towards  the  east,  and  were  in  hopes 
of  meeting  with  M.  Matiuschkin,  to  whom  I had  in- 
trusted the  survey  of  the  coast ; it  being  desirable, 
as  there  was  now  nothing  more  to  be  done  to  the 
north,  to  reunite  our  two  parties  and  complete  the 
survey  together.  As  it  was  possible  that  he  might 
arrive  at  this  place  after  we  had  left  it,  I caused  a 
signal  to  be  erected  on  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
hills,  with  a notice  that  we  were  in  great  want  of  pro- 
visions, and  required  his  assistance  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. In  fact,  the  loss  of  our  provisions  had  placed 
us  in  such  a situation  that  all  our  hopes  rested  on 
effecting  a junction  with  the  other  division. 

We  slept  on  the  3d  twenty-three  wersts  from 
Cape  Kekurnoi,  not  far  from  the  remains  of  a bala- 
gan  built  of  driftwood,  which  appeared  to  have  been 
erected  by  Russians,  and  to  have  been  long  unvisit- 
ed. In  the  night  we  had  a strong  west  wind,  which 
continued  during  the  4th,  and  favoured  our  progress 
so  much,  that,  with  the  additional  advantage  of  our 
dogs  being  animated  by  numerous  fresh  reindeer 
tracks,  we  travelled  forty  wersts  in  less  than  five 
hours,  across  a level  tundra,  hardly  distinguishable 
to  the  eye  from  the  frozen  surface  of  the  sea. 

As  our  stock  of  provisions  was  very  low,  and  I 
was  nevertheless  anxious  to  continue  the  survey,  I 
sent  M.  Kosmin  in  an  empty  sledge  on  the  sea-ice 
to  endeavour  to  kill  a bear  for  our  dogs.  He  return- 
ed, however,  at  the  end  of  ten  hours,  without  any 
success.  After  proceeding  twenty  wersts  to  the 


MEETING  WITH  М.  MATIUSCHKIN.  265 

north,  he  had  been  stopped  by  a wide  fissure,  and, 
climbing*  a large  hummock,  saw  from  its  summit 
much  open  water  from  W.S.W.  to  N.  To  the  N. 
and  N.E.,  though  the  open  spaces  were  not  quite  so 
numerous,  the  ice  was  crowded  with  lofty  and  ap- 
parently impassable  hummocks ; from  N.E.  to  E. 
he  could  discover  no  open  water,  but  the  distant  ho- 
rizon was  dark  blue.  There  were  no  tracks  of  bears, 
but  many  of  stone-foxes,  all  leading  to  the  N.E. 
This  report  made  it  evident  that  we  were  effectually 
cut  off  from  the  spot  where  we  had  deposited  our 
provisions,  and  that,  in  all  probability,  they  had  been 
carried  away.  We  could  not  hope  for  anything, 
therefore,  from  that  source  : meanwhile  we  were  at 
least  360  wersts  from  our  nearest  magazine  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Baranicha,  and  the  remaining  provis- 
ions for  our  dogs  were  barely  sufficient  for  three 
days.  There  was,  consequently,  nothing  to  be  done 
but  to  commence  our  return,  which  we  did  on  the 
6th  of  March,  with  the  prospect  of  our  dogs  perish- 
ing by  the  way  for  want  of  food,  and  our  having  to 
travel  the  rest  of  the  distance  on  foot. 

We  had  scarcely  proceeded  ten  wersts,  however, 
in  a westerly  direction,  when  we  were  agreeably 
surprised  by  the  appearance  of  M.  Matiuschkin  and 
his  party.  They  were  in  excellent  health  and  spir- 
its, and  abundantly  supplied  with  provisions  of  all 
kinds.  It  may  well  be  supposed,  therefore,  that  our 
joy  at  meeting  was  great  on  every  account. 

While  engaged  in  surveying  the  coast,  and  making 
short  day’s  journeys,  M.  Matiuschkin  had  repeatedly 
met  with  the  Tschuktschi.  They  had  uniformly 
shown  some  distrust  at  first,  but  afterward  became 
friendly.  At  Cape  Schelagskoj  he  found  a party, 
whose  chief,  or  катакац  happening  to  be  an  old  ac- 
quaintance of  the  interpreter’s,  soon  got  upon  easy 
terms,  and  was  very  communicative.  He  said  that  in 
the  tundra  east  of  the  Werkon  River  there  were  the 
remains  of  a house,  which  his  father  had  told  him  was 
Z 


266  WHANGELl’s  polar  EXPERtTlON. 

built  by  Russians  who  had  escaped  from  the  wreck 
of  a large  vessel,  and  had  afterward  perished  there  ; 
and  farther,  that  when  a party  of  roving  Tschukt- 
schi  came  upon  the  huts  several  years  ago,  they 
found  human  bones  in  them,  apparently  gnawed  by 
wolves,  some  remains  of  provisions  and  tobacco,  and 
some  large  white  sails ; and  at  a little  distance  from 
the  house,  a forge,  and  a number  of  articles  of  iron. 
This  account  induced  M.  Matiuschkin  to  deviate 
from  his  course  to  visit  the  spot  described,  where  he 
actually  found  the  ruins  of  a large  hut,  formed  of 
well-hewn  boards  carefully  put  together,  which  evi- 
dently could  not  have  been  constructed  by  the 
Tschuktschi,  or  by  passing  travellers  as  a tempora- 
ry shelter,  but  must  have  been  the  work  of  persons 
who  had  remained  there  for  some  time.  All  these 
circumstances,  taken  in  connexion  with  the  locality, 
and  the  period  assigned  by  the  катакац  scarcely 
leave  a doubt  that  this  is  the  spot  where  Schalaurow 
perished.  No  other  navigator  visited  this  part  of  the 
Polar  Sea  at  the  same  epoch ; and  it  is  more  than 
probable  that,  after  doubling  Cape  Schelagskoj  for 
the  second  time,  he  was  stranded  on  this  desert 
coast,  and  here  terminated  his  active  and  enterpri- 
sing career.  Schalaurow’s  name  is  known  through- 
out Siberia,  and  the  cordial  sympathy  which  even 
our  half-civilized  companions  expressed  at  the  sight 
of  these  remains  was  a touching  tribute  to  the  mem- 
ory of  this  remarkable  man.* 

Dr.  Kyber  had  become  acquainted  at  Ostroлvnoje 
with  some  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Tschuktschi  tribes  of 
this  coast,  who  had  spoken  much  of  a more  northern 
land,  the  lofty  mountains  of  which  were  visible  on 
very  clear  days  from  a place  which  they  called  Ja- 
kan,  and  which  they  described  with  tolerable  mi- 
nuteness. From  their  description,  this  place  was  to 

* This  enterprising  navigator  made  three  voyages  along  the 
coast  of  the  Polar  Sea,  namely,  in  1761,  ’62,  and  ’64,  from  the 
last  of  wliich  he  never  returned. — Am.  Ed. 


CAPE  JAKAN. 


267 


the  eastward  of  onr  present  position,  and  I deter- 
mined to  visit  it.  Before  we  started,  I examined 
the  provisions  belonging  to  both  divisions,  had  part 
of  them  buried  in  the  ice,  and  sent  six  sledges  back 
to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  in  order  to  make  the  food  for 
our  dogs  go  as  far  as  possible.  Of  the  seven  re- 
maining sXedges,  three  were  assigned  to  M.  Mati- 
uschkin’s  division,  and  four  to  my  own. 

On  the  7th  of  April  the  weather  was  warm,  with 
a gentle  S.S.E.  breeze;  the  temperature  at  eight  in 
the  morning  being  +32'^,  and  rising  at  noon  to  38|°. 
I had  determined  to  rest  during  the  day,  and  to  travel 
in  the  night,  when  the  twilight  was  sufficiently 
bright,  and  when  there  was  usually  some  frost  to  fa- 
cilitate the  draught ; but  the  night  between  the  7th  and 
8th  was  so  warm  that  we  were  obliged  to  remain 
where  we  had  slept  on  the  5th.  We  availed  our- 
selves of  this  detention  to  take  several  observations. 
I found  the  latitude  of  the  place  by  a noon  observa- 
tion to  be  69°  48',  and  the  longitude  by  lunars  176° 
10',  which  gave  us  a fresh  point  of  departure.  A 
rock  twelve  wersts  from  this  spot  seems  to  form 
the  boundary  between  the  flat  tundra  and  the  hilly 
ground,  which  commences  about  fifteen  wersts  east 
of  Cape  Kekurnoi.  The  ground  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Auguon  River,  which  falls  into  the  sea  twenty- 
three  geographical  miles  E.  from  Cape  Kekurnoi,  is 
low,  and  we  saw  many  reindeer  there. 

On  the  8th  the  weather  was  clear,  and  the  tem- 
perature + 25°  in  the  morning  and  evening,  and 
+ 36°  at  noon.  After  following  the  coast,  which 
was  sixty  feet  high,  for  seven  wersts,  we  came  to  a 
rock  projecting  some  way  into  the  sea,  behind  which 
the  shore  suddenly  becomes  low  and  flat,  consisting 
of  gravel  and  weather-beaten  fragments  of  rock. 
The  place  corresponded  perfectly  in  these  and  other 
respects  with  the  description  which  the  chiefs  had 
given  to  Dr.  Kyber  of  Cape  Jakan.  I determined 
its  latitude  to  be  69o  42',  and  its  longitude  176°  32 


268  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

by  reckoning,  dependant  on  our  observation  of  the 
previous  day.  We  gazed  long  and  earnestly  on  the 
horizon,  in  hopes,  as  the  atmosphere  was  clear,  of 
discerning  some  appearance  of  the  northern  land 
which  the  Tschuktschi  affirm  they  have  seen  from 
this  place,  but  we  could  discover  nothing  of  it.  We 
continued  our  route  towards  the  east,  and,  after  pro- 
ceeding four  and  a half  worsts  from  the  rock,  we 
came  to  the  mouth  of  a small  river  called  Jakau 
Uwajan.  Near  it,  on  the  strand,  we  came  upon  the 
framework  of  a baidar  twenty-one  feet  in  length, 
which  satisfied  us  completely  that  the  rock  we  had 
passed  was  no  other  than  Cape  Jakan ; for  not  only 
the  chiefs  at  Ostrownoje,  but  also  other  Tschuktschi 
whom  w^e  subsequently  met  near  Cape  North,  men- 
tioned this  vessel  as  a mark  whereby  to  identify  the 
cape.  They  stated  that  they  had  covered  it  with 
walrus  skins,  and  made  use  of  it,  when  the  state  of 
the  ice  permitted,  for  taking  walruses,  which  are 
very  abundant  about  this  cape.  It  is  remarkable, 
that  from  Cape  Jakan  to  the  Indigirka  scarcely  any 
walruses  are  seen,  whereas  from  that  cape  to  Tschu- 
kotskoi  Noss  both  these  animals  and  whales  are 
abundant. 

When  we  had  gone  sixteen  wersts  eastward  from 
the  Jakan  River,  the  warmth  of  the  weather  obliged 
us  to  halt.  Our  noon  observation  gave  the  latitude 
69°  36',  the  longitude  by  reckoning  being  176°  58''. 
The  coast  was  low  and  flat ; Cape  Jakan  bearing  by 
compass  N.  83°  W.,  and  the  variation  being  21^° 
E.  In  many  places  along  this  coast  we  saw  the 
bones  of  whales  stuck  upright  in  the  ground ; and 
our  interpreter,  and  subsequently  the  Tschuktschi 
with  whom  we  met,  observed  that  they  were  the 
remains  of  the  former  dwellings  of  a stationary 
tribe.  They  appeared  to  have  been  habitations  of  a 
better  and  more  solid  kind  than  are  now  used,  and 
to  have  been  partly  sunk  in  the  earth.  As  soon  as 
it  became  a little  cooler  we  resumed  our  march; 


matiuschkin’s  last  attempt.  269 

and,  after  travelling  ten  wersts,  arrived  at  a range  of 
cliffs,  which  we  followed  twenty-five  wersts  farther, 
when  we  came  to  a gravelly  flat,  with  here  and 
there  earthy  hills.  Soon  after  we  were  so  fortunate 
as  to  find  a quantity  of  driftwood,  consisting  chiefly 
of  fir  and  pine,  with  very  little  larch.  We  had  for 
some  time  past  only  allowed  ourselves  fuel  for  cook- 
ing or  for  boiling  water  once  a day,  and  we  now 
took  a sufficient  supply.  To  M.  Matiuschkin  this 
was  the  more  important,  as  he  intended  to  make 
one  more  attempt  over  the  sea-ice,  in  hopes  of  get- 
ting sight  of  the  land  spoken  of  by  the  Tschuktschi. 
We  were  now  by  reckoning  in  69^  28'  latitude,  and 
177°  44'  longitude. 

On  the  9th  the  sky  became  overcast,  and  we  had 
a strong  west  wind  and  drifting  snow,  with  a much 
lower  temperature.  In  the  morning  it  was  +18°, 
at  noon  +12°,  and  in  the  evening  +7o.  M.  Mati- 
uschkin hastened  to  avail  himself  of  this  favourable 
circumstance,  and  started  on  the  ice  towards  the 
north,  with  three  sledges,  and  provisions  for  fifteen 
days  ; while  M.  Kosmin,  Dr.  Kyber,  and  myself  pro- 
ceeded eastward  with  four  sledges,  and  provisions 
for  thirteen  days.  A thick  mist  covered  the  whole 
country,  so  that  we  could  see  nothing  of  its  as- 
pect. After  travelling  forty-eight  wersts  we  came 
to  the  mouth  of  the  little  River  Kujegun,  and  halted 
thirteen  wersts  farther  on  at  five  in  the  morning  on 
the  10th  of  April.  The  coast  was  low,  and  we  saw 
many  piles  of  driftwood ; this  and  the  tracks  of 
reindeer  sledges  gave  us  hopes  of  meeting  and  be- 
coming better  acquainted  with  the  natives.  Our 
halting-place  was  by  reckoning  in  69°  12'  latitude, 
and  1790  13'  longitude. 

At  daybreak  we  had  a moderate  breeze  from  the 
east,  but  during  the  day  it  increased,  and  brought 
drifting  snow.  In  the  morning  the  temperature  was 
+4°,  and  in  the  evening  +3°. 

We  followed  the  coast,  which  makes  a considera- 
Z 2 


270  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

ble  bend  to  the  S.E.  from  our  halting-place,  and  af- 
ter going  twenty-three  wersts  we  came  to  a cliff 
which  runs  far  out  to  sea,  and,  being  connected  with 
the  shore  only  by  a low  isthmus,  looks  at  the  dis- 
tance of  fourteen  wersts  like  a small  island.  As 
we  approached  it  early  in  the  morning  of  the  11th, 
we  saw  with  pleasure  several  Tschuktschi  and  their 
huts  on  the  isthmus. 

This  is,  without  doubt,  the  point  which  Captain 
Cook  saw  in  1777,  and  to  which  he  gave  the  name 
of  Cape  North.  The  two  hills  connected  by  a low 
isthmus  running  from  E.  to  W.,  the  sea  to  the  south, 
and  every  other  circumstance,  agreed  perfectly  with 
his  description,  and  the  latitude,  as  afterward  observ- 
ed, completed  our  conviction.*  This  cape,  which 
bears  in  some  respects  a great  resemblance  to  Cape 
Schelagskoj,  consists  of  a slate  rock  105  feet  high, 
with  a ridge  still  higher,  joining  it  to  another  cliff  to 
the  east : the  whole  is  connected  with  the  continent 
by  the  low  isthmus  mentioned  above.  Captain 
Cook  supposed  the  sea  which  he  saw  beyond  the 
tongue  of  land  to  be  a bay,  or  the  mouth  of  a large 
river. 

As  soon  as  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Tschuktschi 
we  slackened  our  pace,  and  halted  on  the  ice  at  the 
distance  of  a werst  and  a half,  in  order  to  avoid  caus- 
ing alarm  by  a sudden  approach.  But,  in  spite  of 
this  precaution,  our  very  unexpected  appearance 
seemed  to  produce  no  little  commotion ; we  observ- 
ed them  running  to  and  fro,  gathering  together  in 
groups,  and  apparently  in  earnest  consultation.  Two 
men  then  detached  themselves  from  the  rest,  and 
approached  us  at  a slow  pace  : I sent  the  interpreter 
to  meet  them,  and  to  explain  our  views  and  the  pa- 
cific nature  of  our  intentions.  When  he  came  up  to 

* An  old  Tschuktschi  told  us  that  many  years  ago  he  had 
seen  two  fine  large  ships.  If  this  be  true,  they  were  probably 
Captain  CoDk’s  vessels. 


INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  TSCHUKTSCHI.  271 

them,  they  saluted  him  gravely,  and  sat  down  with- 
out speaking.  The  interpreter  then  filled  their  pipes, 
still  without  a word  being  spoken ; and  it  was  not 
until  these  had  been  smoked  out  that  he  began  his 
discourse.  It  continued  a long  time,  and  seemed  to 
make  a favourable  impression,  as  the  two  men  were 
seen  to  rise  up,  and  allow  themselves  to  be  conduct- 
ed to  our  sledges. 

When  they  arrived,  one  of  them  said  that  he  was 
Etel,  the  chief  of  the  tribe ; and,  in  token  of  good- 
will, he  offered  me  two  freshly-caught  seals.  He 
added  that  he  was  perfectly  satisfied  of  our  peacea- 
ble intentions,  and  that  he  was  ready  to  give  us  any 
assistance  in  his  power  towards  the  execution  of 
our  undertaking.  In  the  course  of  conversation  we 
learned  that  he  was  related  to  our  friend  the  kamakai 
at  Cape  Schelagskoj,  and  the  information  we  were 
able  to  give  him  in  regard  to  his  kinsman  contrib- 
uted not  a little  to  confirm  a good  understanding  be- 
tween us.  I presented  him  with  tobacco  and  other 
things,  and  at  parting  he  repeatedly  invited  me  to  re- 
turn his  visit,  which  I did  next  day  (April  12th). 

He  received  us  in  a large  tent  of  reindeer  skin, 
surrounded  by  his  various  treasures,  which  w^ere  ar- 
ranged with  some  degree  of  elegance.  There  were 
a number  of  stone-fox  skins,  wide  thongs  of  walrus 
skin,  a quantity  of  whale  bones,  some  small  rein- 
deer sledges  very  neatly  made,  leathern  cuirasses, 
javelins,  bows  and  arrows,  and  a variety  of  imple- 
ments for  fishing,  seal-hunting,  &c.  “ There,”  said 

he,  “ look  well  at  all  those  things,  take  from  them 
what  you  like,  and  give  me  in  return  a gun,  and  pow- 
der and  shot,  as  I am  very  fond  of  hunting,  and  am 
sure  I could  use  a gun  better  than  the  mountain 
Tschuktschi,  among  whom  I once  saw  one,  and  shot 
with  it.” 

He  continued  to  urge  this  request,  and  at  last  I 
promised  to  grant  it  if  he  would  procure  for  us  thir- 
teen seals  for  our  dogs,  fetch  for  us  on  his  sledges 


272  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


a supply  of  firewood,  which  was  twenty  wersts  oif, 
and  accompany  us  to  Koliutschin  Island,  where  he 
informed  me  that  he  had  a married  sister  living.  He 
probably  expected  to  have  been  asked  a great  deal 
more,  for,  without  a moment’s  deliberation,  he  agreed 
to  all  my  proposals,  praised  my  moderation  and  lib- 
erality exceedingly,  and  immediately  gave  the  ne- 
cessary orders  respecting  the  driftwood  and  the 
seals.  Our  departure  was  arranged  for  the  next  day ; 
and,  having  the  chief  of  the  tribe  with  me,  I thought 
I might  venture  to  leave  the  greater  part  of  our 
stores  in  his  hut  until  our  return,  which  lightened 
our  load  very  much.  As  I was  leaving  him,  Etel 
stopped  me  with  a request  that  he  might  be  permitted 
to  take  with  him  a batas^"^  intended  as  a present  for 
his  sister.  I could  easily  perceive  that  he  was  think- 
ing less  of  his  sister  than  of  being  thus  armed  with 
the  peculiar  weapon  of  the  Tschuktschi ; but  I made 
no  objection,  and  we  parted  excellent  friends. 

He  made  his  appearance  early  the  next  morning 
(April  13th),  fully  equipped  for  the  journey.  He 
appeared  to  have  put  on  his  best  clothes,  and  carried 
on  his  back  a kind  of  haversack,  with  tobacco,  and 
some  few  other  European  trifles,  intended  for  barter 
at  Koliutschin.  His  cap  was  much  ornamented 
with  beads  and  earrings,  and  surmounted  by  a large 
raven’s  head,  which  he  told  us  would  ensure  us  a 
fortunate  journey  and  a good  reception. 

We  set  off,  and  were  accompanied  for  a consider- 
able distance  by  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  village,  who  were  evidently  under  some  anx- 
iety respecting  their  chief : at  length  they  took  their 
leave,  лѵііЬ  many  ceremonies,  and  repeated  entrea- 
ties that  Etel  would  come  back  very  soon. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  two  single 
Tschuktschi  huts,  where  Etel  advised  us  to  pass  the 

* A kind  of  straight  sword  or  large  broad  knife,  fastened  to  a 
long  handle. 


DRIFTWOOD. 


273 


night.  The  inhabitants  were  aroused  from  their 
sleep  by  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and,  being  fright- 
ened at  the  sight  of  so  many  strangers,  caught  up  a 
large  schaman  drum,  and  made  a hideous  din  till  their 
friend  Etel  came  forward  with  his  raven’s  head,  and 
by  this  significant  emblem,  and  assurances  of  our 
peaceful  intentions,  induced  them  to  be  quiet.  We 
found  here  only  four  men  and  five  women ; they 
seemed  very  poor,  and  could  only  spare  us  one  seal. 

This  place  is  ninety  wersts  from  Cape  Ir-Kaipij 
(Cape  North),  and  the  coast  between  is  low  and 
flat.  About  forty  wersts  from  the  promontory  there 
is  a river  called  Ekechta,  narrow,  rapid,  and  abound- 
ing in  fish.  We  passed  also  three  inconsiderable 
streams  which  fall  into  the  same  bay.  Driftwood 
is  scarce  along  this  coast,  partly  from  its  consump- 
tion by  the  numerous  parties  of  Tschuktschi,  and 
partly  from  natural  causes ; the  rivers  of  this  dis- 
trict, coming  from  a country  producing  no  other  trees 
than  a few  willows,  bring  down  no  wood,  and  the 
ice  in  a great  measure  opposes  a barrier  to  its  arri- 
val by  sea.  The  greater  part  of  the  driftwood  found 
between  the  Schelagskoj  and  Tschukotskoi  Noss 
is  probably,  however,  of  American  origin,  as  it  con- 
sists chiefly  of  the  trunks  of  pines  and  firs,  which 
trees  do  not  grow  along  any  of  the  rivers  which  en- 
ter the  sea  between  the  mouth  of  the  Indigirka  and 
Tschaun  Bay.  Trunks  of  those  trees  are  brought 
down  in  abundance  by  the  Lena,  but  they  are  not 
often  drifted  as  far  as  the  Indigirka,  and  are  rarely 
seen  among  the  quantity  of  larch,  aspen,  and  pop- 
lars which  are  floated  down  by  the  other  rivers  of 
northern  Siberia.  My  opinion  that  the  driftwood 
on  this  part  of  the  coast  comes  from  America  is 
confirmed  by  the  assertion  of  the  Tschuktschi,  that 
among  the  stems  of  fir  they  not  imfrequently  find 
some  which  have  been  felled  or  hewn  with  stone 
axes. 

On  the  14th  of  April  we  continued  our  journey 


274  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

along  the  sandy  shore,  and,  after  proceeding  twelve 
Aversts,  we  came  to  the  Amgujim  River,  which  is 
two  and  a half  wersts  broad  at  its  mouth.  Etel 
told  us  that  the  reindeer  formerly  crossed  this  river 
nn  their  annual  migrations,  and  that  the  Tschuktschi 
were  in  the  habit  of  resorting  here  from  Koliutschin 
Island  to  take  them,  but  that  they  had  ceased  to 
pass  this  way.  Fourteen  wersts  beyond  the  river 
the  sandy  shore  is  succeeded  by  a steep  bank  of 
moderate  elevation,  and  the  plain  rises  gradually  to 
the  foot  of  a chain  of  mountains,  running  parallel 
with  the  coast,  at  a distance  of  from  twenty  to  thir- 
ty-five wersts.  At  the  point  where  the  steep  coast 
begins,  I found  the  latitude  by  observation  to  be  68® 
10',  and  the  longitude  by  reckoning  182^  6'. 

Our  progress  was  so  rapid  that  we  accomplished 
eighty-four  wersts  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and 
passed  the  night  at  a small  Tschuktschi  settlement 
on  the  west  side  of  Wankarem  River,  and'  close  to 
a cape  of  the  same  name.  Our  dogs  were  too  much 
exhausted  to  bark,  so  that  the  inhabitants  were  not 
startled  by  our  approach.  Before  Etel  woke  them, 
he  went  to  a spot  not  far  from  the  huts,  where  he 
had  previously  told  us  that  some  of  his  ancestors 
were  buried,  and  repeated  with  much  earnestness  a 
short  prayer,  offering  also  some  leaves  of  tobacco 
to  the  manes  of  the  dead.  When  this  was  comple- 
ted, he  entered  one  of  the  huts,  and  gave  his  coun- 
trymen, no  doubt,  a favourable  report,  as  the  head 
man  of  the  village  came  out  to  welcome  us,  and  we 
obtained  from  him  several  seals  for  our  dogs,  in  re- 
turn for  which  we  made  him  a handsome  present. 
There  is  a remarkable  similarity  between  the  three 
promontories  of  Schelagskoj,  Ir-Kaipij,  and  Wanka- 
rem : they  all  consist  of  fine-grained  sienite,  with 
greenish- white  feldspar,  dark  green  hornblende  and 
mica,  and  are  united  to  the  mainland  by  a narrow 
isthmus.  The  elevation  of  the  headland  and  breadth 
of  the  isthmus  are  greatest  at  Cape  Schelagskoj, 
and  least  at  Cape  Wankarem. 


KOLIÜTSCHIN  ISLAND. 


275 


On  the  15th  we  started  at  daybreak  : the  sky  was 
clear,  the  horizon  to  the  north  dark  blue,  the  air 
mild,  and  the  temperature  +7°  in  the  morning  and 
-1-5°  in  the  evening.  On  crossing  the  isthmus  of 
Wankarem,  we  saw  towards  the  east,  five  wersts 
from  the  cape,  a small  island  about  two  wersts  in 
circumference  ; and  at  a distance  of  twenty-five 
wersts  from  it,  in  a S.E.  direction,  high  rocks  of 
granitic  porphyry  begin  to  appear.  By  a meridian 
altitude,  which  I obtained  sixteen  wersts  from  our 
halting-place,  I found  the  latitude  to  be  67°  43',  the 
longitude  by  reckoning  183°  34'  E.,and  the  variation 
23°  E.  Cape  Onman  was  distant  ten  wersts  : it  is 
marked  by  a high  mountain,  and  by  a detached 
range  of  columns  at  a short  distance  from  it,  140 
feet  in  height,  and  resembling  the  ruins  of  colossal 
buildings.  Among  the  masses  of  rock  on  the  beach, 
at  the  foot  of  these  remarkable  rocks,  v/ere  a few 
Tschuktschi  huts. 

As  soon  as  we  had  passed  round  Cape  Onman, 
we  saw  on  the  horizon  Koliutschin  Island,  appear- 
ing like  a circular  mountain,  and  distant  thirty-three 
wersts.  We  found  a well-beaten  track  leading  to  it, 
over  which  we  advanced  rapidly.  From  this  cape 
the  coast  trends  suddenly  towards  the  south,  and 
the  cape  itself  may  be  considered  as  forming  the 
western  point  of  Koliutschin  Bay,  the  eastern  side 
of  which  we  could  not  distinguish  on  account  of 
the  fog.  The  shore  of  Koliutschin  Island  (Burney 
Island  of  Cook)  consists  everywhere  of  steep  rocks 
of  reddish  granite,  and  it  is  about  three  and  a half 
лversts  across.  The  Tschuktschi  village  which  we 
proposed  to  visit  is  situated  on  the  southern  point, 
which  does  not  rise  much  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
When  we  were  within  a quarter  of  a werst  of  the 
huts  we  halted  on  the  ice.  As  soon  as  the  Tschukt- 
schi perceived  us,  the  whole  place  was  in  commo- 
tion ; the  women  and  children  were  sent  away  to  a 
hiU  in  the  rear,  and  the  men,  armed  with  spears, 


276  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

oatasses^  and  bows,  arranged  themselves  in  fighting 
order  to  await  our  approach.  Etel  proposed  that 
he  should  go  forward  alone  to  speak  to  his  country- 
men : he  did  so,  and  in  a very  short  time  they  were 
so  well  satisfied  that  they  laid  aside  their  arms,  and 
we  were  soon  on  the  most  friendly  terms.  They 
were  very  much  pleased  at  my  offer  to  barter  beads 
and  tobacco  for  whales’  flesh  for  the  dogs ; they  had 
plenty  of  it  to  spare,  having  killed  the  preceding 
summer  no  less  than  fifty  whales,  besides  walruses. 
Our  good  understanding  with  the  islanders  was  soon 
made  known  to  the  settlers  along  the  neighbouring 
coast,  and  they  flocked  in,  bringing  on  their  sledges 
whales’  flesh,  walrus-skin  thongs,  and  wood,  which 
they  hoped  to  exchange  for  tobacco.  Above  sev- 
enty men  collected  in  a short  time,  and  the  ice 
about  our  little  camp  resembled  a busy  fair.  Every 
new  visiter  expected  a present  of  tobacco  before 
beginning  to  trade  ; the  better  sort  sitting  in  their 
sledges,  drawn  by  four  or  five  dogs  harnessed 
abreast,  and  being  driven  by  a man  of  inferior  con- 
dition, who  ran  by  their  side.  Most  of  them  called 
themselves  chiefs,  and,  as  every  one  expected  a lar- 
ger present  than  his  neighbours,  our  little  stock  of 
tobacco  was  soon  exhausted. 

Among  the  strangers  was  a chief  from  Behring’s 
Straits,  whose  dress  was  adorned  with  many  singular 
decorations  : he  had  round  his  neck  some  little  metal 
images  of  saints,  and  two  writings  secured  between 
bits  of  wood,  to  which  he  attached  great  impor- 
tance. One  of  these  papers  was  to  say  that  he  and 
his  three  sons  had  been  baptized,  and  the  other, 
that  he  had  sent  the  emperor  a fine  black  foxskin, 
and  had  received  in  return  an  upper  garment  {kamle- 
jo)  of  red  cloth  as  a mark  of  the  imperial  regard. 
He  was  a most  tiresome  boaster,  and  seemed  to 
consider  himself  entitled  to  make  the  most  impu- 
dent demands,  without  offering  anything  in  return, 
or  rendering  us  the  slightest  service.  With  this  ex- 


RETURN  JOURNEY. 


277 


ception,  we  were  tolerably  well  satisfied  with  the 
behaviour  of  these  people  towards  us,  though,  in 
spite  of  all  our  care,  a good  many  things  were  stolen; 
nor  does  it  appear  that  they  confine  the  exercise  of 
this  propensity  to  their  dealings  with  foreigners,  for 
our  friend  Etel  asked  us  to  look  after  his  property 
for  him,  as  he  had  no  great  confidence  in  his  coun- 
trymen of  Koliutschin. 

The  exhaustion  of  our  dogs  made  it  necessary  to 
remain  two  days  at  this  island;  while  their  condi- 
tion after  the  great  exertions  and  exposure  to  which 
they  had  been  subjected  on  the  ice,  the  want  of  to- 
bacco for  purchasing  a fresh  supply  of  provisions, 
and  the  advanced  state  of  the  season,  obliged  me  to 
think  of  returning  to  Nishne  Kolymsk,  from  which 
we  were  1060  wersts  distant,  and  to  relinquish  the 
hope  which  I had  entertained  of  surveying  the  Asi- 
atic coast  the  whole  way  to  Behring’s  Straits.  But, 
though  I was  unable  to  accomplish  all  that  I desired, 

I had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  geography 
would  not  lose  anything  of  importance,  as  my  sur- 
vey was  met  at  this  place  by  that  which  Captain 
Billings’s  expedition  had  made  of  the  coast  from  the 
Straits  to  Koliutschin  Bay.  We  took  our  departure 
on  the  evening  of  the  17th ; up  to  the  last  moment 
fresh  visiters  continuing  to  arrive,  and  to  torment 
us  for  presents,  and  even  following  us  for  some  dis- 
tance on  our  route. 

The  south  point  of  Koliutschin  Island  we  found  to 
be  in  latitude  67°  27^  by  meridian  altitudes,  and  in 
longitude  184°  24'  E.  by  reckoning;  variation  23° 
26"  E.  We  were  unable  to  make  any  observations 
of  dip,  as  the  instrument  had  been  so  much  injured 
as  to  be  wholly  useless. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  reached  the 
village  of  Ir-Kaipij : the  inhabitants  were  overjoyed 
at  the  safe  return  of  their  chief,  and  returned  to  us 
the  things  we  had  left.  They  had,  besides,  pro- 
cured for  us  the  seals  which  I had  requested,  which 
A A 


278  Wrangell's  polar  expedition. 


it  took  three  days  to  prepare  for  the  journey.  I 
had  hoped  to  avail  myself  of  this  delay  to  obtain  a 
more  exact  astronomical  determination  of  the  posh 
tion  of  the  cape  by  lunar  distances ; but,  unfortu- 
nately, the  weather  was  overcast,  and  I was  obliged 
to  content  myself  with  the  latitude  as  ascertained 
by  four  altitudes  of  the  sun,  taken  with  both  our  sex- 
tants ; the  result  of  which  gave  Cape  North  or  Ir- 
Kaipij  in  68°  ö.V  16"'.  The  longitude,  dependant  on 
that  of  Cape  Jakan,  which  had  been  astronomically 
determined,  is  179°  57'  E.,*  and  the  variation  21°  40' 
E.  On  the  22d  of  April  we  commenced  our  return 
along  the  coast  to  the  westward. 

Before  I proceed  with  the  account  of  our  home- 
ward journey,  I will  acquaint  the  reader  лѵіШ  the 
principal  particulars  collected  either  by  M.  Mati- 
uschkin,  Dr.  Kyber,  or  myself,  relative  to  a people 
hitherto  but  little  known. 

The  Tschuktschi  inhabit  the  northeastern  part  of 
Asia,  extending  from  Tschaun  Bay  to  Behring’s 
Straits  in  one  direction,  and  in  the  other  from  the 
Anadyr  and  the  upper  country  of  the  Aniuj  to  the 
Polar  Sea.  Their  neighbours  to  the  south  are  the 
Koraki,  and  to  the  west  the  Tschuwanzi  and  Juka- 
hiri  of  the  Aniuj.  They  formerly  occupied  a more 
extensive  territory,  before  the  Cossacks  from  the 
Lena  subdued  the  country  through  which  the  Koly- 
ma flows.  This  is  proved  by  their  names  being 
given  to  the  greater  and  lesser  Tschukotschje  Riv- 
ers, and  by  numerous  traditionary  accounts  of  their 
conflicts  with  the  first  Russian  settlers  on  the  western 
banks  of  the  Kolyma.  Pogromnoje  and  Ubiennoje 
Pole,  the  Valley  of  Desolation  and  the  Valley  of 
Death,  derive  their  names  from  these  encounters. 
The  Tschuktschi,  though  still  in  a great  measure  a 
nomade  race,  have  less  of  the  characteristics  which 

* Captain  Cook  made  the  latitude  of  Cape  North  or  Ir-Kai- 
pij  68®  56',  and  its  longitude  180®  49'  E.  from  Greenwich,  by 
the  ship’s  reckoning. 


ACCOUNT  OF  TUE  ONKILON. 


279 


usually  accompany  such  a mode  of  life  than  the 
wandering  Tungusi ; they  are  less  cheerful  and 
more  provident ; they  lay  up  stores  for  the  future, 
and,  in  general,  do  not  remove  their  dwellings  with- 
out an  object,  but  only  when  it  becomes  necessary 
to  seek  fresh  pasture  for  their  reindeer.  They  are 
more  covetous  and  more  saving  than  belongs  to  the 
character  of  the  genuine  nomade  tribes.  Their  dress 
differs  greatly  from  that  of  the  Tungusi,  which  is 
tight  and  close-fitting,  and  well  adapted  to  an  active 
wandering  life,  whereas  that  of  the  Tschuktschi  is 
full, 'loose,  and  cumbrous.  They  wear  long  wide 
trousers  made  of  fur,  and  an  ample  Jcuchlanka. 

The  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Anadyr  is  inhabited  by  a 
people  very  distinct  from  the  Tschuktschi  in  figure, 
countenance,  clothing,  and  language,  known  by  the 
name  of  Onkilon  (sea-people).  Captain  Billings,  in 
the  description  of  his  journey  through  the  territory 
of  the  Tschuktschi,  shows  that  the  language  of  this 
sea-people  has  a close  affinity  to  that  of  the  Aleu- 
tians of  Kodiak,  who  are  of  the  same  stock  as  the 
Greenlanders  (Esquimaux).  There  are  traditions, 
that  two  centuries  ago  the  Onkilon  occupied  the 
whole  coast  from  Cape  Schelagskoj  to  Behring’s 
Straits ; and  it  is  certain  that  there  are  everywhere 
along  this  tract  the  remains  of  huts  constructed  of 
earth  and  the  bones  of  whales,  quite  different  from 
the  present  dwellings  of  the  Tschuktschi.  A dis- 
agreement between  Krachoi,  the  principal  chief  of 
the  Asiatic  Esquimaux,  and  an  errim,  or  head  of  a 
tribe  of  reindeer  Tschuktschi,  broke  out  into  open 
hostilities  : Krachoi  was  defeated  and  forced  to  flee, 
his  people  migrated,  and  the  coast  was  deserted. 
The  inhabitants  of  Ir-Kaipij  relate,  that  Krachoi, 
having  killed  a Tschuktschi  errim.  was  closely  pur- 
sued by  his  son,  and  that,  after  some  time,  he  retreat- 
ed to  the  rock  of  Cape  North,  where  he  intrenched 
himself  behind  a kind  of  natural  rampart,  wliich 
still  exists.  The  young  errim  followed  him  thither. 


280  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


and  succeeded  in  killing  Krachoi’s  son,  by  which, 
according  to  the  ideas  of  these  people,  the  debt  of 
blood  was  paid.  Krachoi  let  himself  down  from  the 
cliff  during  the  night  by  means  of  thongs,  and  got 
into  a boat  which  was  waiting  for  him  at  the  foot  of 
the  rock.  He  at  first  steered  towards  the  east  to 
mislead  his  pursuers,  but  the  following  night  he 
turned  westward,  and  reached  Schalaurow  Island, 
where  he  built  the  earthen  huts  of  which  we  had 
seen  the  remains.  He  was  gradually  joined  by  his 
kinsmen,  and  others  of  his  own  tribe,  and  they  all 
finally  fled  together  in  fifteen  baidars  to  the  northern 
country,  the  mountains  of  which  are  said  to  be  some- 
times visible  from  Cape  .Takan.  In  the  course  of 
the  winter  a Tschuktschi  who  was  allied  to  Krachoi 
disappeared  with  his  family  and  his  reindeer,  and  it 
w^as  supposed  that  he  too  had  gone  to  the  northern 
land. 

Formerly  all  the  Tschuktschi  lived  on  the  produce 
of  their  reindeer ; but  many  among  them,  losing 
their  herds  by  sickness  or  other  causes,  settled  by 
degrees  along  the  coast,  where  they  kill  whales, 
seals,  and  walruses.  These  animals,  the  whales  es- 
pecially, are  particularly  abundant  about  Koliutschin ; 
they  become  more  scarce  in  going  westward,  and 
are  not  met  with  at  all  west  of  Cape  Schelagskoj. 
This  is  no  doubt  the  reason  why  we  found  the  pop- 
ulation along  the  seacoast  numerous  as  we  approach- 
ed Behring’s  Straits.  This  people  are  now  divided 
into  two  classes,  the  settled  Tschuktschi,  who  live 
on  the  coast,  and  the  reindeer  or  nomade  Tschukt- 
schi, who  inhabit  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. The  latter,  who  form  the  chief  bulk  of  the  pop- 
ulation, call  themselves  Tennygik.  The  two  classes 
live  on  good  terms  with  each  other,  and  interchange 
their  diferent  commodities.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
coast  furnish  to  those  of  the  interior  whale’s  flesh 
and  bones,  walrus  skin,  and  train  oil,  which  last  is  a 
favourite  article  of  food,  and  receive  in  return  rein- 
deer skins,  both  raw  and  made  up  into  clothing. 


MANNER  OF  TAKING  SEALS. 


281 


The  huts  of  the  settlers  are  clustered  in  little  vil- 
lages along  the  coast.  They  are  formed  of  poles 
or  of  bones  covered  over  with  skin,  and  come  to  a 
point  at  the  top,  where  there  is  a hole  for  the  smoke 
to  escape.  The  low  entrance  is  always  turned  to 
the  south,  and  is  at  the  narrow  end  of  the  hut : the 
opposite  end  is  much  broader,  and  in  it  is  a low 
square  inner  tent,  which  forms  the  sleeping  and  living 
apartment.  In  severe  cold  weather  it  is  also  used 
for  cooking  in,  by  the  heat  of  a lamp  of  train  oil  with 
moss  wicks.  The  usual  cooking  fire  is  made  of 
bones  which  have  been  soaked  in  train  oil  drift- 
wood for  fuel  being  extremely  scarce. 

At  Ir-Kaipij,  the  principal  occupation  of  the  inhab- 
itants is  taking  seals  and  walruses.  Seals  are  some- 
times caught  by  a sort  of  net  formed  of  thongs, 
placed  under  the  ice,  and  in  which  the  animal  be- 
comes entangled.  Sometimes  the  following  method 
is  resorted  to  : the  hunter  dresses  himself  in  white, 
that  he  may  not  be  noticed  on  the  snow,  and  lies 
down  near  one  of  the  openings  where  the  seals 
come  out  of  the  water  to  sun  themselves : he  is 
armed  with  a lance,  and  carries  an  instrument  con- 
sisting of  five  bears’  claws  fastened  to  a stick,  with 
which  he  keeps  gently  scratching  the  snow  on  the 
surface  of  the  ice  the  whole  time.  The  people  say 
that  this  sets  the  seals  to  sleep ; but  its  more  proba- 
ble use  is  to  cover  the  noise  made  by  the  hunter  as 
he  gradually  creeps  nearer,  till  he  is  able  to  reach 
the  animal  with  his  lance.  This  method  rarely  fails 
of  success.  Wolves  are  killed  by  a very  ingenious 
device.  The  two  ends  of  a strong  piece  of  whale- 
bone are  bent  together,  and  fastened  by  a thread  ; 
water  is  then  poured  over  the  ring  till  it  is  covered 
■with  a crust  of  ice  sufficiently  strong  to  make  it  re- 
tain its  form  ; the  thread  is  then  cut,  and  the  whole 
is  smeared  over  with  fat.  The  wolf,  on  finding  it, 
swallows  it  greedily,  when  the  ice  melts,  and  the 
elastic  whalebone  springs  asunder  and  chokes  him. 
A a2 


282  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Walruses  are  taken  by  cutting  off  their  retreat  to 
the  water,  when  they  are  easily  despatched.  The 
walrus  is  almost  as  useful  to  the  settled,  as  the  rein- 
deer is  to  the  nomade  Tschuktschi.  The  flesh  and  the 
blubber  are  both  used  as  food,  and  the  latter  for  their 
lamps  ; the  skin  is  made  into  durable  thongs  for  har- 
ness and  other  purposes,  and  into  strong  soles  for 
boots  ; the  intestines  furnish  a material  for  light  wa- 
ter-proof upper  garments  for  summer  use;  a very 
durable  thread  is  prepared  from  the  sinews ; and, 
lastly,  the  tusks,  which  are  of  the  finest  ivory,  are 
sometimes  formed  into  long,  narrow  drinking-ves- 
sels, which  it  takes  a long  time  to  hollow  out,  but 
are  more  frequently  sold  to  the  reindeer  Tschukt- 
schi, who  dispose  of  them  to  the  Russians.  The 
most  dangerous  chase  is  that  of  the  white  bears, 
which  the  hunters  pursue  to  their  dens  among  the 
hummocks,  and  which  are  killed  with  spears,  fre- 
quently after  a severe  combat.  For  fishing  they 
employ  baskets  of  thin  willow  rods,  which  they 
sometimes  sink  in  the  water,  and  sometimes  use  as 
nets.  For  fowling  they  have  a contrivance  consist- 
ing of  a number  of  long  slender  thongs,  to  the  ends 
of  which  stone  pebbles  or  bits  of  walrus’  teeth  are 
fastened.  This  they  throw  up  into  the  air  with 
great  dexterity  among  a flight  of  geese  or  other  wild- 
fowl, and  the  birds,  becoming  entangled  in  the  loose 
thongs,  which  fly  in  every  direction,  are  brought  to 
the  ground.  The  Tschuktschi,  as  already  mention- 
ed, pursue  the  white  bear,  the  flesh  of  which  is  a 
favourite  article  of  food ; but  they  are  not  generally 
fond  of  the  chase,  although  their  country  abounds  in 
wild  reindeer  and  sheep,  foxes,  wolves,  bears,  and 
other  large  fur  animals.  They  have  bows  and  ar- 
rows, but  they  are  not  particularly  expert  in  their 
use.  Their  principal  weapons  are  different  kinds  of 
spears,  and  particularly  the  batass  already  described. 
Iron  being  scarce,  they  sometimes  employ  walrus’ 
tusks  in  place  of  it.  The  settled  Tschuktschi  use 


SLAVERY  AMONG  THE  T&CHUKTSCHI.  283 

dogs  for  draught,  but,  instead  of  harnessing  them  two 
and  two,  as  is  done  on  the  Kolyma,  they  drive  them 
four  abreast.  Their  sledges  are  also  of  a different 
construction,  and  resemble  the  reindeer  sledges,  ex- 
cept that  they  are  not  so  large.  The  dogs  are  small- 
er than  those  employed  for  draught  in  other  parts  of 
Siberia,  and  inferior  to  them  both  in  strength  and 
swiftness.  It  is  remarkable  that  in  1821  the  Tschukt- 
schi  lost  great  numbers  of  their  dogs  by  the  same 
malady  that  made  such  ravages  among  those  of  the 
Kolyma,  the  Indigirka,  the  Jana,  and  the  Lena. 

From  much  observation  and  repeated  inquiries,  it 
appears  that  a kind  of  slavery  exists  both  among 
the  settled  and  nomade  Tschuktschi.  We  found 
among  the  wealthier  people  whole  families  who  had 
always  been  in  a state  of  servitude  : they  have  no 
property ; they  cannot  leave  their  masters,  on  whose 
arbitrary  will  they  are  entirely  dependant,  and  by 
whom  they  are  employed  in  all  sorts  of  hard  labour 
and  attendance  on  their  persons,  in  return  for  which 
they  are  merely  fed  and  clothed.  Neither  our  inter- 
preter, nor  the  Tschuktschi  interrogated  by  us.  could 
give  us  any  information  respecting  the  origin  of  this 
state  of  things.  They  merely  said,  “It  always  had 
been  so,  and  must  always  continue  to  be  so.”  Pos- 
sibly the  slaves  are  descended  from  captives. 

The  Tschuktschi  use  only  animal  food,  boiled 
reindeers’  flesh  with  seals’  blubber  being  a f^requent 
dish.  They  are  particularly  fond  of  the  flesh  of  the 
white  bear,  and  of  the  skin  of  the  whale  with  a 
layer  of  flesh  adhering  to  it,  eaten  raw,  and  which 
bears  some  resemblance  to  sturgeon.  Meat-broth  is 
taken  quite  cold,  and  is  often  mixed  with  snow,  and 
drank  out  of  large  wooden  vessels  as  a beverage  to 
quench  thirst.  Each  individual  carries  about  with 
him  a small  tube  of  reindeer  bone,  through  which 
he  sucks  up  the  liquid  from  the  vessel  in  which  it  is 
contained.  Fish,  generally,  are  not  much  esteemed, 
and  are  only  eaten  w^hen  other  food  fails.  Salt  is 


284  Wrangell’s  p(m.ar  expedition. 

never  used.  It  is  strange,  that  in  a country  where 
the  cold  is  so  intense,  where  one  would  suppose  ev- 
ery means  of  warmth  would  be  resorted  to,  every 
article  of  food  is  taken  cold.  They  usually  conclude 
their  meals  with  a lump  of  snow  ; and  I have  often 
seen  them,  in  a temperature  of  — 36°,  or  even  more, 
catch  up  from  time  to  time  handfuls  of  fresh  snow, 
and  eat  it  with  great  apparent  relish. 

On  the  23d  of  April  we  left  Ir-Kaipij,  and  contin- 
ued our  route  towards  the  west.  On  the  24th  we 
came  to  the  place  from  which  M.  Matiuschkin  had 
commenced  his  journey  over  the  ice,  to  make  a last 
attempt  to  discover  the  northern  land.  We  found 
here  a large  wooden  cross  erected  by  him,  with  a 
short  notice  to  the  effect  that  he  had  everywhere 
met  with  wide  open  places,  and  that,  after  several  at- 
tempts to  advance  farther,  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice 
in  every  direction  had  forced  him  to  return,  without 
having  been  more  than  sixteen  worsts  from  the 
coast. 

We  slept  on  the  25th  at  Schalaurow’s  hut,  near 
the  Werkon  River,  seven  wersts  N.  80°  E.  from 
Cape  Kekurnoi.  This  building,  which  had  been 
erected  sixty  years  ago,  was  still  in  tolerable  pres- 
ervation. All  the  side  timbers  were  standing  : the 
roof  only  had  fallen  in.  We  examined  the  min- 
gled earth  and  snow  which  filled  the  interior  of  the 
hut,  and  found  some  human  bones,  and  a kind  of 
pouch  for  partridges,  made  of  wood,  which  was 
overgrown  with  moss.  The  kamakai  at  Cape  Sche- 
lagskoj  afterward  told  me,  that  when  he  was  a boy 
of  ten  years  old,  several  corpses  had  been  found 
here,  and  that  five  individuals  of  this  unfortunate 
company  had  attempted  to  make  the  journey  on 
foot  to  the  Kolyma  district. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  May  we  reach- 
ed Cape  Schelagskoj,  and  roused  up  the  катакац 
who  was  still  asleep,  in  hopes  of  obtaining  some 
provisions  from  him.  Unfortunately,  his  hunting  and 


EXHAUSTED  CONDITION  OF  THE  DOGS.  285 

fishing  had  been  unsuccessful,  and  he  could  spare  us 
scarcely  anything.  He  handed  me  a letter  which  M. 
Matiuschkin  had  left  for  me,  containing  some  far- 
ther details  of  his  proceedings  during  his  last  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  on  the  ice. 

Our  dogs  were  very  much  exhausted  by  their  long 
journey,  and  their  feet  were  so  injured  by  the  sharp 
ice,  which  had  now  lost  its  covering  of  snow,  that 
their  track  was  marked  with  blood,  and  some  of 
them  were  so  lame  that  we  were  obliged  to  carry 
them  in  the  sledges.  Our  stock  of  provisions  both 
for  them  and  for  ourselves  was  quite  consumed,  and 
an  attempt  we  made  to  meet  the  Tschuktschi  who 
usually  visit  Aion  or  Sabadei  Island  with  their  herds 
of  reindeer  had  failed,  so  that  there  was  nothing  to 
be  done  but  to  follow  the  practice  of  the  country, 
which  is,  when  dogs  are  in  very  bad  condition,  to 
drive  them  on,  without  stopping,  till  they  reach  a 
place  where  they  can  have  good  food,  and  the  rest 
they  require.  We  did  so,  and  with  much  difficulty 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  balagan  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Baranicha,  where  we  found  sufficient  provisions 
to  permit  of  allowing  our  poor  dogs  two  days’  rest. 
We  had  had  a light  breeze,  with  a temperature  of 
but  on  the  3d  the  thermometer  suddenly  fell 
to  — 8°  ; the  cloudless  sky,  however,  made  amends 
for  the  severity  of  the  cold,  by  enabling  us  on  that 
and  the  following  days  to  add  some  good  meridian 
altitudes  to  our  previous  observations  for  latitude. 

We  resumed  our  route  on  the  5th  of  May.  As 
лѵе  approached  Nishne  Kolymsk,  the  signs  of  spring 
became  more  perceptible,  the  banks  of  the  river 
w^ere  clear  of  snow,  and,  although  the  ice  was  still 
strong  enough  to  bear  us,  it  was  covered  with  water 
formed  by  the  melting  of  the  snow,  or  that  brought 
down  by  the  more  rapid  mountain  streams,  which 
were  now  open.  There  was  very  great  difficulty  in 
drawing  the  sledges,  and,  but  for  the  strong  smooth 
whalebone  runners  which  w^e  had  purchased  at  Ko- 
liiitschin,  it  would  have  been  impossible. 


286  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition» 

At  length,  on  the  10th  of  May,  vve  reached  Nishne 
Kolynisk,  after  an  absence  of  seventy-eight  days, 
during  \vhich  time  we  had  travelled  2300  vversts. 
M.  Matiuschkin  had  arrived  six  days  before.  Du- 
ring his  homeward  journey  he  had  completed  the 
survey  of  Tschaun  Bay,  without  meeting  with  the 
Tschuktschi  an}^ where  except  at  Cape  SchelagskoJ, 
where  the  kamakai  gave  him  a friendly  reception,  but 
could  not  spare  him  any  provisions. 

Our  return  to  Nishne  Kolymsk  closed  the  series 
of  attempts  made  by  us  to  disco'ver  a northern  land, 
which,  though  not  seen  by  us,  may  nevertheless  exist, 
and  be  attainable  under  a combination  of  very  fa- 
vourable circumstances,  the  principal  of  which  would 
be  a long,  cold,  and  stormless  winter,  and  a late 
spring.  If  another  attempt  should  be  made,  it  would 
be  advisable  to  leave  the  coast  about  Cape  Jakan, 
which  all  the  native  accounts  concur  in  representing 
as  the  nearest  point  to  the  supposed  northern  region» 

We  had  now  completed  the  execution  of  our  in- 
structions, and  were  free  to  leave  Nishne  Kolymsk, 
and  to  commence  our  homeward  journey  as  soon 
as  it  should  be  practicable.  MM.  Matiuschkin  and 
Kyber  took  their  departure  early  in  July.  They 
ascended  the  Kolyma,  went  from  thence  to  Werch- 
ne  Kolymsk,  and  up  the  Omekon  to  Irkuzk,  where 
they  spent  the  summer  in  researches  relating  to 
natural  history.  I was  detained  at  Nishne  Kolymsk 
until  the  1st  of  August,  when  I received  orders  to 
await  the  arrival  of  a Bmctionary  at  Jakuzk,  who 
was  commissioned  to  examine  all  my  accounts  with 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Kolymsk  district,  and  all  the 
payments  I had  made  them.  Unfortunately,  this 
person  did  not  arrive  for  a loaig  time  ; and,  though  I 
occupied  myself  during  the  interval  in  arranging  my 
journals,  surveys,  and  maps,  yet  I own  I felt  this 
delay  in  the  highest  degree  irksome,  and  a greater 
trial  of  patience  than  all  our  toils  and  difficulties 
hitherto. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SREDNE  KOLYMSK.  287 

At  length  he  came,  the  simple  accounts  were  soon 
gone  over,  and,  all  being  settled,  I left  Nishne  Ко- 
iymsk  with  M.  Kosmin,  after  a stay  of  three  entire 
years.  We  soon  reached  Sredne  Kolymsk,  where 
we  hired  horses  to  take  us  to  Jakuzk  from  our  old 
acquaintance  M.  Bereshnoi, 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Return  from  Sredne  Kolymsk  to  St.  Petersburgh. 

It  was  on  the  19th  of  November  that  we  left 
Sredne  Kolymsk.  Instead  of  taking  the  postroad 
through  Saschiv/ersk  and  Tabalog,  we  followed  the 
northern  route,  which  is  travelled  by  the  trading 
caravans  across  the  heaths  inhabited  by  the  Jakuti, 
along  the  Selenücha  River.  Although  by  this  means 
we  traversed  the  country  in  quite  a new  direction, 
the  uniformity  which  prevails  throughout  northeast- 
ern Siberia  is  such,  that  a detailed  description  of 
our  return  to  Jakuzk  would  be  little  more  than  a 
repetition  of  what  has  been  already  said:  I will 
therefore  confine  myself  to  the  mention  of  a few 
particulars,  which  had  not  before  fallen  under  my 
notice. 

The  preference  given  by  the  trading  caravans  to 
the  route  along  the  Selenacha,  is  on  account  of  the 
excellent  food  afforded  to  their  horses  by  a species 
of  equisetum^  which  grows  abundantly  on  the  sandy 
banks  of  that  river,  and  is  not  met  with  along  the 
postroad.  In  summer  this  plant  is  bitter  and  dis- 
tasteful to  the  horses ; but  the  first  frosts,  without 
altering  its  green  colour,  give  it  a sweetish  flavour  : 
it  is  then  much  liked  by  them,  and  they  soon  become 
strong  and  fat  from  feeding  on  it.  This  useful  plant, 


288  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


which  is  hardly  an  inch  in  height,  is  known  in  the 
country  by  the  name  of  tschiboga.  Although  it  re- 
quires frost  to  render  it  palatable,  it  is  sometimes  in- 
jured by  a long  continuance  of  extreme  cold,  which 
renders  its  hollow  tubes  so  brittle,  that  the  hoofs  of 
the  horses,  in  scraping  away  the  snow,  destroy  them. 

We  always  endeavoured  to  pass  the  night  on  the 
best  spots  for  pasture,  though  they  were  not  always 
the  best  in  other  respects.  On  the  9th  of  December, 
for  instance,  with  a temperature  of  — 42°,  we  slept  on 
an  exposed  plain  where  we  had  no  shelter  from  the 
north  wind,  around  a fire  kindled  in  the  open  air. 
I had  a good  opportunity  of  remarking  in  the  Jakuti 
who  accompanied  us  the  degree  to  which  men  can 
harden  themselves  by  long  habit  against  cold  and 
exposure  in  the  severest  winter  journey.  These 
people  do  not  use  any  kind  of  tent  or  covering,  nor 
any  of  the  larger  fur  garments,  without  which  we 
could  not  venture  into  the  open  air  when  the  cold 
had  attained  a certain  intensity. 

A Jakut,  when  travelling,  wears  only  his  usual 
in-door  clothing,  and  at  night  spreads  a horsecloth 
on  the  snow,  which,  with  a saddle  for  his  pillow, 
forms  the  whole  of  his  bedding ; his  only  covering 
being  the  fur  jacket  which  he  has  worn  during  the 
day,  and  which  he  pulls  off  and  puts  over  his  back 
and  shoulders,  while  the  front  of  his  body  has 
scarcely  anything  to  protect  it,  and  is  turned  to  the 
blazing  fire.  When  he  has  lain  for  some  time  in 
this  way,  and  feels  so  warm  that  he  is  near  perspi- 
ring, he  stops  up  his  nose  and  ears  with  little  bits 
of  fur,  and  covers  his  face  so  as  to  leave  only  an 
exceedingly  small  aperture  for  breathing,  and  this 
is  all  that  he  requires  in  the  most  intense  cold  to 
keep  from  freeizng  during  sleep.  Even  in  Siberia 
the  J-akuti  are  called  iron  men ; and  I do  not  believe 
that  there  are  any  other  people  in  the  world  who 
can  endure  cold  and  hunger  as  they  do.  I have 
seen  them  frequently  in  the  most  intense  cold  of 


HARDIHOOD  OF  THE  JAKUTI. 


289 


this  country,  after  the  fire  had  long  been  extinguish- 
ed, and  when  the  light  jacket  had  slipped  off  from 
their  shoulders,  sleeping  completely  exposed  to  the 
heavens,  with  scarcely  any  clothing  on  them,  and 
their  bodies  covered  with  a thick  coat  of  hoar-frost. 

They  are  also  remarkable  for  the  acuteness  of 
their  sight.  A middle-aged  Jakut  assured  M.  Anjou 
that  he  had  several  times  seen  that  blue  star,  point- 
ing to  Jupiter,  swallow  up  another  very  small  star^  and 
soon  afterward  vomit  it  forth  again : thus  he  had  ob- 
served with  the  naked  eye  the  immersion  and  emer- 
sion of  one  of  Jupiter’s  satellites.  Their  memory 
and  local  sagacity  are  also  very  surprising,  and  are 
of  the  greatest  use  to  them  in  their  journeys  through 
these  extensive  and  unvaried  wastes.  A pool,  a 
stone,  a bush,  a rise  of  ground  so  slight  as  to  be 
hardly  perceptible,  objects  which  a European  scarce- 
ly notices,  are  deeply  impressed  in  their  memory, 
and  serve  years  afterward  to  guide  them  over  the 
desert  and  trackless  steppe. 

Our  march  was  often  rendered  more  difficult  by  a 
phenomenon  peculiar  to  these  regions,  resembling 
the  glaciers,  though  of  quite  a different  origin.  In 
valleys  (particularly  in  the  long  valley  of  the  Dogdo) 
where  the  gravelly  soil  is  parched  by  the  hot  sum- 
mer and  the  dry  autumn  which  usually  follows,  it 
often  happens  in  the  middle  of  winter,  when  the 
cold  is  most  intense,  that  a large  quantity  of  water 
gushes  up  from  the  earth,  spreads  itself  on  all  sides, 
and  immediately  freezes.  This  first  crust  of  ice  is 
soon  broken  by  fissures,  through  which  fresh  water 
rises,  and  a second  crust  is  formed ; and  in  this 
manner  fresh  layers  are  continually  added,  as  more 
water  presses  up  from  the  deep  cavities  in  the 
ground,  until  at  last  the  height  of  the  whole  mass 
is  such  as  to  cover  the  bushes  and  shrubs,  and  even 
trees  of  moderate  size.  These  fields  of  ice,  which 
are  called  taryni,  continue  during  the  winter ; and 
when  they  are  melted  by  the  heat  of  the  sun  in 


290  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

spring,  they  form  a number  of  streams  of  greater 
or  less  size,  which  rush  down  to  the  lowest  levels, 
and  sink  into  the  earth  as  the  ground  thaws.  On 
the  Ochozk  route,  and  among  the  Omekon  Mount- 
ains, large  fields  of  ice  are  met  with,  which,  being 
in  elevated  places  and  shaded  from  the  sun,  do  not 
melt  during  the  whole  summer.  These  masses  are 
probably  formed  by  the  accumulation  of  rain  and 
snow  water,  and  differ  therefore  materially  from  the 
taryni  of  the  Dogdo  River.  The  ice  of  the  latter 
is  of  a dazzling  white  colour,  and  seems  to  contain 
a quantity  of  calcareous  particles,  as  we  judged 
from  its  taste,  and  from  its  being  so  hard  as  to  be 
quite  unfit  for  washing  or  for  making  tea.  When 
the  taryni  are  hard  frozen,  they  are  both  difficult 
and  dangerous  to  cross.  The  surface  is  so  smooth 
that  even  horses  properly  roughshod  can  scarcely 
keep  their  feet,  and  are  often  borne  down  by  their 
loads,  and  not  unfrequently  killed  on  the  spot.  It 
is  particularly  dangerous  when,  in  passing  a ravine 
or  a declivity  thus  covered,  the  caravan  is  caught 
by  one  of  the  furious  and  irresistible  gusts  of  wind 
common  in  this  country,  and  which  sometimes  hurl 
men  and  horses  together  down  a precipice. 

The  passage  of  the  taryni  is  less  hazardous,  but 
not  less  troublesome,  when  they  are  covered  with  a 
fresh  overflow  of  w^ater  not  yet  congealed,  and  the 
caravan  has  to  wade  through  the  ice-cold  element, 
which  not  unfrequently  causes  both  the  hands  and 
feet  to  freeze.  But  the  hardy  Jakuti  receive  no  in- 
jury ; after  wading  through  a bath  of  this  kind,  their 
high  fur  boots  {torbassy)  being  completely  wet  through, 
they  plunge  their  legs  two  or  three  times  into  the 
snow ; the  effect  of  this  is  to  draw  out  the  water 
through  the  skin  of  the  boot,  when  it  forms  a crust 
of  ice  on  the  outside,  which  is  easily  scraped  off*;  if 
the  time  suits,  the  boots  are  then  dried  by  a fire,  but 
this  is  usually  deferred  till  the  night  halt. 

On  the  22d  of  December  лѵе  arrived  at  Wercho- 


RECEPTION  AT  WERCHOJANSK.  291 

jansk  (called  by  the  Jakuti  Boronuk),  where  we  took 
leave  of  our  friend  Bereshnoi.  His  horses  had 
brought  us  from  Sredne  Kolymsk,  a distance  of  1224 
wersts,  in  thirty-two  days.  The  little  settlement  of 
Werchojansk  consists  of  only  five  wooden  houses, 
and  a newly-built  church  of  the  same  material,  which 
is  not  yet  consecrated.  It  is  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Jana,  but  will  probably  be  transferred  in  time 
to  the  opposite  shore,  as,  from  the  bend  of  the  river, 
the  bank  on  which  it  stands  is  being  gradually  un- 
dermined. I stayed  at  the  house  of  M.  Gorochow, 
a merchant ; and  my  surprise  and  pleasure  were 
great  on  seeing  there  a good-sized,  neat,  and  clean 
room,  with  regular  windows,  good  furniture,  a hand- 
some fireplace,  some  prints,  and,  above  all,  a small 
bookcase,  containing  a collection  of  our  best  authors. 
It  was  years  since  I had  seen  any  books  except  the 
very  few  which  I had  brought  with  me.  While  en- 
joying the  unexpected  sight  of  these  marks  of  civil- 
ized taste  and  intellectual  cultivation,  I was  sum- 
moned to  table,  and,  after  living  for  three  years  upon 
raw  and  dried  fish,  I must  confess  that  the  well-ar- 
ranged board,  clean  cookery,  and  thoroughly  Euro- 
pean dinner,  formed  a very  pleasant  addition  to  the 
agreeable  conversation  of  my  host,  and  of  M.  Mi- 
chailou,  the  commissioner  of  the  district.  The  lat- 
ter gentleman  informed  me  that  the  Ustjansk  expe- 
dition had  passed  through  early  in  November,  on 
their  way  to  Jakuzk. 

Werchojansk,  which  is  situated,  according  to  our 
observations,  in  latitude  67o  33',  is  the  headquarters 
of  M.  Michailou,  лѵЬо  has  the  superintendence  of  the 
Jana,  Indigirka,  and  Shigansk  circles : a district 
equal  in  extent  to  France,  but  the  whole  population 
of  which  does  not  exceed  that  of  a single  large  vil- 
lage. Nevertheless,  the  commissioner,  who  makes 
the  circuit  of  this  great  desert  every  year  with  a 
secretary  and  clerk,  finds  sufficient  to  do  ; for,  where 
there  are  even  no  more  than  a couple  of  families  in 
a place,  there  is  some  dispute  to  be  adjusted. 


292  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


The  people  about  Werchojansk  are  Jakuti,  and 
their  chief  occupation  is  the  care  of  cattle,  to  which 
the  hilly  country  and  the  milder  climate  of  the  shel- 
tered valleys  are  very  favourable.  There  is  also 
much  less  snow  here  than  in  other  parts  of  north- 
eastern Siberia,  so  that  the  cattle  can  be  left  out  in 
winter,  and  find  sufficient  pasture.  This  is  the  more 
important,  as  from  the  very  dry  summers  the  growth 
of  grass  is  never  such  as  to  afford  a good  stock  of 
hay.  There  are,  generally  speaking,  fewer  lakes 
abounding  in  fish  than  in  the  Kolyma  district ; but 
some  of  them  are  so  full  of  a small  species  of  fish 
about  two  inches  in  length  that  they  may  be  scoop- 
ed out  of  the  water  with  buckets.  These  little  fish, 
wffiich  are  preserved  for  the  winter  by  being  frozen, 
furnish  a very  good  article  of  food,  pounded  and 
boiled  with  the  finely-grated  inner  bark  of  the  larch- 
tree.  Hunting  is  much  followed  : hares  and  grouse 
abound,  and  the  country  is  rich  in  fur  animals  ; elks, 
reindeer,  black  bears,  wolves,  musk  deer,  red  foxes, 
ermines,  wolverines,  and  squirrels  of  the  most  valu- 
able kinds,  are  all  numerous;  but  black  foxes  are 
rare,  and  sables  are  not  found  here.  The  musk  deer 
(moschus  moschiferus),  called  here  kabarga^  must  be 
abundant,  as  a pound  of  musk  is  commonly  sold  for 
no  more  than  from  ten  to  fifteen  roubles. 

The  character  of  the  Jakuti  of  Werchojansk  has 
been  injured  by  constant  intercourse  with  their 
countrymen  of  Jakuzk,  and  litigiousness,  quarrels, 
dishonesty,  and  a passionate  love  of  card-playing 
are  equally  general  among  both.  Distrust  of  their 
neighbours  induces  them  to  keep  their  cattle  at 
night  in  the  jurte  which  they  inhabit,  the  pestiferous 
atmosphere  of  which  defies  description.  The  Jakuti 
who  live  near  the  Kolyma  are  far  more  cleanly  in 
their  habits ; they  are  better  dressed,  and  their 
dwellings  are  more  comfortable  and  neat;  this  is 
particularly  the  case  in  the  settlements  at  some 
distance  from  the  route  along  which  the  traders  who 


EPIDEMIC  DISEASE.  293 

carry  brandy  pass  on  their  way  from  Jakuzk  to  Ko- 
lymsk. 

During  my  stay  at  Werchojansk,  a kind  of  epi- 
demic catarrhal  fever  prevailed  throughout  the  dis- 
trict ; the  symptoms  were  violent  oppression  of  the 
chest,  noise  in  the  ears,  headache,  &c.  It  made  its 
appearance  when,  after  an  unusually  thick  fog  which 
lasted  a week,  intense  cold  set  in  suddenly,  and  in- 
creased from  day  to  day.  From  the  23d  to  the  26th 
of  December  the  temperature  was  —49°,  — 58°, 
— 62°,  and  — 640.  A Cossack,  whom  I had  previ- 
ously sent  forward  with  my  papers,  died  on  the  way 
of  the  malady.  Every  one  was  more  or  less  ill : I 
suffered  most  from  a painful  constriction  of  the 
chest,  which  did  not  leave  me  until  after  my  arri- 
val at  Jakuzk,  where  I had  medical  aid.  It  is  a gen- 
eral opinion  here  that  this  and  other  dangerous  epi- 
demics which  prevail  among  the  natives  are  not 
nearly  so  formidable  to  those  who  have  but  recent- 
ly arrived  in  the  country  ; but,  when  strangers  have 
been  exposed  to  the  climate  for  some  time,  they 
lose  this  advantage. 

We  stayed  over  Christmas  day,  and  left  Wercho- 
jansk on  the  27th  of  December.  The  cold  still  con- 
tinued, and  the  thermometer  constantly  indicated 
— 58°.  In  such  a temperature  a journey  in  sledges 
would  have  been  very  disagreeable,  but  on  horse- 
back the  actual  suffering  is  such  as  cannot  well  be 
imagined  by  those  who  have  not  experienced  it. 
Clothed  from  head  to  foot  in  stiff,  cumbrous  furs, 
weighing  from  thirty  to  forty  pounds,  one  cannot 
move ; and  under  the  thick  fur  hood,  which  is  fas- 
tened to  the  bearskin  collar,  and  covers  the  whole 
face,  you  can  only  draw  in,  as  it  were  by  stealth,  a 
little  of  the  external  air,  which  is  so  keen  that  it 
causes  a very  peculiar  and  painful  feeling  in  the 
throat  and  lungs.  To  travel  the  distances  from  one 
halting-place  to  another  takes  about  ten  hours,  du- 
jring  which  time  you  must  continue  constantly  on 
В в 2 


294  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 


horseback,  as  the  heavy  dress  makes  it  impossible 
to  wade  through  the  snow.  The  poor  horses  suffer 
at  least  as  much  as  their  riders ; for,  besides  the  gen- 
eral effect  of  the  cold,  they  are  tormented  by  ice 
forming  in  their  nostrils  and  stopping  their  breath- 
ing; whenever  they  intimate  that  this  is  the  case, 
by  a distressful  snort  and  a convulsive  shaking  of 
the  head,  the  drivers  relieve  them  by  taking  out  the 
pieces  of  ice,  which  would  otherwise  suffocate  them. 
When  the  frozen  ground  is  not  covered  with  snow, 
their  hoofs  often  burst  from  the  intensity  of  the 
cold.  The  caravan  is  constantly  surrounded  by  a 
thick  cloud  of  vapour;  nor  is  it  only  living  bodies 
which  produce  this  effect,  but  the  very  snow  smokes. 
These  evaporations  are  instantly  changed  into  myr- 
iads of  needles  of  ice,  which  fill  the  air,  and  cause 
a continual  slight  noise,  not  unlike  the  sound  of 
torn  satin  or  thick  silk.  Even  the  reindeer  seek  the 
forest  to  protect  themselves  from  the  severity  of  the 
cold ; or,  if  they  are  in  the  tundras,  where  there  is 
no  shelter  to  be  found,  the  whole  herd  crowd  togeth- 
er as  closely  as  possible  to  gain  what  little  warmth 
they  can  from  each  other,  and  they  may  be  seen 
standing  in  this  way  quite  motionless.  Only  the 
dark  bird  of  winter,  the  raven,  still  cleaves  the  icy 
air  with  slow  and  heavy  wing,  leaving  behind  him  a 
long  line  of  thin  vapour,  marking  the  track  of  his 
solitary  flight.  The  frosty  influence  extends  even 
to  inanimate  nature ; the  trunks  of  the  largest  trees 
are  rent  asunder  with  a loud  explosive  sound,  which 
in  these  deserts  falls  on  the  ear  like  a signal-shot  at 
sea ; large  masses  of  rock  are  riven  from  their  an- 
cient sites ; the  ground  in  the  tundras  and  in  the 
rocky  valleys  cracks,  and  forms  wide  yawning  As- 
sures, through  which  the  waters  beneath  the  frozen 
surface  spring  up,  throwing  off  a cloud  of  vapour, 
and  being  instantly  converted  into  ice.  Nor  are  the 
effects  of  this  degree  of  cold  conflned  to  the  earth  ; 
the  beauty  of  the  deep  blue  polar  sky,  so  often  and 


PASSAGE  OVER  THE  MOUNTAINS.  295 

SO  justly  praised,  disappears  in  the  dense  and  hazy 
atmosphere,  and,  though  the  stars  still  glisten  in  the 
firmament,  they  no  longer  shine  with  their  wonted 
brilliancy. 

We  had  still  before  us  the  difficult  passage  of  the 
Werchojansk  Mountains,  the  foot  of  which  we 
reached  on  the  4th  of  January,  1824.  A violent 
cutting  wind,  blowing  through  the  ravines,  obliged 
us  to  seek  shelter  in  a powarna.  At  sunset  the 
whole  country  became  covered  with  a thick  frozen 
mist,  which  the  wind  drove  towards  us  through  the 
narrow  mountain  passes ; and  this  was  followed  by 
a storm  so  violent  that  it  must  have  overthrown  our 
frail  shelter  if  its  lowness  had  not  saved  it.  The 
gale  lasted  till  the  following  morning,  when  it  sub- 
sided, the  atmosphere  cleared  up,  and  the  tempera- 
ture rose  to — 11°,  which,  by  comparison,  seemed 
mild.  We  hastened  to  avail  ourselves  of  this  fa- 
vourable change  to  commence  our  passage  across 
the  mountains.  On  the  7th  of  January  we  reached 
the  opposite  side  of  them,  and  entered  a fine  fir 
wood,  the  evergreen  beauty  of  which  was  the  more 
striking,  from  the  recent  storm  having  swept  the 
snow  from  the  branches.  On  the  10th  of  January 
we  reached  Jakuzk,  where  I found  my  valued  friend 
Lieutenant  Anjou,  who  had  returned  in  safety  from 
his  arduous  journeys  along  the  Jana  and  across  the 
Polar  Sea,  and  passed  many  happy  hours  with  him 
in  recounting  our  respective  adventures. 

Since  we  were  at  Jakuzk  four  years  before,  many 
changes  had  taken  place.  The  old  ostrog  had  been 
pulled  down,  and  the  materials  had  been  employed 
in  constructing  a kind  of  clubhouse  and  assembly- 
rooms,  where  I saw  a well- lighted  ballroom,  a buf- 
fet with  refreshments,  a billiard-room,  a cardroom, 
&c. : public  dinners  and  dances  were  given  here, 
and  the  ballroom  was  occasionally  even  converted 
into  a theatre. 

With  our  arrival  at  Jakuzk  the  expedition  termi 


296  Wrangell’s  polar  expedition. 

Dated,  and  our  companions  dispersed  in  various  direc- 
tions to  regain  their  homes.  . M.  Anjou  and  myself, 
however,  were  still  detained  for  another  month  to 
close  our  accounts : this  was  at  length  completed, 
and  we  left  Jakuzk  together  on  the  8th  of  February 
for  Irkuzk,  where  we  arrived  on  the  25th,  and  found 
Dr.  Kyber  wailing  for  us.  We  here  requested  per- 
mission from  the  governor- general,  M.  Lawinski, 
to  visit  the  warm  springs  of  Turinsk,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Baikal,  which  so  far  relieved  us  from 
the  severe  rheumatic  affections  caused  by  our  jour- 
neys over  the  Polar  Sea  as  to  make  full  amends  for 
the  delay  incurred  in  our  return  to  St.  Petersburgh, 
which  we  did  not  reach  until  the  15th  of  August, 
1824,  MM.  Matiuschkin  and  Kosmin  having  arrived 
three  months  before  us. 


APPENDIX. 


Ice  of  the  Polar  Sea. — The  Polynja,  or  Open  Water. — Currents. 

— Gain  of  the  Land  on  the  Sea. — The  Aurora  Borealis. 

The  fur-hunters,  who  visit  New-Siberia  and  Ko- 
telnoi  Island  every  year,  and  pass  the  summer  there, 
have  observed  that  the  space  between  those  islands 
and  the  continent  is  never  completely  frozen  олтг 
before  the  last  days  of  October,  although  fixed  ice 
forms  along  the  coasts  at  a much  earlier  period.  In 
spring,  on  the  other  hand,  the  coasts  are  quite  free  by 
the  end  of  June,  whereas,  at  a greater  distance  from 
land,  the  icy  covering  continues  firm  a full  month, 
and  would  probably  remain  so  still  longer,  were  it 
not  weakened  by  the  multitude  of  cracks  which  are 
formed  in  the  spring,  and  some  even  in  winter. 
Throughout  the  summer  the  sea  is  covered  with 
fields  of  ice  of  various  sizes,  drifted  to  and  fro  by 
the  winds  and  currents,  and,  when  tossed  by  storms, 
they  present  a truly  magnificent  spectacle. 

The  ice  which  the  larger  rivers  annually  bring 
down  is  never  entirely  melted  the  same  year,  either 
by  the  action  of  the  sun  or  by  that  of  the  sea ; the 
quantity  of  heat  absorbed  in  the  process  of  melting 
keeping  down  the  temperature.  This  yearly  ac- 
cession from  the  rivers  might  be  expected  gradually 
to  augment  the  quantity  of  ice  in  the  Polar  Sea ; and 
such  would  seem  to  be  the  case,  from  what  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  coast  near  Cape  North  affirm,  namely, 
that  formerly  the  sea  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
cape  used  to  be  free  from  ice  in  summer,  where  it 
is  rarely  so  now.  The  surface  of  the  Polar  Sea  in 


298 


APPENDIX. 


winter  resembles,  on  a smaller  scale,  that  of  the  step- 
pes or  tundras  of  the  continent,  the  hummocks  ta- 
king the  place  of  the  hills  and  mountains  on  the 
land,  and  the  open  spaces,  ox  polynji^  and  the  fissures 
representing  the  lakes  and  rivers. 

In  the  summer  and  autumn  the  ice  breaks  up  into 
separate  fields,  and  lanes  of  open  water  between 
them  are  met  with  near  the  land  as  well  as  near  the 
open  sea:  the  winds  at  this  period,  in  driving  the 
fields  against  each  other,  form  what  are  called  au- 
tumn hummocks,  which  are  usually  about  six  feet 
high,  and  consist  of  sharp,  pointed  pieces.  Winter 
hummocks  are  formed  in  the  same  manner  where 
lanes  of  water  exist,  which  at  that  season  is  only  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  open  sea,  and  usually  parallel 
with  the  external  margin  of  the  ice ; these  hum- 
mocks are  therefore  generally  in  ridges,  preserving 
the  same  direction.  There  are  none  of  this  descrip- 
tion between  the  islands  of  New-Siberia  and  the 
continent,  nor  have  the  ridges  in  that  quarter  any 
uniform  or  determinate  course.  Winter  hummocks 
are  frequently  100  feet  in  height,  sometimes  with 
one  perpendicular  and  one  sloping  side,  as  described 
in  page  144,  and  at  others  with  declivities  on  both 
sides  : they  are  formed  of  a great  number  of  pieces 
of  all  sizes  heaped  together,  and  among  which  are 
occasionally  fragments  of  very  old  ice.  The  colour 
of  the  ice  is  either  a bluish  green  or  a clear  white ; 
the  former  is  the  congealed  sea- water,  the  latter  the 
snow  which  has  fallen  on  its  surface,  pressed  by  its 
own  weight,  and  cemented  by  occasional  partial 
thawing  and  freezing.  The  ice  formed  from  sea- 
w^ater  is  either  fresh,  in  which  case  it  is  more  blue 
and  transparent,  or  bitter,  when  it  is  much  less 
transparent,  of  a greenish  hue,  and  without  air-bub- 
bles. Some  of  the  autumn  ice  is  of  a dirty  gray 
colour  and  opaque,  and  this  is  formed  in  shoal  and 
muddy  water.  The  thickness  of  the  ice  produced  in 
a single  winter  is  about  nine  and  a half  feet ; an  ex^ 


APPENDIX. 


299 


posure  to  a second  winter  will  add  about  five  feet 
more,  and  doubtless  a third  winter  will  make  a still 
farther  addition.  But  masses  are  formed  of  150  feet 
and  upward  in  depth.  These  consist  of  fragments 
heaped  upon  each  other  by  the  force  of  the  wind  and 
waves,  and  cemented  together  by  the  frost : the  pro- 
cess of  their  formation  is  frequently  shown  by  inter- 
mediate layers  of  white  and  opaque  ice,  composed 
of  the  snow  which  was  originally  on  the  surface  of 
the  now  imbedded  fragments. 

Wherever  the  ice  is  formed  from  sea-water,  and 
its  surface  is  clear  of  snow,  the  salt  of  the  sea  may 
be  found  deposited  in  crystals  which  are  called  vas- 
sal; and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  polynji  the 
layer  of  salt  is  frequently  of  considerable  thickness. 
It  is  a great  impediment  to  draught,  acting  upon  the 
runners  of  the  sledges  like  so  much  coarse  sand  ; 
though  bitter  in  flavour,  and  not  devoid  of  medicinal 
properties,  the  fur-hunters  use  it  instead  of  other 
salt,  on  their  journeys  to  and  from  the  islands  of 
New-Siberia. 

The  great  Polynja^  or  the  part  of  the  Polar  Ocean 
which  is  always  an  open  sea,  is  met  with  about 
twenty-five  wersts  north  of  the  islands  of  Kotelnoi 
and  New-Siberia,  and  from  thence,  in  a more  or 
less  direct  line,  to  about  the  same  distance  off  the 
coast  between  Cape  Schelagskoj  and  Cape  North. 
Tatarinow,  who  accompanied  the  surveyor  Psche- 
nitzyn  to  New-Siberia  in  April,  1811,  found  an  open 
sea  about  twenty-five  wersts  north  of  that  island,  as 
did  Hedenström  in  1810,  about  seventy  wersts  east 
of  it.  Lieutenant  Anjou,  in  1823,  traced  the  bound- 
ary of  the  open  sea  some  miles  to  the  north  of  these 
islands,  as  is  shown  by  his  track  in  the  map  annexed 
to  this  work.  Our  several  narrations  have  related 
the  various  instances  in  which  we  encountered  ei- 
ther the  open  sea  itself,  or  the  very  thin  ice  indica- 
tive of  its  immediate  vicinity,  at  different  points  of 
the  general  boundary-line  above  described.  The 
Tschuktschi  who  live  near  Cape  North,  when 


300 


APPENDIX. 


speaking  of  the  Polynja  in  that  neighbourhood,  re- 
marked that  the  shore-ice  usually  extends  some- 
what farther  seaward  about  that  cape  than  about 
Cape  Jakan.  Our  frequent  experience,  also,  that  the 
north  and  northwest  winds,  and  often  the  northeast 
winds,  were  damp  to  a degree  sufficient  to  wet 
through  our  clothes,  corroborates  the  existence  of 
an  open  sea  at  no  great  distance  in  those  directions. 

During  the  summer,  the  current  between  Swätoi 
Noss  and  Koliutschin  Island  is  from  east  to  west, 
and  in  autumn  from  west  to  east.  This  is  shown 
by  the  accounts  of  Lachow  in  1773,  Schalaurow  in 
1762,  and  Billings  in  1787.  The  Tschuktschi  also 
informed  us,  that  in  summer  the  ice  drifts  rapidly 
along  the  coast  towards  the  west,  and  in  autumn 
towards  the  east.  The  prevalence  of  N.W.  winds 
is  doubtless  the  occasion  of  the  S.E.  current,  which 
we  frequently  observed  in  the  spring. 

It  has  been  noticed  in  the  narrative,  and  may  be 
seen  on  the  map,  that  in  the  part  of  the  Polar  Sea 
over  which  we  travelled,  the  water  deepens  almost 
imperceptibly  in  going  towards  the  north,  but  much 
more  rapidly  in  going  towards  the  east : the  bottom 
was  everywhere  soft,  except  in  a single  instance  in 
72°  3'  N.  and  166°  12'  E.,  where  we  found  it  rocky. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  northeast  of  Siberia  gen- 
erally believe  that  the  land  is  gaining  on  the  sea  : 
this  belief  is  chiefly  founded  on  the  quantity  of 
long-weathered  driftwood  which  is  met  with  on  the 
tundras  and  in  the  valleys,  at  a distance  of  fifty 
worsts  from  the  present  sea-line,  and  considerably 
above  its  level.  Under  no  circumstances  of  weath- 
er is  either  sea-water  or  ice  now  ever  known  to 
come  so  far  inland.  In  Schalaurow’s  map,  Diomed 
Island  is  marked  as  being  separated  from  the  main- 
land to  the  east  of  Swätoi  Noss  by  a sea-channel, 
whereas  no  such  channel  of  separation  now  exists. 
It  may  be  useful  towards  future  researches  of  this 
nature  to  state,  that  on  Wiliginsk  sandbank,  neai 
the  T^nranow  Rock,  there  is  a single  colum 


APPENDIX. 


301 


of  rock,  the  summit  of  which,  in  May,  1822,  was  thir- 
ty English  feet  in  vertical  height  above  the  frozen 
surface  of  the  sea. 

The  general  characteristics  of  the  aurora  borealis 
are  so  well  known  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  describe 
them  here ; I shall  therefore  confine  myself  to  the 
following  particulars,  which  appear  to  deserve  a 
special  notice  : 

1.  When  the  streamers  rise  high  and  approach 
the  full  moon,  a luminous  circle  of  from  20°  to  30° 
is  frequently  formed  around  it;  the  circle  continuing 
for  a time,  and  then  disappearing. 

2.  When  the  streamers  extend  to  the  zenith,  or 
nearly  so,  they  sometimes  resolve  themselves  into 
small,  faintly  luminous,  and  cloudlike  patches  of  a 
milk-white  colour,  and  which  not  unfrequently  con- 
tinue to  be  visible  on  the  following  day,  in  the  shape 
of  white  wavelike  clouds. 

3.  We  often  saw  on  the  northern  horizon,  below 
the  auroral  light,  dark  blue  clouds,  which  bear  a 
great  resemblance  in  colour  and  form  to  the  va- 
pours which  usually  rise  from  a sudden  break  in  the 
ice  of  the  sea. 

4.  Even  during  the  most  brilliant  auroras  we 
could  never  perceive  any  considerable  noise,  though 
in  such  cases  we  did  hear  a slight  hissing  sound,  as 
when  the  wind  blows  on  a flame. 

5.  The  auroras  seen  from  Nisne  Kolymsk  usually 
commence  in  the  northeastern  quarter  of  the  heav- 
ens, and  the  middle  of  the  space  which  they  occu- 
py in  the  northern  horizon  is  generally  10°  or  20° 
east  of  the  true  north.  The  magnetic  variation  at 
this  place  is  about  10°  E. 

6.  Auroras  are  more  frequent  and  more  brilliant 
on  the  seacoast  than  at  a distance  from  it : the  lati- 
tude of  the  place  does  not  otherwise  influence  them. 
Thus,  for  example,  it  would  seem,  from  the  accounts 
of  the  Tschuktschi,  that  in  Koliiitschin  Island  (in 
67°  26'  latitude),  auroras  are  much  more  frequent 


302 


APPENDIX. 


and  more  brilliant  than  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  in  lati- 
tude 68®  32'.  On  the  coast  we  often  saw  the  stream- 
ers shoot  up  to  the  zenith,  whereas  this  was  rare- 
ly the  case  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  nor  was  the  light 
nearly  as  brilliant. 

7.  The  inhabitants  of  the  coast  affi-rm,  that  after  a 
brilliant  aurora  they  always  have  a strong  gale  from 
the  quarter  in  which  it  appeared : we  did  not  observe 
this  to  be  the  case  at  Nishne  Kolymsk.  The  differ- 
ence, however,  may  proceed  from  local  circum- 
stances, which  often  either  prevent  the  sea- winds 
from  reaching  so  far  inland,  or  alter  their  direction; 
for  example,  it  often  happens  that  there  is  a strong 
northerly  wind  at  Pochodsk,  seventy  wersts  north 
of  Kolymsk,  while  at  the  latter  place  it  is  southerly. 

8.  The  finest  auroras  always  appear  at  the  setting 
in  of  strong  gales  in  November  and  January ; when 
the  cold  is  very  intense  they  are  more  rare. 

9.  A remarkable  phenomenon  which  I often  wit- 
nessed deserves  to  be  noticed,  i.  e.,  when  shoot- 
ing stars  fell  near  the  lower  portion  of  an  auroral 
arch,  fresh  kindled  streamers  instantly  appeared,  and 
shot  up  from  the  spot  where  the  star  fell. 

From  some  of  the  above  remarks,  it  may  be  in- 
ferred that  the  freezing  of  the  sea  is  connected  with 
the  appearance  of  auroras.  Perhaps  a great  quanti- 
ty of  electricity  may  be  produced  by  the  suddenly- 
rising  vapours,  or  by  the  friction  of  large  masses  of 
ice  against  each  other. 

The  aurora  does  not  always  occupy  the  higher 
regions  of  the  atmosphere,  but,  on  the  contrary,  it 
is  usually  nearer  the  surface  of  the  earth  ; and  this 
is  shown  by  the  visible  influence  of  the  lower  current 
of  the  atmosphere  on  its  beams.  We  have  fre- 
quently seen  the  effect  of  the  wind  on  the  streamers 
as  distinctly  as  on  the  clouds,  and  it  is  almost  al- 
ways the  wind  which  is  blowing  at  the  surface  of 
the  earth. 


THE  END. 


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